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The freedom of the mountains

24/11/2021

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#langdale-pikes-guided-walks-lake-district
The dome of Pike O'Stickle bathing in sunshine
In this post you'll see a series of blue sky, sunny day photos taken during a recent day out mountaineering in the Langdale valley. Well, high above the Langdale valley to be precise.

Being amongst the Lakeland mountains in good company and on a sunny day is pretty hard to beat.
It got me thinking, why is it hard to beat and what do the mountains bring to the party?

Immovable lumps of solid rock are not to everyones taste, but to most of us they bring a sense of scale and help us place ourselves in the world. To a climber, these lumps of rock are our road, the pathway to and of adventure. Touching rock can bring a smile, it always makes me smile that's for sure.

When these lumps are huge slabs forming mountains of grandeur, it's hard not to be impressed by their scale and how they make us feel so small and insignificant. We are by the way.

And for all we give the mountains nothing, how can we. They can bring us so much joy.

Freedom to move over the wild terrain, curling our fingertips over a crimp of rock and feeling the crystals gently pierce our skin as the grip tightens. Pulling up on the hold and moving ever upwards, checking the solidity of the next hold before committing weight and going again, in our skyward quest.

Energy is burned rapidly, our hearts pump life blood around us allowing muscles to be finely controlled, balancing neatly on small footholds whilst our brain computes the next move and plans the route in detail. Of all the sports and activities I do and have done, climbing and mountaineering are the most absorbing. The benefit of this is it allows us to switch off from whatever else is happening in life and the world. This is probably more important than ever in these troubled times.

With this energy of movement comes risk and adrenaline. Mountaineering and climbing are inherently dangerous activities, there's no getting away from that. Whether you are a first timer, super experienced, or choosing to hire a guide. All methods involve risk to some degree. The benefits of hiring a guide are they will have considered carefully the risks and mitigated to help reduce them. But to take away the risk entirely would be to take away the adrenaline, to sanitise the experience, to make it something it isn't.
Remember, it is to the mountains we run to escape conformity, to leave the day to day life behind and breathe fresh air in wide open spaces and to do so without constraint. They are a place to explore, to be free, and to excite us, sometimes to surprise us. As humans we need this to thrive. Keep on exploring........

On Monday I was out in Langdale with Carly. We first met on a Lakes 3000's which Carly flew around in a rapid time even though we chose some very long and complex routes. It was clear from early on the mountains were giving her great happiness and this is always wonderful to see. I suggested some future visits with more rocky terrain as a theme and in the summer we managed to fit in some climbing in the Borrowdale valley. A sunny afternoon allowed us 2 routes on Shepherds crag before the rains came just as we finished. Good timing overall. But the plan for that day had been a longer, mountaineering route, so that came this week. And what a day.

With a northerly airflow cooling the air to a Baltic level, it had to be a sunny venue, so Langdale came up trumps there. We began with Middlefell Buttress. The rock was actually warm and utterly glorious to climb on. The skin looked like it had been painted a vivid blue, it really was quite surreal. We scrambled up the continuation and on towards Thorn crag, turning left here onto the Gimmer path. Sadly it felt too cold for Gimmer, but Loft crag was going to be just fine. We followed a series of buttresses, all of perfectly formed Igneous rock. This led us to the summit crag, a steep wall of around 20m and we followed a groove of immaculate rock. Still the rock was warm to the touch.

A short walk towards Pike O'Stickle brought us to the top of The Great Stone Chute. We descended this as far as the stone axe factory (used as a base during Neolithic times). Our next route started opposite this.
Merlin Slab - this follows a groove up to a wet slab, crosses the wet slab to reach a grass ledge. The wet slab was easy but freezing cold due to its wetness. From the grass ledge we took a direct line up a steep crack, this was very exciting. Above us loomed a flying arete and this looked truly magnificent. It didn't disappoint. The exposure was a delight as to look back down the arete took in the whole of the Langdale valley hundreds of metres below. The rock still felt phenomenal under the skin, although more care was needed as there was no shortage of loose material. Just how mountaineering should be, a bit unpredictable.

The temperature began to dip as the afternoon wore on and we made the call to begin our descent from here rather than trying to squeeze in another route. Walking back into the valley on a big blue sky day having spent so much time on rock brings a big dose of the smiles for me. It is simply unbeatable.

