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Self-rescue for climbers. Practice, it's important stuff

21/2/2021

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#assisted-hoist-skills-for-rock-climbers
Rope all ready to go on an assisted hoist set up. This is where the climber and belayer work together to help the climber overcome any difficulties
By far, this last few months have been the toughest of our lives, and many I'm sure can relate to that. With the first flowers of spring now showing themselves, new hope is created and we look to the future with positivity. For us, it has been a quiet few months and this is the case across the outdoor activity sector. We are well aware that skill fade is real, the old adage 'use it or lose it' comes to mind.
Keen to keep hold and improve our hard won skills as climbing instructors, we have been making sure to spend as much time as possible in mountainous terrain of all varieties. That's all the fun stuff, having big days in the hills, going climbing or scrambling, exploring. Something that may seem more mundane are the self-rescue skills we as climbers should all be aware of and have at least a tricks at our fingertips. As instructors we need more than just a few basics in this toolbox and rest assured we take these skills very seriously.

Over recent days we have been busy working through a huge amount of rescue scenarios so that we do in fact keep these important skills sharp.

Stuck abseiler? No problem, deploy 2 prussic loops onto the weighted rope and go up or down to the person to assist.

Climber nearing the belay stance but struggling with a tricky move? An assisted hoist is rapid to set up and very effective.

Second has forgotten to remove a runner and has now climbed beyond it? No worries, just lock off the belay device and get an Italian hitch belay set up instead, using rope from the anchor end and lower a loop to the climber getting them to clip this into their harness. Lower them to the runner with the Italian hitch giving top rope level safety. Once the runner is removed all can revery back to regular belaying, or stick with the Italian if preferred, they work just as well.

So much more that can happen of course and many more skills to look at. The important thing to remember when working through any of this is to consider what result each step will bring. Is it safe and does it bring you closer to a good outcome. If so, keep going. If unsure, stop. When practicing, we recommend using a back up safety rope, just in case!

There are many manuals that cover self rescue for climbers. We own many of them. By far the very best manual is a relatively recent publication by Andy Kirkpatrick simply titled 'Down'. It's all about how to get yourself and partner out of trouble in a climbing situation. Andy has learnt these skills the hard way, so we don't have to.

We are so looking forward to welcoming you back to the Lake District and can't wait to see the towns, villages, and mountains filled with visitors.  
 
Please do get in touch if thinking of visiting the Lakes, we'd be delighted to arrange some fun outdoor adventures. Gorge scrambling, canyoning, rock climbing, abseiling, guided walking, scrambling, and adventure days.

All the best

​Mark

​
#climbing-skills-course-lake-district-unassisted-hoist-set-up
Preparing an unassisted hoist. This is where the belayer does all the work.
#skills-and-techniques-for-climbers
Another unassisted hoist being set up. This time the belayer has freed themselves (escaped) from the belay system.
#climbing-course-lake-district-ascending-a-rope
Sometimes it's necessary to ascend a rope, this is one way of doing so and uses minimal equipment.
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A couple of days honing our technical and teaching skills

14/4/2019

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#rock-climbing-course-ambleside
Considering when to get the rope out whilst scrambling whilst enjoying sublime conditions in Langdale
We spend a lot of time passing on new skills to our clients, this could be anything from how to read a map to leading a trad rock climbing route. This covers a lot of skills and information, so we need to also be keeping on top of this and always want to be learning new things so we can pass on new skills and latest developments to you.

This last couple of days we have attended two different courses, both focused on teaching mountain based skills.

Firstly a 'Teaching scrambling' day. For this we used White Ghyll Edge and Tarn crag in ascent and descent. As a group of 5 we talked through movement skills and coaching, when and where spotting can be appropriate, route choice and route finding skills. We later considered when would be appropriate to deploy a rope and how best to use it / show it's uses in an easy to remember format. This was an incredibly useful day, with lots of ideas shared. A real take-home improvement for me is the introduction of a clove hitch when taking coils. This brings a great improvement in stability when attached to anchors.

Day two was focused on 'Teaching self rescue skills'. Not something we are asked to do very often and an area many become rusty in, as thankfully these are skills we don't use much.
It was very useful to simply watch someone else explain all the basics, starting with tying off a belay device and attaching a prussic. Setting up an assisted and unassisted hoist, all whilst 'in the system'.
We then went climbing at Upper Scout crags in Langdale and worked through a number of 'scenarios' whilst climbing. Again, it was really useful to share ideas and look at how others approach problem avoidance and problem solving. An important theme that ran through the day was very much 'problem avoidance' as this is so much better than looking for solutions!
We managed a couple of multi-pitch routes before the icy wind chilled us all and we ran back to the valley floor.

