Tricia leading one of the fine 40m lines of the crag - Sport Climbing Costa Blanca
Sport Climbing Costa Blanca:
Las Cerezas crag (Garx), Tarbena
One of the newer additions to the excellent and varied climbing crags of the Costa Blanca region. I think it was around 5 years ago that we stumbled across this crag after descending the nearby canyon. At that time, it was clear that development was very much ongoing. Seems like that is still the case to this day.
The rock is rough and sharp limestone, with orange and grey walls to choose from. The colours alone are appealing. Add in the tranquil setting in an olive grove and the surrounding mountains and there’s lots to like about this place.
Access – Set a short distance away from the coast, this does require a bit more effort to reach than many crags. It’s worth it. From the mountain village of Tarbena take the CV-752 towards Castell de Castells. A short distance along here is a fine viewpoint that’s worth a stop. Continue beyond this for a short distance until a Goat farm is reached, it’s on the right. A few metres after this is a turning on the left with a small sign for ‘Can Sueño’, take this and drive until the tarmac becomes concrete and park in the layby.
Follow the concrete road down into the olive groves and the crag will appear on the left.
Quality of climbing – nothing short of wonderful and will suit a variety of styles as there are both slabs and walls of immaculate rock. Many of the routes here are long, up to 40m so it almost feels multi-pitch in scale. The slabs offer beautifully pocketed limestone and from what others tell me the steep walls are crimpy.
We have visited this crag with novice and high level climbers. All have enjoyed the climbing here.
When to go – October to April is optimum for the cooler weather. During winter the sun is on the crag until around 3.30pm, once out of the sun it will likely feel quite chilly so if planning to stay late be sure to pack a jacket.
Guidebooks – for a selection of 5’s and 6’s at this crag along with many other climbing and adventure ideas check out our new Cicerone guidebook here.
For dedicated sport climbing in the area the Roberto Lopez guide ‘Costa Blanca Climbs’ is well worth seeking out.
Rockfax also cover the region, although this crag isn’t featured in their current (2013) guide, it will likely be in the new edition when launched.
Development – more routes are appearing on the surrounding crags. There are many new additions along the barranco walls, and across the riverbed by the ruined building is another smaller crag with some nice routes too. Looking down the riverbed towards the huge crags, we know of no routes on these but suspect they will have seen some attention from climbers. On the plateau above these walls are lots of caves, so watch out if exploring off-path!
For more about what we can offer in Spain during the winter months, check here
Thanks for reading
Unknown climber from Benissa leading a 6c - Sport Climbing Costa Blanca
Las Cerezas crag - Sport Climbing Costa Blanca
Kate on one of the newer sectors - Sport Climbing Costa Blanca