Category: Alcalali Crag

More amazing ridges of Costa Blanca

26/11/2018

A clear view of the abseil hole!

This week we made a return visit to the magnificent Cresta del Canelobre on Cabezon d'Oro (mountain with a head of gold)! Recent years have seen more equipping of the ridge and now an easier way onto it exists.

A short via ferrata just above the car park leads very quickly up onto the ridge. Although easy, it's worth considering protecting this section, either with VF lanyards, or by pitching with rope. Once on the ridge follow it leftwards, bolts mark the route. About 4 easy pitches lead to an equipped abseil station. Whilst it's possible to continue along the entire ridge, a fun alternative is to abseil here, a 50m abseil leads through the massive hole to another abseil to scrambling ground under the sport climbing area.

This whole trip can be done in around 2 hours 30 minutes, so even feasible as an airport day for those on holiday.

The first section of ridge is equipped, although no belay stations are currently in place. After this a small selection of trad' gear will prove useful for occasional protection and building belays, should these be required.

For more information or guiding days that we can provide please don't hesitate to get in touch

The initial via ferrata equipped section leading to the ridge

Looking back along part of the crest - Alicante city in the distance

The abseil off the ridge

The main attraction of Costa Blanca for us is the sheer diversity on offer. One day we can be on a committing trad' climb in the mountains, next day enjoying exposure on the sea cliffs, then a via ferrata, maybe mix in a big ridge traverse, and let's not forget the canyons, the beautiful mountain walking, DWS, and beaches. And for the climber, bring it all back to the humble single pitch 'sport' crag.
Alcalali crag shines as such a venue, and we feel super lucky it's only a 5 minute drive from our winter base. With climbs here ranging from grade 3 up to the mid 7's there's something to keep most happy. It's also a sunny and sheltered venue, making it perfect for winter sun seekers, oh and the view.... well don't just take our word for it, come see.

Alcalali crag - well bolted, roadside, great rock, beautiful setting - ticks a lot of boxes then!

Sport rack ready for action

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Sport climbing holiday - Costa Blanca

8/11/2018

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Enjoying perfect rock and big blue skies, in November! Los Cerezos crag

This week we welcomed back Rachel and Naz this week for 4 action packed days of rock climbing. Starting at the nearby crag of Alcalali, we blasted through 7 routes on day one. The day was bright and sunny yet the crag was pretty quiet, we certainly had the pick of routes. As the sun fell low in the sky and the crag began to glow, a big group of climbers arrived for the golden hour as the sunset. It was almost time for us to pack up, so we could enjoy some entertainment from fellow climbers as we did so.

For our second day we headed for the coast and Toix crags. Rachel having visited Toix a few times already we decided on a different sector, so went to Toix Tropical Dreams. With temperatures soaring it certainly felt tropical!
We cruised through 4 long routes and finished with an abseil. Always good to include some skills during a day out climbing.

For day 3 there was a slightly uncertain weather forecast, so we again headed for the coast and this time to Morro Falqui. Climbing a couple of harder routes before the rain arrived, then finishing off the climbing with an easier (and dry) climb called ‘Coming Out’. We finished the day with some scrambling along the nearby sea cliffs, another grand day out.

Rachel was keen to revisit Los Cerezos crag near Tarbena, so we went here on their last day. We had the whole crag, well probably the whole valley, to ourselves, meaning it was an incredibly peaceful day. The sun blasted onto the crag all day too and it would have been very easy to just lie around and sunbathe. We cruised through I think either 6 or 7 routes, most being 30+m long too, so a good mileage day. We finished up as the sun dripped below the hills and cool air engulfed the valley, perfect timing again.
Stopping once or twice whilst walking back, just to breath in the atmosphere, the fresh air, and the peacefulness.

More great days with lovely people :-)

Mark

Late afternoon light on Alcalali crag, only five minutes from our Costa Blanca base

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Multi-activity holiday, Costa Blanca

24/3/2018

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Cala Testos - always a pleasure and privilege to visit

It's been another super busy week here, with 6 lovely people visiting us from the chilly North East of England. In search of winter sun and adventure they certainly chose the right place. On this occasion the adventure started a little earlier than intended, at the airport!! A broken aeroplane led to delays and diversions, but thankfully everyone made it to Spain.

We started with a rock climbing session at the nearby Alcalali crags. This was a welcome tonic, to be outdoors, in the sunshine, and touching real rock. To round off the day we took a walk through the local hills around Llosa de Camacho.

