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Puig Campana - Sin Nombre

5/2/2022

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#puig-campana-sin-nombre-topo
Sin Nombre
Last Tuesday me and Kim had a big day out on the most iconic mountain in the Alicante region, Puig Campana. We are both fairly familiar with the mountain having climbed a few routes and repeated them all too. Wanting a 'mountaineering' style day out, we naturally choose Puig Campana, but wanted to try a different route. The guidebook has been out of print for many years and route information can be difficult to come by. Two routes of interest were 'Sud Oeste Integral' and 'Sin Nombre'. Both similar grades (5) but we realised that we'd already climbed lots of the Sud Oeste Integral, so opted for Sin Nombre (No Name).

After some research we found a vague topo showing an outline of the 9 pitches. We had no description to accompany this. but felt happy this was enough. 
At a claimed 300m we decided an early start wasn't necessary, so set out from the parking area above Finestrat shortly after 10am and were touching rock by 11am. We were the only climbers on the mountain that day. A late start was to prove an oversight.
As the information we had was limited, I spent time during the approach walk trying to absorb as much information about the route as possible. It was in full view for most of the approach. I could visualise a lot of the climbing and where belays might be, what the 'big ledge' would be like and I also considered potential escape options.

Once on the route the rock felt good, great in fact. Pitch 1 gave really good climbing on sound rock. In fact, much of the climbing was great and on fantastic rock, albeit interspersed with a few hollow / wobbly blocks, typical of a big mountain route.
Pitch 3 gave the first really challenging climbing, but this was well protected so felt good and was interesting. A couple more long-is pitches rambled mostly rightwards, keeping to easier terrain before a final sweep left landed us on the massive mid-way ledge. This was quite different to how I'd imagined it, but spacious and comfortable all the same. It was actually so big, finding the continuation pitches proved a little tricky. We did and away we went again, up the left arete which gave impressive exposure. A hard section followed and I was by now feeling knackered, so asked Kim to take over the lead. She led this upper crux in fine style. The difficulties were now behind us, but more climbing followed, I think 2 long pitches of easy climbing / scrambling before we decided it was time to put the rope away. We had actually come slightly too high and needed to descent to reach the top of Espolon Central where our descent would start.

The original plan was to continue to the summit via The Edwards Finish (VS). Time was no longer on our side, it was already gone 5pm and we had a long way to go to get off the technical terrain. Cables have now been installed for much of the descent from Espolon Central, making retreat this way a little safer and significantly quicker.

We arrived back at the roadside shortly after dark, tired but happy.

Having climbed about 10 pitches and maybe 350m, with challenging route-finding the whole time and being the only climbers up there all day. We felt privileged to have been granted a safe passage up and most importantly back down. We didn't complete our objective to reach the notch high on the mountain, but that will always be secondary to a safe day.

The Puig Campana continues to be an inspiration and will no doubt draw climbers for many years to come. Most routes on there are mountaineering days with all that implies. Any climbers visiting the region on a Costa-clip-up holiday may want to have a look at this place for an alternative day. Expect long pitches, changeable weather, a long and technical descent, spaced protection and occasional loose rock. But what a brilliant adventure :-) 

Mark



#espolon-central-descent-route-puig-campana
Descent for Espolon central and other nearby routes
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Ponoch - Big wall climbing

21/12/2021

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#ponoch-rock-climbing-costa-blanca
The huge Sector Central face of Ponoch
Today we went for a big adventure on the largest crag in the region of Costa Blanca. Although not quite as high or as well known as neighbouring Puig Campana, this is without doubt the most impressive lump of rock in the region. Some routes are 500m+ and all are demanding undertakings, typically with big run-outs and hard climbing.

Having previously climbed the big classic 'Via Valencianos' E1/6a I was keen for more of what Ponoch has to offer but preferred a sport route to ease route finding. When I say 'sport route' what I mean is there are very sparingly placed bolts and equipped belays. That's to be expected on a crag as big as this.
So it was decided we would climb 'Viaje Espacial' a 6a/E1 with the final pitches having either no or very limited fixed gear. We didn't intend to bother with these pitches, but took a trad rack just in case.

