Category: Ponoch - Mountain Journeys - Guided Walks

Mountain skills and thrills - Ponoch

23/1/2022

#ponoch-mountaineering-routes-costa-blanca

The massive wall of Ponoch

When wintering in Costa Blanca, which has become pretty standard for us over the last 10 years. We usually manage a few trips up the Ponoch via ferrata as it's a really good workout. A few times over recent years, I've extended this with a scramble all the way up onto the summit plateau, this is 100's of metres higher and adds so much to the day.

A couple of days ago some friends were heading to do the via ferrata and they hadn't experienced the continuation scramble. Kate was still to do this too. So we had a proper mountain day with a mix of steep via ferrata, ridge scrambling, and plateau navigating to reach the summit of Ponoch /Ponotx.

The main face of Ponoch is around 500m high and steep all the way. The via ferrata follows a fine arete for about 250m to finish at a lower plateau. From here a ridge can be joined, initially this overlooks the massive south wall, so exposure is pretty biblical.
With some weaving around, an amenable way can be navigated all the way to the edge of the upper plateau. This is mountaineering terrain though, so care is required as loose rock is in abundance and straying off route would be serious.

From here a couple of choices of descent await. Firstly there's an abseil station about 10 minutes walk/scramble away. This is good if wanting a shorter walk and more technical rope-work. That wasn't on the menu today though, it was high and wild mountain terrain that was needed and this place delivers.
Just keep walking uphill, across rough limestone pavement, occasional cairns aid navigation, slightly! Enjoy the peace and serenity of this wild landscape, don't rush, stay quiet and look out for the Goats and maybe even Ibex.

Eventually the summit is reached and the views open up even more. Puig Campana; Aitana; Xanchet; Bernia; even Ibiza if the air is super clear. Good paths lead back to base from here.

About 10km of ground covered with around 600m of steep, technical terrain mixed in. Along with harness and helmet, we used via ferrata lanyards, 30m of single rope, and a couple of 120cm slings on HMS screwgates. This is a minimum requirement for a roped party. A 60m rope would give the option of taking the abseil descent, or simply making retreat easier.

This route along with many others will feature in our forthcoming book 'Costa Blanca Mountain Adventures' (Cicerone) and this will be available from September 2022 :-)

Thanks for reading
Mark

#mountain-skills-days-ponoch-costa-blanca

Kate nearing the top of the scrambling terrain

#ponoch-summit-mountain-skills-costa-blanca

The vast plateau of Ponoch with the summit in the distance

Ponoch - Big wall climbing

21/12/2021

#ponoch-rock-climbing-costa-blanca

The huge Sector Central face of Ponoch

Today we went for a big adventure on the largest crag in the region of Costa Blanca. Although not quite as high or as well known as neighbouring Puig Campana, this is without doubt the most impressive lump of rock in the region. Some routes are 500m+ and all are demanding undertakings, typically with big run-outs and hard climbing.

Having previously climbed the big classic 'Via Valencianos' E1/6a I was keen for more of what Ponoch has to offer but preferred a sport route to ease route finding. When I say 'sport route' what I mean is there are very sparingly placed bolts and equipped belays. That's to be expected on a crag as big as this.
So it was decided we would climb 'Viaje Espacial' a 6a/E1 with the final pitches having either no or very limited fixed gear. We didn't intend to bother with these pitches, but took a trad rack just in case.

Pitch 1 is the same as Valencianos so I knew this one but hadn't led it. I remember it having an interesting move about half way up. This took some working out but once beyond this it was a breeze to the belay on a massive ledge. A short walk right brought us to the base of the next pitch, also a 6a and fairly long at 45m. It tackled a wall directly and felt quite steady.
Pitch 3 headed rightwards and although was a lower grade pitch (5) it felt just as difficult, in fact all pitches felt pretty equal in terms of difficulty. A small belay ledge was reached and by now I was getting really hot from the exertion. I should have taken some time out for food and drink but for some reason decided not to. That was a mistake.

