Blog Archives

Short break winter sun climbing

29/12/2018

Enjoying warm rock in stunning locations

Over the last few days we've been joined by Andzelika and Eugeniusz, on their 3rd climbing trip to the area, great to see you both :-)
Looking for a relaxing yet active holiday, they opted for 3 half day climbing sessions with us. So still plenty time to explore and relax away from the crags.
We got plenty of climbing done still, with visits to Alcalali crag in the Jalon valley, to Ambolo crag on the coast near Javea, and yesterday at L'Ocaive crag which is our local venue. The sun joined us for much of the time, but yesterday it stayed at home and we even had some rain!! Thankfully L'Ocaive offers some 'dry in the rain' climbs, so we were able to finish the afternoon enjoying one of these and staying completely dry, yeah! I lost count of the total number of routes we climbed over the 3 days, but it certainly seemed like quite a lot, I think muscles were pleasantly tired by the end of each session, always a good sign.

Thanks both and lovely to see you. Hopefully catch up soon back in the Lakes.

Mark

Big blue skies over Ambolo crag, Javea

0 Comments

Trad climbing - Costa Blanca

29/12/2018

0 Comments

Vall de Gulabdar crags from the top of Paret de Castellet

The Costa Blanca is better known amongst climbers for its amazing 'sport climbing' (bolted routes). So the 'trad' or 'traditional' climbing often gets overlooked, which is a shame, because these often form the best and most lasting memories. Trad climbing simply means there is no (or at least very little) fixed protection in the rock, so we take everything with us in order to minimise the risks involved.

3 big differences come immediately to mind when thinking trad and sport:
1) Route finding will almost certainly be more difficult / involved on a trad route as there is no fixed protection to mark the route.
2) Protection is less certain and not always at regular intervals.
3) There's a lot more equipment to carry!

These elements add together to produce a fourth difference. The level of adventure is way higher on a trad route.

For Christmas Day this year I was joined by my friend Kim and we headed out for a trad adventure in the nearby Valleys de Gulabdar (sometimes referred to as 'Echo valley'). Having not climbed any trad there for a while we were both pretty keen for a revisit and a day of trad. Kim had unfinished business with a route called 'Via Esther' a 'Hard Severe' route on Paret de Castellet crag. 4 pitches and about 100m so quite short for the area, but enough to keep us happy today.

The guidebook was enough to help us find the start of the route, although this still took a little working out. Once on the route, the description represented a work of fiction! Strangely I quite like it that way, it certainly adds to the adventure and keeps us second guessing.
The route was however very good, with nice solid, sharp rock, and plentiful protection for most of the way, it certainly never felt 'run out'. As we gained height so the views improved, and soon we enjoyed commanding vistas from the top of the crag. We had a choice of descent routes, either abseil or scramble. We chose to abseil, in retrospect this was a mistake as the abseil stations, whilst looking convenient, are not in the best of positions, so ropes can easily be rubbing over sharp edges, and there's real potential of a rope jamming on the first abseil.
As we were using 2x60m half ropes, it was just 2 abseils to reach the base of the crag. The scramble descent looked like following a pleasant ridge over to the ruined castle then a steady descent back to the road. Will try that next time.

Of the numerous trad routes I've climbed at Vall de Gulabdar, this has been the best so far and I would recommend it to anyone leading around the HS/VS grade. A selection of cams, nuts, and slings proved to be useful as there is very little in the way of fixed protection. The abseil stations are double bolted.

For more information or to book a guided day with us, either in the Costa Blanca or the Lake District, please get in touch anytime.

Mark

Via Esther follows the right hand arete

Abseiling after the climb

Getting ready for a day of trad climbing

0 Comments

So what is a winter sun holiday to Costa Blanca really like?

25/12/2018

0 Comments

Mike enjoying warm rock and sunshine at Aventador crag in December!