Pitch 1 is the same as Valencianos so I knew this one but hadn't led it. I remember it having an interesting move about half way up. This took some working out but once beyond this it was a breeze to the belay on a massive ledge. A short walk right brought us to the base of the next pitch, also a 6a and fairly long at 45m. It tackled a wall directly and felt quite steady.
Pitch 3 headed rightwards and although was a lower grade pitch (5) it felt just as difficult, in fact all pitches felt pretty equal in terms of difficulty. A small belay ledge was reached and by now I was getting really hot from the exertion. I should have taken some time out for food and drink but for some reason decided not to. That was a mistake.

Pitch 4 was simply magnificent giving some of the best climbing I've done in quite some time. Very steep at times and always super exposed. However, by the time I reached the next belay ledge I was feeling wasted and knew I was becoming dehydrated and needed to act. So after a quick re-fuelling break we took the decision to head back down. We were only 1 pitch short of the top but it would have been foolish to continue. Thankfully I soon started to feel much better (top tip, always carry a Go Gel or similar with you) which was helpful as the abseil descent gave us some problem solving to deal with.

We used 2 guidebooks to get information about the route. Firstly the Rockfax Costa Blanca and this was complimented by the local guide 'Ponotx' by Manuel Bernabeu. If wanting to explore this mountain more, it is the local guide you'll be needing, it offers 100 routes, all are full days out. All will be memorable.

There are a few more routes on here I have my eye on, hopefully another will get ticked on this visit so watch this space. Back to some single pitch sport climbing tomorrow :-)

Thanks for reading and thanks to Kim for coming on this adventure with me.

Mark 
​
#climbing-course-ambleside-lake-district
Pitch 4 - this gave some incredible climbing
#el-frare-ponoch-climbing-costa-blanca
The fin of Agulla del Flare
#rock-climbing-course-lake-district-viaje-espacial-ponoch
Route name scratched at the top of pitch 1
#viaje-espacial-ponoch-topo
Topo of the route from the local guide by Manuel Bernabeu. Image copywright - Manuel Bernabeu
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New discoveries - Penyalba

16/12/2021

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#multi-pitch-climbing-course-ambleside
The view towards Mundover from Penyalba crag
The exploration continues here on Costa Blanca, with lots of climbing, cycling, canyoning, and mountaineering. All helping to keep the fitness decent and skills sharp.
A few days ago we went for an explore inland from Gandia, to the mountain of Penyalba. Not only is this a shapely peak, it also harbours a wonderful outcrop of limestone that goes by the same name.
I'd known about this venue for some time now but hadn't got around to visiting until now. Wow it was worth the wait. This is a huge crag set high on the mountain, with routes that finish on the summit, and because of the 30+ minute approach walk the place was deserted and probably always is. This is a shame as the place is magnificent and the climbing we sampled lived up to the location.

The best climb of the day was a 3 pitch 6a which offered continually varied climbing including slabs, cracks, a roof, a small traverse, and an open chimney. So lots of techniques required to see us through.

The weather whilst on the climb had been quite benign, but once up on the plateau that all changed. We were constantly buffeted by gale force winds that threatened to blow us back down the crag. At times we needed 4 points of contact to be safe. It was more like a Cairngorm wind than anything associated with Southern Spain.

As far as we are aware there is no guidebook currently covering this crag. However there are online topos available here:

More recently we discovered another newly equipped climb in the Gandia area. A 7 pitch mountaineering route. This deserves its own entry so keep checking back to find out more.

Thanks for reading

Mark


#guided-climbing-days-ambleside-lake-district
Ann on the first pitch
#rock-climbing-course-ambleside-lake-district
Pitch 2 and about to tackle a roof
#penyalba-crag-gandia-costa-blanca-climbing
Penyalba crag, Gandia
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Erikindia - new route on the Toix sea cliffs

6/12/2021

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#erikindia-sport-climbing-costa-blanca
Looking down on the route on a busy day
A few weeks ago we learnt of a newly bolted climb on the Toix sea cliffs. So it was top of the list to do upon our arrival back in the region. Armed with a topo but no route description, we set off in search of the route. Knowing these cliffs fairly well I already had a good idea of where we would find the abseil anchors, so no time was wasted on this. The anchors have been thoughtfully placed and the abseil in is pretty perfect, as well as extremely dramatic.

