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Happy New Year - and a little write up about some climbing on a very big sea stack

1/1/2022

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#the-peñon-of-calpe-rock-climbing-on-the-north-face
The glorious north face of El Peñon d-Ifach
Happy new year everyone. Thank you all so much for your support, we are super grateful :-)

It has been a year of pretty intense highs and lows, I'm sure that's the same for many folk out there. We'll keep this climbing related though, and that side of things has been ace. Whilst much of the UK suffered a rather wet summer season, the Lake District was much drier than usual, meaning mountain crags were climbable for many days over summer. We did our best to take advantage of this and did manage to climbing on the Esk Buttress and on the East Buttress of Scafell. Both very special places, really hope we can visit them more often.

We enjoyed a very busy summer and all through autumn too, having fun in the canyons and gorges, scrambling, climbing, abseiling, and many guided walks. Again, thank you all so much for joining us.

At the beginning of December, I escaped to Spain and Kate is due to join shortly. For a winter holiday and some personal development. Work here in Spain is on hold for us for now, whilst Brexit continues to unfold. We hope to be able to offer activities here again in the coming years, but for now the winter trips to Spain will be our holiday.

I like to keep busy though, even on holiday. The Cicerone guidebook I've been working on 'Costa Blanca Mountain Adventures' has now been submitted to the publishers so hopefully only a short way to go now before that's available to purchase. With that work complete, it has allowed for more climbing time on routes I may not normally be looking at. More difficult routes in some cases. And this brings me on to our final day of 2021. What to do for New Years eve, hmmmm.
Okay, let's go and climb a really hard (for me) route on The Peñon in Calpe. This venue was chosen as the weather is currently very warm so we needed a north facing crag in order not to melt. Only having climbed 1 route on the north face this seemed a good opportunity to try another. So we opted for 'Verde Esmeralda' an E2 / 6a+ multi-pitch climb.

In a nutshell, this route is fantastic and well worth climbing for anyone operating at HVS / 6b and possessing a high sense of adventure.

Verde Esmeralda - E2 / 6a+  100m
Start by the small cave just before the tunnel on the main path. 
Pitch 1: 30m 4+ Climb just left of the cave, battling though a small tree to reach a wide and impressive groove. Continue up this following a few fixed threads. A stance is reached about 10m below the obvious orange roof. Belay here.
Pitch 2: 10m 4+ Continue towards the big roof, trending right to reach a bolt on the lower lip, move right again and up to the bolted belay. This is a hanging belay, so worth getting as comfortable as possible.
Pitch 3: 20m 6a+ This pitch is fully bolted and the bolts are pretty close together for the hard moves. Make wild moves directly up from the belay (using your belayers shoulder helps), all on big jugs but the terrain is severely steep. Keep going and very soon the angle eases and the climbing becomes more enjoyable. Climb the slab trending slightly left to reach a more comfortable belay with a single large staple bolt.
Pitch 4: 30m 5 Move left from the belay into a bushy corner, climb the corner system above with provides delightful climbing. At a small ledge move right onto a slab with a couple of small red dots, follow this to a small pinnacle then make an awkward move to gain the upper slab. Clip the bolt above then move back down slightly and traverse left a couple of metres before going upward again to reach a comfortable ledge with bolt and peg belay.
Pitch 5: 10m 4 Go rightwards to gain a shallow groove and follow this to the top.

Descent: Ascend slightly then traverse via the easiest line until a rocky scree gully can be seen, descend into this and follow it down to the path. 

What an amazing way to round off the year. I hope you've all had a great start to 2022 and your year is filled with joy, positivity, and adventure.
Thanks for reading

Mark :-)
​

#climbing-course-ambleside-lake-district-multi-pitch
Kim arriving at the hanging stance below the crux pitch
#calpe-coastline-rock-climbing-on-el-penon-d-ifach
Views are every bit as good as the climbing
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Parle - Toix sea cliffs

13/12/2017

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#parlecostablanca
Ann arriving at the 1st belay on the rock bridge
There are certain things in life that bring us the shivers. For me, one of those things was a rock climbing route on the Sierra de Toix sea cliffs. I'd been very keen to climb this for ages, but until last winter the bolts were in a dangerously poor state, so it stayed in the back of my mind. Tales from friends who had ventured through the hole into the abyss were also enough to keep us away!
But when the bolts were replaced,there was no excuse, I just needed to find a willing and able partner (not always easy for a route with such a big reputation, this is not a 'costa clip up' style route).

