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Trad climbing - Costa Blanca

29/12/2018

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#tradclimbingcostablanca
Vall de Gulabdar crags from the top of Paret de Castellet
The Costa Blanca is better known amongst climbers for its amazing 'sport climbing' (bolted routes). So the 'trad' or 'traditional' climbing often gets overlooked, which is a shame, because these often form the best and most lasting  memories. Trad climbing simply means there is no (or at least very little) fixed protection in the rock, so we take everything with us in order to minimise the risks involved.

3 big differences come immediately to mind when thinking trad and sport:
1) Route finding will almost certainly be more difficult / involved on a trad route as there is no fixed protection to mark the route.
2) Protection is less certain and not always at regular intervals. 
3) There's a lot more equipment to carry!

These elements add together to produce a fourth difference. The level of adventure is way higher on a trad route.

For Christmas Day this year I was joined by my friend Kim and we headed out for a trad adventure in the nearby Valleys de Gulabdar (sometimes referred to as 'Echo valley'). Having not climbed any trad there for a while we were both pretty keen for a revisit and a day of trad. Kim had unfinished business with a route called 'Via Esther' a 'Hard Severe' route on Paret de Castellet crag. 4 pitches and about 100m so quite short for the area, but enough to keep us happy today.

The guidebook was enough to help us find the start of the route, although this still took a little working out. Once on the route, the description represented a work of fiction! Strangely I quite like it that way, it certainly adds to the adventure and keeps us second guessing.
The route was however very good, with nice solid, sharp rock, and plentiful protection for most of the way, it certainly never felt 'run out'. As we gained height so the views improved, and soon we enjoyed commanding vistas from the top of the crag. We had a choice of descent routes, either abseil or scramble. We chose to abseil, in retrospect this was a mistake as the abseil stations, whilst looking convenient, are not in the best of positions, so ropes can easily be rubbing over sharp edges, and there's real potential of a rope jamming on the first abseil.
As we were using 2x60m half ropes, it was just 2 abseils to reach the base of the crag. The scramble descent looked like following a pleasant ridge over to the ruined castle then a steady descent back to the road. Will try that next time.

Of the numerous trad routes I've climbed at Vall de Gulabdar, this has been the best so far and I would recommend it to anyone leading around the HS/VS grade. A selection of cams, nuts, and slings proved to be useful as there is very little in the way of fixed protection. The abseil stations are double bolted.


For more information or to book a guided day with us, either in the Costa Blanca or the Lake District, please get in touch anytime.

Mark

#viaesthercostablancaclimbing
Via Esther follows the right hand arete
#abseilingskills
Abseiling after the climb
#tradclimbingrack
Getting ready for a day of trad climbing
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Rock improvers week - Costa Blanca

10/3/2018

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#costablancaclimbing
The Forat in the Forada ridge, Vall de Gallinera
This week we welcomed Lizzie to Costa Blanca. Due to some delays with air travel, we started Monday a little later than planned, but still found the time for a big route on Toix Este and a few shorter routes at Alcalali crag. All this gave Lizzie a feel for the rock and the climbing here.
The main objective for the week was mileage on rock and that box has been well and truly ticked. We reckon around 38 pitches (trad and sport) and about 850 metres of climbing over the 5 days.

Mixing sport climbing days with trad days helped us achieve a balance, so Lizzie can return to the UK and enjoy the trad back home, having led a few pitches on the super sharp Limestone here.

We journeyed to the south side of Bernia ridge on Tuesday to sample the crags of Echo valley / Vall de Guadar and rattled through 12 routes at the conveniently located Echo 1.5 crag. A few leads for Lizzie today too.

Wednesday was a trad day and for this we chose the nearby and very extensive venue of Segaria.  Barranco Buttress is only a 15-20 minute walk along an old aqueduct and really close to our base here in Llosa de Camacho. As expected, we had the whole crag (possibly the whole mountain) to ourselves, so the pick of routes. A couple of longer routes for starters, up a pleasantly angled slab about 45m high. These were around V'diff and Severe and lots of fun. We then moved on to a smaller buttress and Lizzie led a couple of these routes at about Diff. The only sound we had all day was birdsong and bees enjoying the flowers, such a joy.