A grand day out on rock, thanks to Carly for joining me and good banter throughout :-)

Winter is now so close and I'll be away for a while, searching for warmer rocks to play on. But spring is nearer than we realise. If wanting a day in the mountains, on rocky terrain on hiking, please do get in touch. We'd be very happy to help

Thanks for reading

Mark  

​
#mountaineering-in-langdale-lake-district
On the upper arete of Merlin Slab
#guided-rock-climbing-near-ambleside
Crossing 'The wet slab' of Merlin Slab
#stone-axe-factory-langdale-guided-walks
Descending The Great Stone Chute
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Rock climbing days over summer

21/8/2021

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#mountain-art-in-the-lake-district
So who knows where this is?
It seems like this summer has been mostly spent in gorges and canyons. But there have been a fair few days out on the crags too. Here are a few photos of some recent days out on the high mountain crags, climbing classic mountaineering routes on warm sunny days. Some of those days were so warm there was swimming involved!!

Tania and Tereza joined us for there introduction to outdoor rock climbing. The brief being an exciting mountain route, but not too difficult. We made our way into Comb Gill to tackle the long line of Corvus on Raven crag. A few parties were ahead of us, but they all moved fast. We cruised up, gaining height with ease and excitement. I recognised a voice from below and noticed a friend at the base of the crag, Mike too was out in search of shade on this blisteringly hot day.

We stopped for lunch just before tackling the famous 'hand traverse' pitch. This is what makes Corvus stand out as a brilliant route.  

There have also been forays to the magnificent Dow Crag. This place never disappoints. The atmosphere, the backdrop, the enticing waters of Goats Water far below. Oh, and the rock. We've ticked Giants Crawl and C Ordinary a few times over the summer and always enjoyed these classics. A few weeks ago I was up there with Jo and we enjoyed a refreshing swim in Goats Water after our climbing day. Flippin' fantastic.

Adventure and mountain days are our speciality and we know the Lakes intimately for climbing, scrambling, mountaineering, fell running, walking, and swimming. Let us know if we can help plan the perfect day for you.

Thanks to everyone who has joined us so far this summer and made it fantastic :-)

Mark

#corvus-raven-crag-borrowdale-classic-rock
Tania and Tereza making light work of the wonderful traverse pitch on Corvus
#dow-crag-and-goats-water-climbing
I think this chap is on Leopards Crawl (HVS). I brilliant route with a tough and committing first pitch
#giants-crawl-dow-crag-classic-rock-climbing
Jo on the 1st pitch of Giants Crawl - a true classic and utterly brilliant mountaineering route
#dow-crag-classic-rock-climbing
A cooling swim in Goats Water after climbing on Dow
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On rock from the valley floor to the summits: A return to rock

16/5/2020

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#mountain-activities-lake-district
Enjoying the wonderful rock on Thorn Crag, Langdale
Yesterday we ventured back out onto rock for the first time since lockdown. This was a wonderful moment, there's no doubt about it. The day was chilly so the plan was to stay on easy terrain and keep moving to keep warm.
So for starters it was the Langdale classic 'Middlefell Buttress'. We climbed this in short pitches so we were both able to be moving most of the time. At the top of the route Kate couldn't find her mobile and after a good search, concluded she must have dropped it on the ledge below! I set up an abseil to go and have a look. Lots of searching later and I gave up, returning to Kate her face said it all. It had been hiding in her pocket the whole time :-)
So onwards we went, finishing this section with an ascent of Curtain Wall followed by some easy scrambling to reach the path towards the Langdale Pikes and our next route.

Thorn crag was next up. A grade 1 scramble of really high quality gave us loads of fun in increasingly great conditions.
By the time we reached the top we were in T-shirts and sunbathing, winner.

The descent path lies near the summit and this allows a swift descent back to the valley, stopping off to wash our hands in the cascading waters of the Dungeon Ghyll.

This route is one of many mountaineering style link-ups in the Langdale valley, we know loads of them. If this could be what you're looking for and want to make sure you make the most of your time here in the Lake District, please get in touch and we'll put a plan together just for you.

Subject to government restrictions, we hope to be offering activity days again by the beginning of June. Number of participants may be limited, but we often operate a 1:1 ratio anyway, so not much change there.

