Category: Mountaineering Lake District

Training for bigger mountains

31/5/2019

Tracy & Vic on a comfy belay ledge, Middlefell Buttress

This last couple of days I've been joined by Tracy and Vic who were wanting to spend time on scrambles and easier climbs so they could get more comfortable with exposure. This is in preparation for a variety of trips they have planned to the Alps and maybe beyond.

We started off with a grade 2 scramble, this quickly moved up a gear to a 'Diff' rock climb in Langdale. These two routes gave plentiful supply of exposed terrain and plenty of technical challenge whilst moving over the rock.

With a damp and windy day forecast for the next day, we decided to scramble rather than try more difficult rock climbs.
And what better for getting used to exposed terrain than the 'Alpinesque' Pinnacle Ridge on St. Sunday crag. This uber classic really does take some beating, and with some wild weather blowing through the atmosphere was simply magnificent.
Yes we all got thoroughly soaked, but there were big smiles all round. Lots of time spent in the mountains climbing and scrambling, sharing experiences and stories, and keeping fit.

Big thanks to Tracy and Vic, some of the photo credits go to them too.

Mark

Tackling the crux of Pinnacle ridge - it was a damp ascent!

A rare shot of me - on Pinnacle ridge

Enjoying dry rock on Middlefell Buttress

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Alpine training days - Lake District

19/7/2017

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#alpine-training_and_preparation_days_lake_district

Gav powering up C Ordinary route

Yesterday we were yet again under big blue skies here in the Lakes. Temperatures soared into the high 20C's adding to this 'getting back on rock and Alpine / Dolomites training day' for Gav.
We've climbed together for a few years now, but it has been a while since our last trip out and today Gav was keen to keep things easy and focus on mileage, partly as preparation for a forthcoming trip to the Dolomites.

We began with C Ordinary route on Dow crag. The rock was delightfully warm and completely dry, a gentle breeze kept us from overheating, things were pretty perfect.
Quite high on the route, Gav mentioned some knee trouble going on, we took it steady and stayed roped up for the descent as a precaution. With the knee still giving some bother, Gav was keen not to push it and we called it a day, so enjoyed a leisurely lunch before heading down to Goats Water so Don could cool off.

Despite cutting plans a bit short, we still managed a top quality mountaineering route on one of the finest cliffs in the country. Dow has something about it, an aura. It offers climbs throughout the grade range. We watched climbers on the magnificent 'Eliminate A' (VS) and heard of friends who had been on Catacomb (E1) and Tumble (E4) on the same day. So whatever your grade or objective for the day, Dow delivers.

Another brilliant day spent in the mountains, on a great route and in really good company, thanks Gav.

Mark

Cautionary note: a large flake of rock has fallen from high on this route. There is debris still in this area and care should be taken.

#dow_crag_rock_climbing_course_lake_district

Don leading the way to Dow crag

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Dow crag - mountaineering day

13/7/2017

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Dow crag - seen from the approach walk

Another brilliant day out in the mountains of the Lake District. This time with father & son team Ken & Angus, who were looking for something a little more than a walk in the mountains.
Well Dow crag certainly made sure they got more than a stroll!

We climbed the classic C Ordinary route which takes in the length of C Buttress up to Easy Terrace. The rock was warm and dry, despite the occasional chilly breeze.

From the terrace we decided to make this into a proper mountaineering day and continue to the summit via more scrambling.
The climbing on this route is mostly straightforward, with a few thought provoking sections, but what makes this a brilliant route are the positions. High above Goat's Water and with grandstand views to Coniston Old Man, Coniston Water, and over to the Irish Sea. This is a pretty special place.

Strong winds and drizzle met us at the summit, but who cares, we'd enjoyed a great time climbing and now for an easy walk back to the Walna scar.

Well done to Ken & Angus, their biggest summer climb to date.

Mark

Cautionary note: a large flake of rock has fallen from high on this route. There is debris still in this area and care should be taken.

Moving together over easy climbing terrain on C Ordinary route, Dow Crag

Top of C Ordinary route and enjoying the view

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Rock climbing on Great Gable - the birthplace of British mountaineering

24/4/2015

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It's been a busy few days here with many hours spent rock climbing at a variety of Lakeland crags. So definitely feeling pretty privileged at the moment, being out with lovely people, stunning scenery, and beautiful weather.

Earlier in the week it was Wallowbarrow Crag in the Duddon valley, this is my favourite valley crag and enjoys unrivalled views out over the valley.
Then Long Scar x 3 visits. This crag nestles on Pike O' Blisco and commands fine views of Wetherlam and into the Duddon valley.

And after a day of rest, yesterday we decided on a big day out!

Starting from Seathwaite in Borrowdale, we walked in to the Napes area of Great Gable. Being steeped in history a visit here always gives me the shivers, I just love it.
The walk alone is very dramatic and worthwhile in its own right. The small trod known as 'the climbers traverse' is easy enough and actually quite level, but takes you close to the crags so provides a real buzz of excitement.

Our chosen route was 'Needle Ridge' and this is located right next to Napes Needle - probably the most famous piece of rock in the country. Good for us as it makes locating our climb much easier.

There was a party of 3 climbers already on 'Napes Needle' and whilst it had been in my mind to climb this too, the wait would have probably added too much time to an already long day out, so we gave it a miss.

The initial pitch of our climb is quite polished now, so care is needed. Thankfully the polish is not so acute higher up on the route. Every pitch is fun and gives increasingly fine exposure, with Wasdale as a constant backdrop.

The final pitch is an easy scramble over a gendarmed arete (see photo above), and whilst the climbing here is not at all challenging, for me this is the best part of the route, giving loads of exposure in a high mountain setting.

A short scramble leads away from the top of the crag and onto a grassy shoulder, from here Westmorland Crag can be seen on the right. We decided to also climb Pinnacle Ridge on this crag, meaning we would climb all the way to the summit of Great Gable.
Only graded 'Moderate' this was likely to be quite a quick ascent, and it was. But the route wasn't what I had expected.
Although clearly well travelled, the rock was still in a friable state with many loose flakes. It's also more buttress than ridge, at least until the final 50 metres or so, here the ridge becomes more well defined.

The top of the climb brought us out only a couple of minutes walk from the summit of Great Gable, which we had all to ourselves. Stunning views into Ennerdale, the Scafells, the Buttermere fells, even the Langdale Pikes.

I'd certainly recommend linking these routes for a fine and long mountaineering style day in the Lake District.

A top day out, thanks Anna & Kristina.

Photos:
The gendarmed arete of Needle Ridge
The walk in along the 'climbers traverse'
Climbers on Napes Needle
The first pitch of Needle Ridge

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Training for bigger mountains

Alpine training days - Lake District

Dow crag - mountaineering day

Rock climbing on Great Gable - the birthplace of British mountaineering

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