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In search of the esoteric....Duddon valley

23/5/2020

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#navigation-course-lake-district
Crag search on the lower slopes of Harter Fell
Back on Wednesday we managed to fit in a family day out climbing. No ordinary climbing day, but then, they never are!
With thoughts for our rural communities at the forefront of our minds, we didn't simply want to turn up and be walking through isolated farmyards. So I contacted the farmer who's land we planned to climb near to and sought their advice. He responded quickly and politely, saying he was happy for us to park on his land and pass through the farmyard, providing we took great care to sanitise gates after use and that we don't bring dogs. As we would have Don with us this particular venue was not going to work for us this time.

So as we were taking Don with us today, we completely changed venue, by miles in fact. Heading instead to the remote Duddon valley. The lower slopes of Harter Fell have seen much forestry clearance in recent years, this work has unearthed a lot of rock. Local activists have been busy cleaning many of these buttresses and enjoying the wonderful climbing on offer. We thought it about time we had a look too.

We had two particular crags in mind. One a single pitch venue offering slab climbs up to VS grade. The other having some low grade multi-pitch climbing. Both settings looked to be idyllic.

Setting off from Birks Bridge car park armed with climbing rack, ropes, picnic, and a sense of adventure, we made our way onto Harter Fell. Both of us have walked and scrambled on Harter Fell many times, albeit quite a few years ago now. So we remembered some of the paths. We were gaining a lot of height and could see a confusing array of rock outcrops littering the hillside. Using a mixture of map, compass, pacing, and digital navigation techniques, we made our way closer to the crags. But the amount of rock was confusing, which bit did we want. After one false crag was visited we found our chosen venue and from here could easily work out where our second venue was. Phew!

The approach walk had been over some very rough, tussocky ground. But the views and peace this valley offers more than made up for that.

After a picnic we set about to do some climbing. Not paying much attention to the route details, we simply picked lines that looked appealing - this is generally my preferred way - and thankfully the rock rewarded us greatly. The friction was superb on this super rough seemingly untouched rock.
Whilst protection on the climbs was quite reasonable, it took an age to find decent belays at the top of the crag. But after much digging out of cracks, some quality placements were located. We left all this in place to safe time on the following climbs and to enable abseils back to base.
After about 5 routes on the slab it felt like we had done all that was here, so decided to explore the neighbouring venue.

The information we had showed 3 multi-pitch climbs all graded 'Severe'. They looked okay from below so we thought let's do all 3 then go home.
The first climb was great fun but very easy, more like a Diff. The second climb was slightly more tricky, giving a move or two that needed some thought. The third route looked to be covering very similar ground, so we decided not to bother as it was getting quite late in the day.

The Southwest slopes of Harter Fell offered us a secluded and idyllic venue to climb in peace all day. We didn't see another person whilst at the crags. It is far easier to aim for the honeypot climbing and walking venues and be guaranteed good climbing with easy access, but let's not forget there's lots of amazingly good esoteric climbing out there. These venues allow for far easier social distancing, so well worth considering in the current climate. You may also be surprised at just how good these places are.

The crags visited were: Upper Buck crag slab & Upper Buck crag. Details for both and many more can be found on the FRCC website. Although do feel free to ask us too.

Our opinion is, if you're looking for lower grade single or multi-pitch climbs in a stunning setting and want peace and quiet, give these a try. If looking for harder climbs, there are plenty of other crags on Harter Fell that tick that box too, certainly up to around E5/6.

And to reiterate: The Lake District is welcoming visitors again. We know many of you need some time in the countryside, up on the mountains, or on the crags. We know how important mountains are to many people. So please visit if you want to. Be considerate to the rural communities, avoid farmyards as much as possible. Be self sufficient by bringing food and water with you. A few more car parks are re-opening but check ahead as some are still closed. Many public loos are still closed too.
All accommodation is still closed and no overnight stays are allowed.
​
We are now offering activities on a 1:1 basis. We will social distance in line with government guidelines and keep all equipment as clean as is practicable to help ensure yours and our safety.

