Tel: 07971 622616
Mountain Journeys - Guided Walks
  • Home
  • Activities
    • Family Adventure Days >
      • Family Adventure Days - More
    • Rock Climbing
    • Pillar Rock - High Man
    • Rock Scrambling
    • Abseiling
    • Gorge Scrambling
    • Esk Gorge - The Big One
    • Guided Mountain Days
    • Intro to Mountaineering
    • Winter Mountaineering
    • Guided Walking
    • Trail & Mountain Running
    • Sunrise & Sunset
  • Challenges
    • Lakes District challenge
    • Welsh 3000's challenge
    • Yorkshire 3 Peaks
  • Courses
    • Navigation training
    • Mountain Leader Refresher
    • SPA Refresher
  • Spain
    • Guided walking - Costa Blanca >
      • Walks in Costa Blanca
    • Rock Climbing -Costa Blanca
    • Multi activity holiday - Costa Blanca
    • Canyoning week
    • Via Ferrata week
    • GUIDES AND INFORMATION >
      • Canyons / Barrancos
      • Ridge traverses & easy climbs
      • Via Ferrata
      • Costa Blanca Rock Climbing
  • About
    • About Us
    • Testimonials
    • Gallery
    • Prices
    • Gift Vouchers
  • FAQs
    • Family climbing venues
    • Tips & Tricks
    • Lakeland place names
    • Lake District Rock Climbs
    • Gorge Scrambles of the Lake District
  • Blog
  • Contact

Establishing new climbing route '150 Jupiters' Costa Blanca

19/11/2015

0 Comments

 
Rock-climbing-Costa-Blanca
Initial section of the arete
The Costa Blanca is well known for easily accessible sport climbing throughout the grade range, and rightly so, there's masses to do here for all levels of climber. There is so much more to the area than this though. Mountain adventures are in abundance and the sheer quantity of rock is staggering.

Last year, whilst out walking I spotted a fine looking arete that looked very climbable at an amenable grade. Not having time to try it straight away, the months rolled by until I was able to return and climb on this beautiful outcrop of Limestone. 
Some of you will already know I can be quite esoteric in my crag and route choices, and sometimes this pays dividends, sometimes not. So the most important part of any such adventure is a willing and able partner. I had explained in as much detail as possible what may be involved for this ascent, and thankfully Juliette was still happy to be a part of this.

We made rapid progress on the approach march until the final few hundred metres when dense vegetation slowed us, the adventure begins....

Arriving at the base of the initial arete around 11am we decided to have an early lunch rather than carry all the food up the climb. Stashing one bag at the base, we proceeded to climb the arete, loose in places but often on good quality Limestone and in a sublime situation.
There are two subsidiary aretes (both escapable) before the main ridge-line is reached. These initial sections provide good climbing up to Severe 4a standard and there is plentiful protection (mostly with slings).

To gain the main ridge there are a variety of lines available, but once on the arete the route finding is obvious and with limited variation making a fairly quick ascent possible.

Whilst we had been using 50m half ropes with the intention of abseiling from the summit, this was not required as a scrambling descent to the left (looking up) was reasonably straightforward. So I would recommend using a 50m single rope as the route doesn't otherwise require halves.

Below is a description of the route and where it is. Should you be so inclined to seek this out and would like more information, feel free to get in touch and i'll help out as best I can. And of course, anyone wishing to have a guided ascent, we'd be more than happy to help with that too.

Route name: 150 Jupiters – Raco de Las (Pleasure Domes), Benidorm area
Length: 230 metres
Grade: Severe 4a
First Ascent: 15th November 2015 - M Eddy & J Edwards 
 
 
A beautiful and prominent feature of the Pas de Comptador is the Raco de Las. There is climbable rock on all faces and routes will be possible at many grades from Vdiff well into the E grades.
This is a mountain crag and exposed to the vagaries of the weather (yes, even in the Costa Blanca) so go prepared with extra clothing and a headtorch. It takes no drainage and will dry very rapidly.
Bushwhacking is required to reach the base (and worth it) and all part of the adventure of this majestic crag.
 
Approach:
From small layby parking just off the Polop - Guadalest road near to Restaurante Rincon de Pepe and walk along this track, forking right after about 250m , a further 500m on reach a crossroads and turn right, following this through pine woodland to reach a large track, turn left and go uphill and soon onto a concrete track to reach Pas de Comptador, the climbing is now on your left. There are numerous small tracks (Boar / Goat / Hunters) penetrating the dense vegetation, take your pick and be armed with thick and long trousers!
Our route follows the right hand ridge line and it's subsidiary ridges all the way from the base to the summit.
Allow 1 hour for the approach.
 