Day 2 was a big one! Barranco del Infierno canyon trip. A chilly wind blew today, this helped cool us during the approach walk, but was then thankfully lacking once in the depths of the canyon, perfect. With about 10 abseils into increasingly wonderful scenery, this definitely touched the spot for everyone and I think became the highlight of the holiday.

Day 3 brought along a few aching muscles, so a beach day had been planned. But no ordinary beach. We were heading to Cala Testos via a short canyon descent. As is often the case, the beach was deserted and felt just as paradise should, wonderful in every way.

Thursday brought a mix of activities to make for a true Mountain Journey. Walking from Llosa de Camacho, following trails through the ancient groves over to Font d'axia where we enjoyed an afternoon of rock climbing in the sunshine. We had the whole place to ourselves once more, so only the sound of Bees, Birds, and Owen sending another tough climb!!

Friday comes around too soon again! We spent the day by the coast, rock climbing at Toix crags. About 7 routes in all, including a new addition to the crag, courtesy of Andy Hedgecock. The sun belted down on us today and by mid afternoon we retreated to the ice cream parlours of Calpe, well why not? A walk under the mighty Penon to round off another fantastic week here on Costa Blanca.

We'd heard of a local medieval market going on today (Saturday), so headed over to check it out. It was pretty special, taking over the whole village, with stalls selling all-sorts, including lots of freshly produced and very likely locally grown food. Geese roaming the streets, Donkeys too. Folk dressed up in medieval costume, and medieval memorabilia on display.
Only a few days left here for us this season, then it's back to the beautiful Lake District and hopefully a long, hot summer in the mountain there :-)

Thanks to Michael, Andi, Dean, Michelle, Owen, and Robert.

Mark

The narrows of Barranco del Infierno

En-route to our Barranco del Infierno adventure

Enjoying the great climbing at Alcalali crag

Climbing in glorious sunshine at Toix crag

Colourful medieval market in Lliber

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Guided rock climbing & coaching week, Costa Blanca

12/11/2017

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Enjoying the perfect limestone of Alcalali crag

For Joe this was to be a return visit to the area and a well earned break from the cold, damp Staffordshire moors. For Kerry, this was a completely new area to discover, having travelled widely but not to this part of Spain – why ever not?!
Both shared a common goal. To climb lots and feel more confident on the sharp end, leading rock climbing routes. Having a great time was in there too.

We had an itinerary mapped out, but had lots of other possibilities on tap so as to keep in line with everyone’s needs.

Day 1: Alcalali crag – only 5 minutes from our base in Llosa de Camacho, this roadside venue is home to a wide variety of top quality single pitch sport climbs from grade 4 – 7. We warmed up on a few 4’s before moving to 5’s. The afternoon was hot and after 6 big pitches of climbing we called it a day, heading back to Llosa and the sun terrace.

Day 2: Bovedon crag, Gandia – Anyone flicking through the Rockfax guidebook for Costa Blanca will be forgiven for dismissing Bovedon as a crag that’s out of reach for most climbers. The routes described are all in and around the massive cave and grades start at 7 before quickly moving on to 8’s. Most visitors to the area are not climbing at such a high standard. Since the guidebook was published, a number of nearby crags have been developed and this area now boasts lots of top quality climbs from 4 upwards, so very good news for anyone operating around grades 5 & 6.
We climbed 6 more routes at Bovedon today, with leads of up to 6a+, top effort! We also enjoyed the crag to ourselves so had the pick of any routes we wanted.

Topping out on Sonjannika, Morro Falqui

Day 3: Sonjannika, Morro Falqui – A change from single pitch sport climbing to more commiting things on big sea cliffs. This 170m 6 pitch beauty gives some of the best climbing in the area. Whilst still being a bolted route, the bolts are very spaced so more care is required with both route finding and body position and technique. I climbed with Kerry and Kate climbed with Joe, we all alternate led, with joe & Kerry leading us up the crux pitch to the top. There were 2 climbers ahead of us, but apart from that it felt like we had the whole crag and coastline to ourselves. The top is reached all too quickly, but at least we left it until afternoon to start so we enjoyed the setting sun as we topped out.

Day 4: L’Ocaive crag – Tired muscles and fingers today and a late start had been planned. L’Ocaive is within walking distance of our house in Llosa de Camacho and visible from the terrace. Dismissed by many climbers as either too hard or simply unattractive. Neither could be further from the truth. The huge orange cave is the centrepiece of the crag and is indeed mega hard. The big grey slabs to the left offer more amenable climbing from 4+ and whilst they do appear vegetated, the rock is clean, solid, and provides some excellent routes. The crag stays in the shade until around 2pm so is perfect for warmer days. We ticked 4 long routes from 4+ - 6b. Starting late allowed us a late finish too and a sunset at the crag, which is beautiful.

