​Day 3: Sonjannika, Morro Falqui – A change from single pitch sport climbing to more commiting things on big sea cliffs. This 170m 6 pitch beauty gives some of the best climbing in the area. Whilst still being a bolted route, the bolts are very spaced so more care is required with both route finding and body position and technique. I climbed with Kerry and Kate climbed with Joe, we all alternate led, with joe & Kerry leading us up the crux pitch to the top. There were 2 climbers ahead of us, but apart from that it felt like we had the whole crag and coastline to ourselves. The top is reached all too quickly, but at least we left it until afternoon to start so we enjoyed the setting sun as we topped out.
 
Day 4: L’Ocaive crag – Tired muscles and fingers today and a late start had been planned. L’Ocaive is within walking distance of our house in Llosa de Camacho and visible from the terrace. Dismissed by many climbers as either too hard or simply unattractive. Neither could be further from the truth. The huge orange cave is the centrepiece of the crag and is indeed mega hard. The big grey slabs to the left offer more amenable climbing from 4+ and whilst they do appear vegetated, the rock is clean, solid, and provides some excellent routes. The crag stays in the shade until around 2pm so is perfect for warmer days. We ticked 4 long routes from 4+ - 6b. Starting late allowed us a late finish too and a sunset at the crag, which is beautiful. 

​Day 5: Bolulla Raco Roig – The final climbing day of the trip and realistically needed to be a rest day, but that’s never going to happen on the last day, right.
So instead we opted for a high crag with more of a walk-in to reduce the amount of climbing time to a sensible level.
You may be thinking, why go for a longer approach walk with so many roadside venues in the area. Anyone who has visited Raco Roig will already know the answer. 25 minutes of easy walking along a mountain track and we’re in the most magnificent setting, arguably the finest single pitch crag setting in the Costa Blanca with stupendous views into the canyon, of the Bernia ridge, and out to sea. But what’s the climbing like I hear you say. Immaculate limestone with friendly spaced bolting. Joe ticked his first 6b in Spain! But it was the long, sustained 6a+ he cruised that was the highlight and best single pitch route of the trip ‘Sinfonie Fur Simi’. A 3 star route through and through. Beware the sharp rock up here, we’ve already painted some of it red!
As the sun moved across the crag and shade quickly followed, we ran away in time for coffee & cake at the Coll de Rates.
For the last night out and a special treat we made the short journey to Castell de Castells and the amazing food of Mirco & Paula at their restaurant ‘Castell de Ines’. We can’t speak highly enough of the food and passion to be found in this restaurant, simply unique. I’ve been to Ambleside’s finest restaurants over the years and none come close for overall experience. Don’t just turn up and expect to be fed though, booking is essential.
 
With winter fast approaching, some will be turning their thoughts to snow and ice along with the vagaries of Scottish winter. Others will be missing the rock. For anyone looking to experience rock climbing, mountain walking, canyoning, ridge scrambles, or via ferrata, and would like some sunshine & warmth mixed in, why not get in touch and let us put together an itinerary to suit you.

Big thanks to Kerry, Joe, Kim, and Ann for joining us this week :-)

​Mark & Kate  

It's been a hectic and hugely fun week for us here. We welcomed back the Hewett family and friends for multi-activities and adventures and all things rock in Costa Blanca :-)
Now with 2 small babies, activities were going to need some flexibility from all sides, so I had lots of plan b's (even more than usual) this week.

As a gentle warm up we all enjoyed a walk to Les Arcs, to see the dramatic rock arches above Castell de Castells. This was followed with an afternoon of Rock climbing at the Viudes crag near Tarbena, which we had all to ourselves.

For Monday things got a bit more exciting, with a descent of the Barranco del Pas Tancat, near Bolulla. Having only fairly recently discovered this amazing place I was keen to share the experience with others and knew it would be enjoyed by the team. To allow for childcare to work out we ran 2 trips during the day so everyone got to experience the canyon.

Tuesday was to be an adventure day on the mighty Ponoch. We scaled the mountain using the in-situ Via Ferrata to quickly and easily gain height. This activity can be enjoyed by anybody who is fit and has a head for heights. It's a lot of fun (see the photos) and has a fast pace to it.

Wednesday was spent at the nearby crag of Alcalali. This crag typifies Costa Blanca sport climbing, with well bolted, top quality climbs looking out over a stunning valley and within 5 minutes of the car park. Good climbing progression shown by all and Edd giving us a finale on a long and sustained 6c, top effort!