Descent: From the prominent notch near the summit follow broken ground leftwards to reach the base of the crag.
 
Pitch 1: 40m – Follow the arête from its lowest point. Belay on pinnacles on the crest.
Pitch 2: 20m – Continue along the widening arête to reach a belay below steepening ground.
Pitch 3: 30m – Climb the steep wall to regain the arête. Belay in a small gap.
Pitch 4: 10m – Traverse along the left side of the ridge to reach a small col and belay.
Pitch 5: 15m – Climb the delightful corner crack (S4a) to reach a pinnacle belay above.
Pitch 6: 30m – A scrambling descent leads off the ridge and across broken ground leftwards to reach the main ridgeline.
Pitch 7: 35m – Climb a wide crack to gain the arête and follow this to a comfortable belay next to a ledge system on the right.
Pitch 8: 15m – Continue along the crest for a few metres until loose ground forces moves rightwards to an airy belay in a corner.
Pitch 9: 35m – Follow the broad crack and arête, steeply at first, to reach easier ground and a widening in the ridge. Belay well back. Scrambling remains.
 
Equipment:
Small rack of wires, selection of mid-range cams, plenty of slings for threads and pinnacles, 50m half ropes.
Note, we used half ropes expecting to need to abseil from the summit, but with care a scrambling descent is possible therefore a single 50m rope would be adequate. 

​

Mountaineering-Costa-Blanca
Raco de Las
Ridge-scrambling-Spain
Lower section of the main ridge
Guided-climbing-Spain
Climbing the 4a corner
Ridge climbing Costa Blanca
Looking down on the initial aerates
Guided-rock-climbing-Costa-Blanca
On the penultimate pitch
Mountain-scrambling-Costa-Blanca
Enjoying a scree run descent
An absolutely brilliant day out in an amazing setting. The walk-in will put many people off this place and that's a real shame as every step is so worthwhile.
Big thanks to Juliette for climbing this with me and for naming it.

​Mark

0 Comments

Your comment will be posted after it is approved.


Leave a Reply.