Ann kindly agreed to join me. When she saw the abseil descent there may have been some meditation going on! Setting up the abseil is not straightforward as it's necessary to re-belay on a bolt hanging over the edge, this needs to be done whilst dangling above about 70m of air! Every abseil we set up we check and check again. This abseil was checked even more than usual, there is definitely a scare factor going on at this place!

Once on my way down the fun began. Amazing scenery, views out over the sea, peace and quiet, amazing rock architecture all around. Ann soon followed whilst I sorted the climbing rope and checked out the 1st pitch of the route.

Pitch 1: Trending left from the rock bridge on huge holds up the steep left wall, I forged a way up this, clipping the occasional bolt (there's not many) as I climbed. Soon I was standing on the rock bridge high above Ann and clipping into a belay station. That was all nice and straightforward, fun climbing.

Pitch 2: This became steeper, as it forged a way up heading slightly left from the belay. Holds were never obvious but were almost always very good. Bolts were very spaced again, perfect. A hand traverse rightwards leads to a hanging stance at the next belay station. This is apparently the crux pitch, but felt pretty easy. Looking down whilst taking in the rope, I noticed the exposure had built up rather a lot, absolutely fantastic!

Pitch 3: The real crux! Awkward moves off the belay stance lead to a left trending ledge system. This time the holds aren't so good, there's also more evidence of polish on the footholds. The further left I move the more the exposure builds, it's mind-blowingly amazing. I need to remember to focus on the climbing though, so only try to look at the view when next to a bolt, for this is no place for 'airtime'! All too quickly i've reached the top and am building the final belay. Ann cruising up to join me. We hang around a while longer to watch some friends finish off their climb, then we pack up and head for home.

Happy and satisfied at a climb well done.

Ace route, probably the best sport climb i've ever done.

Thanks Ann

Mark   
#guidedclimbingparlecostablanca
Pulling through steep and dramatic terrain on Parle
#abseilingnearbenidormcostablanca
Now that's an abseil!
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Adventure - on the edge!

12/12/2017

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#mountaineeringspain
Safely down from the route after the scary abseil
Dos Hermanos - VS
The online guide / topo suggested this route to be 'the best at its grade in the area for mountain rock climbing'!
We'd suggest this information is a little out of date and some dramatic changes have taken place.

Occasionally I hear about the enchanted area around Sanchet, known as the 'haunted walls' & 'pleasure domes'. These huge rock walls are impressive and are a natural draw to any adventurous rock climber / mountaineer. They require more effort than the standard 'Costa clip up' type routes of Sella & Toix. The rewards could be high, but so too is the danger level. These walls are not well frequented, not well documented, have complex approaches and tricky route finding. But still they are a draw, the setting is possibly the best in the area, maybe the best i've ever been to.

A couple of years ago I climbed a new route on these crags 150 Jupiters and was blown away by the stunning setting and potential for more exploration and new routes.

I was joined by Anne, Anna, Richie, and Kim. All up for an adventure and wearing helmets!
The approach walk was easy and through pretty scenery, soon we arrived at the base of the initial tower (the 1st brother).  I'd already checked out this tower and had decided to by-pass, moving straight on to the big tower (big brother), a short scramble got us up there easy enough.

Geared up and ready to go, we climbed a 2 teams. Suddenly it was me leading the way, first on the route. That wasn't in the plan! Off I went, slow & steady, checking each hold and looking for gear placements. The others all happily chatting away at the base of the route. The further up I climbed the more disturbed I became, with most of the rock being loose and any protection placed also being in / on loose rock, this was not a happy place. The voices of my friends laughing and joking became a major distraction, even after warning them of the looseness they appeared oblivious to the dangers and my predicament (although i'm sure they weren't).

