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What to take on a sport climbing holiday

2/12/2019

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#sport-climbing-holiday-costa-blanca
Climbers at Sierra de Toix, Calpe
Around this time of year many climbers based in northern Europe will be turning their thoughts to a ‘hot rock’ holiday to warmer, sunnier climes. Wherever that may be, there is a certain amount of basic equipment that will be required for a safe and enjoyable holiday.
 
Here we cover those items and a few extras. Of course it is up to the individual what they choose to put in the suitcase, but please put priority to rope length and condition, and helmets.
 
Harness: An integral part of any climbing trip. This should be in good condition have at least 4 gear loops and ideally be fitted with a PAS (personal anchor system). Using either the ‘Kong Slide’ or ‘ Petzl Connect’ are our recommended methods. A daisy chain or knotted sling will also work, but not as well.
 
Belay device: With so many belay devices now on the market, it can be a bewildering choice. The cheapest option is to use your regular belay device. But this may not be the best option, this will depend on what sort of climbing you normally do. For a trad climber, a bug type device may be used at home, and whilst they do work for sport climbing, there are better devices out there.
Gri Gri (Petzl) – this is currently the number one choice for sport climbers, particularly those pushing grades and climbing hard. It offers assisted braking and makes it far easier to hold a climber whilst they rest on the rope. The Gri Gri Plus also has an ‘anti-panic’ feature so a more novice Gri Gri user is very unlikely to lower a climber too fast! A slight disadvantage of the Gri Gri is the belay method is different and must be practiced in a safe environment. It can take a while to become proficient at using this device.
 
Revo (Wild Country) – this has the advantage of working in exactly the same way as a regular ‘tuber / bug’ type belay device, so there is no new learning to take on board. It also offers assisted braking and can help hold a resting climber, although not as well as the Gri Gri. The assisted braking only kicks in should the belayer actually drop the climber, so it feels more like a back up device and as such should offer great security than a Gri Gri, although in practice this still comes down to the belayer and their methods. 
 
Click Up (Climbing Technology) – this sits somewhere in between the above 2 devices and also offers assisted braking. It is easier to use than a Gri Gri but still takes some adjustment from the belayer. It isn’t a device we have used extensively so are unable to comment quite so much.
 
Any of the belay devices mentioned above are ideal for a sport climbing trip. They will give many years of service but are quite expensive, considerably more than a trad type device. We think having at least one of these is well worth the investment.
In case any abseiling may be encountered during your trip, carrying a standard belay device is a good idea as these are far better for abseiling.
 
Rope: Depending on where you’re going and what routes you have in mind will depend on what length rope you will be needing. Generally 60m is the minimum for sport climbing, this allows 30m routes to be climbed. Climbs are getting longer though, so it is worth considering a longer rope. We recently invested in an 80m rope to complement the range of 60’s and half ropes we already have. The 80m has already been very useful. Check through the guidebook and buy whatever rope fits the routes best and gives a few metres spare.
A single rated rope is usually most appropriate for sport climbing and somewhere around 9.5 – 10mm diameter works well, although buying a skinnier rope will mean less weight. Lightweight (skinny) ropes tend not to last as long as a thicker rope, and they will almost always be more expensive in the first place.  
 
 
Quickdraws:
Regular trad ‘draws will do the job here, but not as well as a dedicated sport ‘draw and they will get trashed pretty quickly. So it is worth considering a set of quickdraws specifically for sport climbing.
A clean nose, bent gate, and fat ‘dog bone’ are what you’re looking for. Having a clean nose on the carabiner allows for quicker and easier clipping / unclipping from bolts. This may not sound important, but when feeling the pressure and needing a quick clip it can feel like the most important thing in the world! Having a bent gate on the rope end of the quickdraw has 2 advantages. First it gives fast identification of which end is going to the bolt, secondly it makes for easier clipping of the rope.
We have been using Wild Country ‘Proton’ draws for a couple of years now and really like them, they are standing up to regular use well. DMM also make some excellent sport draws.
Having a selection of lengths is useful. At least half a dozen short and around 12 longer works for many routes.
 
Prussic: just because this is sport climbing doesn’t mean prussics aren’t required. They are needed for abseiling and for any rescue techniques, even the simple ones. A prussic cord may also be used to help back up an anchor. Carry at least 2 and ideally 3 on your harness and know how to use them. If unsure of how to effectively use a prussic it may be time to book on a course and learn some new skills.
 