Thanks for reading

Mark & Kate 

#outdoor-activities-lake-district
Enjoying some newly discovered rock in the Duddon valley
#family-rock-climbing-lake-district
A sunny spot below the crag
#rock-climbing-lake-district
Some great views over to Coniston Fells from the top of the crag
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Moving on in sport climbing - Costa Blanca

18/11/2019

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#lead-climbing-course-costa-blanca
Cruising a route at Toix Oeste
Over the past couple of days we’ve been introducing Marco & Marjolein to the delights of multi-pitch climbing. Both already accomplished sport climbers whom had already been on an outdoor climbing course with our good friend Vicky Foxwell.
Now ready to move on from single pitch sport to longer routes, including those with abseil approaches and descents. There are a lot of new skills needed to move on to bigger climbs in a safe way, but with a good skill base, two days is enough to get things started.
 
We spent both days on the crags of Sierra de Toix on the outskirts of Calpe. With a wide selection of low – medium grade climbs up to around 100m and many involving abseil descents, this makes for a perfect crag for anyone looking to progress to multi-pitch climbing.
 
As mostly Marco would be the lead climber, we focused on setting up belays based on block-leading. This means using a sling to equalise the bolt anchors and usually belaying directly from the ‘master point’. As well as repeating this a number of times during the climbing day, we managed to fit in 3 abseil descents, one being a multi-stage abseil.
 
Day two revisited some topics from yesterday, then built on them. We began building belays using only the rope, so a more complex procedure, but well worth knowing and very useful. More abseil descents again, with Marco and Marjolein taking control to set these up. As the day progressed some crag rescue scenarios were introduced so the couple have a base of knowledge in case things don’t always go to plan. Dealing with a jammed belay device, ascending a rope, simple hauls, releasing a ‘Reverso’ type belay device and more all being covered.
 
We didn’t quite get the standard warm Costa Blanca weather, but the sun did join us and when the wind abated it really was more like t-shirt weather. The mix of sun, cloud, and mountains really is glorious from this crag too.
 
Big thanks to Marco and Marjolein for joining us, it’s been a pleasure and lots of fun. And thanks to Vicky for pointing these lovely people in our direction.
 
Happy climbing
Mark  




#rock-climbing-course-spain
Equalising belay anchors using the rope whilst on a 2 pitch climb
#climbing-holiday-costa-blanca
Climbers enjoying 'Cliber' 5+ on another sunny day in Spain
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Guided rock climbing in the Lake District

23/4/2019

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#climbing-course-lake-district
Mikka about to tackle the steep section of 'Slab Climb' at Castle Rock
The Lake District, like much of the UK has been enjoying some amazing early season sunshine and warmth over the Easter break. This has brought out lots of people, all enjoying the splendid scenery and environment of the Lake District, always great to see.

It's been a very busy time for us too, no doubt partly helped by the great weather.

For the last 4 days we've been showing Mikka (originally from Finland but now residing in London) some of the brilliant climbing the Lake District has to offer. Having already climbed in Snowdonia, the Southwest of England, and Southern Spain, oh and the Alps, the Lakes had it's work cut out.

Our brief was to give lots of mileage on rock.

We started at Raven crag in Langdale, climbing: Evening Wall; Original Route; and Revelation.
For day 2 Sam took Mikka to climb the Borrowdale classic 'Troutdale Pinnacle' and they finished with Brown Slabs Arete at Shepherds crag.
Day 3 we headed for the Duddon valley and Wallowbarrow crag. Climbing Wall & Corner; Trinity Slabs; and Thomas.
Day 4 and our final day with Mikka was to be shorter as a train needed to be met for the return journey to London. Castle Rock provided the easy access we needed. We climbed Gangway; Slab climb; Yew tree climb; and Via Media.

Somewhere around 32 pitches of climbing over 3 and a half days, mostly at 'Severe' grade. I think it's fair to say we gave Mikka the mileage he was looking for.

​If you're looking for something similar, please get in touch and let's make a plan.

When the sun shines, there really isn't anywhere better to be than right here in the Lake District. And preferably on a crag. 

Thanks for reading, hope to see you soon

Mark


#guided-climbing-lake-district
Enjoying the minor classic of 'Thomas' at Wallowbarrow crag
#rock-climbing-langdale
Local climbers enjoying a sunny day at Raven crag, Langdale
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Transition to trad - Rock climbing in the Lake District

13/5/2018

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#guidedrockclimbinglakedistrict
Enjoying the wonderful rock on Upper Scout crag, Langdale
This weekend we've had the pleasure of introducing Rachel & Naz to the amazing crags of the Langdale valley. When the sun shines this is by far my favourite place anywhere, simply gorgeous.
And the sun certainly shone this weekend :-)

We started at Upper Scout crags and climbed routes 1 & 2 - both being really fun, but Route 1 being particularly brilliant. If you're in the area we can highly recommend it. The crag was busy with folk making the most of the warm sunshine. But there was a distinct 'chilled out' feel to the place and people which was lovely. Everyone simply out to have fun, enjoy a few climbs and good company whilst drooling over the magnificence of the Langdale valley (or was that just me)!