We've been making the journey south to Costa Blanca for many years now. Spending winter in southern Spain has a few advantages, not only is there a plentiful and cheap supply of delicious fresh food. The valleys and mountains are a delight to explore and roam, offering clean, crisp, clear air and big sky views almost everyday.
The weather tends to be pretty good too, meaning most of the time it's possible and very enjoyable to get out into the mountains or onto the crags. This of course helps with fitness and wellbeing.

The local population are generally really friendly and welcoming, and English is widely spoken (in case your Spanish is a bit rusty)!

But it isn't necessary to spend a whole winter here to reap these benefits, it's very doable to feel the change in a just a few days. A recharge. And we all need a recharge every once in a while.

What is there to do here?
Golden sand beaches and lots of them. Swimming during winter is still popular. Historical towns, markets, ancient villages as well as Valencia, the city of Sciences. Okay, but what about if we look away from the seaside, what then do we see?

Mountains!!
Absolutely loads of them too. And most of them are pointy and rocky. This is a paradise for outdoor enthusiasts. Rock climbing, hiking, mountain biking, canyoning, via ferrata, and wow those ridges.

I could ramble on for ages, but instead I'll let the photos do the talking. All photos have been taken during December 2018 - it's what winter is like.

With cheap and easy flight access from the UK to Alicante and Valencia airports why not get some annual leave booked and come sample some of these amazing places.

Merry Christmas all

Mark

Epic scenery during a walk around Xanchet mountain

The magnificent 'Cova del Dalt'

Paragliding around the Sierra Ferrer and Sierra Bernia ranges

Barranco de l'Estret de Cardos

Abseil descent after enjoying a trad multi pitch on Christmas Day

Rachel cruising up another brilliant route at Los Cerezos

Don being the wonderful crag dog he is. Happily snoozing away the afternoon under big blue skies

0 Comments

Bernia ridge - new routes and discoveries

15/12/2018

0 Comments

Looking back along the crest of Bernia

Some days give more adventure than others. Today gave us lots, it was the day that kept on giving.

A couple of weeks ago, whilst walking with friends around the Bernia ridge circuit, I'd spotted a line of bolts in the rock and was keen to know more about where they led to. Having since done lots of research online, I'd come up with absolutely no information relevant to the route! So complete with a full 'trad' rack I set off with friends Kim and Miguel so we could find out for ourselves.

The 1st pitch provided to be an enjoyable layback corner crack, this was fun but some of the holds were worryingly loose so it took us a little longer than anticipated. A double bolt belay gave us reassurance and safety, phew!

The next pitch provided a lot more in the way of loose rock / rubble climbing, this required a very delicate approach. No bolts now and not much in the way of 'trad' gear, now we were committed.

Pitch 3 - After a few metres of loose climbing a fine rib presented itself and proved to be great fun, and solid! Good moves and positions led up to a great belay stance with stunning views over to Puig Campana and Ponoch. The angle eased off now and we put the ropes away. A mix of easy scrambling and walking led us quickly up to the ridge proper.
As it was getting a little late, our plan was to reverse the ridge, however we were now too far along to easily do this, so once again were committed. We put our Duracell hats on and powered along the ridge rapidly and efficiently. But still taking some time to admire our location and surroundings, such an awesome place.

Walking down from the ridge I had mixed feelings. Happiness that we hadn't pulled any big rocks off and were all safe and well. Sadness that the route up to the ridge had provided to be disappointing climbing. I was reminded by Miguel that not every new route we do is going to be amazing. But by continually searching out new ways up the mountains, new lines on crags, new crags, we are able to share the best - and there are some amazing places - of these places with you.

All in all, another satisfying day in the mountains, exploring and adventuring. Thanks to Miguel and Kim for joining and helping out on this one :-)

Mark

The view looking inland is pretty good too!

Kim and Miguel nearing the end of the traverse this afternoon

0 Comments

Short & sweet multi-activity break - Costa Blanca

9/12/2018

0 Comments

Andi and Michael enjoying the great scrambling on the Toix ridge

This week we welcomed back Michael and Andi from the north-east of England. Keen for a short break and in need of some sunshine, the Costa Blanca delivered in fine style. It's been sun, sun, sun. Dare I say 'a bit too hot'!!

