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Mountaineering skills and some fine ridge scrambles

10/1/2022

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#bernia-ridge-traverse-costa-blanca-spain
Looking west along the Bernia ridge
Over the last few days I've spent a little more time on the local ridges here in Costa Blanca. The Bernia and Segaria ridges are places I know very well, having traversed both many times. Until this week I hadn't attempted the Bernia as a solo day, so decided to have a go at a quick, solo ascent.
There is a lot to consider before setting out onto a big ridge or any mountaineering environment, especially so if going solo.
Weather, gear, skill set, fitness, daylight hours, escape plan, who knows where I am. Just a few things to be considered.

With all of the above taken into account, I set off for an afternoon ascent of this wonderful ridge. There were a lot of walkers out enjoying the fine weather, I wandered if anyone would be up on the ridge. I moved fast, soon arriving at the tunnel through the base of the ridge and 10 minutes later I was up on the crest enjoying views down to the coast. The weather was perfect, no wind and completely clear. Now on the rocky terrain I slowed the pace so more considered movement could be employed, this is not a place for a slip!
Even with this slowing of pace, as I was solo so all obstacles could be tackled immediately, I covered ground much quicker than I had expected. Soon I was at a small abseil, so sorted the rope and after a thorough check whizzed down it. A few minutes later another abseil station was reached, this one being above a bigger drop and I knew the rope was going to be borderline long enough. The rope length turned out to be perfect. I had knotted the ends of the rope just in case it had been too short.
Lots more straightforward scrambling brought me to the main challenge of the day, a 4+ climb of about 25m. This is very well bolted and I had come prepared to aid the initial moves as the rock is very slippery. A lanyard and 2 quickdraws were enough to keep safety limits acceptable and me moving efficiently over this steep terrain. Clipping in the 'draws to a bolt and pulling on the 'draw gave me a huge advantage. Yes this could have been done without aid (and typically would be when using a rope), but a fall from this section is unthinkable and safety comes first. As the terrain eases once more a high point is reached, I de-harnessed at this point.

With the main difficulties behind me, I felt myself starting to relax a little more. This needed attention as when we loose focus we make mistakes. I switched the brain back on.
Dropping down onto the scree before the main summit of Bernia I now only had an easy scree path to descend before the tourist path would be reached. Until now I hadn't seen another person or animal since joining the ridge. Right in front of me stood a herd of Ibex, every one of them had their gaze fixed on me! I tried to be as quiet as possible so as not to disturb them, but it was too late, they were already retreating. But 3 stayed much longer, perfectly still and focusing on my every move. Moments like this are such a privilege.

This had been a brilliant afternoon, with many mountaineering skills practiced.

Yesterday, a last minute change of plan put the nearby Segaria ridge into the picture. It is splittable into 3 sections so can be done in a short space of time. Perfect for an afternoon out.
Yesterday the weather wasn't so calm though. We had clear blue skies, but a strong north-westerly wind. A ridge scramble could be extra exciting. The Segaria isn't high, so I felt it to be a reasonable objective, I also approached with an open mind about turning back (always do this). The wind at Portet Beniarbeig - which is a big notch in the ridge - was pretty high, but to be expected given the terrain and wind direction, so this didn't deter me. But I did take some time to investigate the effects of the wind a little more. The small trees and shrubs up on the ridge were not being blown around, this was good news. Onwards.

Interesting scrambling leads out of the notch and up onto the exposed crest. Once on this it can be followed directly for much of the way. At times the wind was too strong on the very top, so I dropped slightly to the south side and was instantly given shelter. I was noticing an increase in wind speed as I progressed along the ridge. I was slightly concerned by this and adjusted my speed and stance to compensate. Very close to the end of the ridge is a short, exposed and difficult down-climb. This required total focus in order to get the sequence correct. I knew once I had descended this there would be an island of safety in the form of an abseil station. What I hadn't realised was quite how windy it would be at the abseil station!

22m to the ground and a big footpath, but it felt so much further. Even trying to take the rope out of my backpack required all my effort, the wind was that ferocious. Having eventually threaded the rope through the anchor, I began to coil it ready for a throw. Not quite sure why, but I took hand coils and cast them in the hope they may end up on the ground. No chance, I needed to fully engage the brain again and consider how best to get the ropes down. I tried a 'rope bomb' which is something like a big ball of rope. This didn't work either, in fact it made things worse as the rope made slightly more progress than before and just enough to allow it to become tangled. Oh joy.
With the ropes stuck and no amount of tugging would free them, I attached to the abseil rope, double checked everything and set off to fix the problem. Thankfully I was able to do this after only descending a couple of metres so ascending back up was easy.
I took some time to consider a variety of other methods for getting the rope down during extremely windy conditions, but also took time to look around my immediate surroundings. Actually I could abseil southwards rather than north, this would make all the problems go away.
Sometimes a solution is easier and closer than it seems, keep an open mind and a look out for it.