For Thursday we had planned a big mountain day, but strong winds caused us to re-think this. Instead we climbed single pitch sport at Sierra de Toix. Visiting Toix TV and Far Oeste crags and 8 more routes logged, including more leads for Lizzie :-)

The weather came good again for Friday. Well, when I say good, I mean absolutely outstanding. Wall to wall sunshine, warm temps, and a light breeze to help keep us cool, complete perfection. We used this to best advantage and set off for the Vall de Gallinera and the Arista al Forat de la Forada. A 7 pitch outing at about 'Severe' grade overall. With an easy approach walk, stunning setting and 250m of adventurous climbing through varied terrain, this is a route that's sure to bring a smile. And after that 250m of climbing, we finish with an abseil into the Forat (rock arch) for which the mountain is famous. A short while earlier there had been a small choir of 3 singing in the Forat, Lizzie would occasionally join in too! A musical day out.
Pleasant walking off the mountain and back to Benissiva, stopping to admire the wild flowers and glorious views of Forada on our way. Such a brilliant day :-)

Big thanks  to Lizzie for joining us this week, we hope to see you again soon.
Happy climbing

Mark

#calpecostablanca
Calpe and El Penon from Toix Este
#rockclimbingimproverscoursecostablanca
Enjoying the great rock and blue skies of Echo Valley :)
#rockclimbingimproverscoursecostablanca
Approach walk to Segaria
#costablancaridgescramblesandmountaineering
High on the Arista al Forat de la Forada
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Sport climbing holiday - in Sunny Spain

3/3/2018

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#rockclimbinggandiacostablanca
Fine views from El Bovedon crags, Gandia
Over the last few days we've welcomed back Rachel for her 3rd climbing trip to Costa Blanca this winter!

Each day we climbed at a different crag and over the course or her stay climbed at:

Echo valley: this area is home to a wide variety of crags, from single pitch bolted routes to multi-pitch trad adventures. We enjoyed 8 friendly routes at Echo 1.5

Bovedon (Gandia): Just north of our Llosa de Camacho base, lie these wonderful crags with a massive amount of routes. The local climbing scene around Gandia is strong and this is ever apparent when visiting the Bovedon crags, with so many newly bolted routes. Today we were also joined by Stig from Norway and Kate was climbing with us too. Can't remember how many routes we all climbed, but the highlight for us all i'm sure was a big pitch of 6b+ 'Jovenes a los 70' (young at 70)! The rock at Bovedon is super sharp, by the end of the day all our fingers were feeling battered and shredded, but still we walked away from the crag just before sunset as the magical light shone over the orange groves and onto the rocks, beautiful.

Sierra de Toix & Morro Falqui: Today the weather didn't play ball and a little rain came along!! So we delayed our climbing and instead had an explore of the Mascarat gorge prior to touching rock at Toix. This plan worked well as the rain stopped and the rock dried almost instantly :-) We were joined by Steve from the Midlands and we climbed a couple of mega long pitches before Steve took the led over on Toix Far Oeste. More rain came our way and we rain away! Me & Rachel drove north to seek the shelter of Morro Falqui and the classic 'Coming Out'. As expected, this was completely dry and sheltered from any rain and we enjoyed another fab climb before it was time for Rachel to make her way to the airport :-( 

Temperatures have risen over the last few days and currently conditions here are perfect for climbing on most of the valley and mountain crags.

Thanks to Rachel, Stig, Steve, and Kate
​
Mark

#rockclimbingcoursespain
Cragging at Echo valley with views of Ponoch beyond
#climbingcoursecostablanca
Rachel cruising 'Coming Out' at Morro Falqui
#costablancaclimbingholiday
Kate & Don - enjoying another sunny day at the crag
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A brief return to the Costa Blanca

25/3/2016

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Sierra de Bernia
Whilst Kate has been holding the fort and working hard here in the Lakes, I managed another short spell out in Spain.

