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Rock climbing course - Costa Blanca

4/11/2019

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#rock-climbing-javea
Enjoying fine slab climbing and a stunning backdrop at Ambolo crag
It's been super busy over the last few weeks, and over the last few days Jo and Michelle have  joined us for an introduction to leading on sport climbs. Where better to do this than Costa Blanca. Perfect rock, lots of bolts, quiet crags, and lots of sunshine.

I met Jo and Michelle in the Lakes and dropped into the conversation that we also offer courses in Costa Blanca during the cooler months. This appealed, as it does to so many Brits and Northern Europeans. The promise of sunshine, blue skies, even a warmish sea, and 1000's of great climbs to try as well as great walking, running, cycling, via ferrata and more. What's not to like.

The plan was to spend most of our time at the crags so that rapid development could take place whilst climbing and leading a variety of routes around the region. Mixed in with this would be some trail running. Helps to break up the climbing and give other muscles a workout whilst resting fingers.

We spent our first day at Ambolo crag near Javea. This has very easy access and is in the most wonderful of settings, rising sharply out of the azure sea. Grades are from 4 so plenty to get us started and a feel for the rock. Today was all about seconding routes and getting a taste of the area and what's on offer. Later in the day we had a trail run over Cap de Sant Antoni to Javea finishing in a lovely little cafe with a terrace over the sea :-)

For the next day we headed inland to a more mountainous area and climbed at Cerezos crag near Tarbena. There was a progression to leading today, with both displaying good control whilst on the sharp end. Lots of practice was had threading the anchors, indeed we also spent over an hour on this before heading out today, time well spent. Whilst there was less climbing today, the mental game of leading meant both Jo and Michelle were pretty exhausted, so no running for us this evening.

Day 3 we stayed more local again, this time to the ever popular Alcalali crag in the Jalon valley. With quick and easy access, great views and a wide variety of climbs, it's easy to see why so many flock to this one. Both led a couple of the shorter routes here and really enjoyed the big holds they offer. A nice ledge system at the top makes for comfortable rethreading. We then moved on to a much longer climb and at a slightly higher grade. Both also led this in good sport climbing style. During the ascents we were able to go through quite a variety of skills for the safe ascent of any sport climbing pitch. The heat of the day meant we called time early (Alcalali can get very hot), so after a rest and dip in the pool back at base, we headed out for another trail run. This time straight from the house and up to the Tres Molinos (3 windmills) above Jesus Pobre.  

Day 4 and we aimed for yet another local crag (yes there really are lots of local crags), Font d'Axia this time. This crag has morning shade so perfect for us after our roasting yesterday! 4 more routes led and probably the hardest lead of the trip, nice one Michelle. When starting out lead climbing, every route can feel exhausting, so getting 4 done in little more than a morning is pretty good going and no surprise Jo & Michelle are feeling tired by now. So back to base for some sunbathing by the pool whilst we recap on the trip and look to the future.

A bonus morning back at Ambolo. A late evening flight means more time to go climbing, and at the request of Jo and Michelle, we are back at Ambolo this morning. Just enough time for a couple of routes, one being a repeat and one a new route. Some good consolidation today, with both climbing well, leading well, and rethreading at the anchors with confidence.

Are you looking for a winter sun sport climbing trip and want to learn some skills or be shown some amazing crags and places. Or maybe it's some trail running you're keen to try, or canyoning, via ferrata, a ridge scramble maybe? If you would like any help or guidance please do get in touch and we'll put a plan together based on your preferences.

Thanks to Jo and Michelle for a grand few days in the sun and to all reading this.

Mark

​
#rock-climbing-costa-blanca
Another fantastic day at the crag
#trail-running-costa-blanca
Single track descent into Javea from Cap de Sant Antoni
#climbing-course-for-beginners
Leading a well bolted route at Ambolo
#guided-walking-costa-blanca
More wonderful views on our way back from a days climbing
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More fantastic climbing - Costa Blanca

21/10/2019

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#costa-blanca-rock-climbing
Enjoying the superb atmosphere at Ambolo crag
During the last few days we've made two visits to the coastal crags of Ambolo. I say crags in plural, as there are now more sectors. With funding from the local authorities, many more routes have been bolted, these range from 4+ into the 7's so something for everyone.
Another brilliant addition to the crags are multi-pitch climbs. I often thought it would make a good venue for this, clearly others shared those thoughts and have added a few longer routes, these are in the lower grades too, so can be enjoyed by relative newcomers to the sport.

So on the opposite side of the headland to sector Voodoo etc, there is a small path leading over the wall, this continues steeply down to the newly developed sectors. Take great care accessing these areas as the path is very exposed! The walk here offer climbs from 4+ upwards on some wonderfully featured limestone. Definitely worth a visit.