Knife: Ok so this one may seem a little over the top and most of the time it is. But they are perfect for cutting bread and cheese to make the crag sandwiches! On a more serious note, a sharp knife may be needed if the rope needs to be cut. Whilst this sounds drastic, there are various situations when it may be the best solution. Firstly to back up or equalise an anchor a short length can be cut from the climbing rope. Secondly, the rope may become jammed when pulling it down from a route, sometimes climbing back up is an option, but sometimes not. Cutting off what you can means not loosing the whole rope.
 
Screwgate carabiners: If only doing single pitch routes having a couple of screwgate carabiners is usually plenty. One for the anchor and to tie the rope back into your harness. If on multi-pitch climbs having half a dozen will be preferable as anchors should be constructed at least partly (and better completely) with screwgates.
 
Slings: These are very useful if doing any multi-pitch routes as they allow for fast and efficient equalising of belay anchors. Also useful for any self-rescue or aid climbing. If abseiling a sling makes for a perfect way of extending the belay device away from the abseiler to allow easier control.
 
Rope bag: Sport climbing crags are often dusty places and this will find its way into your rope pretty quickly if you’re not using a rope bag. Grit in the rope will shorten its lifespan and put more wear and tear on the in-situ gear at the crag. A rope bag is cheap and they work a treat, so treat yourself to one before heading off on that sunny holiday. Also makes carrying the rope around the crag from route to route much easier. 
 
Rock shoes: It is likely to be much warmer than your typical UK crag, so take into account your feet will expand slightly. If your shoes are already uncomfortably snug they will bring you pain during a hot day of climbing. It is worth considering a slightly larger pair. If the larger pair turn out to be a little too big, a pair of socks will fix that.
 
Chalk: Climbing at a warm and sunny crag can get pretty hot. It won’t be long before your hands are sweaty and start to loose friction on the rock. To help absorb the sweat a small amount of chalk can be applied to finger tips. Please use chalk sparingly as the quarrying of it is not environmentally friendly, neither is it good for your skin.
 
Belay glasses: These are a fairly modern addition to the sport climbers kit list. With the use of a prism they allow the belayer to simply look straight ahead rather than straining their neck to see what the climber is doing. 
 
Clip stick: Nowadays clip sticks have got much smaller and fit into luggage with no problem. Some bolted crags have high first bolts, if falling whilst clipping things can turn nasty. A quick solution is to clip from the ground so the climber sets off with a ‘top rope’ for the initial moves. Clip sticks can also be used higher up a route, for example if the climber can’t manage to do the moves to finish the climb, so the whole route can actually be ‘top roped’ if needs be. I have seen some exceptionally talented climbers regularly using a clip stick for the initial 1 or 2 bolts. It isn’t something to feel bad about, it isn’t cheating, remember you’re on holiday and a sport climbing holiday at that. It is about having fun and not getting injured. We upgraded to the Beta stick this year and have so far been very pleased with it. Very small so easy to carry and even fits in my backpack. 
 
Panic stick: These come in the form of a rigid quickdraw and can be useful if you can’t quite reach the next bolt and want to get it clipped before a difficult move. They cost a little more than a regular quickdraw and we think worth it. We have a couple of ‘panic sticks’, both are from Kong and both work very well. The shorter stick works better and if I was to choose again I would only have a short version as these are easier to use.
 
Helmet: There are no excuses for not wearing a helmet whilst climbing and belaying, this item is a must as without it the risks are significantly increased. Long gone are the days of unfashionable and heavy helmets, now there is a huge amount of choice and most are lightweight, comfortable, and colourful. Many climbers see sport climbing as a safer form of climbing when compared to trad and for this reason they leave helmets at home or even worse, in their backpacks! Put it on your head, no questions. Whilst working and playing at a variety of popular sport climbing venues across Spain I have witnessed a number of significant rock fall incidents. I have also helped a climber with a head injury whilst he was at the top of a sport route in El Chorro, having been struck on the head with a very small rock, he wasn’t wearing a helmet. Thankfully he recovered fine, but it was the end of his climbing day.
Only last week I was climbing with a group of friends on the crags of Costa Blanca and we had a very lucky escape from rock fall. Blocks that were likely dislodged by Goats or other wild animals came trundling down from above the crag and directly towards us, we all narrowly escaped serious injury. We were all wearing a helmet.
It is equally, or possible even more important for the belayer to wear a helmet. They are standing at the base of the crag and holding the climbers rope, so getting knocked out would be a very serious situation. Minimise the risks, wear a helmet, please.
 