Pitch 4 was simply magnificent giving some of the best climbing I've done in quite some time. Very steep at times and always super exposed. However, by the time I reached the next belay ledge I was feeling wasted and knew I was becoming dehydrated and needed to act. So after a quick re-fuelling break we took the decision to head back down. We were only 1 pitch short of the top but it would have been foolish to continue. Thankfully I soon started to feel much better (top tip, always carry a Go Gel or similar with you) which was helpful as the abseil descent gave us some problem solving to deal with.

We used 2 guidebooks to get information about the route. Firstly the Rockfax Costa Blanca and this was complimented by the local guide 'Ponotx' by Manuel Bernabeu. If wanting to explore this mountain more, it is the local guide you'll be needing, it offers 100 routes, all are full days out. All will be memorable.

There are a few more routes on here I have my eye on, hopefully another will get ticked on this visit so watch this space. Back to some single pitch sport climbing tomorrow :-)

Thanks for reading and thanks to Kim for coming on this adventure with me.

Mark

#climbing-course-ambleside-lake-district

Pitch 4 - this gave some incredible climbing

#el-frare-ponoch-climbing-costa-blanca

The fin of Agulla del Flare

#rock-climbing-course-lake-district-viaje-espacial-ponoch

Route name scratched at the top of pitch 1

#viaje-espacial-ponoch-topo

Topo of the route from the local guide by Manuel Bernabeu. Image copywright - Manuel Bernabeu

Mountaineering day on Ponoch

19/2/2020

#ponoch-via-ferrata

The huge face of Ponoch

After a day of single pitch lead climbing yesterday, Jo & Michelle were keen for bigger adventures today. So we headed to the mighty Ponoch (Monte Ponoig) to sample the via ferrata there.

Despite the weather looking slightly unsettled, the car park was fairly busy and one other team had the same objective in mind.

We set off at quite a pace, so gained height and the base of the route very rapidly. After a briefing on kit usage and safety procedures, we set off up the 'iron way'. It is steep and unrelenting from the start, but with good technique there is no need for this to feel overly strenuous.
We soon gained ground over the other team, so was nice for all to have plenty of space. Lots of photo time for Michelle.

Our aim had been to then continue from the top to include the brilliant scramble on to the summit plateau. Alas, rain and thick cloud put a dampener on this and we called it a day. Making our way over to the abseil stations. Stacked abseils all the way for added safety, we whizzed back down to base. Lunch under these awesome walls before a gentle walk back to base.
After tea and coffee back at base, it was back out for some late afternoon sunshine. Trail running this time. Just a short one at about 6km, but enough given what we had already achieved.

A grand day out, thanks to Jo & Michelle.

Mark

#outdoor-activities-costa-blanca

About to set off on the Via Ferrata (photo courtesy of Michelle)

#via-ferrata-costa-blanca

A short traverse section part way up

Mountaineering on Ponoch

22/10/2019

#ponoch-via-ferrata-costa-blanca

Moonrise over Ponoch

Many still consider the Costa Blanca to be a mix of seaside resorts and for climbers at least, the home to many excellent sport climbing crags. Both are true, the region is blessed with many good resorts full of wonderful beaches and yes the sport climbing here does seem almost endless. And we are regularly discovering more bolted routes and whole crags under development, so there's lots more to come, meaning lots more to come back for.

But there is more....so much more!

Look away from the roadside bolted crags, turn your heads to the mountains and see a whole new world of possibility. Two of the biggest crags in the region - Ponoch and Puig Campana - actually have their very own guidebooks, and justifiably so, such is the extent of routes.
Whilst we can't claim to know every route on these massive faces, we do know. some of the classic lines on both and importantly, we know how to safely get off these mountains, which isn't as easy as many may think!