Two brilliant days, very well delivered by Nick Canon Jones, thanks Nick.

Mark

#mountaineering-course-lake-district
Easier but still serious terrain near the top of Tarn crag, Langdale
#trad-climbing-course-lake-district
Exploring different methods of releasing a 'guide' style belay device
#self-rescue-for-climbers
A simple and effective assisted hoist set up
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Self rescue for climbers

19/11/2017

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#selfrescueforclimbers
Assisting a stuck abseiler via ascending the rope then unweighting the abseilers belay device
This weekend i've had the pleasure to introduce some friends to rescue skills for rock climbing. I'm always happy when asked about improvised / self rescue, but still surprised by how few climbers actually take an interest in this very important aspect.
These skills are not difficult to learn, it's not 'high order' thinking, but it does need to be learned and practiced in advance of 'things not going according to plan'!
Even on a single pitch, easily accessible crag, a few rope tricks can go a long way to speeding up a crag evacuation and getting the climber into a comfortable place. On a multi-pitch mountain crag or sea cliff, these rope tricks are vital.

Also, a weekend at the crag playing with ropes can actually be a lot of fun, just as much fun as climbing.

We started simple, I was told many years ago by a well known British Mountain Guide (BMG) to 'keep it simple, keep it safe' and this has always stayed with me.

Look for a simple solution, can the climber be lowered to the ground, or will a really tight rope help them over a tricky move? These may solve the problem before it is a problem!

Some of the areas covered were:
Tying off the belay device
Use releasable systems
Escape from the belay system
Assisted hoist
Unassisted hoist (in and out of the belay system
Counterbalance abseil to an injured climber
Lowering passed a knot
Abseiling passed a knot
Stacked abseil systems (problem avoidance)
Abseiling without a belay device
Ascending a rope - to help a stuck / injured climber
Improvised chest harness

Thanks to Miguel, Mila, and Kim for making the weekend such a lot of fun
      
Mark
#rockclimbingcoursecostablanca
Escaping the belay system and simple hoists
#advancedropetechniquesforclimbers
More complexed systems in use for a traverse rescue
#multipitchrockclimbing
What a great days climbing looks like
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Rock climbing courses and more - Lake District

27/6/2017

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#trad_climbing_course_lake_district
A climber cruising 'Needle Arete' E3 at Black crag, Wrynose
All in all it's been another busy week here and thankfully mostly good weather to be out enjoying the great outdoors.
A hot day sent us up to Black crag, Wrynose in search of a breeze. Conditions were perfect up there and we enjoyed a few top quality climbs on its rough,. pocketed rock. Whilst there, a climber was cruising 'Needle arete', so we paused to enjoy the show. At E3 it's a serious route even though only quite short. We then fought our way up a nearby HVS, 'The Prow'.

The following couple of days were filled with enhancing our rescue skills and techniques on crags in the Langdale and Borrowdale valleys. We also managed to climb circa 10 routes whilst going through these scenarios. Keeping all this fresh and practiced is important whether working on the crags or out climbing with friends. Problems can and do arise, knowing how to help is the key to continued enjoyment.
A few of the skills we covered:
Ascending / descending a rope;
Escaping from the belay system;
Assisted and unassisted hoists;
Releasing jammed abseil devices;
Stacked abseil;
Counter-balance abseil;
Traverse rescue / assistance systems.

All lots of fun too.

By Thursday it was time for a walk in the mountains. Helping our friends at Highpoint Mountain Guides, we led a group of lawyers over the Langdale Pikes. Perfect conditions, great views, and good company. Finished with drinks and cake back at the Stickle Barn tavern, lovely.

For the weekend, it was back onto the crags for a 2 day climbing course. Allan & Kim had climbed a fair amount already and were keen to progress so they go safely set up top and bottom ropes using anchors they build. So the focus was all about placing 'bomber' protection at a variety of venues. Plenty climbing was on the cards too of course.
We started at Middlefell Buttress and I led this whilst placing lots of protection and building multi-anchor belays at regular intervals. We then descending via a stacked abseil.
Using the 1st pitch of this route, Allan & Kim then set up a number of bottom ropes and climbed these too.
Other crags visited during Sunday included: Stickle Barn and Lower Scout crags. Around 7 climbs were set up on those crags and this all done by Allan & Kim, so they had lots of practice of placing gear and equalising anchors suitable for top/bottom roping.
​
Thanks everyone for making this another fab week :-)

Mark & Kate
​

#rock_climbing_courses_lake_district
Setting up and equalising anchors for top / bottom rope applications
#climbing_instructor_near_ambleside
The Pillar, E2 at Stickle Barn crag, Langdale
#self_rescue_for_climbers
Scenarios. What to do when things don't go to plan! The makings of a traverse rescue
#guided_walks_lake_district
Kate enjoying a day of work in Langdale
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Rock climbing progression course