The first few days was spent meeting up with friends and checking out more of this amazing adventure playground. We found some fantastic places for canyoning, sport climbing, and trad climbing.

Checking out venues in advance of taking our customers has always been a policy for us whenever possible, and one of the reasons for this is that information from guidebooks or online sources isn't always correct, and this can lead to problems and become time intense. An example of this came on this visit whilst descending the 'Barranco del Lliset del Salt' near the mountain village of Tarbena.
We found the place easy enough and the first abseil was as described, all's well then, well no not really. The second abseil was due to be 22m, so I deployed a 55m rope that should more than cover it. We couldn't see the route down due to a huge roof we would go over, this led to a free hanging abseil, I was constantly looking for the anchors but they didn't exist and the end of the rope was getting ever nearer!! About 3 metres from the end of rope I stopped, had a final look for the anchors and thought about plan 'b' & 'c'! Prussiking back up the rope was quite unappealing and may have led to severe rope wear as it ran over the roof, so I asked Ann who was still above, to deploy the other rope and use it's full 55m length in order to reach the bottom (this meant an unretrievable abseil set up). Ann could then safely descend and I was then able to switch onto the other rope and continue my descent in safety, pulling my ropes down at the same time. A quick run around to the top and we were able to retrieve all our abandoned gear and rope, so nothing lost.

Definitely a lesson learnt and will choose to use both ropes in future if the descent cannot be seen, no matter what the information says!
This is a very good, fairly short adventure through dramatic scenery and it's one I would certainly recommend. Starting and finishing in the village of Tarbena means the activity can be finished off with coffee & cake whilst sitting in the sun in the town square.

The next canyon of the trip was to be Barranco de les Viudes (the widow maker)!!
This was also near the village of Tarbena. The approach description was close to non-existent, but with a little searching we soon found it and made our way down. Access was super easy, less than 5 minutes from the parking place.
The abseils were mostly short, with just one of around 20m, but the scenery made the descent well worth while and a huge bonus came as we exited the canyon, we stumbled upon a recently developed sport climbing crag, oh yes!
This crag is situated in a beautiful location amongst Olive & Almond terraces (bancales) and looks into the top of the Bolulla canyon. We climbed a few routes here, all were very good, some were brilliant. Grade range is from 4+ up to probably high 7's maybe even some 8's - well they certainly looked mega tough.

We then spent a couple of days exploring the various crags below the vast Segaria ridge. Starting with Barranco buttress, we climbed at least one new route here. Further rightwards are much larger buttresses and we took a look at these too, we found a mix of good rock and proper 'horror show' quality rock with many holds snapping! This definitely added a big 'A' to our adventure climbing that day. The scope for new routes and very adventurous climbing here is huge, but some loose rock needs trundling first to make things a little safer.

On Sunday I drove inland to the pretty Guadalest valley where I was meeting Soo & John. They had been on a walking holiday based in Benimantell. Having enjoyed a full itinerary of mountain walks, they were both feeling like a day of rest before getting to grips with Spanish limestone.
Monday was a little damp, but we still managed a morning of climbing before being chased off the crags by rain. Thankfully the rain chased us into a seaside restaurant for a delicious lunch. The rain abated and we took a walk along the promenade for a closer look at El Penon de Ifach and the climbing it offers.

Tuesday brought much improved weather so we headed back to Toix to continue the rock climbing. Soo & John led 4 or 5 routes each during the morning. We then spent the afternoon at the Morro Falqui sea cliffs a little to the north of Calpe. Firstly climbing the fun 'Coming Out' route, then having a go on a couple of much harder climbs. We wrapped the afternoon up with an explore of the nearby sea caves.

By Wednesday the sun was back to working overtime again. We headed slightly inland to the Echo valley crags. 3 routes led by both Soo & John and a nice chilled out morning enjoyed by all.
After lunch we headed back to Toix for a multi-pitch climb. We started on a route called 'Maria', this leads into 'Anna' which took us to the top of the crag in a total of 3 pitches. Although the grades for each pitch are quite low, some of the moves felt rather tricky. A multi-pitch stacked abseil descent rounded the day off nicely.

