Mountain Journeys

Climbing & mountaineering near Calpe – old favourites


Richie leading the wonderful corner pitch on Cilber, Sierra de Toix

We've been out with friends a lot over the past few weeks. Sometimes looking at new places, checking out potential climbing routes, other times visiting old favourites.
Here we write about the old favourites. Sierra de Toix and Bernia ridge. These are part of the same huge lump of rock that stretches from the Western summit of Bernia all the way to Toix Este and into the sea.

Richie had been staying with us for a few days and unfortunately there'd been some cool & damp conditions, so we hadn't managed to fit in a lot of climbing. Thankfully the skies were blue for his final full day here. As wind speeds were still quite high, we needed to keep our objective realistic, so discounted the idea of going to Puig Campana. Instead we climbed Cilber at Toix. I'd forgotten just how good this route is. Richie led every pitch, with me & Ann following and generally enjoying a social time on the belays, it's so nice to climb as a team of 3.

With a very relaxed attitude this route and the abseil descent filled much of the afternoon. So we called it a day. Such a fun climb.

I was back at Toix again recently. This time with Kate & Leanne. We climbed Oma Sus, this is another route i'd not climbed for ages. It's brilliant, with a magnificent top pitch. The sun was lovely and warm today and the sky azure blue. After lunch we climbed Anto, a 2 pitch route with some tricky moves on the upper pitch.
As Leanne was due to fly back to the UK the following morning we finished up early and headed home. Another grand day at Toix.

​The Bernia ridge has become a regular trip for us. Being so close by and so iconic, we are often asked to take people over it. We are also sometimes asked if we get bored of repeating the same ridges and routes. The answer is most definitely not. We love doing these routes. The Bernia is an absolute classic.

Almost always I take the lead on the Bernia, but today we had a role reversal and Kate led the way (she knows the route better than she lets on too). This was great for me as I had more time to enjoy the views, explore the ridge a little more, look for other routes, and generally enjoy myself whilst Kate did all the work!  

​As is so often the case, we didn't see anyone else on the ridge all day. Wow, if this was in the UK it would be crawling with climbers everywhere!
We descended from the final col back to the Font and the Bernia restaurant.

Thanks to Kate, Leanne, Richie, Anna, Ann, and Kim 🙂



Kate enjoying the final pitch of Oma Sus, Sierra de Toix


Kate setting up the initial abseil


Kate leading the crux of Bernia ridge



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