Today we moved along the valley to Raven crag. Starting with the ultra classic 'Middlefell Buttress'. This was busy but very sociable. We even saw Lakes legend Dave Birkett 'run' up the route on his way to Gimmer! We took our time, enjoying the spacious belay ledges and going through belay and anchor skills whilst enjoying the climb.

Later we moved on to 'Original Route' and enjoyed 3 pitches of fine climbing, with more skills looked at along the way.

Back to London now for the girls, but we hope to see you both again soon :-)

Mark
#rockclimbingcourselakedistrict
Route 2 at Upper Scout crag
#rockclimbingcourseambleside
Smiles is always were it's at. The best climber is the one having the most fun :-)
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Lake District rock climbing....Magnificent trad!

18/2/2018

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#rockclimbinginstructorlakedistrict
Wallow barrow crag in the Duddon valley
With spring only just around the corner, it'll soon be time to dust off the trad climbing gear and start heading back out onto the wonderful rock faces of the Lake District.
With some much to choose from and spread all over the National Park, there really is a climb to suit everyone, from complete novice to experienced pro.

Our knowledge of the area and its crags is extensive. As well as all the well known spots, we've visited many of the more esoteric venues, made a few 1st ascents, and even had our hand in the Eskdale section of Lake District Rock (FRCC) guide.

The photos give a quick visual tour and go like this:
Wallow barrow crag - in the glorious Duddon valley, this secluded gem is perfect for those looking to gain mileage on top quality routes from V'diff - VS standard and most climbs are multi-pitch. A sheltered and sunny setting with an easy approach walk and far reaching views over the wooded valley.

Black crag, Borrowdale - set in another wooded valley, this time with Derwent Water in the middle too. This crag offers classic routes of the highest quality from Severe - Extreme. If I remember correctly, the photo is whilst on Troutdale Pinnacle Superdirect - Kate climbing.

Gowder crag, Borrowdale - this is more adventure climbing, this route pictured is a 3 star VS but is sadly overgrown on the lower pitches and the upper pitches contain too much suspect rock for it to be a worthy route. The main traverse pitch is however excellent.

Black crag, Langdale - set high above the Langdale valley on the slopes of Pike O'Blisco. The nuts and bolts of rock climbing, placing protection. Here we are slotting a nut into a crack and 'seating' it so it won't pull out of its own accord. A crucial skill for the trad climber.

Scout crags, Langdale - our local crag and an area we use extensively for work and play. There are 3 crags here set one above the next and all offering different climbing. Lower Scout is a good introductory venue. Middle Scout is very steep and hard! Upper Scout (pictured) is pleasant multi-pitch offering wonderful view along the valley in both directions.

Tremadog, North Wales!! Yes this one is definitely outside of the Lake District boundary. We like to visit other climbing areas around the UK and North Wales is a fairly popular one for us. Here we are climbing the steep corner of a VS. The slippery nature of the crux meant we both slipped on this climb, thankfully neither of us actually fell off.

Whether you're a complete novice thinking about having a go at climbing for the first, a regular indoor climbing wanting to progress to outdoors and 'real rock', or a seasoned outdoor climber wanting to learn more advanced skills and techniques. We can tailor days / courses to suit your individual requirements. Our extensive knowledge of Lakeland rock benefit you during any course as we are able to pick the best venues for your aspirations.

Want to talk more, get in touch anytime and let us put together a plan to get you climbing higher and better.

Happy climbing

Mark

#guidedrockclimbinglakedistrict
Black crag, Borrowdale
#guidedclimbingnearkeswick
Enjoying the superb rock of Borrowdale valley
#rockclimbingimproverscourselakedistrict
Practicing placing 'trad' protection
#leadclimbingcourselakedistrict
Lead rock climbing course, Langdale valley
#rockclimbingcourselakedistrict
Tremadog - On a recent visit to North Wales
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Rock climbing courses and more - Lake District

27/6/2017

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#trad_climbing_course_lake_district
A climber cruising 'Needle Arete' E3 at Black crag, Wrynose
All in all it's been another busy week here and thankfully mostly good weather to be out enjoying the great outdoors.
A hot day sent us up to Black crag, Wrynose in search of a breeze. Conditions were perfect up there and we enjoyed a few top quality climbs on its rough,. pocketed rock. Whilst there, a climber was cruising 'Needle arete', so we paused to enjoy the show. At E3 it's a serious route even though only quite short. We then fought our way up a nearby HVS, 'The Prow'.