Fear began to creep in to my thoughts, I had to fight this off, won't help. Arriving at a large ledge there was a sigh of relieve, but alas this was brief, there was no protection and it was all crumbling around me!
After much searching and placing 4 anchors I felt safe enough to shout 'Safe'. Once the others began to climb they quickly realised what i'd been trying to say. This place is Scary, and that's with a capital 'S!

Kim led the next pitch, this time to a better belay ledge. She then continued up a corner crack. This looked great, but was actually very loose and had little protection. The potential for a big fall onto nasty ground was all too real. She managed to place a good wire and from that retreated back to the ledge. The others now joined us on this now rather busy belay ledge and it was decided we would all retreat.

An abseil of about 25m was set up off the side of the route. Guess what, this had plenty of falling rock on it too. With ropes running over sharp edges, and rock missiles everywhere, this was a very engaging descent with good teamwork required throughout!

With everyone safely off the route and only a small amount of gear abandoned, we stopped for lunch. All feeling relieved but glad to have tried.

Adventure is when we don't know the outcome. All too often we do know (or at least have a very good idea) the outcome. It would be easy to see this as a wasted day, when little was climbed and too much danger was seen. I don't think any of us walked away thinking that. I certainly didn't. A day such as this is an experience that will be remembered for ever. It will add to our bank of fortitude.

As an added bonus, we stumbled upon a wonderful slab of rock during the walk out. Some bolts already in place and some trad routes possible. We did a bit of both.

A good day :-)

Big thanks to my fellow adventurers today: Anne, Anna, Kim, and Richie.

Mark
#belayanchors
A very busy belay set up!
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Rock climbing - Calpe, Costa Blanca

18/10/2017

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#rockclimbingcalpe
North face of El Peñon d'Ifach
First climb since arriving from the UK on Monday morning. I was joined by Stig from Norway for Via Pany on the cool and shady north face of El Peñon d'Ifach, Calpe. This massive sea stack draws the crowds from far and wide, impressive as it is. We too were drawing quite a crowd as we set off on the initial pitches which are directly above the main path to the summit.
It's been very warm here of late, hence the decision to go for a north face. Escaping the sun whilst climbing is a necessity for the time being, but things are likely to cool off to a more comfortable temperature soon.

Now that Stig has been back into rock climbing for over a year (having many years of previous experience to draw upon) he felt it was time to lead trad again, so we alternate led the whole route.

Via Pany is a 7 pitch VS (very severe) with mostly excellent rock and mounting exposure. It certainly takes a steady head to keep cool on the lead, and Stig cruised it.

We topped out into warm sunshine at the summit, having been pleasantly cool in the shade all the way up. As we began our descent we noticed more climbers finishing a route on the South face. Brave or what given the hot weather! Turns out they'd started really early so escaped the furnace that the south face becomes on warm days, but still looked pretty baked!
The crux on any route that tops out on the summit of El Peñon must surely be the descent! Probably the most polished Limestone ever!! This somehow only adds to the fun and experience of a day spent on this magnificent crag.

Thanks Stig for another great day climbing 

Mark

#rockclimbingcostablanca
Stig cruising up pitch 3 of Via Pany
#guidedclimbingcostablanca
Top of our climb and the summit of El Peñon
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Magical Mystery Tour, Calpe

26/12/2016

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Sunset-over-Benidorm-from-Toix
Sunset over Benidorm
Recently i've been thinking more and more about why I go rock climbing. Why venture onto precipitous cliffs, enter into  potentially dangerous situations, and climb big (or small) lumps of rock.
We'll no doubt all have slightly different answers to this. Of late i've spent time observing others more closely to understand their climbing needs.
I've found my answer, why do I climb. Yes, it's partly for the movement over rock, the satisfaction of climbing a route and reaching the top.
But there are overhelming factors to a fantastic day out on the rock:
1) The people we are with
2) The places we explore

Grades are simply unimportant, and it's repeated plenty times that the best climber is the one having the most fun. This is so true.  
​
Todays route was on the Toix sea cliffs near Calpe. Magical Mystery Tour is a 5 pitch route with a max grade of 5. So the climbing is never particularly tricky, but there's so much more to this place than the climbing and I was reminded of that today. Sharing amazing experiences and places is what it's about, thank you Miguel & Mila for joining me on this today and sharing your enthusiasm for wild places.