Minutes later I was off the ridge and out of the wind. A fun adventure with a final twist.

Mountaineering is an extremely rewarding pastime, but it does come with quite a helping of danger. Beware of this and be prepared. Build skills over years, and don't rush into things. Training courses and technical books are worth considering. We can arrange skills courses suitable for all levels and these are available from early March through to late November, based in the Lake District.
If looking for a technical book of all things mountaineering, the very best currently available is 'Down' by Andy Kirkpatrick.

Thanks for reading

Mark   
​

#bernia-ridge-traverse-scrambling-skills-course
Looking east along the Bernia - yes there's a safe way down that.
#segaria-ridge-traverse-costa-blanca
Segaria ridge - route finding can be quite challenging on here
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Segaria ridge - Mountaineering days on the Costa Blanca

6/12/2018

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#costablancaridgeclimbs
Enjoying big exposure and amazing views on the Segaria ridge
This week has seen a lot of farming activity in the region. The result is lots of farmers are busy burning the dead wood, thus allowing some nutrients back into the soil. These times can cause some tension though, with residents becoming upset by the amount of smoke, and yes it can be a bit of a pain. But today it was hugely in our favour and made the Costa Blanca mountains and coastline even more heavenly than usual. A thin veil of smoke hung over the valleys, creating wonderfully atmospheric conditions, we simply had to spot and stare, a lot!

Our vantage point was rather splendid, the mighty Segaria ridge. This is only a few minutes from our winter base and provides around 4 - 5km's of brilliant ridge scrambling. Whilst it's possible to complete a full traverse in a long day out, we had limited time today, so opted for some of the 'best bits'. Meaning lots of grade 3 scrambling on a knife-edged arete, with the whole place to ourselves and a 25m abseil to finish.

All this was doable at a leisurely pace in an afternoon, about 4 hours actually. We started the scrambling at the huge notch and traversed the ridge westwards from there to finish at the TV masts. Of all the sections of ridge, this is my personal favourite as it allows for minimal kit to be carried, whilst still enjoying technical terrain in a hugely impressive setting.

Yes you'll notice that everyone in the photos is wearing short sleeve tops, and yes this is December! Winter is the absolute best time to visit Costa Blanca for rock climbing, scrambling, via ferrata, mountaineering, hiking, canyoning, or even lying around on the beach :-) 

If you're looking to escape the UK / Northern Europe for a few days of sunshine and keen to experience an adventure in the mountains, look no further, give us a call / e-mail and let's make a plan.

Thanks to Kate, Leanne, and Laurie for joining today.

Mark

#segariaridgecostablanca
And it goes on for miles too, so much top class scrambling and climbing
#outdooractivitiescostablanca
Climbing out of the big notch, with Montgo in the distance
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Segaria ridge traverse

16/1/2018

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#segariaridgecostablanca
The initial traverse
With friends visiting last week we eased off a little and enjoyed some down-time, although did still manage a day at the splendid Marin crag near Alicante with Wayne, a trip down the Barranco del Pas de Tancat (Bolulla), and a visit to Viudes crag near Tarbena.
Today it was time for some exercise again and what better than the nearby and very dramatic Segaria ridge. Only a 10 minute drive from our winter base in Llosa de Camacho, i'm not sure why we don't visit this one more often.

Our team today was: Kim & Jenny climbing as a pair, and Me, Kate, & Ann climbing as a 3.
We were in no particular rush, so cruised along the ridge, taking time to absorb our surroundings, breath in the fresh mountain air, and of course chat :-)  I'd not been out climbing / scrambling as a team of 3 for a while, so it was a good to revisit these useful skills.
​
Some will feel happy to solo most or even all of this traverse, which is fine. We opted for the safety of a rope from the initial traverse section onwards. This slows progress a little, but only a little, we think it's worth it.

Our plan was to descend from the midway col, so this includes all the more difficult sections of the ridge, including the crux climb (about grade 4+/Severe).

The weather: yes we've heard it's been a bit cold and damp in the UK, sorry to hear that. It's been the complete opposite here in Costa Blanca. Today the thermometer read 25C! With clear blue skies & light winds what's not to like?
After a day on Segaria, we well remember the term 'Segaria sharp'! The rock on and around this ridge is super, super sharp. Our fingers now tingle from its delights.