Kerry working through the moves of 'Orange Express' 6b at Bolulla Raco Roig

More amazing climbing at Bolulla Raco Roig

Mark, Kim, Kerry, Joe (showing off his taped up fingers!), and Don at Bolulla crag

Day 5: Bolulla Raco Roig – The final climbing day of the trip and realistically needed to be a rest day, but that’s never going to happen on the last day, right.
So instead we opted for a high crag with more of a walk-in to reduce the amount of climbing time to a sensible level.
You may be thinking, why go for a longer approach walk with so many roadside venues in the area. Anyone who has visited Raco Roig will already know the answer. 25 minutes of easy walking along a mountain track and we’re in the most magnificent setting, arguably the finest single pitch crag setting in the Costa Blanca with stupendous views into the canyon, of the Bernia ridge, and out to sea. But what’s the climbing like I hear you say. Immaculate limestone with friendly spaced bolting. Joe ticked his first 6b in Spain! But it was the long, sustained 6a+ he cruised that was the highlight and best single pitch route of the trip ‘Sinfonie Fur Simi’. A 3 star route through and through. Beware the sharp rock up here, we’ve already painted some of it red!
As the sun moved across the crag and shade quickly followed, we ran away in time for coffee & cake at the Coll de Rates.
For the last night out and a special treat we made the short journey to Castell de Castells and the amazing food of Mirco & Paula at their restaurant ‘Castell de Ines’. We can’t speak highly enough of the food and passion to be found in this restaurant, simply unique. I’ve been to Ambleside’s finest restaurants over the years and none come close for overall experience. Don’t just turn up and expect to be fed though, booking is essential.

With winter fast approaching, some will be turning their thoughts to snow and ice along with the vagaries of Scottish winter. Others will be missing the rock. For anyone looking to experience rock climbing, mountain walking, canyoning, ridge scrambles, or via ferrata, and would like some sunshine & warmth mixed in, why not get in touch and let us put together an itinerary to suit you.

Big thanks to Kerry, Joe, Kim, and Ann for joining us this week :-)

Mark & Kate

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Multi-activity week - Costa Blanca

4/11/2017

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Jenni, Francie, and Lauren about to abseil after the Ponoch Via Ferrata

It's been a hectic and hugely fun week for us here. We welcomed back the Hewett family and friends for multi-activities and adventures and all things rock in Costa Blanca :-)
Now with 2 small babies, activities were going to need some flexibility from all sides, so I had lots of plan b's (even more than usual) this week.

As a gentle warm up we all enjoyed a walk to Les Arcs, to see the dramatic rock arches above Castell de Castells. This was followed with an afternoon of Rock climbing at the Viudes crag near Tarbena, which we had all to ourselves.

For Monday things got a bit more exciting, with a descent of the Barranco del Pas Tancat, near Bolulla. Having only fairly recently discovered this amazing place I was keen to share the experience with others and knew it would be enjoyed by the team. To allow for childcare to work out we ran 2 trips during the day so everyone got to experience the canyon.

Tuesday was to be an adventure day on the mighty Ponoch. We scaled the mountain using the in-situ Via Ferrata to quickly and easily gain height. This activity can be enjoyed by anybody who is fit and has a head for heights. It's a lot of fun (see the photos) and has a fast pace to it.

Wednesday was spent at the nearby crag of Alcalali. This crag typifies Costa Blanca sport climbing, with well bolted, top quality climbs looking out over a stunning valley and within 5 minutes of the car park. Good climbing progression shown by all and Edd giving us a finale on a long and sustained 6c, top effort!

Thursday saw a last minute change of plan as 2 more friends joined the group. Jenni & Francie were keen to have an adventure rather than go rock climbing with the others. So after some discussion and along with Lauren too, 4 of us headed back to the Ponoch Via Ferrata to scale this huge mountain. Smiles all round at the top, well done all.

Friday has arrived all too quickly and the last day of their holiday :-(
So let's make the most of it and get back out on the rock. This time to another fairly newly developed sport climbing venue near Gandia. Ultra sharp rock, closely spaced bolts, sun and shade, and superb views over Orange groves to the mountains beyond, there's a lot going for this place. Everyone excelled, with some impressive leads, especially so from Jules and Charlie. The babies were able to play in the shelter of a nearby cave (it was a very hot day), so enjoyed shade and cooler temps as well as watching some impressive locals on the super steep routes going through the roofs!!