When we arrived at the base of the route we couldn't see any bolts and went on a mystery tour leftwards for about 50m before realising this was almost certainly a mistake. Another party of climbers had arrived and I asked them if they could see any bolts, they couldn't either, but suggested if I could see an old wire rope then that was the correct place. I could see the rope so we thought, huh, maybe we were right.
More checking and we found the bolts, they are almost directly back from the abseil landing point, up a sandy gully.

The first pitch felt steep and tricky for a while, I worried a little as this was just the warm up pitch and I was feeling on edge. Thankfully things eased up and the climbing flowed better. The belay station is possibly the most dramatic I have ever been on. Perched on a small ledge and leaning back out over the sea, with waves crashing below. The next pitch gave some trickier climbing, but not as difficult as expected. To start the route goes into a cave then emerges back into the sun for a few steep moves that can easily be bridged. The situation is phenomenal as is the climbing. Yes it's steep, but it is a jug-fest. We ran pitches 2 & 3 together and the final section is much easier but no less dramatic. The finishing moves come through a whole in the top of the cliff and bolts are found on the left.

Whilst on the route a few more parties abseiled in and as we were getting ready to leave, yet more were arriving. This is already a popular route and is set to become a mid-grade classic.

Big thanks to Omar Samper and Vincente Monerris for creating this route and bolting it so well. To read more about their exploits have a look here Erikindia

Erikindia - 6a+
Abseil length = 45m
Pitch 1: 25m 5+ From the sandy gully climb the left wall, soon trending slight right then traversing left. The initial moves are the most difficult and steepest. A hanging belay is reached. Get comfy and enjoy the view. 
Pitch 2: 25m 6a+ Go slightly left then enter the cave, bridge up this to emerge in the sun and continue bridging up steep, juggy terrain on the left side of a chimney (cave). This pitch provides the crux which is steep, but very well bolted. As the angle eases a belay is reached on the right. 
Pitch 3: 20m 5 Continue more easily towards the big hole, this leads to the top of the cliff.
​
Thanks for reading and hope you have found this useful.

Mark


#abseiling-in-to-a-sea-cliff-costa-blanca
Abseiling in to the route
#setting-off-on-erikindia-costa-blanca-climbing
Climber on pitch 1 of Erikindia
#rock-climbing-guide-ambleside-erikindia
Final pitch of Erikindia
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Dreaming of rock climbing.......

28/1/2021

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#climbing-course-instructor-ambleside
Big sea cliffs of Costa Blanca
Blogs have been sparser than usual this autumn / winter. Somehow they feel less relevant, sometimes it even feels wrong to write. With so much going on in the world and so much of the population in some form of lockdown.
We were lucky enough to escape to Spain in mid-October, when it was still allowed and okay to do so. Kate would usually return to the UK around Christmas time to see family, but not this year. And now we are stuck here, although I'll admit it doesn't feel at all bad to be stuck on the Costa Blanca. Restrictions here have tightened, but exercise is permitted with one over person. This can be climbing, walking, mountaineering, running, cycling, swimming, or whatever. Of course it feels right to be particularly safe and stay well within our limits and that is what we are doing. We do fit in the occasional adventurous route though and that has been rather wonderful.

Recently, such an adventurous route was shared with friend Mick. We climbing Diedro UBSA on El Peñon d'Ifach in Calpe. This is a 9 pitch HVS route with bolted belays and bolts on all crux sections. Having climbed the route previously, 4 years ago now, I felt confident in us managing a good time and no dramas. And this was the case.