    RSS Feed

    Picture

    Categories

    All
    150 Jupiters
    1st Aid At The Crag
    95 Ole
    Abseiling
    Activity Week Costa Blanca
    Advanced Scrambling Skills
    Adventure Day
    Adventure Yogi
    Aixorta
    Alcalali Crag
    Alcalali Intro To Sport Climbing
    Alcoy
    Alertacall
    Almond Blossom
    Ambleside
    Ambolo
    Angle Tarn
    Angle Tarn Beck
    Angle Tarn Pike
    Arista Al Forat De La Forada
    Aristotles
    Aventador
    Barranco De La Canal
    Barranco De L'Estret
    Barranco De Les Viudes
    Barranco Del Infierno
    Barranco Del Llidoners
    Barranco Del Lliset
    Barranco Del Llosar
    Barranco Del Parent
    Barranco Del Pas De Calvo
    Barranco Del Pas Tancat
    Beda Fell
    Benicadell
    Bernia Ridge
    Bernia Walk
    Beyond Benidorm - Multi Activity Costa Blanca
    Black Crag
    Black Sail YHA
    Blake Rigg
    Bolting New Climbs
    Bolulla
    Bolulla Raco Roig
    Bolumini Cave
    Borrowdale Climbing
    Borrowdale Rock Climbing
    Bosigran Ridge
    Botterill's Slab
    Bouldering Costa Blanca
    Bovedas Crag Gandia
    Bovedon
    Bowfell
    Bowfell Buttress
    Bram Crag Quarry
    Brant Fell
    Brown Cove Crags
    Buttermere Skyline
    Cabezon De Oro
    Cala Moraig
    Camping And Caravanning Club
    Candelabra Del Sol
    Canyoning
    Carillo-Cantabella
    Carrock Fell
    Castell De Castells
    Castellets Ridge
    Castell Helen
    Cathedral Quarry
    Cavall Verd
    Caval Verd
    Caves Of Costa Blanca
    Caving
    Central Buttress Of Scafell
    Challenge Walks
    Church Beck
    Classic Rock
    Climb Costa Blanca
    Climbers Traverse
    Climbing Grades
    Climbing In Series
    Climbing With Kids
    Clogwyn Yr Oen
    Club Moss
    Coastal Walks Costa Blanca
    Col De Rates
    Cold Pike
    Coledale Horseshoe
    Coll De Rates
    Commando Ridge
    Coniston
    Coniston Old Man
    Coniston Scrambling
    Copt Howe
    Cornwall Climbing
    Corporate Day
    Corvus
    Costa Blanca
    Costa Blanca Climbing
    Costa Blanca Mountain Walks
    Costa Blanca Ridges
    Costa Blanca Scrambles
    Costa Blanca Via Ferrata
    Costa Blanca Walking
    Counter Balance Abseil
    Counter-balance Abseil
    Cova De Dalt
    Cova De La Garganta
    Crag X
    Crescent Climb
    Cresta De Al-Azraq
    Cresta Del Canelobre
    Cresta Del Castellar
    Cresta Del Migdia
    Cresta Dels Bardals
    Crest Of Benicadell
    Crib Goch
    Crinkle Crags
    Cwm Silyn
    Derwent Water
    Diedro UBSA Penon
    Dos Hermanos
    Dow
    Dow Crag
    Duddon Valley
    Eagle Crag
    Easy Gully
    Echo Valley
    El Castellets
    El Cid Via Ferrata
    El Dorado
    Electric Blue
    El Peñon D'Ifach
    El Realet Ridge
    El Realet Ridge Traverse
    Elterwater
    Ennerdale
    Ennerdale Horseshoe
    Escaping The Belay System
    Eskdale
    Esk Gorge
    Espolon Central
    Espolon De La Pared Negra
    Evening Climbing Langdale
    Fairfield
    Family Activities Costa Blanca
    Family Activity Day
    Family Adventure Day
    FeGoo
    Fell Running
    Fire In Duddon Valley
    First Ascents On Scafell
    Font D'axia
    Forada Ridge
    Fresh Air Learning
    Froggatt Edge
    Giant's Crawl
    Giants Crawl
    Gillercombe Buttress
    Gimmer Crag
    Glaciated Slab
    Goat's Crag
    Gogarth
    Gordian Not
    Gorge Scrambling
    Gowder Crag
    Granadella
    Great Gable
    Great Knott
    Gritstone
    Grooved Arete
    Guadalest Crag
    Guided Climbing
    Guided Running Costa Blanca
    Guided Walking
    Guided Walking Lake District
    Guided Walks Costa Blanca
    Half Hitches
    Hard Rock
    Harrison Stickle
    Haste Not
    Hawkshead
    Haystacks
    Helmet At The Crag!
    Helvellyn
    Helvellyn In Winter
    Hen Party
    High Man
    History Of Rock Climbing Scafell
    Hodge Close
    Holbeck Ghyll
    Idwal Slabs
    Improvised Rescue
    Italian Hitch Abseil
    Jack's Rake
    Jack's Rake Scramble
    Kilnshaw Chimney
    Kipling Groove
    Kirkus's Route
    Lake District
    Lake District Climbing
    Lake District Family Activities
    Lake District Walking
    Lands End Long Climb
    Langdale
    Langdale Horseshoe
    Langdale Pikes
    Langstrath
    Learning To Lead
    Learn To Lead Climbing
    Levers Water
    Leyva
    Lingcove Beck
    Lingmoor
    Little Chamonix
    Little How Crag
    Little Langdale
    Llanberis Pass
    Lliber
    Llobet/Bertomeu
    L'Ocaive
    Loft Crag
    Long Scar
    Lower Scout Crag
    Low Water Beck
    Magical Mystery Tour
    Malafi Ridge Scramble
    Malafi Walk
    Mallada Del Llop
    Marin
    Mascarat Gorge
    Merino Buff
    Mickledore
    Middlefell Buttress