Thanks for reading

Mark & Kate 


#guided-climbing-lake-district
Raven crag, Langdale
#rock-climbing-langdale-lake-district
Kate nearing the top of Middlefell Buttress
#rock-climbing-course-lake-district
Post abseil for a mobile phone retrieval!
#rock-climbing-course-ambleside
Taking precautions in a Covid world. A thorough wash in flowing the stream
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Pinnacle Ridge, St. Sunday Crag

7/8/2019

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#mountaineering-lake-district
Crossing the pinnacles
Today we've been out with father and son team Andrew and Toby. Both keen walkers and scramblers wanting to push into the next level.
Pinnacle Ridge on St. Sunday crag was the obvious choice and thankfully we had weather to compliment the route. After a rapid blast up to the base of the route, I tried to slow things down so the guys could take their time and enjoy the splendid atmosphere. They were both okay with the slight change in tempo, maybe they even enjoyed the short rests at belay ledges :-)
Still, we did seem to fly up the route, all of which was perfectly dry and wonderfully rough to the touch. The wind speed increased as we gained height and jackets were on all the way, but it wasn't cold, in fact, the temperature was pretty close to perfect for a high energy day. It was the wind which kept us from visiting the actual summit, as by this time our stomaches were reminding us it was beyond lunchtime and we needed some shelter before stopping.

Plenty of smiles all the way up, from all of us. Plenty of sunshine too, the shades were on most of the way :-)

Big thanks to Andrew and Toby

Mark

#pinnacle-ridge-lake-district
Above the crux
#helvellyn-striding-edge
Views over to Helvellyn
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Training for bigger mountains

31/5/2019

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#alpine-training-lake-district
Tracy & Vic on a comfy belay ledge, Middlefell Buttress
This last couple of days I've been joined by Tracy and Vic who were wanting to spend time on scrambles and easier climbs so they could get more comfortable with exposure. This is in preparation for a variety of trips they have planned to the Alps and maybe beyond.

We started off with a grade 2 scramble, this quickly moved up a gear to a 'Diff' rock climb in Langdale. These two routes gave plentiful supply of exposed terrain and plenty of technical challenge whilst moving over the rock.

With a damp and windy day forecast for the next day, we decided to scramble rather than try more difficult rock climbs.
And what better for getting used to exposed terrain than the 'Alpinesque' Pinnacle Ridge on St. Sunday crag. This uber classic really does take some beating, and with some wild weather blowing through the atmosphere was simply magnificent.
Yes we all got thoroughly soaked, but there were big smiles all round. Lots of time spent in the mountains climbing and scrambling, sharing experiences and stories, and keeping fit.

Big thanks to Tracy and Vic, some of the photo credits go to them too.

Mark

#pinnacle-ridge-lake-district
#outdoor-activities-ambleside
Tackling the crux of Pinnacle ridge - it was a damp ascent!
#mountain-guide-lake-district
A rare shot of me - on Pinnacle ridge
#mountain-activities-lake-district
Enjoying dry rock on Middlefell Buttress
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Alpine training days - Lake District

19/7/2017

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#alpine-training_and_preparation_days_lake_district
Gav powering up C Ordinary route
Yesterday we were yet again under big blue skies here in the Lakes. Temperatures soared into the high 20C's adding to this 'getting back on rock and Alpine / Dolomites training day' for Gav.
We've climbed together for a few years now, but it has been a while since our last trip out and today Gav was keen to keep things easy and focus on mileage, partly as preparation for a forthcoming trip to the Dolomites.
 
We began with C Ordinary route on Dow crag. The rock was delightfully warm and completely dry, a gentle breeze kept us from overheating, things were pretty perfect.
Quite high on the route, Gav mentioned some knee trouble going on, we took it steady and stayed roped up for the descent as a precaution. With the knee still giving some bother, Gav was keen not to push it and we called it a day, so enjoyed a leisurely lunch before heading down to Goats Water so Don could cool off.

Despite cutting plans a bit short, we still managed a top quality mountaineering route on one of the finest cliffs in the country. Dow has something about it, an aura. It offers climbs throughout the grade range. We watched climbers on the magnificent 'Eliminate A' (VS) and heard of friends who had been on Catacomb (E1) and Tumble (E4) on the same day. So whatever your grade or objective for the day, Dow delivers.
​
Another brilliant day spent in the mountains, on a great route and in really good company, thanks Gav.