Last week we had the pleasure of showing 3 visiting climbers: Janine; Paul; and Emma around the mighty Ponoch. Whilst all were competent sport and trad climbers, they considered a guide being a worthwhile investment for a big day on the Ponoch. And as we start with a Via Ferrata, they also don't need to worry about having their own lanyards, as we provide these. The ferrata section allows for rapid progress up the mountain and we gained the top of this within the hour. A rest followed whilst we discussed the ridge scramble ahead of us. Paul decided to opt out and instead enjoy a good book whilst sunbathing, and why not!
Janine and Emma were super keen for the scramble, so we sorted the rope and set off, initially along a narrow ridge which soon becomes a buttress. The views and situations are truly phenomenal on this route and we took our time in order to fully appreciate this.
Once at the top, a series of abseils followed by a scree run brought us back to Paul and his book. We all then continued down to the next series of abseils to reach the base of the mountain.

As with so many things, once the procedure is know and route logged, this is all straightforward, but for a first time visitor to this mountain, trying to find all these abseils would be quite daunting. Same goes for the big routes on Puig Campana. It's not so much the reaching the top that's difficult, it's returning to base safely. That's where we can help!

A grand day out in the sun, thanks to Janine, Paul, and Emma.

Mark

#via-ferrata-ponoch-costa-blanca

Enjoying the via ferrata section

#mountaineering-costa-blanca-spain

Emma nearing the top of the scramble

Back in the Costa Blanca - 2019 season

12/10/2019

#mountaineering-and-climbing-costa-blanca

Michael enjoy some wild exposure high up on Ponoch

It's been just over a week since arriving back out in Spain and the 'winter' season has already started, with loads going on.

Now I say winter, but recent temperatures have been very summer like, and often over 30C during the middle of the day. We have been starting activities early as a result. The weather is cooling off a little now though, so normal service can be resumed.

Already a couple of adventures on the massive crag of Ponoch, arguably the most impressive face of rock in the region. First of was a solo via ferrata / scramble / run for me. And a few days later back again with Michael, who had previously done the via ferrata but not the scramble. And like many others who venture onto this extensive face, found the descent difficult to locate, so he was keen to know more. And being a seasoned mountaineer, Michael obviously wanted to complete the scramble up to the plateau too, well why not.
We cruised up all of it, taking a little breather before then beginning the descent, this involves 2 abseils, a scree run, some scrambling, and 2 more abseils. So plenty to keep the mind and body occupied.
Even though we had set out early, the heat of the day was taking its toll on us and we were both feeling somewhat sun kissed on the final descent.
Looking back up at that massive crag and following our route up to the plateau confirmed it was very much worth all the sweat (and there was lots)!
Such a brilliant mountaineering day out.

If considering attempting this route, as an absolute minimum a 60m rope is required for the abseils. Standard VF kit. For the scramble it's possible to use direct belays as and when required, so no nuts/cams needed, but bear in mind the rock is very sharp and can quickly take a toll on your lovely sport climbing rope!!

We've also had the pleasure of welcoming Andi, Harriet, and Kerry to the Costa Blanca. Andi has visited a few times already and was keen to show friends how much fun can be had here.

We kicked off with a visit to Cala Testos. Yes it's a beach, but no ordinary beach. There is a technical descent to access this beautiful little cove. After some abseil practice, a swim, some climbing to get back out. We proceeded to a nearby beach bar for welcome refreshments before exploring some of the nearby sea caves.
Next up for the girls was a day by the pool here at Atalaya. A relaxing day before we head out to Sierra de Toix for some climbing.
Starting early we managed to keep in the cool of the shade for a few hours and enjoy the wonderful Limestone routes at Toix far Oeste. By early afternoon it was time for a cool off. So the girls aimed for the nearby beaches of Mascarat.

To round the activities off, we had a walk to the Cova del Dalt and up to Es Crestall. The Cova is hugely impressive and so easy to reach. Back in the UK this would be mobbed with visitors, here it's usually empty, as it was today. Summit views were spectacular too, with Mallarda de Llop and Aitana both clearly visible and some puffy clouds around to add atmosphere.
It was more pool action back at the villa and a night out in nearby Denia for the girls, followed by more night-time pool fun and games. Well why not, it's what holidays are for right.