We started climbing around 10.30am and alternate led throughout. This style of climbing brings maximum efficiency to belay changeovers. We moved at a steady pace, never needing to rush and always enjoying the stupendous surroundings with rock and sea everywhere.
I think it's pitch 7, there is a diagonal abseil. This is an unusual feature mid-climb, but very cool. From the lip of a massive cave we descend about 10m to reach the next belay stance ready for the next pitch. From here there's only a couple of pitches left, but by now we were hot and tired. So even though we were well beyond the harder climbing, this all felt quite intense, and all the more memorable for it. The final pitch involves puling through an overhang and after hundreds of metres of climbing already in our arms, it feels mega wild. Fantastic!

Easy scrambling leads to the summit where many seagulls and cats congregate and try to snatch any food, unattended or otherwise.

A good path leads back into Calpe in about 45 minutes. Giving time to wind down and reflect on the days climbing as the sun goes down.

Despite us feeling that sense of adventure that a big climb brings, everything felt comfortable and controlled. For even though we both have the skills to self-rescue, now is very much not the time for such shenanigans (indeed is there ever a time for it).

Having not climbed a big route for a while, I felt very sore and sorry for myself the following day, but soon enough had fully recovered and ready for more.

Next week could see us on a big route again. If the weather is just right, if restrictions allow, if we feel totally good about it, it will happen. If not, we will wait for the right time.

Climbing, hillwalking, and mountaineering are my life and livelihood. For those of us working in this environment it is important to keep skills current by continual practice. But we understand too that many who venture into the mountains purely for recreation, it is highly important to continue as much as is allowed. If you're in a place where it is allowed and it feels the right thing to do, one should surely go for it. Simply keep in mind to be especially careful and avoid unnecessary risks.

We really really hope to see many of you in the Lake District this season, with fingers crossed for an Easter opening. For many, 2020 was a year to discover more of the UK, we had record visitors to the Lake District and this was wonderful. Remember what an amazing place it is and do visit us again during 2021. We are taking bookings now and these are completely flexible to keep in line with any restrictions that may come into place. We also operate a fair refund policy.

Thanks for reading folks. Stay safe & stay sane.
All the best.

​Mark & Kate


#penon-calpe-rock-climbing
Sunrise beneath El Peñon d'Ifach, Calpe
#outdoor-activities-costa-blanca
Pitch 8 of Diedro UBSA on El Peñon
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Costa Blanca Climbs - new guidebook

23/12/2020

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#costa-blanca-climbing
The newly published guidebook
This is a short review of the newly published guidebook 'Costa Blanca Climbs' by Roberto Lopez.


The important thing to realise is, this is a sport climbing guidebook. There is no trad / semi-sport climbing featured. So if looking for bolted routes in the Costa Blanca region, read on.....


It doesn't take long to realise this is a very well researched guide, with a huge range of crags contained within its 655 pages. Below I've listed a few good points and not so good points.


Pros:
Excellent photos - there really is some outstanding photography that is sure to inspire the reader to get out on the crags.
Well laid out - it isn't uncommon for locally produced guides to be less well thought out and difficult to navigate. Not so here, it's a breeze. I'm very familiar with the Rockfax format and this has a similar feel.
Well researched - as mentioned above, Roberto has clearly put in the time and effort to bring together a very fine and useable book. Plenty photos of local climbers in action too.
The quality of materials and production appears to be high, feels like it will last well. 

Written by a local climber and available for sale in local climbing retailers. So buying this will directly contribute to the local climbing economy.
An extensive volume, with 655 pages. Think Bible size ;-)


Cons:
Big and heavy - 655 pages does mean this thing is heavy! Too big for taking to the crag, more of a coffee table read and take photos on a mobile to take to the crag.
I find the aerial photography for topos a little confusing. It may be I'm simply not used to this. Virtually every crag has a drone topo, feels a bit over the top (no pun intended).
Approach times are very optimistic - maybe they are based on running times! 15 minutes to the top of Magical Mystery Tour for example. That isn't going to happen, it's more like 25 minutes and that's for those who know the way.
Lack of multi-pitch - there are a few multi-pitch routes featured, but not many and those that are tend to be in the higher grades, think 6c and upwards apart from the exception of Morro Falqui. This is a shame as there is so much multi-pitch in the lower & mid grades.
No trad - yes it is a sport climbing guide, of course there's no trad climbing featured. Still this feels sad, as magnificent mountains like Puig Campana and Ponoch (Ponoig) are completely absent as a result. These are the 2 most amazing climbing areas in the region and are world class (they even offer sport climbing). In my opinion they should have been included, even if only a few routes.
Lots of excellent crags/or parts of crags are missing. These tend to be crags offering low-mid grade climbs.

