Mountain Journeys

Rock Climbing Calpe, Erikindia – New routes on the Toix sea cliffs

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Looking down on the route on a busy day

Rock Climbing Calpe - Erikindia

A few weeks ago we learnt of a newly bolted climb on the Toix sea cliffs. So it was top of the list to do upon our arrival back in the region. Armed with a topo but no route description, we set off in search of the route. Knowing these cliffs fairly well I already had a good idea of where we would find the abseil anchors, so no time was wasted on this. The anchors have been thoughtfully placed and the abseil in is pretty perfect, as well as extremely dramatic.

When we arrived at the base of the route we couldn't see any bolts and went on a mystery tour leftwards for about 50m before realising this was almost certainly a mistake. Another party of climbers had arrived and I asked them if they could see any bolts, they couldn't either, but suggested if I could see an old wire rope then that was the correct place. I could see the rope so we thought, huh, maybe we were right.

More checking and we found the bolts, they are almost directly back from the abseil landing point, up a sandy gully.

The first pitch felt steep and tricky for a while, I worried a little as this was just the warm up pitch and I was feeling on edge. Thankfully things eased up and the climbing flowed better. The belay station is possibly the most dramatic I have ever been on. Perched on a small ledge and leaning back out over the sea, with waves crashing below.

The next pitch gave some trickier climbing, but not as difficult as expected. To start the route goes into a cave then emerges back into the sun for a few steep moves that can easily be bridged. The situation is phenomenal as is the climbing. Yes it's steep, but it is a jug-fest.

We ran pitches 2 & 3 together and the final section is much easier but no less dramatic. The finishing moves come through a whole in the top of the cliff and bolts are found on the left.

Whilst on the route a few more parties abseiled in and as we were getting ready to leave, yet more were arriving. This is already a popular route and is set to become a mid-grade classic.

Big thanks to Omar Samper and Vincente Monerris for creating this route and bolting it so well. To read more about their exploits have a look here Erikindia

Erikindia - 6a+
Abseil length = 45m
Pitch 1: 25m 5+ From the sandy gully climb the left wall, soon trending slight right then traversing left. The initial moves are the most difficult and steepest. A hanging belay is reached. Get comfy and enjoy the view.

Pitch 2: 25m 6a+ Go slightly left then enter the cave, bridge up this to emerge in the sun and continue bridging up steep, juggy terrain on the left side of a chimney (cave). This pitch provides the crux which is steep, but very well bolted. As the angle eases a belay is reached on the right.

Pitch 3: 20m 5 Continue more easily towards the big hole, this leads to the top of the cliff.

Thanks for reading and hope you have found this useful.

Mark

#abseiling-in-to-a-sea-cliff-costa-blanca

Abseiling in to the route

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Climber on pitch 1 of Erikindia

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Final pitch of Erikindia

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