First aid kit: This can be small and simple, but well worth having at least a few plasters, anti-septic wipes, a couple of bandages, and some form of pain relieve.
 
Skin repair balm: If you’re pushing your grade your skin will soon start to moan and fingers will take on a distressed look. Looking after your skin is a good plan and not exactly hard to do. We switched to FeGoo skin repair balm a couple of years ago (while it was still in the testing stage) and have enjoyed good results when used in warmer climes such as Southern Spain. It is made in the UK and wherever possible organic ingredients are used. We recommend applying to fingers each evening just before going to bed, thus allowing it to work some magic overnight, leaving you ready to fight another day at the crag.
 
Guidebook: Well without this you’re a bit stuffed really. Find the most up to date rather than going for second hand and possibly out of date as routes change and crags are further developed, often quite rapidly. A good guidebook will be packed with useful information about how to reach the crags, what the routes are like, where offers sun/shade, where is good if it rains. For sport climbing in Europe we have been using Rockfax guides for years and have found them to be invaluable.
 
Sunscreen: We live in Cumbria so don’t see lots of sunshine. When travelling to Europe to climb we always pack plenty of sunscreen and wear it. Getting burnt may spoil your holiday, it may also lead to longer term health problems. If like us you’ll be travelling from a cold and wet land, don’t forget the sunscreen.
 
Phrase book: Ok so maybe we’re going over the top now! But certainly learning a few words of the local lingo will go a long way to getting on with the locals and it’s always appreciated. Can be quite fun too.
 
A back up plan: If on your planned week of sunshine and hot rock the weather gods get all moody and send some rain, it’s worth having a plan b. A little research about the local area can be really helpful at times like this. There could be some amazing walking or mountain biking trails, or loads of culture. An hour or two of Googling in advance could help save the day should the rain follow the plane!!
​

Thanks for reading. We offer climbing and other mountain based courses in the Lake District and Costa Blanca.

Mark 
#costa-blanca-climbing
Tricia enjoying a route in the climbing Mecca of Sella
#sea-cliff-climbing-spain
Kate on a multi-pitch sea cliff route
#sport-climbing-equipment
Gear for a typical day (rope is already packed!)
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Moving on in sport climbing - Costa Blanca

18/11/2019

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#lead-climbing-course-costa-blanca
Cruising a route at Toix Oeste
Over the past couple of days we’ve been introducing Marco & Marjolein to the delights of multi-pitch climbing. Both already accomplished sport climbers whom had already been on an outdoor climbing course with our good friend Vicky Foxwell.
Now ready to move on from single pitch sport to longer routes, including those with abseil approaches and descents. There are a lot of new skills needed to move on to bigger climbs in a safe way, but with a good skill base, two days is enough to get things started.
 
We spent both days on the crags of Sierra de Toix on the outskirts of Calpe. With a wide selection of low – medium grade climbs up to around 100m and many involving abseil descents, this makes for a perfect crag for anyone looking to progress to multi-pitch climbing.
 
As mostly Marco would be the lead climber, we focused on setting up belays based on block-leading. This means using a sling to equalise the bolt anchors and usually belaying directly from the ‘master point’. As well as repeating this a number of times during the climbing day, we managed to fit in 3 abseil descents, one being a multi-stage abseil.
 
Day two revisited some topics from yesterday, then built on them. We began building belays using only the rope, so a more complex procedure, but well worth knowing and very useful. More abseil descents again, with Marco and Marjolein taking control to set these up. As the day progressed some crag rescue scenarios were introduced so the couple have a base of knowledge in case things don’t always go to plan. Dealing with a jammed belay device, ascending a rope, simple hauls, releasing a ‘Reverso’ type belay device and more all being covered.
 
We didn’t quite get the standard warm Costa Blanca weather, but the sun did join us and when the wind abated it really was more like t-shirt weather. The mix of sun, cloud, and mountains really is glorious from this crag too.
 
Big thanks to Marco and Marjolein for joining us, it’s been a pleasure and lots of fun. And thanks to Vicky for pointing these lovely people in our direction.
 
