Category: Great Gable

Alpine training - Lake District

21/6/2019

Threading the needle - Napes Needle

We've just had a couple of absolutely fantastic mountain days out with Tracy in preparation for her forthcoming Alpine trip.
Being a relatively recent convert to scrambling, I think it's fair to say she has the bug. Such a great way to move amongst the mountains as is it.
First up was Cam Crag Ridge in Langstrath. A beautifully situated rocky ridge which is deserving of its 3 star status for views alone. Factor in the sublime rock, amazing situations, and very cool climbing and you have a 'must-do' route that really is good for all levels of scrambler as the grade can be varied from 1 to 3 quite easily. Blue skies and moderate winds gave us perfect conditions and we blasted up the route in super quick time.

For day 2 the bar was raised somewhat. With light winds and blue skies in the forecast this was always going to be a stunner. From Seathwaite in Borrowdale we took the Scafell Pike path as far as Styhead, then moved off onto the 'Climbers traverse' route under the majestic crags of Great Gable. Being steeped in mountaineering history, and having the most iconic piece of rock in the country, this place always brings a tingle to my spine, I love it.
There were climbers enjoying a tussle with 'Kern Knotts crack' - a classic struggle! We geared up shortly before reaching Napes Needle and it was decided we would 'thread the needle' and make this the start of our scrambling. This is also a traditional struggle, with some thuggy moves up the groove line, but it feels so wonderful. After this we continued on passing 'the dress circle' where we enjoyed great views back to climbers on Napes Needle and on Needle Ridge, all out enjoying the great weather.
Our route joins on to Sphinx ridge, which offers some really cool positions if taken directly (which we did), all perfect for that alpine like exposure that Tracy is looking for.
With the summit of Great Gable now close by, we detour slightly to fit in yet more scrambling up Pinnacle Ridge. This takes us almost to the top of the mountain and all with hands on rock.

A quick photo stop before we blast back down via Windy Gap.

Such a brilliant way to spend a day. For top quality scrambling and mountaineering in the Lake District, Great Gable delivers by the bucket load :-)

Thanks to Tracy and all the best for your Alpine trip.

Mark

Climbers descending after climbing Napes Needle

Sphinx ridge, Great Gable

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Tophet Wall, Great Gable

7/5/2018

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On the magnificent traverse pitch - photo credit Susan Guest

The Lake District is blessed with some of the finest rock climbs in the country and some of the very best 'trad' climbing in the world. The history of Lakeland climbing is long, varied, and colourful. Much of this history is centred around Wasdale Head from where Scafell, Pillar, and Great Gable could all be reached. Note I didn't say 'easily reached' for these mountain crags demand a higher degree of effort from anyone wanting to sample their splendour. Our approach time today was circa 1 hour 45 minutes. Is it worth the bother? Absolutely! These crags are fantastic, full of outstanding climbs throughout the grade spectrum, so whatever your aspirations you will find a route to suit and enjoy.

The views enjoyed from the Great Gable crags and the Napes area in particular are mind-bendingly beautiful, with a mix of lake, mountain, crag, and farmland far below. Breathtaking is too soft a word, let's instead go for 'Breathless' (an E9 in the Tophet Wall area).

9 years ago I stood as the base of Tophet Wall with friend Tony McKenzie who was guiding a young lad up the route and I got to tag along. I remember it being a fun and exposed route going through some wild terrain. This all came flooding back today.
The 1st pitch has a 'run out' start but soon the good gear arrives and all is well. The 2nd pitch is bold to start but again the gear soon comes very good, with a few tricky moves.
The 3rd pitch is a big traverse which is incredibly good fun with good gear the whole way. The handholds are huge but feet need to smear some of the time. The final pitch is the 'money' pitch! The guidebook suggests a 'sensational' position and this is so true, such a crazy place. But with good protection and solid rock these are moves to be savoured, enjoyed, remembered. I definitely didn't want to rush, for it's days like these last stay in our memories for a very long time, forever.

To descend we abseiled down the 'Back staircase' into 'Great hell gate'. This is a steep scree chute that proved much fun to descend.

So why this route?
Tophet Wall is known as a 'Classic rock route' and this suggests a route of great character. Ken Wilson edited 'Classic Rock' with numerous editions being published and they became classic too. Inspiring a generation of climbers out onto the high mountain crags to sample the adventure they so clearly hold.

Neither Susan or Kristina (my climbing partners today) had climbed this route before, and with a great weather forecast it made a lot of sense to aim for the higher crags, this was a very good choice.
Thanks to you both for joining me on this adventure..

Mark

Susan on the traverse pitch

Views over to the Scafell range are pretty good too!

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The Napes of Great Gable. Mountaineering in the Lake District

20/9/2016

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The gendarmed arete of Needle Ridge

Today was all about mountaineering, a big day on the high crags, moving rapidly up easier rock and scrambling routes. And where better to do this than The Napes area of Great Gable, right next to the most iconic piece of rock in England, Napes Needle.

Needle Ridge is a 'Classic Rock' route graded V'diff and whilst it's all very good, it gets better as height is gained, as all top quality rock routes should. To finish this route is a magnificent gendarmed arete with Wasdale as backdrop, such a stunning location.
After a quick snack stop we made our way over to Westmorland's crag for our continuation route, Pinnacle Ridge. This gives a further 150m of quality scrambling and for this we chose to 'move together' in an Alpine style. This provides a higher level of safety than soloing, but less so than pitched climbing. A mere 15 minutes later we were at the top of this route too and enjoying spectacular views of the whole of the Lake District, over to the Isle of Man, and Scotland.

