Many summer hill walkers and climbers are put off winter mountaineering due to the extra cost, effort, cold, variable conditions, and additional dangers involved. These are of course all completely justified reasons to stick with summer activities. We have our fair share of winter days out in very poor conditions, be it deep & powdery snow, high winds, or just poor visibility.
So why do it?
It's for days like today that we do it. Outstanding landscape scenery, simply breathtaking the whole time. The wintery mountains are magical in a way they never could be in summer.
All those reasons above that argue against winter mountaineering are actually the very reasons we do it and love it so much. A rewarding day indeed.

On Saturday we concentrated on basic & essential winter skills. Ice axe & crampon techniques, snow evaluation, movement on steeper snow slopes, and additional considerations needed when out during the winter.
There was a strong northerly wind blowing and cloud base was around 650 - 700m all day. Temperature with wind chill was around minus 14C, so pretty chilly!! This was more than enough to ensure we kept moving the whole time, so covered lots.

Sunday brought quite a change. Big blue skies, zero wind, and when in the sun this was T-shirt weather, yes really.

We tackled Swirral Edge from Red Tarn, but took a more direct approach from the tarn, meaning we had more steep ground to enjoy before the more technical ridge.
​The summit plateau of Helvellyn was very busy with people out enjoying the grand weather, and why not.

So if you've never tried winter mountaineering but always fancied it, what are you waiting for? Give us a call and let's make it happen.

Big thanks to: Anna, Helen, Brian, and Morgan for joining us this weekend.

Mark 

Above photo courtesy of Anna Paxton

A weekend of contrast for the winter skills course I have been running on behalf of Highpoint Mountain Guides.

On Saturday I met Geoff, Andy, Steve, and Richard on a damp and grey morning in Ambleside. From here we set out for Glenridding below the mighty Helvellyn.
This day consisted of getting to grips with the tools of the winter hill-walker. Fitting crampons, walking in crampons, using and storing an ice axe, the ice axe arrest (always good fun), walking over steep and snowy terrain.
All whilst the rain and wind battered us, thus making for a tiring day out for all.

Sunday was a completely different story. Plus skies, lighter winds, and far reaching views to enjoy. We covered some rope-skills before venturing onto steep and snowy terrain in Brown cove crags. The snow slope proved a good challenge for everyone and provided the opportunity to put the newly acquired skills into practice in a very 'real' setting high in the mountains.

Upon topping out from these slopes there were some big smiles going on, it was clear the terrain had pushed everyone, thus giving a huge feeling of satisfaction once at the top.

We finished off with a walk to the summit of Helvellyn, before returning to Swirls and home.

Thanks all.

Mark

This weekend saw a return of the snow and just in time for our 2 day winter skills course for Will & Helen.

About 5 years ago I took Will climbing around Langdale, he's now pushing grade 7a or in other words, climbing very well indeed.

But this weekend is all about winter in the mountains and how to prepare, cope, and deal with the conditions in the UK mountains when the snows arrive.

On Saturday we spent a lot of time near the ski centre on Raise. Here there was plenty of consolidated snow that was perfect for practicing Ice Axe arrest, self belay, steep ground skills, and crampon techniques. We finished off with a walk to the summit of Raise and some great views. The weather was pretty kind, no precipitation and a wind speed of about 25mph.

Sunday was a completely different story!!
The weather forecast was quite horrid, with storm force winds and whiteout forecast along with heavy precipitation. We aimed to stay around the Red tarn area of Helvellyn and that's exactly what we did. Walking up towards the tarn we were being buffeted around and spindrift would cut into our faces even though our hoods were securely up, this was going to be interesting.

A solitary climber walked passed us, he was hoping to climb a gully on the Helvellyn headwall! Seemed optimistic to say the least. Later he passed us again, on his way out, having left the gully for another day.
More climbers passed us, again they were retreating from the storm and deep snow.

We found a safe place tucked under the headwall and with plenty of rock above us to alleviate the avalanche risk. From this base we set about doing the most logical thing possible, constructing a snow shelter of course.
Once built this provided virtually complete shelter from the howling gale that was now swirling around us.

After a brief rest for a bite to eat and warm drinks we back our retreat as by now the wind had become even stronger and at times it was an effort to stand upright.

So whilst we weren't able to stick to a schedule today, the lessons learnt from being out in the wilds of winter are invaluable and every bit as important as other winter based skills. Stay flexible in your planning, adjust if necessary, retreat before things get out of hand.

All in all a really fab weekend, thanks so much to Will & Helen for your good company and seemingly boundless enthusiasm.

Mark

This week may well prove to be the finest week of weather we have all year in the Lake District, it has been truly outstanding with conditions that are rarely seen in the UK. Big blue skies, cloud inversions, snow covered peaks and green valleys - totally Alpine and utterly gorgeous.