With so much amazing 'sport climbing' here in Costa Blanca, it's easy to dismiss the more adventurous mountain days. The 'trad climbing' is excellent, exciting, and adventurous. You're also unlikely to see another person all day on any of the bigger trad routes and ridges. A great tonic after a day at Sella for example.
The trad gear required for most ridges here is fairly minimal. A set of wires, some extenders, and a few 120cm slings. The slings are the most useful kit as there is an abundance of threads in the Limestone.

If you'd like to escape the UK winter for a few days / long weekend, and 'hot rock' is your thing, why not get in touch and let's make a plan.

Thanks for reading

Mark  
#costablancaclimbingactivities
Me & Ann on the ridge
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Segaria ridge traverse, Costa Blanca

15/12/2016

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Segaria-ridge-traverse-Costa-Blanca
On one of the many narrow sections
After lots of days focusing on rock climbing, we decided a change was necessary, so a more mountainous day was planned. Close by is a long rocky ridge, it's spectacular to look at and even better to be on.
Having completed a full traverse (about 4 - 5km) recently and knowing how exhausting that is, we opted for a slightly more relaxed version and started at the half way point. Thankfully, this ridge can even be split into 3 sections, although 2 is fine. A very enjoyable way to spend a day.
The walk up is steep, but on a decent path all the way to the col. From here things become more arduous underfoot and full concentration is required the whole time. The scenery keeps on getting better, and soon we reach the summit, Edd does a balancing act on the trig point!

The ground soon becomes rockier and much narrower, with some easy climbing sections. This keeps everyone focused and absorbed, revelling in our surroundings. Narrow, rocky crest, tricky hand traverses, and soon we arrive at the final abseil station, about 22m takes us down onto a PR route near the old fort. From here it's all walking terrain with the setting sun and a beautiful mountain backdrop as our companion.

As a team of 7 we traversed this in 5 hours 30 minutes and it always felt quite leisurely. A lovely day in the mountains with good company, thanks all.

​Mark
​
Segaria-summit-guided-walking-Costa-blanca
Edd making sure he summits!
Segaria-ridge-rock-climbing-course-Costa-Blanca
Great traverses on the Segaria
Abseiling-Lake-District
Kate on the final abseil
Guided-walking-Costa-Blanca
Kate & Kim on the walk out
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Rock climbing, Big ridge scrambles, and Water skiing. It’s all here on the Costa Blanca

3/11/2016

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Rock-climbing-course-Spain
Matt & Rachel on the first summit of Segaria Ridge
After a brief rest we headed back to the local crags, climbing 6 routes. L’Ocaive crag provides welcome shade until mid-afternoon, making it an ideal venue for warmer days. The outlook is superb and it’s only a few minutes from the house, can’t fault it then!
​
The steep and sharp nature of L’Ocaive took its toll on our fingers so Friday called for a shorter crag session. We had plenty of admin to be doing anyway so that worked well. During the afternoon we did however venture over to the nearby Segaria TV crags, just for a look. Well, we packed climbing kit too, just in case. As predicted, it was peaceful and in the shade. We set about choosing routes, finding a couple of lines that looked enjoyable. Both routes we climbed here were very well bolted and gave interesting climbing on impeccable limestone, we’ll definitely be back for more. With easy access, great views over the valleys and to Pego marshes, there’s plenty to recommend this little known crag.
 
For the weekend we were joined by friends from Castellon. Their plan being to climb on the sea cliffs near Javea. We decided to tag along too and enjoy some rock climbing by the sea. Sonjannika is a 6 pitch climb of about 180m and provides stunning climbing in quite unbelievable positions on this massive cliff. The big bonus with climbing here is the nearby beach for post climb swimming in the warm sea.
 
On Tuesday I had work planned guiding Matt & Rachel over the Segaria ridge. However, a last minute call from our friend Ann and an invite for us all to go water skiing saw us postpone the ridge traverse and check out some water sports. We discovered that Rachel is a natural skier, with Matt and Kate being pretty good too, whilst I don’t have sea legs so had to get ditched for a while and sunbath instead. All in all a fantastic day all round.
 