Beautiful views, warm sunshine, excellent climbing, some great adventures, new lessons learnt, and all amongst lovely company. Thanks to Miguel, Mila, Ann, Soo, and John. Hopefully see you all again before too long.

Mark
​ 

climbing-course-costa-blanca-spain
Toix multi-pitch climbing
sport-climbing-holiday-spain
Morro Falqui cliffs
Canyoning-costa-blanca-spain
Problem solving during a canyon descent near Tarbena
rock-climbing-holiday-costa-blanca
Crag X - Bolulla
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Multi-activity holiday Costa Blanca

7/2/2016

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Via-ferrata-Costa-Blanca
Ponoch Via Ferrata
It's been a real pleasure to introduce Andzelika & Eugene to the amazing activities on offer here on the Costa Blanca.
The week began with a single pitch sport climbing session on the Echo valley crags followed by an afternoon in the nearby canyon for an introduction to the world of canyoning, Costa Blanca style. This makes for a lovely introduction to the area, has constantly beautiful views, and finishes on a summit looking out to sea, perfect or what.

Our second day out together was somewhat more 'full on' with a descent of the finest canyon in the area, Barranco Del Infierno. The scenery in this place is quite magnificent and has to be seen to be believed. Starting from the mountain village of Fleix we walk on good trails to reach the start. About 10 abseils and 2 via ferrata sections complete the descent amongst ever more inspiring scenery. An epic day always to be remembered.

After such a long day out in the barranco, day 3 was to be a little shorter, with less walking, but no less excitement. The Ponoch mountain lurks behind the seaside resort of Benidorm and is home to a 500m rock face, the largest in the area. On this rock face is installed a Via Ferrata of around 230m and this was todays objective.
It's steep, strenuous, and a heads for heights helps rather a lot with this one. Is it scary, yes. Does the adrenaline pump, yes. Is it loads of fun, yes. Is there a huge sense of achievement at the top, yes.
We have found Via Ferrata to be very popular and widely enjoyed. It's a great workout too.
Once at the top, there's a multi-stage abseil descent for which we used a stacked abseil system for additional safety.

By day 4 muscles were aching a little more so we opted for a relaxing day cragging at Murla crag in the Jalon valley. We ticked 5 routes and spent a fair bit of time enjoying the view of the almond blossom down in the valley bottom.

Day 5 (Thursday) started with just a splash of rain, thankfully not enough to wet the crags. We had a visit to Cala Testos via the canyon descent. Brand new ropes have now been fitted here to aid descent / ascent to the beach. Then it was time for a fun climb. 'Coming Out' a 4+ route on the nearby Morro Falqui crags offers something a little different. Climbing into a cave before emerging through a hole and out onto level ground, brilliant fun.

Day 6 was another cragging day. This time at nearby Toix crags. Here we climbed 8 routes from grade 3 - 5+. This is a really lovely setting above the sea and Mascarat gorge.

Before heading home on Saturday Andzelika & Eugene headed off to the Jalon market to find some bargains and momentos of their visit to the area.

And all too soon, the aeroplane comes to take people home. All we can say is, come back soon.

Thanks for visiting us Andzelika & Eugene, and thanks to Kate, Kim, Ann, and Joe for help and company throughout the week.

Below are a few photos from the week:

Mark
Rock-scrambling-Costa-Blanca
Echo valley scrambling
Barranco-del-Infierno-Costa-Blanca
Barranco del Infierno
Canyoning-Costa-Blanca
Barranco del Infierno
Rock-Climbing-Toix-Costa-Blanca
Rock climbing, Toix
Barranco-del-Infierno
Emerging from the Barranco del Infierno
Sport-climbing-holiday
Sport climbing, Murla crag
Stacked-abseil
Stacked abseil descent from Ponoch Via Ferrata
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Multi-activity, Costa Blanca

25/12/2015

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Bernia-ridge-Costa-Blanca
Bernia ridge
Two years ago we welcomed Edd to Spain for a fairly last minute introductory rock climbing holiday. Each day we climbed a lot and generally had loads of fun. Last December Edd was back, this time with his sisters and friends. Needless to say we were delighted by this and much fun was had. The theme was still rock climbing, but canyoning and scrambling were enjoyed too.
This December the team were back for more. All now climbing really well and leading trad routes back in the UK, I knew the itinerary was going to need to be pretty special so got to work on making plans for great mountain adventures.