We took a stroll to the summit of Great Gable before descending via Styhead tarn back to Borrowdale.

A really good day out, thanks Jane

Setting off on Needle Ridge

The recently replaced memorial on Great Gable summit

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Wow, what a week so far...Esk Gorge & Napes Needle + how to descend Napes Needle

19/8/2015

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On Monday we were over in Eskdale with the returning Earey family, great to see you all again.
The Esk Gorge was our agenda and the weather played ball for us, sun, sun, sun all day, yippee!

Pool jumps, wild swims, cascade climbs, and the most beautiful scenery imaginable, that's the Esk Gorge.
Yes it's an effort to get to, but more effort = more fun!

We also managed a foray into the nearby Lingcove Beck, more jumps and swims await in the emerald pools.

Tuesday was a team day out for us. Me & Kate hot footed up to Great Gable and The Napes climbing area. Birthplace of English traditional rock climbing and so steeped in history, I always find it an emotional place to visit and today was no exception.
After a number of visits to the Napes for other climbs, today it was 'The' climb we were here for, 'Napes Needle'. As I sat in the gully to gear up, looking up at the needle I tried to imagine what Haskett-Smith must have been thinking before and during his 1st ascent back in 1886!
We chose 'The Arete' (HS) as a route to the tiny summit. Slightly less polished and probably more exposed, this provided everything I was expecting and oh so much more. The shoulder belay may be spacious, but that doesn't prepare one for the true summit that lies a further 4 metres above. This is very small, flat, and exceptionally exposed, absolutely fantastic!

Kate cruised up and we managed as summit selfie before a quick retreat to the shoulder and an abseil back to the base.
Extremely happy to have finally climbed this magnificent piece of rock and so pleased it was with Kate.

Descending from Napes Needle:
So you've climbed the needle, taken a selfie, admired the outstanding views to Wasdale and the Scafell range. Now there's the problem of getting back down!
A number of options are available, here's some to consider:

1) Lower your second and down climb back to the shoulder belay (using the runners placed during ascent as protection). The climbing is challenging but very doable and a runner will never be far away. From the shoulder, arrange an abseil back to the base.
2) As above, only for added safety place a sling over the flake at the back of the Needle, clip the rope through this prior to down climbing.
3) Lower your second all the way back to the base, have them stay tied into the climbing rope. Place the rope through the notch feature on the Needle and counterbalance abseil down the opposite side of the Needle.

All 3 options for retreat require great care and involve a degree of risk. It is up to the individual climber to decide which is most suitable for them, or indeed more options are available should none of these suit.

Two brilliant days amongst stunning Lakeland scenery and with many lovely people.

Thanks all.

Mark

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Rock climbing on Great Gable - the birthplace of British mountaineering

24/4/2015

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It's been a busy few days here with many hours spent rock climbing at a variety of Lakeland crags. So definitely feeling pretty privileged at the moment, being out with lovely people, stunning scenery, and beautiful weather.

Earlier in the week it was Wallowbarrow Crag in the Duddon valley, this is my favourite valley crag and enjoys unrivalled views out over the valley.
Then Long Scar x 3 visits. This crag nestles on Pike O' Blisco and commands fine views of Wetherlam and into the Duddon valley.

And after a day of rest, yesterday we decided on a big day out!

Starting from Seathwaite in Borrowdale, we walked in to the Napes area of Great Gable. Being steeped in history a visit here always gives me the shivers, I just love it.
The walk alone is very dramatic and worthwhile in its own right. The small trod known as 'the climbers traverse' is easy enough and actually quite level, but takes you close to the crags so provides a real buzz of excitement.

Our chosen route was 'Needle Ridge' and this is located right next to Napes Needle - probably the most famous piece of rock in the country. Good for us as it makes locating our climb much easier.

There was a party of 3 climbers already on 'Napes Needle' and whilst it had been in my mind to climb this too, the wait would have probably added too much time to an already long day out, so we gave it a miss.

The initial pitch of our climb is quite polished now, so care is needed. Thankfully the polish is not so acute higher up on the route. Every pitch is fun and gives increasingly fine exposure, with Wasdale as a constant backdrop.

The final pitch is an easy scramble over a gendarmed arete (see photo above), and whilst the climbing here is not at all challenging, for me this is the best part of the route, giving loads of exposure in a high mountain setting.

A short scramble leads away from the top of the crag and onto a grassy shoulder, from here Westmorland Crag can be seen on the right. We decided to also climb Pinnacle Ridge on this crag, meaning we would climb all the way to the summit of Great Gable.
Only graded 'Moderate' this was likely to be quite a quick ascent, and it was. But the route wasn't what I had expected.
Although clearly well travelled, the rock was still in a friable state with many loose flakes. It's also more buttress than ridge, at least until the final 50 metres or so, here the ridge becomes more well defined.

The top of the climb brought us out only a couple of minutes walk from the summit of Great Gable, which we had all to ourselves. Stunning views into Ennerdale, the Scafells, the Buttermere fells, even the Langdale Pikes.

I'd certainly recommend linking these routes for a fine and long mountaineering style day in the Lake District.

A top day out, thanks Anna & Kristina.

Photos:
The gendarmed arete of Needle Ridge
The walk in along the 'climbers traverse'
Climbers on Napes Needle
The first pitch of Needle Ridge

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Alpine training - Lake District

Tophet Wall, Great Gable

The Napes of Great Gable. Mountaineering in the Lake District

Wow, what a week so far...Esk Gorge & Napes Needle + how to descend Napes Needle

Rock climbing on Great Gable - the birthplace of British mountaineering

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