Wednesday became our Segaria ridge day, so an early-ish start to give us a fighting chance. This narrow, rocky ridge is over 4km long and a traverse involves numerous pitches of rock climbing, 3 abseils, and a huge amount of airy rock scrambling on the sharpest limestone ever! We made swift progress to the base of the ridge, but already the sun was tiring us. We climbed about 4 pitches of rock before an easing let us revert to solo mode and a speeding of our movement. The nature of the terrain requires constant concentration at all times, so we made sure to have plenty of short breaks to let our brains recharge.
Our cut-off time at the big col was set for 2pm, we arrived at a staggering 12.30pm. This allowed us to ease off the power a little, enjoy more stops, and check out the views.
We took the time to re-equip an old abseil station, making it safer for us and those traversing in the future. More very airy scrambling led to our final abseil down to the Segaria TV crag, bringing with it some very welcome shade and a well deserved rest! The walk down was nice and easy, initially through pine trees, then orange grooves. We all arrived back suitably exhausted, out of food and water, but extremely happy with a satisfaction that only a big mountain day can bring.  
 
If you’re looking for an action packed holiday, short break, or a day out during your holiday here in Spain, give us a call / email and let’s make it happen. Rock climbing, mountain walking, scrambling, canyoning, and via ferrata.
 
Thanks
 
Mark
Rock-climbing-improvers-course-Costa-Blanca
View from Sonjannika, Cala Moraig
Water-sports-costa-blanca
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Multi-activity fun in Costa Blanca

27/1/2016

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Calpe-Penon
Calpe and the Penon from Toix Este
The climate here on the Costa Blanca is about as good as it gets. Warm sunny days, low rainfall, and sheltered from harsh  westerly winds. And of late the weather has been behaving particularly well with near perfect conditions every day, split or what!

We've been making the most of these great conditions and have enjoyed a few big adventures.

Segaria ridge:
A few weeks ago I completed a traverse of the western section of this fine ridge: ​www.mountain-journeys.co.uk/blog/segaria-ridge-traverse-part-2  --  and now was time to finish it off by climbing the eastern section in full.
A short walk under the steep eastern face leads to rough ground and the initial traverse pitch. This is easy, but exposed and it's nice to have a rope on. Once in the notch it's a case of follow the wide ridge until an abseil station is reached (20m). More easy climbing leads out of this deep notch along more of the ridge to reach another significant notch. Here it's necessary to climb leftwards along a platform (not to the right as described by Rockfax) below very steep ground, as this eases (about 10m) follow a ledge system back right towards a fixed rope and belay above. From here easy scrambling leads to the summit cross.
Soon after this is a very narrow section of ridge, this is really exciting. Once beyond this the ridge widens considerably and easy scrambling and walking remain to reach the wide col. We turned left (south) here and headed back to the car.

Puig Campana:
The plan was to repeat Epsilon Central (HS) on this massive crag. However, even though we started out early, there were already 3 teams on the route, and 2 more teams arrived shortly after us!! Plan b, a slightly easier route called 'El Moro' (Severe). This is about 350 - 400m and contains a fair bit of scrambling too. We had the route to ourselves which is always nice. We didn't have the base of the route to ourselves though! Goats, a whole;e herd of them, came to see us. They particularly liked our climbing kit. It was a privilege to be so close to these animals and for them to clearly not be afraid of us. A beautiful start to the climbing.
About 10 pitches later we arrived at the top of the route, briefly considered a summit dash too, but thought better of it as our water supply was by now very low. The descent into the huge gully was easier than I remembered it, thankfully.

Toix Este - Horst:
This is a favourite of ours and a route we've done many times with many people, it's always a pleasure. Starting high above the sea and with views across to the Penon, it's a wonderful setting. The 1st pitch of climbing is the most difficult, but the rest of the route (4 more pitches) are still very worthwhile and on super sharp rock that's nice and solid. The route terminates at what looks like a small quarry. Walk left here (looking in) to gain the continuation ridge above, this leads up to the Mirador at about grade 1.
From the Mirador it's easy to finish off and head to town for a beer. Or, why not walk to Toix Oeste and climb Cilber up to the Toix ridge and finish with a full traverse of this, again finishing back at the Mirador. Then you've really earned that beer!
On this occasion we cut it short and called it a day after the Toix Este route.

Via Ferrata - Ponoch:
A regular trip for me, a re-visit after 4 years for Kate, and a first time for Leanne. Much fun was had by all on this metalled, vertical playground.
Cloud rolled in and shrouded us, but later cleared to show the full scale of Ponoch. Note to self - must get more routes ticked on this mountain.

Magical Mystery Tour, Toix sea cliffs:
A magical expedition to a dramatic sea cliff. The 40m free-hanging abseil sets the tone for this serious adventure. Whilst the initial climbing is easy (about grade 2), this soon changes and the challenges come thick and fast.
As with all the very best routes, the hardest pitch is saved until the end, with 40m of grade 5 and only about 6 bolts protecting the whole pitch, keeps things interesting that's for sure. A simply brilliant route.