A big thanks to Andi, Kerry, Harriet, and Michael - it's been a pleasure and a privilege.

Mark

#guided-walks-costa-blanca

Summit of Es Crestall, with Mallada de Llop and Aitana in the background

#walking-holiday-spain

Cala Moraig

#guided-walking-costa-blanca

After a hot day in the mountains, this is the perfect welcome home

#walking-holiday-costa-blanca

Montgo dominates over Jesus Pobre

Mountaineering day - Ponoch - Costa Blanca

25/2/2019

#adventure-days-ponoch

Enjoying superb scrambling high on Ponoch

Yesterday we were back enjoying the amazing atmosphere of Ponoch. This giant of a mountain provides some of the most committing and challenging climbs in the region, with all being long and even the 'easy' climbs weighing it at E1!!

For those not looking for super long rock climbs, there is an alternative, and it's every bit as good. To start we followed the Via Ferrata, this is about 250m of vertical ascent and pretty steep. For many this is enough and the nearby and well equipped abseil stations provide a quick and straightforward way down. But for anyone looking for a bit more adventure, mixed in with route finding fun, there is a grade 3 scramble weaving a way up onto the summit plateau.

We tackled this, picking our way through the rocky terrain, exploring our route options as we go and I was leaving route finding to Jo and Steve, as they'd never been up here before. The crux lies in the upper section and is equipped with a fixed rope, but it does still feel like grade 3 scrambling and the exposure is massive.

Topping out onto the plateau just left us with an easy walk over to the abseil station that links up with the lower abseils. Again, Steve was keen to take charge of the abseils, which was rather nice.

A grand day out with lovely people and even better scenery than I'd remembered.

Thanks to Jo & Steve

Mark

#rock-climbing-course-lake-district

On the initial ridge of the Ponoch scramble

#climbing-ponoch-costa-blanca

Nearing the top, with the summit plateau now nearby

Via Valencianos, Ponoch

22/2/2019

#trad-climbing-ponoch-costa-blanca

The huge south face of Ponoch. Home to some of the longest and most demanding climbing in the region

For years now we've had a big climbing route on the mighty Ponoch in our sights, on our wish list. But it kept evading us, the time just wasn't right, until this week.

After some friends climbed the route a couple of weeks back, my enthusiasm suddenly gathered momentum for the route, and for a massive adventure. Thankfully another climbing friend was also very keen on the route and had also had it on his 'to-do' list for some years. A plan was hatched and the excitement began. Whilst we have both climbed big routes before, this certainly felt (to me at least) like a step up from previous adventures on Puig Campana, in fact I'd say it almost makes the Puig Campana feel tame!!

The route we had in mind, Via Valencianos, is a 500 metre E1 / 6a trad climb. There would be some easy pitches, even some walking, but there would also be some tough climbing and route finding on such a massive piece of rock was always going to be the biggest challenge. Getting that wrong up there would be serious and we both stayed completely focused the whole time.

Setting off from the car park at around 9.15am on a sunny morning all was looking well. The first few pitches went smoothly too, all was looking rosy. Somewhere on pitch 4 things started to fall apart a little. We were uncertain of the route, things were suddenly not obvious, and the climbing was a little bit tougher than we were expecting. We both clearly had doubts about what to do next.

Do we continue or retreat whilst we still can?
Whilst it was Neil leading this pitch, this was a discussion we were both totally involved in, we were in this together and had lots to consider, including our safety. What I took away from the discussions we had at that time, is the importance to support each other and to remain flexible regarding outcomes and objectives. Getting to the top is optional, returning to base is mandatory. We were both on this wavelength and that is a good feeling.

It was decided to continue and thankfully things soon improved and we were back on track, phew! The first of the crux pitches lay straight ahead of us and looked formidable. A huge traverse across a smooth shield of limestone, this was going to be amazing and I couldn't wait, I think Neil felt the same.
Neil led this pitch, cruising across with seemingly little effort. I thoroughly enjoyed the pitch too and led through up the next pitch, which was easier but less well protected and with plenty of loose rock, so felt scary. More good climbing and amazing positions followed as well as a couple of walking pitches, these linked the good bits of rock.