Happy climbing
Mark  




#rock-climbing-course-spain
Equalising belay anchors using the rope whilst on a 2 pitch climb
#climbing-holiday-costa-blanca
Climbers enjoying 'Cliber' 5+ on another sunny day in Spain
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Rock climbing course - Costa Blanca

4/11/2019

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#rock-climbing-javea
Enjoying fine slab climbing and a stunning backdrop at Ambolo crag
It's been super busy over the last few weeks, and over the last few days Jo and Michelle have  joined us for an introduction to leading on sport climbs. Where better to do this than Costa Blanca. Perfect rock, lots of bolts, quiet crags, and lots of sunshine.

I met Jo and Michelle in the Lakes and dropped into the conversation that we also offer courses in Costa Blanca during the cooler months. This appealed, as it does to so many Brits and Northern Europeans. The promise of sunshine, blue skies, even a warmish sea, and 1000's of great climbs to try as well as great walking, running, cycling, via ferrata and more. What's not to like.

The plan was to spend most of our time at the crags so that rapid development could take place whilst climbing and leading a variety of routes around the region. Mixed in with this would be some trail running. Helps to break up the climbing and give other muscles a workout whilst resting fingers.

We spent our first day at Ambolo crag near Javea. This has very easy access and is in the most wonderful of settings, rising sharply out of the azure sea. Grades are from 4 so plenty to get us started and a feel for the rock. Today was all about seconding routes and getting a taste of the area and what's on offer. Later in the day we had a trail run over Cap de Sant Antoni to Javea finishing in a lovely little cafe with a terrace over the sea :-)

For the next day we headed inland to a more mountainous area and climbed at Cerezos crag near Tarbena. There was a progression to leading today, with both displaying good control whilst on the sharp end. Lots of practice was had threading the anchors, indeed we also spent over an hour on this before heading out today, time well spent. Whilst there was less climbing today, the mental game of leading meant both Jo and Michelle were pretty exhausted, so no running for us this evening.

Day 3 we stayed more local again, this time to the ever popular Alcalali crag in the Jalon valley. With quick and easy access, great views and a wide variety of climbs, it's easy to see why so many flock to this one. Both led a couple of the shorter routes here and really enjoyed the big holds they offer. A nice ledge system at the top makes for comfortable rethreading. We then moved on to a much longer climb and at a slightly higher grade. Both also led this in good sport climbing style. During the ascents we were able to go through quite a variety of skills for the safe ascent of any sport climbing pitch. The heat of the day meant we called time early (Alcalali can get very hot), so after a rest and dip in the pool back at base, we headed out for another trail run. This time straight from the house and up to the Tres Molinos (3 windmills) above Jesus Pobre.  

Day 4 and we aimed for yet another local crag (yes there really are lots of local crags), Font d'Axia this time. This crag has morning shade so perfect for us after our roasting yesterday! 4 more routes led and probably the hardest lead of the trip, nice one Michelle. When starting out lead climbing, every route can feel exhausting, so getting 4 done in little more than a morning is pretty good going and no surprise Jo & Michelle are feeling tired by now. So back to base for some sunbathing by the pool whilst we recap on the trip and look to the future.

A bonus morning back at Ambolo. A late evening flight means more time to go climbing, and at the request of Jo and Michelle, we are back at Ambolo this morning. Just enough time for a couple of routes, one being a repeat and one a new route. Some good consolidation today, with both climbing well, leading well, and rethreading at the anchors with confidence.

Are you looking for a winter sun sport climbing trip and want to learn some skills or be shown some amazing crags and places. Or maybe it's some trail running you're keen to try, or canyoning, via ferrata, a ridge scramble maybe? If you would like any help or guidance please do get in touch and we'll put a plan together based on your preferences.

Thanks to Jo and Michelle for a grand few days in the sun and to all reading this.

Mark

​
#rock-climbing-costa-blanca
Another fantastic day at the crag
#trail-running-costa-blanca
Single track descent into Javea from Cap de Sant Antoni
#climbing-course-for-beginners
Leading a well bolted route at Ambolo
#guided-walking-costa-blanca
More wonderful views on our way back from a days climbing
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Mountaineering on Ponoch

22/10/2019

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#ponoch-via-ferrata-costa-blanca
Moonrise over Ponoch
Many still consider the Costa Blanca to be a mix of seaside resorts and for climbers at least, the home to many excellent sport climbing crags. Both are true, the region is blessed with many good resorts full of wonderful beaches and yes the sport climbing here does seem almost endless. And we are regularly discovering more bolted routes and whole crags under development, so there's lots more to come, meaning lots more to come back for.

But there is more....so much more!