Back to sector Voodoo side of the headland, we continued all the way down to the waters edge and geared up here and stashed our bags out of sight. We then traversed (rightwards looking out to sea) over rocky ground with a couple of fixed ropes. About 125m of this fun scrambling leads to a small ledge below 'Catharsis Somital' 4+/5. There is a bolted belay station to the right of this and a name plate at the base of the route. The first pitch is 4+ and gives the best of the climbing on a long pitch of around 33m. A bolted belay station can be found at the top. From here we continued on to the upper pitch, which was slightly more difficult, but alas shorter at only 15m. With a 100m of rope it would be possible to abseil back down the line in one, as our rope is shorter we abseiled in 2 stages.

With a mix of hot sunshine and cooling breeze, waves crashing below us and jet skiers in the bay, this was a memorable climb for all the right reasons. Although this looks like the best of the multi-pitch offerings at the crag, there are more and they will be worth exploring. Watch this space for more info coming soon....

Thanks to Ann and Tricia for joining me on these adventures.

Mark
#rock-climbing-near-javea-spain
On the exposed approached to some of the climbs at Ambolo
#costa-blanca-climbing
Another sunny day at the crag!
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Short break winter sun climbing

29/12/2018

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#costablancaclimbingholiday
Enjoying warm rock in stunning locations
Over the last few days we've been joined by Andzelika and Eugeniusz, on their 3rd climbing trip to the area, great to see you both :-)
Looking for a relaxing yet active holiday, they opted for 3 half day climbing sessions with us. So still plenty time to explore and relax away from the crags.
We got plenty of climbing done still, with visits to Alcalali crag in the Jalon valley, to Ambolo crag on the coast near Javea, and yesterday at L'Ocaive crag which is our local venue. The sun joined us for much of the time, but yesterday it stayed at home and we even had some rain!! Thankfully L'Ocaive offers some 'dry in the rain' climbs, so we were able to finish the afternoon enjoying one of these and staying completely dry, yeah! I lost count of the total number of routes we climbed over the 3 days, but it certainly seemed like quite a lot, I think muscles were pleasantly tired by the end of each session, always a good sign.  
​
Thanks both and lovely to see you. Hopefully catch up soon back in the Lakes.

Mark

#rockclimbingwintersun
Big blue skies over Ambolo crag, Javea
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Rock, glorious rock......and run!

5/2/2018

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#costablancaclimbingsonjannika
In the cave belay on Sonjannika
For the last few days we've been out rather a lot and enjoying different venues each time. On Wednesday, Joe joined us again and it's been all action since.
A few hours after alighting the aeroplane at Alicante airport we had Joe on the big sea cliffs of Morro Falqui, here we enjoyed the classic 'Sonjannika' under bright blue skies. Just the tonic Joe needed after a winter in a grey middle England.

Thursday was spent at the secluded Viudes crag near Tarbena. This is high in the mountains yet feels and is sheltered, making it a good choice on chilly days too so long as the sun is shining, which it was. We climbed a number of very long single pitch routes here, until the sharp rock talked to our fingers and mentioned it was time to stop!

Friday brought a spell of inclement weather, so we had a recharge day, managed some climbing based retail therapy and squeezed in a Via Ferrata. Not bad hey.

On Saturday we welcomed the return of sunshine and spent the day at the nearby Pena Roja (Lliber) crag. Also joined by more friends we became a team of 5. I think the highlight for Joe & Miguel was the wonderful 6a+ route of La Llibertine. This is glorious jug pulling through steep terrain the whole way, magnificent.

For most of us Sunday was a rest day. For Kate things were somewhat different. 21km of mountain & trail running in the local 'fell race'. This race is part of the Pedreguer festivities weekend (one of numerous such weekends) and there were hundreds of competitors. As is normal here, the race is a big deal and well catered, with great organisation and a friendly / party atmosphere to it. Loads of families and folk of all ages out supporting competitors.
After quite a late night and not a great deal of sleep, Kate felt nervous about the race, but the nerves were unfounded, she won her age category and came in 8th lady overall. A sterling effort indeed, well done Kate :-)

Today (Monday) Joe was climbing with Ann whilst I showed Andzelika & Eugene the fine crags of Ambolo. Situated near to Javea and perched above a tiny cove with wonderful views out over the sea, this place is worth visiting for the non-climber. But if you do climb, well there's even more reason to come check it out. The rock is wonderfully sharp, pocketed Limestone. All the routes are single pitch and well bolted, starting at about 10m and the longest being around 30m. Best enjoyed during sunny afternoons and stay long enough to watch the sunset, well worth it.  
​
It's a busy week ahead here so there'll no doubt be another blog on it's way before too long.