Neil also led the upper crux pitch, this was the hardest technical climbing on the route and even though it had some fixed protection, it felt like E1 to us. I had the pleasure of leading the final pitch up to the summit plateau. Whilst this pitch had some loose rock again, it was enjoyable and full of interest. Topping out was a very fine feeling indeed and we were both elated.

We had a pretty good idea where to aim for to find the initial abseil station to start our descent and indeed found this within just a few minutes. A 40m abseil took to to scree above the top of the via ferrata and we quickly descended to the next abseil station to take us down to the base of the mountain.

Just under 9 hours from start to finish. That was without rushing the route, but being efficient and keeping breaks and change-overs to a minimum. This felt a pretty good time for such a long and intricate route.

A couple of beers in our local bar that evening tasted ever so good :-)

Big thanks to Neil for climbing this with me, good company and climbing the whole way.

Mark

#guided-climbing-costa-blanca

High up on the climb

#costa-blanca-climbing-course

On our way to the abseil station and our return to base

Multi-activity - Costa Blanca

23/11/2018

#rockclimbingholidaycostablanca

Part of the Toix ridge with El Penon as backdrop

Nearing the end of their week here and I think now feeling suitably 'refreshed', Allan & Kim may have experienced fairly mixed weather, but there's been plenty of T-shirt and shades time and we've managed to get out loads :-)

An afternoon at Toix far Oeste kick-started the week, getting a feel for the sharp Limestone of Costa Blanca and things to come. Next up was the mighty Ponoch, climbing its Via Ferrata, enjoying amazing views over to the Bernia ridge then abseiling back down. Coffee and cake treats at Coll de Rates on the way home rounded off another fine day.

Ridge scrambling was next up. The Toix Integral. Starting on the Toix Este crags we climbed a 130m route before joining the narrow crest up to the Mirador in time for lunch. A short walk led us to the main Toix crags with 3 pitches taking us up to the ridge and 2 pitches along the knife edge crest! Easy, but exposed scrambling remains. Happy faces all round :-)

Another day of contrast coming up. We climbed Sonjannika on the Morro Falqui sea cliffs. This 180m route up the magnificent south face is indeed a stunning line, weaving its way up some Improbable terrain. We went for an alternate finish this time, scrambling along ledges to reach the super fun 'Coming out' route as our way of topping out.

A fun and diverse week, now for some rest.....

Mark

#rockclimbingnearcalpe

Toix ridge looking towards Bernia

#viaferratacostablanca

Ponoch via ferrata

#guidedrockclimbingcostablanca

Pitch 3 of Sonjannika, Morro Falqui

Ponoch via ferrata

10/11/2018

#viaferrataguidecostablanca

Enjoying the Ponoch via ferrata

Yesterday we had the pleasure of introducing Julio, Jenny, and Jackie to the delights of Via Ferrata. For this we went to the magnificent south face of Ponoch / Ponoig, which lies a short way inland from the bustling tourist resort of Benidorm.

The amount of rock on Ponoch is unbelievable, as is the scale.This means that few venture onto the epic climbs weaving up the crag. For most these are all day routes, arduous, and come with plenty of adventure! To the right of the crag is a via ferrata, one of the finest in the region. It allows access to this impressive crag without the big commitment of the trad routes. Roughly following the line of an old E1 trad route, it covers plenty of steep terrain and the exposure is completely wild, but it's all very fast.

After gearing up, we enjoyed an easy approach walk of only about 20 minutes, a blast up the route followed by some scrambling down to reach the abseil station. 2 abseils, each of no more than 30m and touchdown back at the base of the crag. Easy walking leads back to the parking area. A leisurely 4 hours, including plenty of breaks, photos stops, and simply enjoying the views.

Big thanks to Julio, Jenny, and Jackie. Also to Kate for helping.