Look away from the roadside bolted crags, turn your heads to the mountains and see a whole new world of possibility. Two of the biggest crags in the region - Ponoch and Puig Campana - actually have their very own guidebooks, and justifiably so, such is the extent of routes.
Whilst we can't claim to know every route on these massive faces, we do know. some of the classic lines on both and importantly, we know how to safely get off these mountains, which isn't as easy as many may think!

Last week we had the pleasure of showing 3 visiting climbers: Janine; Paul; and Emma around the mighty Ponoch. Whilst all were competent sport and trad climbers, they considered a guide being a worthwhile investment for a big day on the Ponoch. And as we start with a Via Ferrata, they also don't need to worry about having their own lanyards, as we provide these. The ferrata section allows for rapid progress up the mountain and we gained the top of this within the hour. A rest followed whilst we discussed the ridge scramble ahead of us. Paul decided to opt out and instead enjoy a good book whilst sunbathing, and why not!
Janine and Emma were super keen for the scramble, so we sorted the rope and set off, initially along a narrow ridge which soon becomes a buttress. The views and situations are truly phenomenal on this route and we took our time in order to fully appreciate this.
Once at the top, a series of abseils followed by a scree run brought us back to Paul and his book. We all then continued down to the next series of abseils to reach the base of the mountain.

As with so many things, once the procedure is know and route logged, this is all straightforward, but for a first time visitor to this mountain, trying to find all these abseils would be quite daunting. Same goes for the big routes on Puig Campana. It's not so much the reaching the top that's difficult, it's returning to base safely. That's where we can help!

A grand day out in the sun, thanks to Janine, Paul, and Emma.

Mark


#via-ferrata-ponoch-costa-blanca
Enjoying the via ferrata section
#mountaineering-costa-blanca-spain
Emma nearing the top of the scramble
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More fantastic climbing - Costa Blanca

21/10/2019

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#costa-blanca-rock-climbing
Enjoying the superb atmosphere at Ambolo crag
During the last few days we've made two visits to the coastal crags of Ambolo. I say crags in plural, as there are now more sectors. With funding from the local authorities, many more routes have been bolted, these range from 4+ into the 7's so something for everyone.
Another brilliant addition to the crags are multi-pitch climbs. I often thought it would make a good venue for this, clearly others shared those thoughts and have added a few longer routes, these are in the lower grades too, so can be enjoyed by relative newcomers to the sport.

So on the opposite side of the headland to sector Voodoo etc, there is a small path leading over the wall, this continues steeply down to the newly developed sectors. Take great care accessing these areas as the path is very exposed! The walk here offer climbs from 4+ upwards on some wonderfully featured limestone. Definitely worth a visit.

Back to sector Voodoo side of the headland, we continued all the way down to the waters edge and geared up here and stashed our bags out of sight. We then traversed (rightwards looking out to sea) over rocky ground with a couple of fixed ropes. About 125m of this fun scrambling leads to a small ledge below 'Catharsis Somital' 4+/5. There is a bolted belay station to the right of this and a name plate at the base of the route. The first pitch is 4+ and gives the best of the climbing on a long pitch of around 33m. A bolted belay station can be found at the top. From here we continued on to the upper pitch, which was slightly more difficult, but alas shorter at only 15m. With a 100m of rope it would be possible to abseil back down the line in one, as our rope is shorter we abseiled in 2 stages.

With a mix of hot sunshine and cooling breeze, waves crashing below us and jet skiers in the bay, this was a memorable climb for all the right reasons. Although this looks like the best of the multi-pitch offerings at the crag, there are more and they will be worth exploring. Watch this space for more info coming soon....

Thanks to Ann and Tricia for joining me on these adventures.

Mark
#rock-climbing-near-javea-spain
On the exposed approached to some of the climbs at Ambolo
#costa-blanca-climbing
Another sunny day at the crag!
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Back in the Costa Blanca - 2019 season

12/10/2019

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#mountaineering-and-climbing-costa-blanca
Michael enjoy some wild exposure high up on Ponoch
It's been just over a week since arriving back out in Spain and the 'winter' season has already started, with loads going on.

Now I say winter, but recent temperatures have been very summer like, and often over 30C during the middle of the day. We have been starting activities early as a result. The weather is cooling off a little now though, so normal service can be resumed.