Day 1: Arriving around lunchtime, there wasn't much time for climbing, but we did squeeze in a visit to the local Toix crags and this proved to be a perfect warm up for the holiday.

Day 2: We visited Font d'Axia crags in the Jalon valley area. A lovely quiet crag with loads of great routes from 4 - 7a, so a good range. Everyone climbed loads despite the heat of the sun wilting us at times. And even the 7a saw an attempt!
During the day we looked at multi-pitch climbing skills too, in preparation for a sea cliff adventure tomorrow. Everyone led climbs today and much improvement seen by all. Awesome day!

Day 3: A serious undertaking today, we were heading to the Morro Falqui sea cliffs near Teulada. Our sights set on the 6 pitch 'Sonjannika' which climbs the full length of this impressive cliff. A canyon descent starts the day, then a short scramble to reach the base of the route. With 6 of us on the route, careful time management was crucial for safety and success, thankfully everyone worked hard to keep the day flowing smoothly. I climbed with Jules who was fab company all day. We all met up on the big ledge above pitch 4, here we enjoyed lunch overlooking the sea :-)
As with many brilliant routes, the best is saved until last, and pitch 6 doesn't disappoint. Long and with several tricky sections and a traverse to finish the pitch off, this is excellent in every way. There were a fair few tentative moments on that final traverse, but everyone kept their cool and climbed it well, often finishing to applause from those already at the top. A big and awesome day.

Day 4: An easier day today, with a visit to Jalon market during the morning to buy some Christmas gifts to take back home. During the afternoon we headed for the beach at Les Rotes. Here we swam in the warm sea and enjoyed some beach bouldering. A nice restful day.

Day 5: Another 'full-on' day. We began with a long Via Ferrata on Ponoch. This brought many smiles and much laughter all round. The weather wasn't being so kind today though, with cloud swirling around us for much of the ascent, although this did add to the atmosphere. The clouds cleared briefly when we were at the top and this provided us with big views of the mountain and surroundings. A multi-stage abseil took us easily back to the base.
During the afternoon we went cragging in the nearby Echo valley. With everyone going so well, we almost climbed the whole crag out during our fairly short visit, top effort.

Day 6: Bernia ridge traverse - big day out! An early-ish start for this one saw us walking in before the sun had warmed the air, this allowed a speedy start. We geared up at the 'Forat' then began our ascent to the ridge. A few nerves amongst the team today, especially so once the scale and location start to register! Once on the ridge we were in the sun and pleasantly warm. Movement along the crest soon came naturally to all, and the exposure soon a normal part of the day. Still, concentration levels stayed very high throughout for everyone, big space below the feet tends to have that effect!
We cruised the ridge, the abseils, the climbing section, and then to the descent. Scree run fun, why not? This is a super rapid way to loose height on the northern side of the ridge. Within only about 50m everyone was looking comfortable with the terrain and much laughter could be heard, for this is brilliant fun.
We made it back to base in time for coffees, cake, and beer at the Bernia restaurant. Another awesome day.

Day 7: Yesterday had been a long mountaineering day, and muscles ached a little this morning. So our plan to go cragging to Gandia fit the bill perfectly. The sun was out again, the rock warm, the routes fantastic. Everyone climbed the worm hole route of 'Pequeno Saltemontes' which is so much fun, and made even more so if your name is Lauren or Edd ;-)
This very much became a day of consolidating leading skills for most, with both Jules & Nicola really excelling and ticking loads of routes on the lead. We almost had to drag ourselves away at the end of the day, still so much to do here.