Mark

#costablancaviaferrata

Almost at the top

#viaferratacostablanca

And now for the descent :-)

#ponochviaferrataspain

The enormous south face of Ponoch

Multi-activity week - Costa Blanca

4/11/2017

#stackedabseilcostablanca

Jenni, Francie, and Lauren about to abseil after the Ponoch Via Ferrata

It's been a hectic and hugely fun week for us here. We welcomed back the Hewett family and friends for multi-activities and adventures and all things rock in Costa Blanca :-)
Now with 2 small babies, activities were going to need some flexibility from all sides, so I had lots of plan b's (even more than usual) this week.

As a gentle warm up we all enjoyed a walk to Les Arcs, to see the dramatic rock arches above Castell de Castells. This was followed with an afternoon of Rock climbing at the Viudes crag near Tarbena, which we had all to ourselves.

For Monday things got a bit more exciting, with a descent of the Barranco del Pas Tancat, near Bolulla. Having only fairly recently discovered this amazing place I was keen to share the experience with others and knew it would be enjoyed by the team. To allow for childcare to work out we ran 2 trips during the day so everyone got to experience the canyon.

Tuesday was to be an adventure day on the mighty Ponoch. We scaled the mountain using the in-situ Via Ferrata to quickly and easily gain height. This activity can be enjoyed by anybody who is fit and has a head for heights. It's a lot of fun (see the photos) and has a fast pace to it.

Wednesday was spent at the nearby crag of Alcalali. This crag typifies Costa Blanca sport climbing, with well bolted, top quality climbs looking out over a stunning valley and within 5 minutes of the car park. Good climbing progression shown by all and Edd giving us a finale on a long and sustained 6c, top effort!

Thursday saw a last minute change of plan as 2 more friends joined the group. Jenni & Francie were keen to have an adventure rather than go rock climbing with the others. So after some discussion and along with Lauren too, 4 of us headed back to the Ponoch Via Ferrata to scale this huge mountain. Smiles all round at the top, well done all.

Friday has arrived all too quickly and the last day of their holiday :-(
So let's make the most of it and get back out on the rock. This time to another fairly newly developed sport climbing venue near Gandia. Ultra sharp rock, closely spaced bolts, sun and shade, and superb views over Orange groves to the mountains beyond, there's a lot going for this place. Everyone excelled, with some impressive leads, especially so from Jules and Charlie. The babies were able to play in the shelter of a nearby cave (it was a very hot day), so enjoyed shade and cooler temps as well as watching some impressive locals on the super steep routes going through the roofs!!

Friday night is music night at Emilios Bar here in Llosa de Camacho, and the fantastic Gas Monkeys were playing tonight. Really good music until way passed my bed time. The early morning flight didn't seem to deter anyone from keeping the barman company until rather later ;-)

Sad to be saying goodbye to these beautiful people once again. Safe travels all, and especially so for Edd & Charlie who set sail for the Falkland Islands in a few days time!

Mark & Kate

Maybe you're looking for an activity week and would like to get off the beaten track. Or want to escape the UK winter and find warm sunshine. If so, get in touch and let us take you on some adventures

#canyoningnearbenidorm

Abseil tuition in the Barranco del Pas Tancat

#barrancodelpastancat

Another long abseil in the canyon

#canyoningcostablanca

The afternoon team enjoying the canyon

#barrancodelpastancat_costablanca

Amazing surroundings whilst in the canyon

#viaferrataactivitiesnearbenidorm

Kim introducing the Ponoch Via Ferrata

#viaferratacostablanca

Enjoying the mountains on Ponoch Via Ferrata

#costablancaviaferrata

Gen cruising up the Ferrata

#sportclimbingalcalali

Charlie taking a rest in the cave

#sportclimbingcostablanca

Enjoying a peaceful day at the crag. Great climbing on super sharp and grippy Limestone

#rockclimbingnearbenidorm

Viudes crag near Tarbena. Quality routes in a beautiful setting rising above the Almond grove