Friday night is music night at Emilios Bar here in Llosa de Camacho, and the fantastic Gas Monkeys were playing tonight. Really good music until way passed my bed time. The early morning flight didn't seem to deter anyone from keeping the barman company until rather later ;-)

Sad to be saying goodbye to these beautiful people once again. Safe travels all, and especially so for Edd & Charlie who set sail for the Falkland Islands in a few days time!

Mark & Kate

Maybe you're looking for an activity week and would like to get off the beaten track. Or want to escape the UK winter and find warm sunshine. If so, get in touch and let us take you on some adventures

Abseil tuition in the Barranco del Pas Tancat

Another long abseil in the canyon

The afternoon team enjoying the canyon

Amazing surroundings whilst in the canyon

Kim introducing the Ponoch Via Ferrata

Enjoying the mountains on Ponoch Via Ferrata

Gen cruising up the Ferrata

Charlie taking a rest in the cave

Enjoying a peaceful day at the crag. Great climbing on super sharp and grippy Limestone

Viudes crag near Tarbena. Quality routes in a beautiful setting rising above the Almond grove

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Rock climbing grades - what's all the fuss about?

13/1/2017

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The smile says it all. Colin at 72 and still loving the climbing :-)

There’s some amazing rock climbers in the world, we hear them talk about grades that for most of us might as well not exist. Those of you who know me will know I’m no grade chaser, in fact it’s quite the opposite, grades don’t matter. Or do they?
It’s the people, the location, the atmosphere, the moves, the exposure. That’s where the enjoyment of rock climbing comes. I’m certainly sticking by that and always will.
The saying goes, ‘the best climber is the one having the most fun’. I think is an important quote to remember. Never mind what you’re red-pointing or on-sighting, just enjoy the being.
Over the last few months I’ve witnessed great joy from a climber lead a grade 4 sport route and another climber kick themselves about not cleanly leading a 7b. One was happy, the other not.

However, these numerical grades exist so we can measure ourselves against others and ourselves. We can keep track of our improvement, if we want to.
So where’s this all going? Well, I’ve decided to start pushing myself a bit harder in a bid to improve my personal climbing.

Currently being a pretty average climber and have operated around the 6a+ sport / HVS range for a few years. Some of the people I’ve climbed with in recent months have been operating well above that level, so the opportunity was there to have a go at some much harder climbs. How were they? Much harder of course! Often not enjoyable, but usually there was an element of fun lurking in there somewhere.
Having seconded some of these routes, I thought why not try leading harder climbs? What’s the worst that can happen? Failure!!!
But anyone who ever tried can never be accused of failing. Not trying is the failing. But having a go and not quite managing it, that adds to our experience and development.
So whilst at a local crag yesterday, I picked a route that would offer a massive challenge, an overhanging 6C. Oh dear!!

To protect from a ground fall, the 2nd bolt was pre-clipped, but after that I was on my own. Looking at the route prior to the ascent I thought maybe I was mad! But I began to program my brain to accept what was about to happen, this route would be climbed, I wouldn’t fall off, all would be well, and it would be fun.
Pulling through the low bulge felt brutally hard and I did fall a few times. However, once on the upper wall things began to flow much better and very soon I was clipping the lower off, success.

Feeling pretty chuffed, I decided to see if this was a fluke, so picked out another 6C, this time the route overhung even more, the initial moves looked quite improbable and this time a fall, even with a pre-clipped bolt, would have probably meant a ground fall or very close. But I wasn’t really thinking of that, I was in ‘the zone’ and this route would also be climbed, this time in better style with less falling.

Something that's especially relevant when pushing harder physically, is the necessity to warm up properly beforehand. Spend a few minutes stretching and doing some more gentle exercise, this will help prevent strain injuries.

And remember, It’s the people, the location, the atmosphere, the moves, the exposure. That’s where the enjoyment of rock climbing comes. A classic 'diff' on a Gritstone edge, or mountain 'v'diff' in the Lakes can and so very often do make for fantastic routes and the best days out.

Thanks for reading

Mark

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More amazing ridges of Costa Blanca

Sport climbing holiday - Costa Blanca

Multi-activity holiday, Costa Blanca

Guided rock climbing & coaching week, Costa Blanca

Multi-activity week - Costa Blanca

Rock climbing grades - what's all the fuss about?

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