Day 8: Last day for the team and a trip to Aventador crag. This is home to a short and very steep Via Ferrata and that's what we started with. The weather was overcast and cold when we arrived, but thankfully this soon changed to blue skies and sunshine :-)
Jules enjoyed the Via Ferrata so much she went up it again, taking Kate with her. Nice one.
A fine selection of routes were climbed on the main crag, a little multi-pitch action too, and a quality 6a lead for Lauren. Nicola & Edd spent time placing trad gear to help plug the gaps between the bolts. This is a good way to become proficient at this and carries less risk, win win.

Where did the time go, why do you have to go, we'll miss you all so much

Big thanks to: Edd, Lauren, Jules, Nicola, and Richard - an absolute pleasure

Multi-pitch-climbing-Spain
Sonjannika sea cliff
Multi-pitch-climbing-Spain
Top of Sonjannika
Via-ferrata-Costa-Blanca
Ponoch Via Ferrata
Via-ferrata-Costa-Blanca
Ponoch Via Ferrata
Learn-to-lead-climb-outdoors
First outdoor lead route at Echo valley
Bernia-ridge
Bernia ridge
Via-ferrata-Aventador-Costa-Blanca
Aventador
Rock-climbing-course-Spain
Sport climbing skills
Rock-climbing-skills-Costa-Blanca
Multi-pitch skills
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Multi-activity holiday - Costa Blanca

5/11/2014

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Penon de Ifach - Calpe rock
Freshly back from 2 weeks out on the Costa Blanca, the temperature in Ambleside is going to take a little getting used to!
We have been running a multi-activity holiday out there for a group of 5 friends from Leeds. Having previously met Mandeep & Manjit during a climbing session in Langdale, they roped in some of their friends & family to take part in this amazing adventure.

Me & Joe arrived a few days prior to activities starting, this gave us time to re-assess each venue and make final arrangements with accommodation etc. The weather was unbelievably good, with most days being a little too hot! This theme continued throughout the 2 weeks.

So what did we do?
We went rock climbing in the Echo valley.
Canyoning in the Echo valley and to the truly amazing Barranco del Infierno (google it to see more).
We canyoned some more, this time in order to access a hidden beach. The only other access being by boat. We then swam in the warm sea and sun-bathed.
We explored caves in the Cala Moraig sea cliffs.
Went climbing on the Candelabra del Sol sea cliffs (Me & Joe on our day off)!!
We climbed the Via Ferrata on the massive cliffs of Ponoch, surely the most impressive piece of rock in this part of Spain and a world class rock climbing venue.
And to top it all, we hiked to the summit of Penon de Ifach. This is the iconic cliff rising out of the sea near Calpe. 332 metres high but feels much higher.

A big thank you to Mandeep, Manjit, Amarjit, Jaspal, and Rajesh for your great company and willingness to have a go at whatever activity we put in front of you. A real pleasure to know you all.
And of course, mega thanks to Joe for being an integral part of the instructional team for the week and helping to make everything run so smooth.


Mark


The path to Barranco del Infierno - even the walk in is amazing!

Barranco del Infierno

Abseil descent from the Ponoch via ferrata

Ponoch abseil

In the Echo valley canyon - a good warm up day

Canyoning - Costa Blanca

A day at the seaside. Canyon descent to a hidden beach

Hidden beaches of Costa Blanca

Time for a brew by the sea

Time for a coffee - Costa Blanca

Just driving to most places was exciting enough. This shows the Bernia Ridge from Col de Rates. There's a fab cafe here serving amazing cheesecake too.

Bernia ridge - Costa Blanca

Candelabra del Sol, the jewel of the Toix climbing crags.

Magical Mystery Tour - Costa Blanca

Setting off on the Via Ferrata, Ponoch

Via Ferrata - Ponoch, Costa Blanca
Via ferrata - Costa Blanca

In the Barranco del Infierno

Barranco del Infierno - Costa Blanca

On our way to the hidden beach near Cala Moraig.

Canyoning - Costa Blanca
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