Thursday saw a last minute change of plan as 2 more friends joined the group. Jenni & Francie were keen to have an adventure rather than go rock climbing with the others. So after some discussion and along with Lauren too, 4 of us headed back to the Ponoch Via Ferrata to scale this huge mountain. Smiles all round at the top, well done all.

Friday has arrived all too quickly and the last day of their holiday :-(
So let's make the most of it and get back out on the rock. This time to another fairly newly developed sport climbing venue near Gandia. Ultra sharp rock, closely spaced bolts, sun and shade, and superb views over Orange groves to the mountains beyond, there's a lot going for this place. Everyone excelled, with some impressive leads, especially so from Jules and Charlie. The babies were able to play in the shelter of a nearby cave (it was a very hot day), so enjoyed shade and cooler temps as well as watching some impressive locals on the super steep routes going through the roofs!!

Friday night is music night at Emilios Bar here in Llosa de Camacho, and the fantastic Gas Monkeys were playing tonight. Really good music until way passed my bed time. The early morning flight didn't seem to deter anyone from keeping the barman company until rather later ;-)

Sad to be saying goodbye to these beautiful people once again. Safe travels all, and especially so for Edd & Charlie who set sail for the Falkland Islands in a few days time!
 
Mark & Kate

​Maybe you're looking for an activity week and would like to get off the beaten track. Or want to escape the UK winter and find warm sunshine. If so, get in touch and let us take you on some adventures

There’s some amazing rock climbers in the world, we hear them talk about grades that for most of us might as well not exist. Those of you who know me will know I’m no grade chaser, in fact it’s quite the opposite, grades don’t matter. Or do they?
It’s the people, the location, the atmosphere, the moves, the exposure. That’s where the enjoyment of rock climbing comes. I’m certainly sticking by that and always will.
The saying goes, ‘the best climber is the one having the most fun’. I think is an important quote to remember. Never mind what you’re red-pointing or on-sighting, just enjoy the being.
Over the last few months I’ve witnessed great joy from a climber lead a grade 4 sport route and another climber kick themselves about not cleanly leading a 7b. One was happy, the other not.
 
However, these numerical grades exist so we can measure ourselves against others and ourselves. We can keep track of our improvement, if we want to.
So where’s this all going? Well, I’ve decided to start pushing myself a bit harder in a bid to improve my personal climbing.
 
Currently being a pretty average climber and have operated around the 6a+ sport / HVS range for a few years. Some of the people I’ve climbed with in recent months have been operating well above that level, so the opportunity was there to have a go at some much harder climbs. How were they? Much harder of course! Often not enjoyable, but usually there was an element of fun lurking in there somewhere.
Having seconded some of these routes, I thought why not try leading harder climbs? What’s the worst that can happen? Failure!!!
But anyone who ever tried can never be accused of failing. Not trying is the failing. But having a go and not quite managing it, that adds to our experience and development.
So whilst at a local crag yesterday, I picked a route that would offer a massive challenge, an overhanging 6C. Oh dear!!
 
To protect from a ground fall, the 2nd bolt was pre-clipped, but after that I was on my own. Looking at the route prior to the ascent I thought maybe I was mad! But I began to program my brain to accept what was about to happen, this route would be climbed, I wouldn’t fall off, all would be well, and it would be fun.
Pulling through the low bulge felt brutally hard and I did fall a few times. However, once on the upper wall things began to flow much better and very soon I was clipping the lower off, success.
 
Feeling pretty chuffed, I decided to see if this was a fluke, so picked out another 6C, this time the route overhung even more, the initial moves looked quite improbable and this time a fall, even with a pre-clipped bolt, would have probably meant a ground fall or very close. But I wasn’t really thinking of that, I was in ‘the zone’ and this route would also be climbed, this time in better style with less falling.

Something that's especially relevant when pushing harder physically, is the necessity to warm up properly beforehand. Spend a few minutes stretching and doing some more gentle exercise, this will help prevent strain injuries.

And remember, It’s the people, the location, the atmosphere, the moves, the exposure. That’s where the enjoyment of rock climbing comes. A classic 'diff' on a Gritstone edge, or mountain 'v'diff' in the Lakes can and so very often do make for fantastic routes and the best days out.

Thanks for reading

​Mark