The following couple of days were filled with enhancing our rescue skills and techniques on crags in the Langdale and Borrowdale valleys. We also managed to climb circa 10 routes whilst going through these scenarios. Keeping all this fresh and practiced is important whether working on the crags or out climbing with friends. Problems can and do arise, knowing how to help is the key to continued enjoyment.
A few of the skills we covered:
Ascending / descending a rope;
Escaping from the belay system;
Assisted and unassisted hoists;
Releasing jammed abseil devices;
Stacked abseil;
Counter-balance abseil;
Traverse rescue / assistance systems.

All lots of fun too.

By Thursday it was time for a walk in the mountains. Helping our friends at Highpoint Mountain Guides, we led a group of lawyers over the Langdale Pikes. Perfect conditions, great views, and good company. Finished with drinks and cake back at the Stickle Barn tavern, lovely.

For the weekend, it was back onto the crags for a 2 day climbing course. Allan & Kim had climbed a fair amount already and were keen to progress so they go safely set up top and bottom ropes using anchors they build. So the focus was all about placing 'bomber' protection at a variety of venues. Plenty climbing was on the cards too of course.
We started at Middlefell Buttress and I led this whilst placing lots of protection and building multi-anchor belays at regular intervals. We then descending via a stacked abseil.
Using the 1st pitch of this route, Allan & Kim then set up a number of bottom ropes and climbed these too.
Other crags visited during Sunday included: Stickle Barn and Lower Scout crags. Around 7 climbs were set up on those crags and this all done by Allan & Kim, so they had lots of practice of placing gear and equalising anchors suitable for top/bottom roping.
​
Thanks everyone for making this another fab week :-)

Mark & Kate
​

#rock_climbing_courses_lake_district
Setting up and equalising anchors for top / bottom rope applications
#climbing_instructor_near_ambleside
The Pillar, E2 at Stickle Barn crag, Langdale
#self_rescue_for_climbers
Scenarios. What to do when things don't go to plan! The makings of a traverse rescue
#guided_walks_lake_district
Kate enjoying a day of work in Langdale
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Rock climbing refresher day - Langdale

3/10/2016

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Rock-climbing-in-Langdale-Ambleside
Steep climbing on 'Oh heck Direct' MVS at Lower Scout Crag
Today we've been running a climbing refresher day for Charles from Northern Ireland. Having climbed a few times over the years Charles was well familiar with most of the knots and quite a few skills and techniques, so this was more of a 'brush up' skills day whilst enjoying some rather nice climbing too.

We used Scout Crags in the Langdale valley and had the place to ourselves the whole time. Surprising, given the fantastic weather conditions. Skills covered included: Basic knots for climbing; placing and removing trad gear; building anchors; belaying; abseiling; top & bottom rope systems.

A grand day out in the sun, perfect temperature and conditions for rock climbing. With a good forecast for the rest of the week, if you have any free time, now's the time to get up to the Lakes and enjoy the great outdoors :-)

Mark
Autumnal-colours-in-Langdale-rock-climbing
Autumnal colours in Langdale
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Learning to lead - Rock climbing course, Lake District

1/9/2016

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lead rock climbing course, Lake District
Lead climbing on Raven crag, Langdale
The date has just popped up as I started to write this blog, wow can't believe September is here already! Good news is, September usually turns out to be a great month for rock climbing here in the Lake District, let's hope this one is too.

Earlier this week I was running a climbing course on behalf of Highpoint Mountain Guides. Guy, who is a keen sport and indoor climbing, has been seconding trad climbing routes for a while now and was ready to begin the transition to lead climbing, a big step.

We began at Long Scar on Pike O'Blisco. This wonderful crag has loads of routes throughout the grade range and an emphasis on easier routes under 20m long, so an ideal place to start. Guy led 4 routes today, with Anna seconding, thanks Anna. We finished the day with a slightly more difficult route, then headed for home, making plans for tomorrow.