Mark

Improvers-rock-climbing-holiday-Spain
Loving the adventure
Lead-climbing-courses-Costa-Blanca
Miguel leading pitch 4
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More 'hot rock' Costa Blanca climbing!

3/12/2016

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Rock-climbing-improvers-course-Costa-Blanca
Seth looking focused whilst leading the brilliant 'Mono-Slabic' 6a at Alcalali crag
It's been crazy busy here over this last week, with loads of guests and all of them making the most of the massive amount of rock climbing available nearby. The Toix ridge and Bernia ridge have both been ticked, nice one Joe & Seth. We've enjoyed some coastal cragging at Morro Falqui, had a lovely evening in the historic old town of Altea, ticked a load more routes at the nearby Alcalali crag and visited a newly developed sector on the Gandia crags.

A starting point for any visiting climber is a guidebook and Rockfax produce a very good one for Costa Blanca. For reasons of space, it's not possible for the publishers to include all the crags, so lots of excellent crags are missing and of course all the newly developed crags are missing too (there's plenty of these and plenty more in the pipeline).  
We've visited a few of these crags and always had great times, rarely seeing another climber and always enjoying fabulous views and sharp rock.
Today the crag was part of the Gandia crags and has a range of grades from 5 - 6c, we climbed 7 routes from 5 - 6b+, everyone of them well worth doing, giving superb climbing on sharp, well bolted rock.
We have about half a dozen more newly developed crags to visit over the coming weeks, so watch this space for more info on what we find.

A quiet night here in Llosa de Camacho, all guests have gone home, but more arrive tomorrow and we have lots more adventures in store.

Thanks to Liz, Leanne, Joe, Seth, Rachel, George, Ann, Mike, Vicky, and Edd for an amazing week :-)

​Mark & Kate
​
Rock-climbing-course-Spain
Vicky enjoying the sharp rock and fine routes at a recently developed crag
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Guadalest rock climbing and souvenir shopping!

4/11/2016

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Rock-climbing-improvers-course-Spain
Rachel enjoying the crags of Guadalest
​A change of pace for us today and a new (for us) climbing venue visited. Having been to have a look at the Guadalest crags a couple of years back, I’d since been keen to go back with climbing kit and do some routes and it all blended well for that to happen today.
I would climb with Susie who is wanting to get back on rock and enjoy the sensation of rock climbing. Kate & Rachel would climb together and tick off a few of the steeper routes on offer, and there’s so much on offer up here.
 
Me & Susie worked our way through 8 routes, all of which are to be recommended, all are green spot routes in the Rockfax Costa Blanca guide and located on the Penya Maura section of crag. Kate & Rachel started in the same area before moving over to the Penya l’Alcala crag. They also reported good things about the routes climbed. A thumbs up all round for Guadalest crag then. On top of good climbing here, the views are fantastic and include the Guadalest reservoir and the Cumbre de Aixorta mountains with their serrated rocky spires.
 
During the summer months the narrow streets of Guadalest fill up with tourists looking to pick up souvenirs of their holiday to Costa Blanca. Thankfully, during the cooler months it’s a much quieter village and the quaint streets and shops can be enjoyed to the full. Post climbing coffee overlooking the crags is not to be missed either, needless to say we indulged in some of this.
 
If visiting the Costa Blanca and looking for an escape from the coast, this place is well worth putting on the list.
 
If you’re looking for an action packed holiday or short break here in Spain, give us a call / email and let’s make it happen. Rock climbing, mountain walking, scrambling, canyoning, and via ferrata.
 
Thanks
 
Mark
Costa-Blanca-rock-climbing
Lunch with a view at Guadalest crag
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Rock climbs, mountain walks, and scrambles on the Costa Blanca

27/10/2016

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Jalon-valley-rock-climbing
Kate climbing El Coloso at Covatelles
Some down time for us now, before our next visitors arrive and more courses begin. What to do with the free time? Go exploring of course!
 
