Climbing out of Jordan Gap - Rock Climbing on Pillar Rock
Rock Climbing on Pillar Rock - North Climb (S), Pillar Rock, Cumbria.
First ascent: 27/07/1891 WP Haskett Smith, G Hastings, WC Slingsby
Our day up on the Napes of Great Gable was always going to be a tough one to better. Turns out, not so tough actually. These things just take a little thought and preparation and a fabulous mountain day can be had. Oh and a Haskett Smith route.
The alarm call goes off circa 5.50am, I’m already awake and have been for some time. Despite tiredness in my body, I am 100% raring to go and ready for a big adventure, so the early start is no hardship.
It is a fairly long drive to Ennerdale, thanks to Sofia for taking the strain with that. We chat about the route we plan on climbing and and a good catch up. At around 8.30am we arrive at Bowness Knott and immediately sort the bikes and kit. There’s a 7km cycle approach along forestry tracks and we fly along this having a whale of a time being big-kids whilst enjoying the superb mountain scenery Ennerdale has to offer. Pillar Rock dominates and our sights are firmly set on it.
I’d posed the idea of a bike, hike, climb, abseil, scramble, swim day and this had been met with enthusiasm. As we cycled alongside the river Liza the most delightful swim spot showed itself and this was duly noted for later in the day. Right now I think we were both on the fence regarding swimming as the day had not warmed yet.
Stashing the bikes - Rock Climbing on Pillar Rock
We parked the bikes in the undergrowth, two others were already there - Tom of Greenwood Mountaineering as it turns out. We continue on foot up the steep hillside and into Pillar Cove. Oh my this is a special place and we are visiting during a special time, the bicentenary year of the first ascent of a rock climb in England which was ‘Old West Route’ on this very crag. This sort of stuff makes the hairs on my neck stand, I absolutely love it.
Looking up to Pillar - Rock Climbing on Pillar Rock
Despite being steep, we reach the base of the crag and our route quickly and with consummate ease. Below the first pitch is the most perfect bivy ledge, a large patch of flat grass with a grandstand view of Ennerdale. Noted for future forays.
I am mildly apprehensive about the climbing today. Although the overall grade should mean it is straightforward, the route will be riddled with old school style climbing and this means lots of chimneys, thrutching, and wriggling. So I won’t be making this look elegant, likely Sofia will manage to though. Never mind though, I am with an ace climbing partner who is dependable and always positive. We got this.
I set off onto the rock. Oh, it’s actually pretty tricky to get off the ground. It takes some working out before I’ve sussed out the moves and am on my way. Almost instantly I feel more in tune with the rock. It feels good. It feels exciting.
Sofia cruises up the pitch and soon I’m off up pitch 2 which is longer and better. At the top of the pitch there’s some confusion about where the route goes next, but a quick check of the guidebook sorts this. Up into a deep chimney! Much palaver ensues as I fight my way up into and through the chasm that is ‘twisting chimney’. Phew.
The climbing then eases a little, or rather, it becomes more normal. Again, Sofia cruises this pitch even though she is carrying the backpack.
The Stomach Traverse - Rock Climbing on Pillar Rock
We are now perched below ‘the stomach traverse’. Hmm, this has the potential for some excitement. I quite literally squirm up this whilst making some choice noises, all of which feel fully justified. A belay is sorted out but I make sure to be positioned so I can have a full view of Sofia climbing this wild pitch. The initial puzzled facial expressions soon turn to huge smiles, she is having fun - possibly type 2 fun!
We are both happy to have that pitch behind us and the following pitch looks more straightforward. First a steep corner is climbed up to a spacious ledge, I belay at the back of this. From here we venture quite literally into the mountain via massive split blocks. More chimneying happens, obligatory grunting accompanies this, it’s tradition don’t you know.
Once out of its confines a fine and airy traverse leads to a hanging belay by ‘The Nose’.
Caves, chimneys, and traverses - Rock Climbing on Pillar Rock
Sofia takes it nice and steady on the traverse pitch, it is only just adequately protected so there is an air of seriousness. She was not overly keen on the hanging belay so stopped slightly short on a good and comfortable ledge. We took a moment to savour everything. Climbing on Pillar is truly incredible.
Hanging belay before the nose - Rock Climbing on Pillar Rock
Now back to business. A short and incredibly airy traverse onto the nose led to a steep and jolly memorable pull up onto the final belay platform. The position, the moves, the rock, all perfect.  Another bomb proof belay is set up and Sofia sets off up the pitch. Less than 10m from the ledge she is on, but wow what a 10m it is. Did I swear already? Okay, I won’t repeat it. Sofia, did you swear too?
The smiles at that belay ledge say more than words ever will. We are at the top of the route and just a scramble up Stony Gully will see us on Low Man. This is dispatched with ease and soon we bask in sunshine and glory.
Pillar High Man - Rock Climbing on Pillar Rock
We gained High Man via the final pitches of Old West Route - the original route of the crag, the first route in England for that matter.
We are now bathed in delicious sunshine. We rest a while, absorb and appreciate our surroundings. Cast minds back to the historic ascent by John Atkinson back in 1826. The significance of it all hits me like a train, just wow. But I’m also already thinking of the abseil and onward scramble so divert myself with these tasks.
Soon we are in Jordan Gap and climbing back out onto Pisgah. The rock part of this adventure is now over. The smiles are still well and truly with us. We saunter back to the base of the route, stopping briefly at a spring where we drink fresh mountain water.
Steep climbing too - Rock Climbing on Pillar Rock
Back at where I’d left my bag, we rest a while, it’s already been quite a day. We then continue with the descent back to the forestry track and our bikes.
Cycling out is a breeze, I struggle to keep up with Sofia who is absolutely flying on her MTB. We briefly discuss swimming in the Liza but this is superfluous, it is swim time. Oh that water was so good. There was a glacial feel to it and I don’t mean the temperature, I mean the scene.
A true adventure is one with an uncertain outcome. Today kept us guessing all the way and most definitely ticked the adventure box. I’ll have more of this please.
Bike - Hike - North Climb - Low Man - Old West Route - High Man - Abseil - Jordan Gap - Pisgah - Hike - Bike - Swim - Bike - Phew!
Much thanks go to Sofia for being a willing and able adventure buddy. And to all who read this.
We offer guided days on Pillar Rock via the Slab and Notch route for those looking to gain High Man. We have been guiding this route for many years. If you are considering a visit to High Man please do get in touch, we’d be very happy to help.
Mark  Â