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Lead rock climbing course - Hot rock!

6/1/2018

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#rockclimbingleadcoursespain
Rachel leading at Murla crag in the Jalon valley
During the autumn Asti contacted us to book a rock climbing course for herself and two friends Rachel and Sylvia. None had climbed in this part of Spain before and for Sylvia it was to be her first time climbing outdoors, exciting times.

We had 2 and a half days to fit lots into, and we did.
Meeting at Sierra de Toix on Wednesday afternoon, everyone seconded a few routes up to 6a. We stayed until dark, taking time to watch the amazing sunset over Sierra Helada and Benidorm.

For Thursday we stayed local to our base in Llosa, choosing Alcalali crag for the morning.With a good mix of leading and seconding, and time spent on technical instruction, this was a very productive morning. By lunchtime, the crag had become busy, and hot! So we retreated to the coast and a little known venue near Javea. Overlooking a small bay by the sea, and with a good selection of quality climbs this proved to be the perfect afternoon crag for the girls. Everyone climbed 3 routes, including more lead climbing too. Then it was time for some exploration of the nearby cove and seashore, it's a holiday after all :-)
Again we stayed for sunset and a darkish walk back to the roadside, fully making use of all the day.

For the final climbing day we stayed local again, this time Murla crag. The aim was to get plenty more leading done, so Murla works well for this, being a short crag, with easy access and friendly bolting. Lead climbs were achieved up to 6a, awesome!
The hot sun began to take its toll and with the arrival of a couple of friends, we retreated to a cafe. But no ordinary cafe. The amazing cake is only topped by the incredible sunsets from Coll de Rates. This was a fitting way to conclude the course, in a relaxed style but with a great sense of achievement felt by all.

Big thanks to Asti, Rachel, and Sylvia. A pleasure to meet you and we hope to see you all for more crag adventures soon.

Mark 

#rockclimbingcoursespain
Asti leading on the wonderful rock of Ambolo crag
#costablancarockclimbing
Rachel at the top of a 6a -- check out the blue sky :-)
#costablancarockclimbingcourse
Sunset from Coll de Rates after another brilliant day of Rock climbing
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Multi-activity, Costa Blanca

25/12/2015

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Bernia-ridge-Costa-Blanca
Bernia ridge
Two years ago we welcomed Edd to Spain for a fairly last minute introductory rock climbing holiday. Each day we climbed a lot and generally had loads of fun. Last December Edd was back, this time with his sisters and friends. Needless to say we were delighted by this and much fun was had. The theme was still rock climbing, but canyoning and scrambling were enjoyed too.
This December the team were back for more. All now climbing really well and leading trad routes back in the UK, I knew the itinerary was going to need to be pretty special so got to work on making plans for great mountain adventures.

Day 1: Arriving around lunchtime, there wasn't much time for climbing, but we did squeeze in a visit to the local Toix crags and this proved to be a perfect warm up for the holiday.

Day 2: We visited Font d'Axia crags in the Jalon valley area. A lovely quiet crag with loads of great routes from 4 - 7a, so a good range. Everyone climbed loads despite the heat of the sun wilting us at times. And even the 7a saw an attempt!
During the day we looked at multi-pitch climbing skills too, in preparation for a sea cliff adventure tomorrow. Everyone led climbs today and much improvement seen by all. Awesome day!

Day 3: A serious undertaking today, we were heading to the Morro Falqui sea cliffs near Teulada. Our sights set on the 6 pitch 'Sonjannika' which climbs the full length of this impressive cliff. A canyon descent starts the day, then a short scramble to reach the base of the route. With 6 of us on the route, careful time management was crucial for safety and success, thankfully everyone worked hard to keep the day flowing smoothly. I climbed with Jules who was fab company all day. We all met up on the big ledge above pitch 4, here we enjoyed lunch overlooking the sea :-)
As with many brilliant routes, the best is saved until last, and pitch 6 doesn't disappoint. Long and with several tricky sections and a traverse to finish the pitch off, this is excellent in every way. There were a fair few tentative moments on that final traverse, but everyone kept their cool and climbed it well, often finishing to applause from those already at the top. A big and awesome day.

Day 4: An easier day today, with a visit to Jalon market during the morning to buy some Christmas gifts to take back home. During the afternoon we headed for the beach at Les Rotes. Here we swam in the warm sea and enjoyed some beach bouldering. A nice restful day.