Already a couple of adventures on the massive crag of Ponoch, arguably the most impressive face of rock in the region. First of was a solo via ferrata / scramble / run for me. And a few days later back again with Michael, who had previously done the via ferrata but not the scramble. And like many others who venture onto this extensive face, found the descent difficult to locate, so he was keen to know more. And being a seasoned mountaineer, Michael obviously wanted to complete the scramble up to the plateau too, well why not.
We cruised up all of it, taking a little breather before then beginning the descent, this involves 2 abseils, a scree run, some scrambling, and 2 more abseils. So plenty to keep the mind and body occupied.
Even though we had set out early, the heat of the day was taking its toll on us and we were both feeling somewhat sun kissed on the final descent.
Looking back up at that massive crag and following our route up to the plateau confirmed it was very much worth all the sweat (and there was lots)!
Such a brilliant mountaineering day out.

If considering attempting this route, as an absolute minimum a 60m rope is required for the abseils. Standard VF kit. For the scramble it's possible to use direct belays as and when required, so no nuts/cams needed, but bear in mind the rock is very sharp and can quickly take a toll on your lovely sport climbing rope!!

We've also had the pleasure of welcoming Andi, Harriet, and Kerry to the Costa Blanca. Andi has visited a few times already and was keen to show friends how much fun can be had here.

We kicked off with a visit to Cala Testos. Yes it's a beach, but no ordinary beach. There is a technical descent to access this beautiful little cove. After some abseil practice, a swim, some climbing to get back out. We proceeded to a nearby beach bar for welcome refreshments before exploring some of the nearby sea caves.
Next up for the girls was a day by the pool here at Atalaya. A relaxing day before we head out to Sierra de Toix for some climbing.
Starting early we managed to keep in the cool of the shade for a few hours and enjoy the wonderful Limestone routes at Toix far Oeste. By early afternoon it was time for a cool off. So the girls aimed for the nearby beaches of Mascarat.

To round the activities off, we had a walk to the Cova del Dalt and up to Es Crestall. The Cova is hugely impressive and so easy to reach. Back in the UK this would be mobbed with visitors, here it's usually empty, as it was today. Summit views were spectacular too, with Mallarda de Llop and Aitana both clearly visible and some puffy clouds around to add atmosphere.
It was more pool action back at the villa and a night out in nearby Denia for the girls, followed by more night-time pool fun and games. Well why not, it's what holidays are for right.

A big thanks to Andi, Kerry, Harriet, and Michael - it's been a pleasure and a privilege.

Mark
#guided-walks-costa-blanca
Summit of Es Crestall, with Mallada de Llop and Aitana in the background
#walking-holiday-spain
Cala Moraig
#guided-walking-costa-blanca
After a hot day in the mountains, this is the perfect welcome home
#walking-holiday-costa-blanca
Montgo dominates over Jesus Pobre
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Fell running over Coniston Old Man

20/9/2019

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#guided-trail-running-lake-district
Looking down to Low Water and Levers Water from the summit of Coniston Old Man
Recently we were contacted to help out with some trail running and race preparation. Naturally we were glad to be of help and hatched a plan. The route in question is the 'Lakeland Trails' Coniston 15km Trail Race. Not a route we already have experience of, but we do know the terrain well.
After telephone discussions and when meeting Lynne, it was established that some tougher and more technical terrain could be of help, so a route was quickly put together and plenty of flexibility built in for any last minute changes required.

We set off from Coniston and aimed for Levers Water, much of this section is on wide tracks and makes for easy, if sometimes steep running. The first more technical section came as we ascended by the big waterfalls of Levers Water Beck. It was already becoming clear that Lynne would take the rocky sections in her stride. From Levers Water we ran through Boulder Valley, another tricky section, to pass by The Pudding Stone. From here we had a birds eve view of the Trail race route.
​From here we continued up to Low Water before taking a break. The water in the tarn was wonderfully refreshing and the views sublime. From here we had a good view of the route up to the summit of Coniston Old Man. Lynne was keen to go for it and include the top, it only took us about 18 minutes to be standing up there and enjoying even better and more far reaching views. It was plenty busy with walkers and a couple of other runners.

We began our descent with nice and gentle terrain and did some off-path too to get on the soft grass. This took us easily down to Goat's House. Back on the technical and rocky slopes to gain the shores of Goat's Water, all the while admiring the impressive Dow Crag to our right. Next up is Walna Scar and a pleasant and mostly easy downhill back into Coniston.

With wide variety of terrain types covered and strategies considered for each type, Lynne was feeling pretty relaxed and prepared for her forthcoming race. We wish Lynne and all the competitors the best of luck.

It's been fantastic to be out guiding on fell runs, something Kate has done many times, but still a new area for me. I'm hoping for more of it.