A warm up session at the local Alcalali crag for starters and ticking at least one new route.
Over the weekend we took the dramatic mountain road over the Col de Rates to Bolulla crag. This road is worth the drive all by itself and please make sure to take the time to stop at the café at the top. They serve amazing cakes, oh and the view is spectacular. Late afternoon is the best time for views. But don’t leave it too late, the café closes at 6pm!!
 
Bolulla crag had been on my list of places to visit for ages, so I was really pleased to be heading there. Access is easy, although parking is limited to around 3 or 4 vehicles. The approach up to the crag is a scramble rather than a walk, very steep and good fun. The base of the crag has a few trees that provide plenty of shade, the crag itself is exposed so can be quite breezy. The guidebook suggests the best feature of this crag is its outlook. I agree. Whilst the climbing is nice, the views are outstanding.
We climbed 4 long single pitch routes this afternoon. All were sustained and all worth doing, with ‘Tutl’ being the highlight for me.
 
Just a few days ago I traversed the Bernia ridge with Soo, however Kate hadn’t been over it for a few years now and was mad keen to go back! So on Sunday we headed over to Bernia for a rapid ascent of this brilliant ridge. I was focused on a quick traverse in order to help fitness, so kept pushing quite hard most of the way. This resulted in a 4 hour car to car time. The cloud came in a few times and shrouded the ridge, clearing for brief moments before smothering us again, this created wonderfully atmospheric conditions, a real treat.
At the climbing section we caught up with a solo climber. He was being sensible and using ‘roped solo’ techniques to protect the bolted section.
 
On the hillside behind our house in Llosa de Camacho, I have spotted a potential scrambling route up to the summit. I’ve been itching to check it out, so on Monday teamed up with Kate & Don to go have a look!
Walking from Llosa we followed good trails to L’Ocaive crag, from here the scramble leaves the ‘PR’ route, Kate & Don continued their walk whilst I began the bramble bash! A series of rocky steps provided good sport and thanks to the Wild Boar there are tracks between each buttress of rock. As is to be expected, there’s plenty loose rock up here, but also some wonderfully solid and sharp Limestone. As I neared the final buttress I could hear rustling in the nearby bushes, then they appeared, first about 10 of them, Wild Boar, then about another 10!!! All wanting to get away from me, much to my relief. But what a sight and so close by. I had been humming to myself and generally making a noise as I proceeded up the scramble and can recommend this as it’s better to disturb the Boar in advance of your arrival.
There appeared to be impenetrable vegetation ahead, but again thanks to the Boar a path led through this and soon onto the well marked PR trail. Soon meeting up with Kate & Don again for a return walk via L’Ocaive and home.
 
On Tuesday, along with our friend Ann, we had planned to visit the local crag of L’Ocaive, but low cloud was making everything feel damp. So instead we tried our local in a neighbouring valley and went to Covatelles crag. This was a first for us, having never been before. The rough track made for a challenging approach drive (well done Ann), but the walk in was nice and easy. The climbing felt hard for the grades and generally very steep. One route we climbed had a huge overhang at the start, this led to very pumped arms!! A bit of aid climbing was resorted to higher up the route, but we did it.
 
By Thursday our local crag, L’Ocaive was all dried out and looking mighty fine again. A session here saw us tick another 6 routes including the magnificent ‘Placa Mania’. When the sun is beating down, this crag is the perfect venue as it stays shady until about 3pm. So we were able to enjoy pleasant temperatures but still get some sun during the late afternoon. Thankfully no aid climbing today!
 
If you’re looking for an action packed holiday or short break here in Spain, give us a call / email and let’s make it happen. Rock climbing, mountain walking, scrambling, canyoning, and via ferrata.
 