Day 5: Another 'full-on' day. We began with a long Via Ferrata on Ponoch. This brought many smiles and much laughter all round. The weather wasn't being so kind today though, with cloud swirling around us for much of the ascent, although this did add to the atmosphere. The clouds cleared briefly when we were at the top and this provided us with big views of the mountain and surroundings. A multi-stage abseil took us easily back to the base.
During the afternoon we went cragging in the nearby Echo valley. With everyone going so well, we almost climbed the whole crag out during our fairly short visit, top effort.

Day 6: Bernia ridge traverse - big day out! An early-ish start for this one saw us walking in before the sun had warmed the air, this allowed a speedy start. We geared up at the 'Forat' then began our ascent to the ridge. A few nerves amongst the team today, especially so once the scale and location start to register! Once on the ridge we were in the sun and pleasantly warm. Movement along the crest soon came naturally to all, and the exposure soon a normal part of the day. Still, concentration levels stayed very high throughout for everyone, big space below the feet tends to have that effect!
We cruised the ridge, the abseils, the climbing section, and then to the descent. Scree run fun, why not? This is a super rapid way to loose height on the northern side of the ridge. Within only about 50m everyone was looking comfortable with the terrain and much laughter could be heard, for this is brilliant fun.
We made it back to base in time for coffees, cake, and beer at the Bernia restaurant. Another awesome day.

Day 7: Yesterday had been a long mountaineering day, and muscles ached a little this morning. So our plan to go cragging to Gandia fit the bill perfectly. The sun was out again, the rock warm, the routes fantastic. Everyone climbed the worm hole route of 'Pequeno Saltemontes' which is so much fun, and made even more so if your name is Lauren or Edd ;-)
This very much became a day of consolidating leading skills for most, with both Jules & Nicola really excelling and ticking loads of routes on the lead. We almost had to drag ourselves away at the end of the day, still so much to do here.

Day 8: Last day for the team and a trip to Aventador crag. This is home to a short and very steep Via Ferrata and that's what we started with. The weather was overcast and cold when we arrived, but thankfully this soon changed to blue skies and sunshine :-)
Jules enjoyed the Via Ferrata so much she went up it again, taking Kate with her. Nice one.
A fine selection of routes were climbed on the main crag, a little multi-pitch action too, and a quality 6a lead for Lauren. Nicola & Edd spent time placing trad gear to help plug the gaps between the bolts. This is a good way to become proficient at this and carries less risk, win win.

Where did the time go, why do you have to go, we'll miss you all so much

Big thanks to: Edd, Lauren, Jules, Nicola, and Richard - an absolute pleasure

Multi-pitch-climbing-Spain
Sonjannika sea cliff
Multi-pitch-climbing-Spain
Top of Sonjannika
Via-ferrata-Costa-Blanca
Ponoch Via Ferrata
Via-ferrata-Costa-Blanca
Ponoch Via Ferrata
Learn-to-lead-climb-outdoors
First outdoor lead route at Echo valley
Bernia-ridge
Bernia ridge
Via-ferrata-Aventador-Costa-Blanca
Aventador
Rock-climbing-course-Spain
Sport climbing skills
Rock-climbing-skills-Costa-Blanca
Multi-pitch skills
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Ridges, Sea Cliffs, & Lead climbing on the Costa Blanca

24/12/2014

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Abseiling
Setting up an abseil
Sea cliff climbing - Magical mystery tour
More absolutely fabulous days have been enjoyed here in Spain. Rest days were shunned in search of more adventure and how much could be crammed into a few short days. Never enough time.

On Sunday everyone completed a full traverse of the Toix ridge. Our variation on this includes a multi-pitch climb of around 250m starting from Toix Este. So this is a very big extension to the day, and well worth it. The climbing is mostly straightforward, but the whole time the atmosphere builds as we climb higher and higher above the sea.

After lunch at the Mirador, we continued our journey by venturing onto the main Toix ridge. This begins with more straightforward climbing, leading to a scrambling section which is extremely memorable. Narrow and space below your feet come to mind. Everyone did really well on this mentally and physically challenging day. Photos of this day are below.

The star of these days for me was without any doubt the 'Magical Mystery Tour' on the Toix sea cliffs, Calpe.

Only 1 of the team had abseiled before, so we engineered a practice session into the day. This was essential as access to the sea cliff is by a 40 metre free-hanging abseil!!! So a warm up to this was needed. The practice session and the real deal all went without hitch, with everyone arriving in the big caves at the bottom of the abseil looking and probably feeling a little awe-struck.
The temperature on the cliff was high, with no wind, full sun, and reflection from the sea, everyone was soon feeling hot and bothered.
No worries though, for this is an awesome place with plenty to occupy one's thoughts!