Tuesday morning brought with it light drizzle, we had been spoilt by yesterdays glorious sunshine! Undeterred, we headed into Langdale and to Raven crags. A light breeze was helping keep the rock dry-ish as we set off up Middlefell Buttress which Guy & Anna took alternate leads on throughout the 5 pitches. Once on the huge ledge at the top, we discussed our options for descent before setting up an abseil. As Guy hadn't done this before, we took time to go through the process so Guy could set this up himself. About 26m lower down we arrived in the bed of the gully, retrieved our ropes and continued down to the base of the climb. Lunch time had most definitely arrived!

To finish the day, Guy took the lead once more for an ascent of Original Route on the main crag. This is more difficult and certainly made Guy more cautious with his moves. Anna led us off the crag via an easy escape route and back to base once more. The day ended much brighter and drier, thankfully.

Over the 2 days we covered a lot, including:
Placing traditional climbing protection;
Anchor selection;
Equalising 2 & 3 anchors;
Belay stance management;
Setting up an abseil;
Guidebook interpretation;
The leaders rack;
And lots of rock climbing

Big thanks to Anna for helping us out with this. And to Joe at Highpoint for the work :-)

​Mark
Lead climbing course, Lake District
Placing protection at Long Scar
Rock climbing anchors
3 equalised anchors
Equalising belay anchors at Raven crag, Langdale
Equalising 3 anchors
Lake District rock climbing course
Long scar, Pike O'Blisco
Setting up an abseil, Middlefell Buttress, Langdale
Setting up our abseil from Middlefell Buttress, Langdale
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Rock climbing course, Lake District

19/8/2016

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Rock climbing course, Lake District
Jo on the 3rd pitch of Original route, Raven crag
It's been another busy week here in the Lakes, and the sun has been showing itself which has made being outdoors and on rock even more pleasant.
We have been joined by Jo Bradshaw, for a 'trad' rock climbing course, and where better to do this than right here in the Lake District.
Already an accomplished high altitude mountaineer, with numerous very big summits ticked, Jo was keen to develop her rock climbing skills. To find out more about the impressive things Jo gets up to, check out her website: www.29029feet.co.uk 
We began on the crags of Pike O'Blisco: Long scar & Black crag. These crags offer impeccable rock that is a pleasure to climb on. During the course of the day we climbed 5 routes, set up an abseil, and spent time selecting anchors & building belays using a variety of systems.
 
The following day we stayed in the Langdale valley and climbed routes 1 & 2 at Upper scout crag and Original Route on  Raven crag. During lunchtime, we helped out a fellow instructor (thanks Si) to set up a bottom rope system ready for their clients to climb. This gave Jo the opportunity to set up a rope under some time pressure, she actually managed to set up two, good effort!

Today the weather broke and heavy rain descended! Thankfully this didn't have much impact on our day as the plan was to have a more technically intense day anyway. Hodge Close quarry was the venue for this, sheltering under the big trees whilst going through many scenarios including those mentioned below.
Top & bottom rope systems; releasable / non-releasable abseils; in / out of reach anchors; stance management; belay methods; escaping from a belay system; abseiling to a stuck / injured climber, and problem avoidance whilst climbing.
​
Thanks very much Jo, it's been a pleasure and so good to meet you & Daisy.

​Mark
SPA refresher, rock climbing course
Equalising 3 anchors using the rope
Trad rock climbing course, Lake District
Placing passive protection
Lake District rock climbing course
Going for the arete on Route 1 - Upper Scout crag
SPA refresher course, Lake District
Setting up a bottom rope system at Lower Scout crag, Langdale
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Lead rock climbing course

7/8/2016

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Lead rock climbing course, Shepherds crag, Lake District
Top of Brown Slabs, Shepherds crag, Borrowdale

Out on the Borrowdale crags with a couple of local friends today. We had in mind to climb a few classics with me leading, but this changed after a chat on the journey North. Erja would get back on the sharp end of the rope and take the lead whilst I helped out as and when needed by being on a fixed rope nearby.

Our chosen route, 'Brown Slabs' is a 'diff' but due to the amount of traffic it's quite worn and a bit slippery, making it feel more difficult than the grade suggests.

The aim of this session was to improve gear placements to help keep the lead climber safe. Erja placed plenty of protection and with a little advice every piece became excellent, as Jen will testify (much of it was difficult to remove)!

With rain imminent we decided against another route, this turned out to be a good call, the heavens opened in a big way soon after leaving the crag!!

Fantastic leading Erja, well done.

And thanks to both Jen & Erja, a grand afternoon.

​Mark 
Lead climbing course, Lake District
Erja clipping another 'bomber' gear placement at Shepherds crag
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