Thanks for reading. If there's anything we can help with, information about routes etc please feel free to get in touch anytime. We also still have some availability for guided days here in Costa Blanca between now and the end of March. From early April we will once again be back in the beautiful Lake District with all our usual offerings. We hope to see you here, or there. 
​
Mark & Kate

#rockclimbingholidaycostablanca
Joe cruising through steep ground on the magnificent 'La Libertine' at Pena Roja
#wildflowersofspainalcalaliblossom
Blossom is out in the Jalon valley and surrounding areas
#trailrunningcostablanca
Kate taking 1st place in the female vets category - awesome stuff!
#rockclimbingnearjaveacostablanca
Spot the climber - Ambolo crag, Javea
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Lead rock climbing course - Hot rock!

6/1/2018

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#rockclimbingleadcoursespain
Rachel leading at Murla crag in the Jalon valley
During the autumn Asti contacted us to book a rock climbing course for herself and two friends Rachel and Sylvia. None had climbed in this part of Spain before and for Sylvia it was to be her first time climbing outdoors, exciting times.

We had 2 and a half days to fit lots into, and we did.
Meeting at Sierra de Toix on Wednesday afternoon, everyone seconded a few routes up to 6a. We stayed until dark, taking time to watch the amazing sunset over Sierra Helada and Benidorm.

For Thursday we stayed local to our base in Llosa, choosing Alcalali crag for the morning.With a good mix of leading and seconding, and time spent on technical instruction, this was a very productive morning. By lunchtime, the crag had become busy, and hot! So we retreated to the coast and a little known venue near Javea. Overlooking a small bay by the sea, and with a good selection of quality climbs this proved to be the perfect afternoon crag for the girls. Everyone climbed 3 routes, including more lead climbing too. Then it was time for some exploration of the nearby cove and seashore, it's a holiday after all :-)
Again we stayed for sunset and a darkish walk back to the roadside, fully making use of all the day.

For the final climbing day we stayed local again, this time Murla crag. The aim was to get plenty more leading done, so Murla works well for this, being a short crag, with easy access and friendly bolting. Lead climbs were achieved up to 6a, awesome!
The hot sun began to take its toll and with the arrival of a couple of friends, we retreated to a cafe. But no ordinary cafe. The amazing cake is only topped by the incredible sunsets from Coll de Rates. This was a fitting way to conclude the course, in a relaxed style but with a great sense of achievement felt by all.

Big thanks to Asti, Rachel, and Sylvia. A pleasure to meet you and we hope to see you all for more crag adventures soon.

Mark 

#rockclimbingcoursespain
Asti leading on the wonderful rock of Ambolo crag
#costablancarockclimbing
Rachel at the top of a 6a -- check out the blue sky :-)
#costablancarockclimbingcourse
Sunset from Coll de Rates after another brilliant day of Rock climbing
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Ambolo - the climbing gem of Javea

29/12/2017

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#costablancarockclimbing
Kate making a 1st lead ascent of 'Angel' at Ambolo
Over the last few days we've been really busy at the small, but impressive Ambolo  crags of Javea.
I was there initially with an experienced 'route developer' Andy. He kindly gave me instruction on how to prepare and equip a route ready for climbing. This is a time consuming and expensive activity (top quality bolts don't come cheap). In the process, we cleaned and bolted a brand new rock climb which I later named 'So long Alan' in memory of my uncle.

A couple of days later I returned to Ambolo with Kate and our friend Miguel. By now we had a bag of marine grade bolts & hangers and all the tools needed to equip more routes.
There were 2 short routes I had in mind for starters. These would be straightforward, so a good place for us to 'cut our teeth' with bolting.
I installed the lower off (this bit is tricky) and from this was easily able to equip the rest of the route. I named this one 'Gwen' who had been with us on our previous visit and spotted the route.

Now for Miguel to have a go! He had spotted a nice looking rising traverse and very efficiently had this equipped in no time at all. His route is named 'Angel'.

All 3 routes are on the Sector Voodoo left hand crag and graded about f5 - but please let us know what you think if you go and climb any of them.

Today me & Kate returned to Ambolo to climb these new routes and a few others too.
We managed 8 routes in total and enjoyed all of them. The rock is super sharp, positive Limestone and excellent quality. The climbs are up to about 20m high and most have good / excellent protection.
In case this isn't enough, the approach walk is all of about 2 minutes and views out over the sea are spectacular. There is a small cove below the crags, so climbing can easily be combined with swimming or sunbathing.

There is at least one more line we'd like to develop at Ambolo, possibly more. But what's on offer at the moment makes a visit well worthwhile. 
 
If you'd like more information about this great crag or would like rock climbing guidance / instruction, please don't hesitate to get in touch with us anytime. We're more than happy to help.

Thanks for reading.

Happy New Year everyone!

​Mark

​
#costablancanewrockclimbs
Miguel feeling at home with the drill!!
#costablancaparadiseforrockclimbers
Sunset from Ambolo crag
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