Straightforward scrambling soon leads to the climbing, but the transition isn't at all gentle, suddenly there's a 30 metre drop straight into the sea and you need to step over the void to make the move, spicy it certainly is.
From now on the climbing is continually interesting and the crux is fittingly near the top. Everyone emerged triumphantly at the top of the cliff, relieved, elated, inspired, refreshed.
A wonderful experience.

Photos from the sea cliffs are above.

Rock climbing Costa Blanca
Ridge scrambling - Costa Blanca
Rock climbing Costa Blanca
And the final day of the course had to come, sad times indeed.

We spent it well, with a visit to Toix TV for some quality single pitch cragging with beautiful views over the coast and to the mountains.
Routes in the 6's were being cruised by all, and some very smily faces as a result (and aching muscles). Some sensational leads by both Edd & Lauren on 'Gufelwufel' (5). This is at the top of the grade and both cruised this on lead. Really pleased with this and the smoothness of transition from indoor to outdoor leading for both, well done.

Photos below show Genevieve on Gufelwufel, and below again is the view from the crag.

What a place to climb. What a week has been had. All in the company of such lovely people.

Thanks to: Edd, Nicola, Genevieve, Lauren, Jules, Chris, Kate, and Kim. You made it a fantastic week.


Rock climbing Costa Blanca
Guided walking - Costa Blanca
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Big canyons, learning to lead, and artisan markets of the Costa Blanca

20/12/2014

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Costa blanca walking
Barranco del Infierno
Echo valley
Barranco del Infierno
Learning to lead climb
We've had a fabulous few days of adventure, taking in so much wonderful scenery along the way. Even our rest day was rather action packed!

On thursday we spent a day in the Val de Gulabdar (or Echo valley) where we climbed during the morning and ventured into the nearby canyon during the afternoon. The canyon was damper than expected which led to exciting times for our wheel-spinning feet. Nevertheless it was good to be in the shade offered by the deep gorge.

Friday was the big canyon day! The awesome Barranco del Infierno. This is a very special place, full of atmosphere, and challenging until the very end. Everyone did really well and emerged from the canyon in time for a late lunch and time to reflect on the magical place we had been.

Saturday is market day in Jalon, so we all went to market in search of bargains. A few were found that's for sure.
The day was not without activity though, for a visit to Murla crag was in store for the afternoon. We climbed around half a dozen routes up to 6a. Both Edd & Lauren had more time on the sharp end too, leading a good pitch of 4+ - top effort.

Thanks for for these great times.



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First few days back on the Costa Blanca

7/12/2014

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Rock climbing - Costa Blanca
So we're back out on the Costa Blanca, and yes it's very sunny as is so often the case.

After the 35 hour drive from Ambleside I was feeling a little worse for wear and a rest day was in order, so me & Colin had a day by the pool and did some shopping.

Saturday came and the crags were calling, but still wanting to take it easy we opted for single pitch on the Toix crags of Calpe. A good afternoon was enjoyed climbing straightforward routes with a few thought provoking moves here and there.

On Saturday evening a few more friends arrived and on Sunday we had a team day at Murla crags in the Jalon valley. Having visited before but not climbed on this crag I was super keen to try it out. Although short, the routes pack a punch, many with slight overhangs right at the start!

Deb & Graham ticked a load of routes in the 5 to 6 range. We enjoyed a few 6's but today was far more eventful than that. Anna & Colin both led their first ever sport climbs, top effort from both.

The sun beat down on the crag all afternoon, the warm Limestone, sharp to the touch and providing plentiful thought provoking moves gave us a delightful day of single pitch 'cragging'. This is what the Costa Blanca is so good at.

The photos below give an idea of the crag and what we were up to. The first is Anna going through the process of what to do at a 'lower off' on a sport climbing crag, this was in preparation for her first lead of this kind. All went very well.
The second shot give an overview of this part of the crag - short but sweet.

Tomorrow Anna, Colin and another friend Kim will traverse the Bernia ridge whilst myself and Jill are on walking duties with Don, circumnavigating the Bernia with a visit to the Fort along the way.

We have good availability for January. So if you're thinking of escaping the UK weather for a few days or a week, and would like to try 'sun rock' or 'multi-activity' please do get in touch. 




Sport climbing holiday Costa Blanca
Sport climbing Costa Blanca
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