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Multi-pitch rock climbing and a day of roped scrambling - fun times

17/6/2015

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Rock-scrambling-Lake-District
On Sunday I had the pleasure of a morning with Andzelika & Eugene from Ulverston. We've now climbed together a few times, but so far this has always been in the Langdale valley. Eager to show off more fine climbing venues in the Lakes and somewhere a little closer to Ulverston, I chose Wallowbarrow crag in the Duddon valley.

A multi-pitch route of 'vdiff' standard was chosen, 4 pitches in length and providing excellent and varied climbing the whole way. Trinity Slabs was to be their second multi-pitch route to date (the first being Middlefell Buttress in Langdale) and I think the exposure and moves were thoroughly enjoyed. It's always a fine achievement to arrive at the top of a long climb, and today was no exception.
As well as enjoying the climb, we took the time to practice belaying, look at various anchor set-ups, and chat about other safety considerations. Climbing in 'series' allows for a more relaxing time, less rope management problems, and more time for teaching skills to each climber.
All in all, a grand morning, and it stayed dry!


Rock-climbing-guide-Lake-District

Monday was spent working on CPD, and specifically Rock Scrambling skills and techniques when moving as a team of 3.
So along with Kristina (who was looking for a good mountain day out), and Si (who wanted to recce the routes we were about to do), I headed out into Langdale and Middlefell Buttress followed by Crescent Climb on Pavey Ark.

My motivation being the ability to try out new techniques and further consolidate existing skills and have direct feedback on a continual basis.
Middlefell went very well and we made a rapid ascent, even the final steep wall proving quick an easy, clearly we were all moving well today.
So far we had looked at distance between the two seconds, length of an isolation loop for the person in the middle of the rope, stance management, belay methods, and various ways of attaching scramblers to the anchor system, phew!

Once clear of the top of the crag we un-roped and moved quickly to Pavey Ark, where the next chapter of scrambling would begin. There were already climbers on a neighbouring route (Crescent Slabs) ,but this was unlikely to effect us. After a brief rest we roped up again and I set off up this 'Moderate' climb / scramble. The aim initially was to find a belay within about 25m of the start. Thankfully this was duly found, an excellent spike, although slightly shallow, the rock was totally sound and a downward force would keep a sling firmly in place. A very good start to the route.

Belaying with an Italian Hitch, it's easy to quickly tie off when the first scrambler arrives, thus leaving both hands free to manage the rope for the second climber. Sometimes I was able to use a counter-balance to secure Si & Kristina, other times clove hitches were more appropriate, and the immediate feedback from both was invaluable.

We hit a minor traffic jam on the traverse pitch (the other climbers we'd seen earlier had arrived on the traverse at the same time as we did), so a little patience was called for, as well as some good humoured banter.
The final pitch of this route is very straightforward, if exposed, scrambling up grassy slopes to reach Jacks Rake. From here we un-roped and made our way down the Rake and into the valley.
A very good day out, thanks both. Feedback was 'Nice and slick' - splendid.


Multi-pitch-rock-climbing-Langdale

And yesterday was back onto rock climbing once more. This time White Ghyll.
Jane being a very experienced climber, we were alternate leading the pitches of Slab Routes 1 & 2. These give some very interesting climbing on excellent rock. Protection is adequate but never overly generous, this helps keep the mind well focused on the task.
Climbing in this way is very efficient, so we soon had the first route ticked and were back at the crag base in time for an early lunch.
Then it was onto the second route. Although described as a 3 pitch route, there are definitely 4 if using a single rope as we were. The climbing wanders around quite a lot in the early pitches, but this brings with it some amazing positions. The upper sections are quite straight and it's more a case of head towards the sky style climbing, picking what looks best along the way.
We briefly touched on some skills along the way, but mostly today was about time on rock, enjoying brilliant Lakeland rock. White Ghyll delivers. 


Thanks to Jane, Kristina, Si, Andzelika, and Eugeniusz
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Multi-pitch climbing in Langdale: 11th & 12th March 2014

14/9/2014

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Picture
This week it has been mostly very sunny indeed. And not wanting to miss out on an opportunity, we've been out making the most of it.

I think it's reasonable to say that the Lake District has some of the finest climbing in the country, and Langdale is definitely a jewel of Lakeland climbing, offering so much variety and mostly on South or South-west facing crags.

Over the last couple of days we've been to Upper Scout crag, White Ghyll crag, and Gimmer crag.

All excellent venues in their own right, each with a variety of grades to choose from.

Upper Scout is very easy to access, being only about 15 minutes from the road, the routes are friendly and offer plentiful protection for the lead climber. We climbed two routes here.

White Ghyll is just around the corner from Upper Scout, but could not be more different. A steep and imposing place with an atmosphere that can sometimes be quite gripping. This is a crag to visit when you want full value from your climbing day as it's likely at some point during the day it will feel intimidating. The routes are mostly fabulous and on excellent rock, again the protection is usually very good where it's needed most.

Gimmer crag is on a whole new level. Best crag in Langdale / best crag in the Lakes / best crag in the UK? It's certainly high on the list. Reasons for this are its amazing position high above the valley (this helps keep it quiet) providing beautiful views of the valley and to the Coniston fells. A good spread of grades means there's something for everyone here. The rock is extremely high quality, the routes are almost all brilliant, and there's in-situ abseil stations making multiple routes far more feasible. I think the best approach to this crag is to firstly climb Middlefell Buttress on Raven crag, this takes the toil out of gaining height and is a good route in its own right. From the top of here it's only about 20 minutes to the crag.
We climbed a 'classic rock' route today called 'Bracket & Slab'. We split this into about 5 pitches, each gave unique challenges and provided excellent climbing, all the belay ledges were large and comfortable too making for a very pleasant excursion.

If you haven't yet tried any of these crags, I can highly recommend them, and if you'd like a guide for your climb, do give us a call.

Let's all hope for a long hot summer.


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