Thanks
 
Mark
Bolulla-crag-Costa-Blanca
Bolulla crag
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Cala Moraig beach and the Morro Falqui cliffs
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    Mountaineering Skills
    Mountain Leader Refresher
    Mountain Run
    Multi Activity Week
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    Murla Crag
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    Navigation Course
    Navigation Skills
    Needle Ridge
    New Routing Costa Blanca
    Night Navigation
    North Face Of El Peñon
    North Lakes Guided Walks
    Ogwen
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    Orihuela
    Parallel Gullies Rib
    Parle
    Pavey Ark
    Peak District
    Penon De Ifach
    Penyalba
    Penya Migdia Ridge Scramble
    Pepsi Crest
    Pike O'Blisco
    Pillar Rock
    Pinnacle Ridge
    Pirates Of The Caribbean
    Place Fell
    Pla De La Casa
    Pleasure Domes
    Pluto
    Ponoch
    Ponoig
    Priest Hole
    Problem Solving Whilst Canyoning / Abseiling
    Prussik
    Puig Campana
    Raco De Las
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    Raven Crag
    Raven Crag Langdale
    Raven Crag Yewdale
    Redovan
    Red Screes
    Red Tarn Winter Skills
    Red Tarn - Winter Skills
    Rhoscolyn
    Ridges Costa Blanca
    Ridge Scrambling
    Ridge Scrambling Costa Blanca
    Ridge Walks Costa Blanca
    Rock Climbing
    Rock Climbing Borrowdale
    Rock Climbing Calpe
    Rock Climbing Costa Blanca
    Rock Climbing Course
    Rock Climbing Duddon Valley
    Rock Climbing Eskdale
    Rock Climbing For Families
    Rock Climbing In Borrowdale
    Rock Climbing In Langdale
    Rock Climbing Lake District
    Rock Climbing Langdale
    Rock Climbing Refresher Course
    Rock Climbing Scafell
    Rockfax
    Rock Improvers Course
    Rock Scrambling
    Rock Scrambling Costa Blanca
    Rock Scrambling In Langdale
    Roldan's Notch
    Rope Skills For Scrambling
    Runestone Quarry
    Ruthwaite Cove
    Sadgill Wall
    Scafell
    Scafell Pike
    Scafell Pike In Winter
    Scout Crags
    Scrambling
    Scrambling Costa Blanca
    Scrambling On Scafell Pike
    Sea Cliff Climbing
    Segaria
    Segaria Ridge
    Self Rescue For Climbers
    Sella
    Serrella
    Shepherds Crag
    Sierra Aitana
    Sierra De Toix
    Sierra Ferrer
    Single Pitch Climbing
    Sin Nombre
    Skiddaw
    Skin Repair Balm
    Sky Running
    Slab & Notch Route
    Slate Climbing
    Snail Shell Crag
    Snowdonia
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    Snow Hole
    Sonjannika
    Sour Milk Gill
    SPA Refresher Course
    Sphinx Ridge
    Sport Climbing
    Sport Climbing Equipment
    Sport Climbing Holiday
    Stacked Abseil
    Stag Party
    Stake Gill
    Stickel Tarn
    Stickle Barn Crag
    Stickle Ghyll
    Stickle Ghyll Hydro Scheme
    Stickle Tarn
    Stockghyll
    Stoney Cove Pike
    Stoneycroft Ghyll
    Striding Edge
    Sunrise Walks
    Swimming Wild
    Symphony Crack
    Talisker
    Tarbena
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    Tarn Crag
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    Team Building
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    The Bell
    Thorn Crag
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    Toix Sea Cliffs
    Tophet Wall
    Trad Climbing Costa Blanca
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    Trail Running
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    Trail Running In Spain
    Tremadog
    Troutdale Pinnacle
    Tryfan
    Tyrolean Traverse
    Ullscarf
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    Un Assisted Hoist
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    Upper Scout Crag
    Vall De Gulabdar
    Via Esther
    Via Ferrata
    Via Ferrata Callosa De Segura
    Via Ferrata Costa Blanca
    Via Ferrata Les Marujes
    Via Ferrata Penya Figuerta
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    Via Gene
    Viaje Espacial
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    Villena Via Ferrata
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    Walking And Scrambling Costa Blanca
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    Walking In Spain
    Walks From Ambleside
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    Wasdale
    Water Skiing Costa Blanca
    Wearing A Helmet
    Welsh 3000's
    Westmorland's Route
    What To Take Sport Climbing
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    White Ghyll Edge
    Why We Climb
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    Wodens Face
    Women Week Costa Blanca
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    Yorkshire 3 Peaks Challenge
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    Zip Wire

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