Mark

Cautionary note: a large flake of rock has fallen from high on this route. There is debris still in this area and care should be taken.
#dow_crag_rock_climbing_course_lake_district
Don leading the way to Dow crag
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Dow crag - mountaineering day

13/7/2017

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#rock_climbing_dow_crag_lake_district
Dow crag - seen from the approach walk
Another brilliant day out in the mountains of the Lake District. This time with father & son team Ken & Angus, who were looking for something a little more than a walk in the mountains.
Well Dow crag certainly made sure they got more than a stroll!

We climbed the classic C Ordinary route which takes in the length of C Buttress up to Easy Terrace. The rock was warm and dry, despite the occasional chilly breeze.

From the terrace we decided to make this into a proper mountaineering day and continue to the summit via more scrambling.
The climbing on this route is mostly straightforward, with a few thought provoking sections, but what makes this a brilliant route are the positions. High above Goat's Water and with grandstand views to Coniston Old Man, Coniston Water, and over to the Irish Sea. This is a pretty special place.

Strong winds and drizzle met us at the summit, but who cares, we'd enjoyed a great time climbing and now for an easy walk back to the Walna scar.

Well done to Ken & Angus, their biggest summer climb to date.

Mark

Cautionary note: a large flake of rock has fallen from high on this route. There is debris still in this area and care should be taken.
​
#rock_climbing_lake_district_dow_crag
Moving together over easy climbing terrain on C Ordinary route, Dow Crag
#rock_climbing_dow_crag_lake_district
Top of C Ordinary route and enjoying the view
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Rock climbing on Great Gable - the birthplace of British mountaineering

24/4/2015

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Needle-ridge-Great-Gable
It's been a busy few days here with many hours spent rock climbing at a variety of Lakeland crags. So definitely feeling pretty privileged at the moment, being out with lovely people, stunning scenery, and beautiful weather.

Earlier in the week it was Wallowbarrow Crag in the Duddon valley, this is my favourite valley crag and enjoys unrivalled views out over the valley.
Then Long Scar x 3 visits. This crag nestles on Pike O' Blisco and commands fine views of Wetherlam and into the Duddon valley.

And after a day of rest, yesterday we decided on a big day out!

Starting from Seathwaite in Borrowdale, we walked in to the Napes area of Great Gable. Being steeped in history a visit here always gives me the shivers, I just love it.
The walk alone is very dramatic and worthwhile in its own right. The small trod known as 'the climbers traverse' is easy enough and actually quite level, but takes you close to the crags so provides a real buzz of excitement.

Our chosen route was 'Needle Ridge' and this is located right next to Napes Needle - probably the most famous piece of rock in the country. Good for us as it makes locating our climb much easier.

There was a party of 3 climbers already on 'Napes Needle' and whilst it had been in my mind to climb this too, the wait would have probably added too much time to an already long day out, so we gave it a miss.

The initial pitch of our climb is quite polished now, so care is needed. Thankfully the polish is not so acute higher up on the route. Every pitch is fun and gives increasingly fine exposure, with Wasdale as a constant backdrop.

The final pitch is an easy scramble over a gendarmed arete (see photo above), and whilst the climbing here is not at all challenging, for me this is the best part of the route, giving loads of exposure in a high mountain setting.

A short scramble leads away from the top of the crag and onto a grassy shoulder, from here Westmorland Crag can be seen on the right. We decided to also climb Pinnacle Ridge on this crag, meaning we would climb all the way to the summit of Great Gable.
Only graded 'Moderate' this was likely to be quite a quick ascent, and it was. But the route wasn't what I had expected.
Although clearly well travelled, the rock was still in a friable state with many loose flakes. It's also more buttress than ridge, at least until the final 50 metres or so, here the ridge becomes more well defined.

The top of the climb brought us out only a couple of minutes walk from the summit of Great Gable, which we had all to ourselves. Stunning views into Ennerdale, the Scafells, the Buttermere fells, even the Langdale Pikes.

I'd certainly recommend linking these routes for a fine and long mountaineering style day in the Lake District. 

A top day out, thanks Anna & Kristina.

Photos:
The gendarmed arete of Needle Ridge
The walk in along the 'climbers traverse'
Climbers on Napes Needle
The first pitch of Needle Ridge
Climbers-traverse-Great-Gable
Napes-Needle-Great-Gable
Rock-climbing-Great-Gable
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