Who is this guide for?
Visiting climbers operating at 6b+ and above looking for purely bolted routes and predominantly single pitch. This is where the guide excels. And it really does excel, let that be clear.
For those operating up to 6a+ and / or wanting some multi-pitch and trad, the Rockfax guide offers more, even if it is a few years old now.


Thanks for reading, I hope it's been helpful.

Merry Christmas everyone, hope it's a good one despite the strangeness of the year.

Mark


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Sea cliffs in the sun - Costa Blanca

2/2/2020

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#parle-costa-blanca
The middle pitch of the ultra classic Parle 6a+
On Thursday I as showing Wayne around the fantastic sea cliffs of Sierra de Toix.
Best known for lots of fine and easy access low - mid grade climbing, Toix is situated on the outskirts of Calpe. We know the crags there really well, having visited many many times. For those in search of more adventure, a walk under the main crags and down to the sea cliffs are in order. That is what Wayne was looking for today, and not one but two of these magnificent routes.

I predicted Parle would offer us more morning shade so despite this being a much more difficult route, we started with that.
The abseil into these climbs is for many the most memorable part of the day, each time I look at the Parle abseil I see why. It's crazy!!
Wayne took this in his stride, and once he was back in the swing of abseiling on a GriGri came down super smooth. We alternate led the route, with Wayne taking 2 pitches while I just led the middle pitch. I don't know how long we took, but not long.
After lunch we walked the very short way to reach the abseil for Magical Mystery Tour and Candelabra Del Sol. Another wild abseil onto ledges above the sea. There was already an abseil rope in place, but this had not been properly equalised so we set up our own using 3 bolt anchors.
After the initial scrambling we climbed the route in 3 pitches, all of which are bolted these days. The belay ledges were sociable as we kept meeting up with a couple of friendly climbers from Benidorm. It was noticeably hotter on this route and we were glad of the easier climbing and even happier to emerge back at the top where cool drinks and comfy shoes waited for us.

Both these routes make for a fantastic day out as does doing them during a single visit. Both a in very atmospheric settings and offer wonderful climbing on excellent quality rock. Both are extremely exposed though, so if that isn't your thing, it would be worth getting more used to exposure prior to a visit.

These are bolted routes, just don't expect a bolt every couple of metres, the well spaced bolts make sure the adventure element is well and truly retained.

Locating the abseil stations are probably the most difficult part of climbing on a sea cliff. These ones are relatively straightforward to find, but can still give some confusion. If considering having a go at these routes but feeling unsure about route-finding / logistics, why not hire a guide for the day. We know these and many more routes really well, will deal with rope management and setting up the abseils, leaving you to simply enjoy the journey.

Thanks to Wayne for the climbing and to all those reading :-)

Mark 


#magical-mystery-tour-costa-blanca-spain
Cruising up Magical Mystery Tour on the Toix sea cliffs
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Via Gene - Cabezon d'Oro

19/1/2020

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#climbing-course-costa-blanca
Kate on the first pitch of Via Gene
This week is starting to feel quite intense, what with a 100km ride over the mountains on the bike, then a big climb up to the summit of Puig Campana, and today a 7 pitch mountain VS on Cabezon d’Oro. Muscles are most definitely starting to have a little grumble!!
 
But hey, it’s absolutely fantastic and we wouldn’t have it any other way.
 
It has been a few years since I first climbed on Cabezon d’Oro, leading 2 friends up the classic line of ‘Via Gene’ a 7 pitch VS going all the way up to the summit ridge. But Kate was yet to climb this route and rather keen, so today we set off south in search of 7 pitch mountain routes.
 
