A few days ago we went for an explore inland from Gandia, to the mountain of Penyalba. Not only is this a shapely peak, it also harbours a wonderful outcrop of limestone that goes by the same name.
I'd known about this venue for some time now but hadn't got around to visiting until now. Wow it was worth the wait. This is a huge crag set high on the mountain, with routes that finish on the summit, and because of the 30+ minute approach walk the place was deserted and probably always is. This is a shame as the place is magnificent and the climbing we sampled lived up to the location.
The best climb of the day was a 3 pitch 6a which offered continually varied climbing including slabs, cracks, a roof, a small traverse, and an open chimney. So lots of techniques required to see us through.
The weather whilst on the climb had been quite benign, but once up on the plateau that all changed. We were constantly buffeted by gale force winds that threatened to blow us back down the crag. At times we needed 4 points of contact to be safe. It was more like a Cairngorm wind than anything associated with Southern Spain.
As far as we are aware there is no guidebook currently covering this crag. However there are online topos available here:
More recently we discovered another newly equipped climb in the Gandia area. A 7 pitch mountaineering route. This deserves its own entry so keep checking back to find out more.
Thanks for reading