Thanks for reading

Mark

#guided-running-lake-district
Making our way to Levers Water
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Autumnal climbing days - Lake District

19/9/2019

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#rock-climbing-ambleside
Gimmer crag - high above Langdale
This week has seen a dramatic turn in the weather, and so much for the better! Cool autumnal nights, clear mornings, and warm, sunny days. The mountains and valleys are changing colour, the autumn coat is going on, meaning much orange on the fells. September really is a fantastic time to be in the Lake District.

So what have we been up to? Lots of getting out in the mountains and by that I mean lots of rock climbing.

Back on Monday this was with Joe who was looking to get some mileage in on the rock and simply have a good day of climbing. Wallowbarrow certainly delivered that, with 3 routes and 8 pitches up to VS 4c. For most of the time we had the crag to ourselves, we just noticed another pair of climbers enjoying the classic Severe of 'Thomas'. With wonderful views,  a serene ambience, easy access, and great rock, there's always good reason to pay this place a visit.

On Tuesday I was meeting my good friend Tony, who is always rather partial to an adventure of some kind! This time it would be involving the magnificent Gimmer crag, perched high above the Langdale valley. Our sights were set on a tougher than normal route (for me anyway) going by the name of 'Whit's End Direct' at E1+
Tony took the lead for this long single pitcher. Taking care to place plenty of protection and make use of all the small ledges for a little rest and shake out. He cruised the route in style, keeping cool and going forth with confidence and composure. I'd become pretty cold whilst belaying in the chilly wind, but still, the rock was warm so hands didn't suffer too much and allowed me to thoroughly enjoy the climbing and the sublime situation.
Time had run away with us, so with a couple of abseils we made it back to the base of the crag and bid our farewells for this time.   

Today was to be another climbing day, Joe was back for more. This time we headed for Castle Rock near the Thirlmere reservoir. A footpath diversion led us to an interesting approach walk via the North crag. Here we picked a way through the jumble of massive boulders that had fallen last year, these were quite a sight!

As promised, the South crag was warm and sunny, just how we like it. We climbed 5 routes from VD - HS and included some very long pitches, so got plenty of mileage in. Due to the descent route being so short and friendly we had rattled through all these and enjoyed a few rest stops all by mid-afternoon. Joe was pleasantly tired, as was I, so we called it a day. We had been the only people at the crag, the only others nearby were a couple of forestry workers cutting back the Larch woodland on the hillside below.

3 top class climbing days in the same week is pretty good going, it's been a lot of fun. Thanks to Joe and Tony :-)

Mark

#guided-rock-climbing-lake-district
Enjoying the super grippy rock at Castle Rock
#rock-climbing-lake-district
Cruising to the overlap on 'Whit's End Direct' at Gimmer
#how-to-set-up-a-trad-climbing-anchor
Anchor set up at the top of Castle Rock. 3 pieces of protection all equalised using a Dyneema sling so that 'guide mode' can be deployed with the belay device
#outdoor-activities-lake-district
End of a great day of climbing at Wallowbarrow crag in the Duddon valley
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Lake District activities for families

3/9/2019

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#activity-days-near-ambleside
Enjoying the brilliant scrambling on Raven crag
This summer has been our busiest to date, with pretty much non-stop activities happening daily. So a BIG thanks to all who joined in the fun, we really appreciate you choosing us for your Lake District adventures and activities.

September too is looking nicely busy, but with a more generous helping of downtime, so time to do some of our own exploring in preparation for yet more fun times next summer and beyond. This exploring has already began and I'll be writing about one such place in the next blog post.
It is also time for us to start preliminary planning for our winter activities in the Costa Blanca. It's only a month until I head out to sunnier climes, so time to be thinking about any shiny new equipment that may be needed for the coming season.

This post shows some a few recent days out amongst the beautiful Lakeland Fells with many lovely people. Firstly, an afternoon spent Scrambling on Raven crag in Yewdale. We had a warm, sunny day, dry rock that is super grippy, and our reward for reaching the top was loads of Wild Bilberry and stunning views over to Coniston Water. We were joined by 2 families, including 4 youngsters. This proved to be an ideal afternoon activity with just the right amount of challenge to ensure the youngsters were all stretched.
You will find some organisations impose a lower age limit on various activities and we can understand why this is so. However, we only have advisory age limits as each individual is different, with some adventurous 5 year olds being very able and more willing than much older kids. As an example, we are taking a 4 year old rock climbing next month! Along with his parents of course!
We have taken quite a few youngsters through the upper section of the Church Beck canyon in Coniston and to the remote Esk Gorge. All have absolutely loved the experience. But these are not first timers, they have been on similar activities previously, so we and they know capabilities.