An easy approach walk is always a good start, especially so after Puig Campana yesterday! 30 minutes on good tracks to reach the start, sweet. And no need to remember where the route starts, the name is scratched onto the rock, just gotta love Spain for these fine touches. As a back up I did have a route description with me, but once on the route I recognised it all. The pitch lengths in the Rockfax guide are incorrect and in brief are much closer to:
30m; 35m; 40m; 40m; 35m; 35m; 40m
And the abseils off the back: 35m & 25m
 
I actually made the effort to measure most of these with a degree of accuracy, but they won’t be 100% so if doing this route have either a 70m single of 50m half ropes as an absolute minimum.
 
For the first 3 pitches we were in the shade and with a strong wind blowing were freezing! This wasn’t a good start and not how we imagined the day to pan out. Thankfully, during pitch 4 I climbed into the sun and wow did that made a world of difference, probably doubling the temperature. This was perfect timing as at the next belay ledge we meet all the other climbers on the crag (2 more parties and 5 more climbers in total). This led to a backlog and quite a wait for us. In the warm sun this was no hardship, just gave us time for a food and drink stop and some rest whilst we watched the others on their chosen routes above.
Our route veered abruptly leftwards taking us well out of the way of the other climbers as we traversed into a prominent groove which proved a delight to climb. Another pitch above gave some fantastic exposure whilst following an arête up to big ledges just below the summit ridge. An easy pitch to finish where we found a newly installed abseil station, always a nice sight.
 
As we were climbing on 50m half ropes we just needed 2 abseils to reach the scree gully, so all easy peasy. The descent down the scree is not so pleasing, it is very steep and very loose so great care is needed and still falling over is almost certain! Once beyond the horror show scree it’s back to nice tracks and an easy stroll back to the road.
 
What’s good about this route?
It is a long mountain trad route with only a few bolts at belay stations and a few old pegs to mark the way, so traditional leader placed protection is required. This instantly makes for a more interesting and memorable day out.
Any route of this length is committing and requires forward planning as well as route finding skills, all of which add to the adventure.
An abseil descent always leaves a little uncertainty right to the very end and what is an adventure if not a little uncertain. Will the ropes behave or will they decide to become one with a tree/rock/bush? Thankfully our ropes were kind to us and there were no dramas.
Walking out from the climb at the end of a great day out, we get to look back up and pick out the line of the route. This is something I really love doing, to remember where we were and playback the feelings in my head.
 
Cabezon d’Oro, thank you for a great day out and thanks too to Kate for her good company and much rope sorting and flaking during the day.
 
We offer guiding and instruction in the Lake District and Costa Blanca. If you have a route in mind or want to develop your climbing and mountain skills, get in touch and let’s make a plan.
 
Thanks for reading.
 
Mark 
#mountain-skills-course-lake-district
Ropes flaked and ready to go
#guided-climbing-costa-blanca
Kate nearing the top of pitch 5
#cabezon-d-oro-spain
The huge southwest face of Cabezon d'Oro
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Puig Campana - Roldan's Notch

18/1/2020

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#mountaineering-puig-campana
South face of Puig Campana
The South East summit of Puig Campana
 
Upon seeing the huge Roldan’s Notch on the Puig Campana during my first visit to the Costa Blanca, it was firmly on the ‘to-do’ list to pay it a visit. Anyone even remotely interested in mountains will know why as soon as they see it.
Firstly, the Puig Campana is the most dramatic and shapely mountain in the region, although not quite the highest, that accolade goes to Aitana, its neighbour. Puig Campana, or just ‘The Puch’ as many refer to it, has masses of fantastic rock climbing to offer, and these aren’t little climbs, but generally in the 200m+ category with one route in particular taking in around 1650m of actual climbing as it weaves an intricate route from the very base to the southeast summit.
We’ve done a few routes on these massive faces, and there is still lots more for us to explore on this mountain. This week we added another route to the ‘done that’ list. The Edwards Finish to Espolon Central. This route covers around 500m of ground including some fantastic scrambling terrain as well as 3 fine pitches of climbing at around VS. On previous visitis to the top of the main climbs we’ve always been either too tired or it’s been a little too late in the day to continue and get this route done.
So that all changed this week, as we hatched a plan to stand on the southeast summit and more importantly, stand in Roldan’s Notch – if you’ve seen the notch you’ll just know, if you haven’t please do have a Google of it – the absolutely massive gash in the top of the mountain. This is just a wow place, I was struggling for words and still am.
 
