It's been super busy over the last few weeks, and over the last few days Jo and Michelle have  joined us for an introduction to leading on sport climbs. Where better to do this than Costa Blanca. Perfect rock, lots of bolts, quiet crags, and lots of sunshine.

I met Jo and Michelle in the Lakes and dropped into the conversation that we also offer courses in Costa Blanca during the cooler months. This appealed, as it does to so many Brits and Northern Europeans. The promise of sunshine, blue skies, even a warmish sea, and 1000's of great climbs to try as well as great walking, running, cycling, via ferrata and more. What's not to like.

The plan was to spend most of our time at the crags so that rapid development could take place whilst climbing and leading a variety of routes around the region. Mixed in with this would be some trail running. Helps to break up the climbing and give other muscles a workout whilst resting fingers.

We spent our first day at Ambolo crag near Javea. This has very easy access and is in the most wonderful of settings, rising sharply out of the azure sea. Grades are from 4 so plenty to get us started and a feel for the rock. Today was all about seconding routes and getting a taste of the area and what's on offer. Later in the day we had a trail run over Cap de Sant Antoni to Javea finishing in a lovely little cafe with a terrace over the sea :-)

For the next day we headed inland to a more mountainous area and climbed at Cerezos crag near Tarbena. There was a progression to leading today, with both displaying good control whilst on the sharp end. Lots of practice was had threading the anchors, indeed we also spent over an hour on this before heading out today, time well spent. Whilst there was less climbing today, the mental game of leading meant both Jo and Michelle were pretty exhausted, so no running for us this evening.

Day 3 we stayed more local again, this time to the ever popular Alcalali crag in the Jalon valley. With quick and easy access, great views and a wide variety of climbs, it's easy to see why so many flock to this one. Both led a couple of the shorter routes here and really enjoyed the big holds they offer. A nice ledge system at the top makes for comfortable rethreading. We then moved on to a much longer climb and at a slightly higher grade. Both also led this in good sport climbing style. During the ascents we were able to go through quite a variety of skills for the safe ascent of any sport climbing pitch. The heat of the day meant we called time early (Alcalali can get very hot), so after a rest and dip in the pool back at base, we headed out for another trail run. This time straight from the house and up to the Tres Molinos (3 windmills) above Jesus Pobre.  

Day 4 and we aimed for yet another local crag (yes there really are lots of local crags), Font d'Axia this time. This crag has morning shade so perfect for us after our roasting yesterday! 4 more routes led and probably the hardest lead of the trip, nice one Michelle. When starting out lead climbing, every route can feel exhausting, so getting 4 done in little more than a morning is pretty good going and no surprise Jo & Michelle are feeling tired by now. So back to base for some sunbathing by the pool whilst we recap on the trip and look to the future.

A bonus morning back at Ambolo. A late evening flight means more time to go climbing, and at the request of Jo and Michelle, we are back at Ambolo this morning. Just enough time for a couple of routes, one being a repeat and one a new route. Some good consolidation today, with both climbing well, leading well, and rethreading at the anchors with confidence.

Are you looking for a winter sun sport climbing trip and want to learn some skills or be shown some amazing crags and places. Or maybe it's some trail running you're keen to try, or canyoning, via ferrata, a ridge scramble maybe? If you would like any help or guidance please do get in touch and we'll put a plan together based on your preferences.

Thanks to Jo and Michelle for a grand few days in the sun and to all reading this.

Mark
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During the last few days we've made two visits to the coastal crags of Ambolo. I say crags in plural, as there are now more sectors. With funding from the local authorities, many more routes have been bolted, these range from 4+ into the 7's so something for everyone.
Another brilliant addition to the crags are multi-pitch climbs. I often thought it would make a good venue for this, clearly others shared those thoughts and have added a few longer routes, these are in the lower grades too, so can be enjoyed by relative newcomers to the sport.

