#pillar-rock-guided-ascent

Kate on the final pitch - Pillar Rock Guided Ascent

Pillar Rock guided ascent

This year has been a good one for trips to Pillar Rock. I feel privileged to have enjoyed numerous visits to this amazing place and with a mix of friends and clients.

Last week we had our good friend Vicky come to stay and she too got to sample the delights of Pillar. I had a guiding day on there booked in for Friday, so Vicky and Kate joined me as I guided Peter up the Slab & Notch route to the summit of High Man. This was to be quite a day for Peter as it would be the final summit on his journey to complete the Nuttalls. And for Kate, who has made the journey to Pillar previously but didn’t get to do the climb. For Vicky it was all new terrain.

So a big day is in store and the weather is playing ball for us, just.

After meeting Peter at The Green in Wasdale we set off on our way to Black Sail Pass. I mention the little short cut on our way and Peter comments that it’s something he’s done and didn’t like. I convince him to give it another try and we do. The reason he didn’t like it was he missed the path so was on very rough terrain. That wouldn’t be happening today. This time I think he liked the short cut, and it saves us all some energy. Guides come with benefits huh.

The main path up to Pillar is good and straightforward, the High Level Route is also a decent path, but is consequential (don’t trip or slip) with big drops off to the Ennerdale valley. So we have a briefing about foot placement, balance, and taking our time. Poles go into the bags as the path is too narrow for these to be useful. And off we go, soon Robinson’s Cairn comes into view. We enjoy a short break here and marvel at the magnificence of Pillar Rock that now dominates our view. The rock looks damp, but the sky bright and the light breeze will be drying that rock all the time. We are all optimistic for a grand climb.

The first proper obstacle is along The Shamrock Traverse and for this we employ the rope for crossing the slippery slab. It is distinctly slippery today so the rope is welcomed. Then a short section of easy scrambling leads us on to the neck of rock next to Pisgah. This is where we gear up and will stash our bags during the climb. We have a bite to eat too and put some extra layers on as we’ll be moving more slowly during the climb and we won’t want to be rushing.

Slab & Notch climb is reached via a tricky scramble that is accessed by first down-climbing a loose gully, so we rope up for this. Then follows a short traverse before the route is reached. I brief Peter on some climbing terminology and give him some tips before I set off up the very short first pitch.

Peter soon joins me and I then send him on ahead as the next section is a down-climb, instructing him on where to aim for and what to do upon arrival. We have sight of each other the whole time too.

I then take over and lead us up to The Notch. This is the technical crux of the route. Peter breezes up it no problem. An easy pitch then leads us up to a delightfully airy perch below the big gully.

The final pitch into and up the gully can be slippery if the rock is damp and today it is a little damp. So more caution is required. I give Peter a few more pointers as to where the good holds are and when to move rightwards into the centre of the gully. Again, he cruises this pitch and soon we are both enjoying the summit of Pillar High Man. I leave Peter to enjoy some time on top whilst I watch Vicky and Kate as they climb the final pitch and soon join us on the summit.

What a privilege it is to stand atop this mighty rock and cast our eyes out over Ennerdale and beyond.

All too soon I need to set up the abseil and get us down off the summit and into Jordan Gap. It’s about 15m so a 30m rope is the very minimum required for a safe descent, today we are using a 40m triple rated rope.

To top things off we then climb up onto Pisgah. The rock is very greasy and some rope tricks prove useful to protect Peter whilst he climbs. Then an easy scramble back to the bags and some much needed food before our long walk back to Wasdale Head.

A truly brilliant day out in the mountains with wonderful people. Big thanks to Peter, Vicky, and Kate.

Are you looking for a guide to climb Pillar Rock? If so, we can help. Please do get in touch and we’ll get you booked in.

Thanks for reading

Mark

#robinsons-cairn-pillar-rock