#derecha-del-espolon

Kim topping out - Climbing at Orihuela

Climbing at Orihuela - The hugely impressive Pared Negra

It’s been a few years since I visited the Orihuela crags. Well it is a fair way south of our regular base, so needs some forward planning and effort to make it happen. Today we did make it happen and 4 of us set off on the journey south to the outskirts of Orihuela town.

The Pared Negra crag rises from the plain to give commanding views for many miles. The rock is a mix of orange and grey and offers phenomenal friction on often weird features. Despite the crag being in close proximity to a main road, it is surprisingly quiet and retains a proper mountain feel, albeit with only a 15 minute approach walk.

From the parking spot on the N-340 the path to the crag is obvious. There is a climbing information board at the parking area too.

Derecha del Espolon (5) - 153m

Pitch 1: This starts just right of the huge pillar. Scramble up easy slabs (thread) to reach a large ledge then climb the wall above on shiny bolts. Keep to the right of the big orange block, when above this trend left to reach the top of the pillar and a belay on the right edge. 50m 5

Before starting pitch 2 proper it is recommended to walk left a few metres to another belay at the tip of the pillar, this will reduce rope drag.

Pitch 2: A tricky move from the pillar gains the wall above. Follow this fairly directly at first but later trend slightly left. A few thought provoking moves will be encountered high on this pitch, but the jugs will keep coming, have faith. A good stance arrives soon. 40m 5

Pitch 3: Follow the bolts trending rightwards then fairly directly up the wall. This is a sustained pitch that provides excellent climbing. Belay at an airy stance next to a hollow. 35m 4+

Pitch 4: Directly up from the belay on slightly polished holds then trend rightwards to a slab in a scoop. A double bolt belay is reached just before the top of the crag. 28m 5

Descent:
Scramble up and right following cairns to arrive at a wire 'via ferrata style' cable, follow this over some exposed ground. Continue to follow the cairns downhill - there may be a fixed rope in place for the steeper section, so keep an eye out for that - to a flat area with a large cairn, this marks the abseil station.
25m abseil then scramble to another wire cable to reach the next abseil station.
30m abseil reaches slabs at the base of the crag. This is still fairly steep and care required. Consider putting a knot in the end of your rope.

This crag receives lots of sun and even with a breeze blowing can feel pretty hot. Carry plenty of water, be sure to apply the sunscreen, and consider wearing a cap for the approach walk.

For those who enjoy long multi pitch mountain routes on excellent rock, this place is well worth a visit.

If you'd like a guide for here and other climbs, canyons, ridges, and walks in the area, please get in touch anytime, we'd be very happy to help

And to find out about lots of other wonderful routes in the region please check out my guidebook - Mountain Adventures Costa Blanca

#climbing-at-orihuela