On Friday I met up with Anna for winter climbing adventures on the Helvellyn range. Having now climbed all the gullies in Brown Cove Crags, I was keen to venture onto the rock / ice routes and decided to start with a fine looking rib known as 'Parallel gullies rib'. Grade is in the II / III region depending on actual line taken and conditions.
Unfortunately for us, the conditions on this route were less than ideal, we should have headed into the gullies which looked fabulous. I battled with breaking ice, slushy snow, loose rock, and a mix of frozen & unfrozen turf. This made for quite a challenging afternoon!
Whilst I managed to find anchors for belaying, there were virtually no runners, so every pitch felt like a solo, and on this terrain felt quite un-nerving. All in all though, an interesting experience and learning curve and good to get myself back in the game for lonely winter leads with no protection.
Would I do it again? Absolutely, it's fantastic, I love it.

Saturday came and we put our sensible hats back on. Winter skills was on the cards and for this I was joined by Andzelika & Eugeniusz from Ulverston. We based the day in Brown Cove again as this provides a great venue for learning new winter skills. Weather was very good yet again with fantastic views across the valley, over to Skiddaw and as far as Scotland!
We covered a wide range of skills including crampon techniques, ascending / descending steep terrain, ice axe arrest, and avalanche awareness. The sun setting as we walked back to the car provided a fittingly perfect end to a brilliant day out in the mountains. Good to see fellow instructors Joe Harrop & Paddy Cave out busy in the cove too.

Sunday brought another hard frost to Ambleside so good news for winter climbers, and that's what I was doing today with Adrian from Basingstoke.
After seeing how busy Brown Cove Crags & Helvellyn were yesterday, I was keen to stay clear of those venues, so we took a punt on the Red Screes cove. From the Kirkstone Pass we could see that lots of the snow had been stripped, but the gullies were fighting to keep hold of the white stuff. We decided to give it a go and thankfully were rewarded with increasingly good snow higher up in the gullies.
Starting off with Kilnshaw Chimney, which is only about 20 minutes walk from the car. This route can provide a couple of short tricky steps, and today they were almost there, although mostly the route was nice and straightforward. Topping out was mind-blowing, a sea of cloud rolling in from the Irish Sea was beginning to fill the valleys of The Lake District, with all the mountains in bright sunshine above. It would have been quite easy to have stayed in that spot for hours and just absorbed the beauty of our surroundings.
However, we had another gully line in our sights, so back into the cove we go. Right at the back of the cove is a long, thin gully, maybe 200 metres in length. We made short work of this, particularly enjoying the final open snow slopes with that big blue sky above, brilliant.

Another gully line was discussed, but we decided instead to take a walking route back to Ambleside, thus enjoying the fabulous high level views for maximum time. Ambleside was engulfed in thick cloud, so by comparison was a bit horrid!   

With good conditions predicted to continue in the Lakes, now is a great time to visit and enjoy the mountains. The temperature is set to rise so snow will be melting on south facing aspects, but the northerly gullies will likely maintain a good covering. High level walking is currently as good as it ever gets so why not make the most of it if you can.

Remember, many paths are icy and axe & crampons should be carried on all mountain routes as they may well be required for safe travel.

Thanks to everyone for making this a brilliant few days.

Mark

Photos:
1) Clouds rolling in below the Central Fells
2) Anna Climbing 'Parallel gullies rib' in Brown Cove Crag
3) Winter skills course, Brown Cove Crag
4) Andzelika & Eugeniusz - Winter skills course, Brown Cove Crag
5) Adrian on the exit slopes of our 2nd gully on Red Screes
6) Wansfell peaking out above the sea of cloud on this magical day

Now back in the Lakes after an extended stay in Spain, today came as quite a shock to the system.

Winter has well and truly arrived in the Lake District and conditions are very good indeed.

This afternoon I had a walk into the Brown Cove Crags to have a look at conditions. There was no intention to climb anything, just have a stroll and see if there were many folk about.

There were plenty out enjoying the good weather and conditions. And I couldn't resist a quick blast up one of the gullies as a fun way of getting onto the Helvellyn plateau.

The snow near the bottom of the gully (Left Parallel in Brown Cove) was a little soft, but this soon firmed up and from about 50m upwards it was bomber neve almost all the way. This made for really enjoyable and easy progress.

The crags had offered plenty of shelter, but upon topping out a very icy blast tore into me and I could feel a 'head-freeze' going on, so quickly put on more layers. The wind only lasted a few minutes, and the summit area of Helvellyn was actually much calmer.

The plateau is scoured of snow, with just compacted sections remaining, elsewhere there's plenty ice. So crampons and axe are essential at the moment. In fact I found the need for crampons really early into the ascent due to so much - hard to avoid ice - on the paths.

The weather forecast looks promising for the rest of the week too.

Our winter skills courses have started and can be arranged for midweek or weekends.