So what was the route like?
The Edwards Finish – Very Severe
We started from the top of Espolon Central and scrambled over pinnacles for about 200m. These took us to very exposed terrain and for this reason we roped up and moved together in Alpine style. The pinnacles could be avoided on the right, but this would be missing the point, on mountain routes it’s the positions that make the day, so get in the best ones, always. Towards the end of this scrambling section, the exposure became quite breath taking, I think possibly the most exposed place I have ever been, and there have been quite a few!
Now for the climbing. An easy but wildly exposed pitch to start and takes us up to a big chock stone. The next pitch tackled a clean wall of fine rock before following a blunt rib, this was difficult to follow. The final climbing pitch was another good one, up a wall at about 4a/b to easier ground and a levelling. From here onwards we soloed up to the southeast summit and took our first close up glimpse into the mystical notch, wow! It was actually a bit scary and certainly very humbling to be so small in such a massive feature.
An easy path led us into the notch and at last we stood at the base of it, dwarfed and insignificant, but feeling pretty amazing.
Looking inland we spied the Castellets ridge, which was far below and looked tiny, as did the crags of Sella. Only the massive walls on El Divino and Aitana looked at all impressive from up here.
During our descent we happened upon a bivi spot which looked really nice. 1 abseil of 25m took us onto easier terrain leading into the big gully which we joined for the epic descent.
 
What a day, they don’t get as good as this very often. Big thanks to Neil for joining me on this adventure.
​
Mark 

#the-edwards-finish-espolon-central
Neil on the initial pinnacles
#roldan's-notch-puig-campana
Roldan's Notch
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Moving on in sport climbing - Costa Blanca

18/11/2019

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#lead-climbing-course-costa-blanca
Cruising a route at Toix Oeste
Over the past couple of days we’ve been introducing Marco & Marjolein to the delights of multi-pitch climbing. Both already accomplished sport climbers whom had already been on an outdoor climbing course with our good friend Vicky Foxwell.
Now ready to move on from single pitch sport to longer routes, including those with abseil approaches and descents. There are a lot of new skills needed to move on to bigger climbs in a safe way, but with a good skill base, two days is enough to get things started.
 
We spent both days on the crags of Sierra de Toix on the outskirts of Calpe. With a wide selection of low – medium grade climbs up to around 100m and many involving abseil descents, this makes for a perfect crag for anyone looking to progress to multi-pitch climbing.
 
As mostly Marco would be the lead climber, we focused on setting up belays based on block-leading. This means using a sling to equalise the bolt anchors and usually belaying directly from the ‘master point’. As well as repeating this a number of times during the climbing day, we managed to fit in 3 abseil descents, one being a multi-stage abseil.
 
Day two revisited some topics from yesterday, then built on them. We began building belays using only the rope, so a more complex procedure, but well worth knowing and very useful. More abseil descents again, with Marco and Marjolein taking control to set these up. As the day progressed some crag rescue scenarios were introduced so the couple have a base of knowledge in case things don’t always go to plan. Dealing with a jammed belay device, ascending a rope, simple hauls, releasing a ‘Reverso’ type belay device and more all being covered.
 
We didn’t quite get the standard warm Costa Blanca weather, but the sun did join us and when the wind abated it really was more like t-shirt weather. The mix of sun, cloud, and mountains really is glorious from this crag too.
 
Big thanks to Marco and Marjolein for joining us, it’s been a pleasure and lots of fun. And thanks to Vicky for pointing these lovely people in our direction.
 
Happy climbing
Mark  




#rock-climbing-course-spain
Equalising belay anchors using the rope whilst on a 2 pitch climb
#climbing-holiday-costa-blanca
Climbers enjoying 'Cliber' 5+ on another sunny day in Spain
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