The photo below showing us dry scrambling alongside Stickle Ghyll was the start of a mountaineering style day in Langdale. This family had contacted us looking for a scrambling day based on Langdale and at some point Jack's Rake was mentioned. We put together a flexible plan of scrambles that would take us to the summit of either Pavey Ark or Harrison Stickle. As with many of our days out, flexibility is key to success. We began scrambling within a couple of minutes of the National Trust car park at Stickle Barn and followed the Stickle Ghyll water course all the way to Tarn Crag. And yes we stayed dry all the way :-)
We then meandered our way through the rocky spurs and buttresses of Tarn crag, deploying the rope for some short, steep sections. Whilst walking around Stickle tarn it became clear that some weren't keen to go up Jack's Rake, whilst others had unfinished business there. So the team split into the 'picnic by the tarn' and 'Jack's Rake' teams. Naturally I was in the Jack's Rake team with Tim, who was quite apprehensive about the scramble ahead.

We took our time and discussed good scrambling technique and movement, but also stopping to enjoy the views and increased exposure. I could sense the doubt still present in Tim, but this was subsiding as we gained more and more height. His feeling of elation and achievement when I announced we had reached the top was quite a WOW moment. It's times like this that makes our job so worthwhile. The satisfaction and happiness on peoples faces is priceless. A hop, skip, and jump (no, not literally) and we were back at the tarn and fast catching up with Carman and Edith. Another hugely successful day out in the mountains, oh yes.

Gorge scrambling has been a big hit this summer, and rightly so as it's tons of fun and still tons of fun in the rain. The final photo in this post shows perfectly how to jump into that pool in Stickle Ghyll. Some of the gorges here can be equally suitable for 5 - 50 year olds and complete novices or seasoned mountaineers. They really are that varied.

This goes back to being flexible. And as we know hundreds of routes throughout the Lake District, you can rest assured that we can be flexible not only in our approach but also venue choice and how we help you through the activity.

Thanks again all, we hope to see you again soon.

Mark & Kate  


#family-activities-lake-district
Walking through the wild heathers whilst picking Bilberry
#mountaineering-days-lake-district
The aim this time is to stay dry :-)
#wet-weather-activities-ambleside
A somewhat wetter ascent of Stickle Ghyll
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Overcoming fears and enjoying an adventure

25/8/2019

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#cathedral-quarry-lake-district
Me setting up the ropes for an abseil down the big wall
A little while back we were contacted by Claire who was keen to complete an abseil, but was quite nervous about it (which is fairly normal). Upon meeting Claire it was clear the nervousness was still very much there, but she was controlling and rationalising it well. For most, completing an abseil for the first time is a big event, it is stepping off a cliff after all! So we do our best to explain the whole process and will often set up a rope on level ground to enable people to  practice in advance of the real thing. That's what we did today and this clearly reassured Claire that all would be well.

We were at Cathedral quarry in Little Langdale. The smaller abseil is a little under 20 metres and vertical. Claire cruised down this and was soon smiling and enjoying the experience. I sensed she would benefit from a trip down the big wall, but didn't want to rush this, so left the ropes in place for another descent of this smaller descent. Second time went even better, with more comfort and control.

The big abseil was offered and accepted, then I pointed it out and there was a pause, but only a pause, we were on for this :-)
A few minutes later and the ropes were all set for a 45 metres vertical and free-hanging descent down this dramatic wall of slate. With no hesitation or looking down, Claire was on her way, despite by now having an audience and the added pressure. Another smooth and well controlled, enjoyable descent and a brilliant effort from Claire. Having arrived feeling nervous and apprehensive, not even knowing herself whether or not she could do even the smaller abseil, Claire not only smashed that, but also the really big abseil that see's far fewer descents.

Setting challenges, overcoming fears, and having adventures are all seriously good things to be doing. No matter what the challenge, what your fear, keep pushing.   
For us it's the best part of our work to be able to facilitate this for people, thanks to you all.

And big congratulations and thanks to Claire for joining us today.

Mark


#abseiling-lake-district
Abseiling the big wall at Cathedral quarry
#guided-walks-cathedral-quarry-lake-district
Afternoon light coming in through the window
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