Thanks to: Kate, Leanne, Joe, Ann, Kim, and Susie for joining in these adventures.

​


Segaria-ridge-traverse-Costa-Blanca
Ann & Kim on Segaria ridge
Puig-campana
Morning light on Puig Campana
Puig-Campana
Goats on Puig Campana
Via-ferrata-costa-blanca
Kate & Leanne on Ponoch Via Ferrata
Magical-mystery-tour-Toix-sea-cliffs
Magical Mystery Tour, Toix
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Segaria Ridge traverse - part 2

5/1/2016

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Segaria-ridge
It is about a year since our last visit to Segaria, here's what happened on that day: http://www.mountain-journeys.co.uk/blog/category/segaria-ridge

So a few days ago I decided it was time to return. Not to try a complete traverse, as I would be scrambling solo, but to complete the rest of the ridge and the longest section.

Starting quite late, I raced up to the col above the recreation area, even Kate was find the pace a bit quick! But there was a mission to get on with and speed would be key.
From the col Kate & Don descended tracks to the North side to complete a walking circuit which would meet up with my route later. I began the scramble to the main summit of Segaria. Easy but prickly.

The ridge soon became more exciting, but the main joy came from the amazing view along the ridge line, absolutely spectacular.
I was expecting some abseils so had a 50m rope and some climbing hardware with me, carrying all this made me so much more wary on the exposed sections as my bag was heavy and occasionally put me of balance!
Reaching the first abseil, which led to a massive gash in the ridge, I decided to down climb instead as it was quicker and straightforward.

Once in the big notch I eyed up my route back out, and on initial inspection this looked scary! The exposure would be huge and with plenty of loose rock around this was definitely something to take with extreme caution. The climb was far easier than it looked and the rock mostly very good, and soon I was on a knife edge ridge enjoying big exposure and scrambling at its very best. Route finding was nice and easy, but there was still always the element of what's around the next corner, and I would later find this taxed me a lot mentally.

I began to descend this narrow ridge and it briefly widened, so much so it was possible to jog a few sections. I could see Kate & Don sitting in the sun watching my progress. I was nearing the end of the ridge and was pretty pleased as my brain was ready for a rest! I soon found fixed anchors in the rock, but these proved useless for an abseil. So I continued to search and found a number of other pieces of fixed gear, none of which were suitable.
I descended a little more, passing a pinnacle and down to a tree, here I found the double bolt anchor that would take me to the ground safely.
This abseil was less than 25m (I had a 50m rope) and led to a grassy area and path next to a north facing crag. After a brief rest, we enjoyed a lovely walk out along the southern flanks of Segaria.

This section had taken around 4h 30m car to car for a solo traverse.

Next is to link it all together, that'll be quite a day!

Abseil-on-Segaria-ridge
Scrambling-Costa-Blanca
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Ridge Scrambling Adventures with a big 'A'!

27/12/2014

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Costa Blanca rock scrambling - Segaria ridge
After early explorations of this ridge and a desire to traverse it for some years now, today was the day we actually set foot on its rock.

Our intention was to tackle the first section of the ridge which takes in the main summit and a few others too. This seemed like a sensible objective for our first time on the ridge. However we got far more than we bargained for!

Early route finding difficulties were soon ironed out, but time had already been lost (and we hadn't made an early start).

Soon we recognised some obvious features and our hopes were raised. The scrappy scrambling became excellent easy climbing taking in some dramatic scenery. Once on the arete proper things became even better, although route-finding was still far from straightforward.

There was a general lack of protection on the arete and with lots of loose rock, we were unable to move particularly quickly, all costing yet more time!

An abseil of almost 25 metres brought us into a huge notch on the ridge, from here an easy climb saw us back on the arete and dropping into yet another notch. This time we spotted a fixed rope (as mentioned in the guide we had), but with time marching on and the prospect of darkness catching up on us, we decided to abseil off the ridge and into the heavily vegetated terrain on the north side. Painful and tedious, but safe and definitely the right decision.

The remainder of this magnificent ridge will be waiting for us and we hope to return very soon to complete the traverse.

Slight disappointment was in my thoughts as we walked back to the car, even a sense of failure that we didn't complete our objective.
But on reflection, we couldn't have hoped for more, and most importantly, we came back safely, ready to try again soon :-)

Photos:
Above = part of the Western section of ridge.
Below: Kate on easy ground on the arete with Montgo towering behind.
Bottom: Climbers on the initial col and about to gain the ridge.
 
Rock scrambling Costa Blanca - Montgo
Rock climbing - Segaria ridge
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