So on the opposite side of the headland to sector Voodoo etc, there is a small path leading over the wall, this continues steeply down to the newly developed sectors. Take great care accessing these areas as the path is very exposed! The walk here offer climbs from 4+ upwards on some wonderfully featured limestone. Definitely worth a visit.

Back to sector Voodoo side of the headland, we continued all the way down to the waters edge and geared up here and stashed our bags out of sight. We then traversed (rightwards looking out to sea) over rocky ground with a couple of fixed ropes. About 125m of this fun scrambling leads to a small ledge below 'Catharsis Somital' 4+/5. There is a bolted belay station to the right of this and a name plate at the base of the route. The first pitch is 4+ and gives the best of the climbing on a long pitch of around 33m. A bolted belay station can be found at the top. From here we continued on to the upper pitch, which was slightly more difficult, but alas shorter at only 15m. With a 100m of rope it would be possible to abseil back down the line in one, as our rope is shorter we abseiled in 2 stages.

With a mix of hot sunshine and cooling breeze, waves crashing below us and jet skiers in the bay, this was a memorable climb for all the right reasons. Although this looks like the best of the multi-pitch offerings at the crag, there are more and they will be worth exploring. Watch this space for more info coming soon....

Thanks to Ann and Tricia for joining me on these adventures.

Mark

It's been just over a week since arriving back out in Spain and the 'winter' season has already started, with loads going on.

Now I say winter, but recent temperatures have been very summer like, and often over 30C during the middle of the day. We have been starting activities early as a result. The weather is cooling off a little now though, so normal service can be resumed.

Already a couple of adventures on the massive crag of Ponoch, arguably the most impressive face of rock in the region. First of was a solo via ferrata / scramble / run for me. And a few days later back again with Michael, who had previously done the via ferrata but not the scramble. And like many others who venture onto this extensive face, found the descent difficult to locate, so he was keen to know more. And being a seasoned mountaineer, Michael obviously wanted to complete the scramble up to the plateau too, well why not.
We cruised up all of it, taking a little breather before then beginning the descent, this involves 2 abseils, a scree run, some scrambling, and 2 more abseils. So plenty to keep the mind and body occupied.
Even though we had set out early, the heat of the day was taking its toll on us and we were both feeling somewhat sun kissed on the final descent.
Looking back up at that massive crag and following our route up to the plateau confirmed it was very much worth all the sweat (and there was lots)!
Such a brilliant mountaineering day out.

If considering attempting this route, as an absolute minimum a 60m rope is required for the abseils. Standard VF kit. For the scramble it's possible to use direct belays as and when required, so no nuts/cams needed, but bear in mind the rock is very sharp and can quickly take a toll on your lovely sport climbing rope!!

We've also had the pleasure of welcoming Andi, Harriet, and Kerry to the Costa Blanca. Andi has visited a few times already and was keen to show friends how much fun can be had here.

We kicked off with a visit to Cala Testos. Yes it's a beach, but no ordinary beach. There is a technical descent to access this beautiful little cove. After some abseil practice, a swim, some climbing to get back out. We proceeded to a nearby beach bar for welcome refreshments before exploring some of the nearby sea caves.
Next up for the girls was a day by the pool here at Atalaya. A relaxing day before we head out to Sierra de Toix for some climbing.
Starting early we managed to keep in the cool of the shade for a few hours and enjoy the wonderful Limestone routes at Toix far Oeste. By early afternoon it was time for a cool off. So the girls aimed for the nearby beaches of Mascarat.

To round the activities off, we had a walk to the Cova del Dalt and up to Es Crestall. The Cova is hugely impressive and so easy to reach. Back in the UK this would be mobbed with visitors, here it's usually empty, as it was today. Summit views were spectacular too, with Mallarda de Llop and Aitana both clearly visible and some puffy clouds around to add atmosphere.
It was more pool action back at the villa and a night out in nearby Denia for the girls, followed by more night-time pool fun and games. Well why not, it's what holidays are for right.

A big thanks to Andi, Kerry, Harriet, and Michael - it's been a pleasure and a privilege.

Mark