    Moelwyns
    Monte Ponoig
    Montesa
    Morro Falqui
    Mosedale
    Moss Ghyll Grooves
    Mountaineering Costa Blanca
    Mountaineering Lake District
    Mountain Leader Refresher
    Multi Activity Week
    Multi-activity-week
    Multi Pitch Climbing
    Multi-pitch Climbing
    Murcia Climbing
    Murla Crag
    Napes Needle
    Navigation Course
    Navigation Skills
    Needle Ridge
    New Routing Costa Blanca
    North Lakes Guided Walks
    Ogwen
    Orienteering
    Orihuela
    Parallel Gullies Rib
    Parle
    Pavey Ark
    Peak District
    Penon De Ifach
    Penya Migdia Ridge Scramble
    Pike O'Blisco
    Pillar Rock
    Pinnacle Ridge
    Pirates Of The Caribbean
    Pla De La Casa
    Pleasure Domes
    Pluto
    Ponoch
    Problem Solving Whilst Canyoning / Abseiling
    Prussik
    Puig Campana
    Raco De Las
    Rap
    Raven Crag
    Raven Crag Langdale
    Raven Crag Yewdale
    Redovan
    Red Screes
    Red Tarn Winter Skills
    Red Tarn - Winter Skills
    Rhoscolyn
    Ridges Costa Blanca
    Ridge Scrambling
    Ridge Scrambling Costa Blanca
    Ridge Walks Costa Blanca
    Rock Climbing
    Rock Climbing Borrowdale
    Rock Climbing Calpe
    Rock Climbing Costa Blanca
    Rock Climbing Course
    Rock Climbing Eskdale
    Rock Climbing In Borrowdale
    Rock Climbing In Langdale
    Rock Climbing Langdale
    Rock Climbing Refresher Course
    Rock Climbing Scafell
    Rockfax
    Rock Improvers Course
    Rock Scrambling
    Rock Scrambling Costa Blanca
    Rock Scrambling In Langdale
    Rope Skills For Scrambling
    Ruthwaite Cove
    Scafell
    Scafell Pike
    Scafell Pike In Winter
    Scout Crags
    Scrambling Costa Blanca
    Sea Cliff Climbing
    Segaria
    Segaria Ridge
    Self Rescue For Climbers
    Sella
    Serrella
    Shepherds Crag
    Sierra Aitana
    Sierra Ferrer
    Skiddaw
    Skin Repair Balm
    Slab & Notch Route
    Snail Shell Crag
    Snowdonia
    Snowdonia Climbing
    Snow Hole
    Sonjannika
    SPA Refresher Course
    Sphinx Ridge
    Sport Climbing
    Sport Climbing Holiday
    Stacked Abseil
    Stag Party
    Stake Gill
    Stickel Tarn
    Stickle Ghyll
    Stickle Ghyll Hydro Scheme
    Stickle Tarn
    Stoney Cove Pike
    Stoneycroft Ghyll
    Striding Edge
    Sunrise Walks
    Symphony Crack
    Talisker
    Tarbena
    Tarbena Crag
    Tarn Crag
    Tarn Crag Scramble
    Team Building
    Teambuilding Day
    The Bell
    Tilberthwaite
    Toix
    Toix Este
    Toix Ridge
    Toix Sea Cliffs
    Tophet Wall
    Trad Climbing Costa Blanca
    Trad Climbing Course
    Trail Running
    Trail Running Costa Blanca
    Trail Running In Spain
    Tremadog
    Troutdale Pinnacle
    Tryfan
    Tyrolean Traverse
    Ullswater Lakeshore Path
    Un Assisted Hoist
    Un-assisted Hoist
    Upper Scout Crag
    Vall De Gulabdar
    Via Esther
    Via Ferrata
    Via Ferrata Les Marujes
    Via Ferrata Penya Figuerta
    Via Ferrata Redovan
    Via Ferrata Relleu
    Via Gene
    Via Pany
    Via Valencianos
    Villena Via Ferrata
    Viudes Crag
    Waist Belay
    Walking And Scrambling Costa Blanca
    Walking Costa Blanca
    Walking In Spain
    Walks From Ambleside
    Walks In Costa Blanca
    Wallowbarrow
    Wansfell Pike
    Wasdale
    Water Skiing Costa Blanca
    Welsh 3000's
    White Ghyll
    White Ghyll Edge
    Why We Climb
    Wild Flowers
    Windgather
    Winter Climbing
    Winter Day In Grisedale
    Winter Mountaineering
    Winter Skills
    Winter Skills Course
    Wodens Face
    Women Week Costa Blanca
    Xmas In Spain
    Yoga
    Yorkshire 3 Peaks Challenge
    Yorkshire Three Peaks
    Zip Wire

    Archives

    February 2019
    January 2019
    December 2018
    November 2018
    October 2018
    September 2018
    August 2018
    July 2018
    June 2018
    May 2018
    April 2018
    March 2018
    February 2018
    January 2018
    December 2017
    November 2017
    October 2017
    September 2017
    August 2017
    July 2017
    June 2017
    May 2017
    April 2017
    March 2017
    February 2017
    January 2017
    December 2016
    November 2016
    October 2016
    September 2016
    August 2016
    July 2016
    June 2016
    May 2016
    April 2016
    March 2016
    February 2016
    January 2016
    December 2015
    November 2015
    October 2015
    September 2015
    August 2015
    July 2015
    June 2015
    May 2015
    April 2015
    March 2015
    February 2015
    January 2015
    December 2014
    November 2014
    October 2014
    September 2014

Tweets by @climbermark
mountain.journeys@yahoo.co.uk  |  m: 07971 622616
Mountain Journeys, 2 Cambridge Villas, Ambleside, LA22 9DL