15/5/2017

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Rock climbing course, Lake District
Leading 'Wall and Corner' at Wallowbarrow crag
For the first weekend in May we provided a rock climbing progression and self rescue course on behalf of our friends at Lakeland Ascents.
Dan & Becky are both regular climbers and were keen to know more, in particular Becky wanted an appraisal of her gear placements and anchor selection at belays. Both wanted to know more about self rescue, should they ever find themselves stuck on a climb with an injured partner, or simply stuck on a route. Let's hope they never need these skills, important as they are.
Day one was spent in the Langdale valley, climbing two routes at Upper Scout crags and looking at some simple rescue skills.
Day two was spent at Wallowbarrow crag in the Duddon valley. Here we also climbed two routes, with Becky doing most of the leading again. We spent more time looking at more advanced rescue skills, building on yesterdays learning.

Two very full and absorbing days spent in the Lakeland sunshine and on lovely crags, can't ask for much more.

Thanks to Si for the work and Dan & Becky for being great company for the weekend.

Me & Kate also managed a quick ascent of the classic 'Troutdale Pinnacle Superdirect' HVS 5a. This is an outstanding route with sensational moves along a high level finger traverse. So good to be out enjoying Lakeland rock.
​
Rope skills for rock climbers
Good anchor selection and tidy rope work on a belay ledge
Assisted hoist, self rescue for climbers
The assisted hoist set up
Rock climbing in the Duddon valley
The Duddon valley
Troutdale Pinnacle Superdirect, Lake District rock climbing
Troutdale Pinnacle Superdirect
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Self rescue for climbers

21/11/2014

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Penon de Ifach, Calpe
The photo above shows a climber on one of the big routes on El Penon de Ifach in Calpe. This huge Limestone sea cliff is famous for amazing climbs in the most impressive of positions. What the brochures don't talk about too much is the seriousness of the place and the amount of loose rock, there's loads!
An absolutely brilliant place to climb, let there be no doubt about that, my best days in this area have been on the sea cliffs.
Before going to these places, I find it reassuring to refresh a few basic rescue skills and techniques, to be on top of the game. 

Recently there's been a few articles published on-line regarding self-rescue for climbers. Indeed it's an important subject for any climber, whether leading or seconding and regardless of the grade they may be climbing, mishaps can occur anytime and often when least expected.

It was years into my rock climbing career before I started to think about the 'what ifs' when things go wrong (I wasn't working in the climbing sector back then), why it took me so long i'm not sure, but my best guess is, it isn't something that many climbers bother to consider, and the subject had never arisen. Pretty unbelievable really. And when I did start to question people about the techniques for getting out of trouble, knowledge was sadly lacking. We're talking here about climbers who were frequently operating on sea cliffs and big mountain crags, so self rescue skills to some degree are essential rather than optional.

Thankfully over the years a selection of skills courses and self learning has left me in a far better position these days. Mostly though, what I discovered is that only a few quite simple techniques are required and these can be applied to a variety of situations (like many of life skills).

Rule 1: always make sure to keep yourself safe when going to help others
Rule 2: calling for help is always a good idea. If you can then do so immediately
Rule 3: Think simple. What's the simplest solution to the mess you're in. Simple = quicker = more efficient = probable better outcome :-)
Rule 4: Devote some of your climbing time (yes it's precious, but so is life) to learning & practicing a few simple techniques

The photos below show:
1: a tied off belay device. Quick and easy to learn, useful to know
2: set up for an un-assisted hoist - useful if you need to haul your 2nd up to the belay ledge or passed a tricky move
3: counter-balance abseil in the process of being set up. Useful as a means of descent to an injured 2nd

The 3rd photo showing the counter-balance abseil being set up is a technique at the forefront of my mind at the moment. Only a few weeks ago, whilst on a multi-pitch route, the leader inadvertently dislodged a large block. I heard the shout from above 'BELOW' and moved accordingly, the block missing me be only a few feet, phew!
A counter-balance abseil being the next step, should I have been injured and unable to continue. A sobering thought. Thankfully, I was climbing with a knowledgeable partner that day, so know the right steps would have been taken.  


How to learn these skills:
Study a relevant book;
Ask friends whom you climb with, they may be able to help;
Practice these techniques in a safe place, with a back up rope if necessary;
Book onto a self-rescue for climbers course - we can arrange these in the Lake District; Snowdonia; Peak District; and Costa Blanca areas
 


Using half hitches to tie off a belay plate
un-assisted hoist set up
counter-balance abseil set up
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