Looking for variety and to include some skills and climbing, we formulated a plan that would give lots of time on rock, lots of ascent, and lots of descent whilst consolidating skills.

Less than an hour after leaving Alicante airport we were geared up and walking towards the huge via ferrata on El Cid. This was chosen partly due to its shady outlook (very hot day). About 300m of vertical ascent with traverses and lots of rock moves, we topped out on the summit and back into the full sun, with the mountains casting mystical shadows over the Spanish landscape, sublime.

We took the scenic drive back to Llosa de Camacho and some downtime in preparation for day 2.....

Day 2 had been a toss-up between a variety of amazing ridges in the area. We opted for The Toix Integral ridge near Calpe. This gave us about 200m of easy grade rock climbing and lots of top quality and at times very exposed scrambling. All in an amazing setting high above the sea and with views over to El Penon d'Ifach.

Day 3 was set to be a little more leisurely but equally fun. I think it lived up to expectations.
The Barranco del Pas de Tancat isn't exactly easy to find, but once you know where it is, you're sure to visit more than once, spectacular scenery in abundance sums it up. Plenty of jaw-dropping moments, with huge cliffs above and beautifully sculpted water worn rock formations all around. With about 10 full equipped abseil stations, starting with the really very small and becoming progressively longer, it's the perfect venue for getting to grips with abseiling.

Along with nights out in Pedreguer and Denia, this short stay has packed a lot in and I think we bid fair wells to a couple of tired climbers this morning, always a good sign.

Thanks to Andi and Michael. Hope to see you again soon.
Also thanks to Kate, Kim, Jenny, Tricia, and Kay for joining on some of the days out.

Mark

On the El Cid via ferrata - and only a couple of hours after arriving in Spain!

Sublime views from the summit of El Cid

Barranco del Pas de Tancat

Abseiling through some pretty cool scenery

More impressive scenery in the canyon

0 Comments

Segaria ridge - Mountaineering days on the Costa Blanca

6/12/2018

0 Comments

Enjoying big exposure and amazing views on the Segaria ridge

This week has seen a lot of farming activity in the region. The result is lots of farmers are busy burning the dead wood, thus allowing some nutrients back into the soil. These times can cause some tension though, with residents becoming upset by the amount of smoke, and yes it can be a bit of a pain. But today it was hugely in our favour and made the Costa Blanca mountains and coastline even more heavenly than usual. A thin veil of smoke hung over the valleys, creating wonderfully atmospheric conditions, we simply had to spot and stare, a lot!

Our vantage point was rather splendid, the mighty Segaria ridge. This is only a few minutes from our winter base and provides around 4 - 5km's of brilliant ridge scrambling. Whilst it's possible to complete a full traverse in a long day out, we had limited time today, so opted for some of the 'best bits'. Meaning lots of grade 3 scrambling on a knife-edged arete, with the whole place to ourselves and a 25m abseil to finish.

All this was doable at a leisurely pace in an afternoon, about 4 hours actually. We started the scrambling at the huge notch and traversed the ridge westwards from there to finish at the TV masts. Of all the sections of ridge, this is my personal favourite as it allows for minimal kit to be carried, whilst still enjoying technical terrain in a hugely impressive setting.

Yes you'll notice that everyone in the photos is wearing short sleeve tops, and yes this is December! Winter is the absolute best time to visit Costa Blanca for rock climbing, scrambling, via ferrata, mountaineering, hiking, canyoning, or even lying around on the beach :-)

If you're looking to escape the UK / Northern Europe for a few days of sunshine and keen to experience an adventure in the mountains, look no further, give us a call / e-mail and let's make a plan.

Thanks to Kate, Leanne, and Laurie for joining today.

Mark

And it goes on for miles too, so much top class scrambling and climbing

Climbing out of the big notch, with Montgo in the distance

0 Comments

Short break winter sun climbing

Trad climbing - Costa Blanca

So what is a winter sun holiday to Costa Blanca really like?

Bernia ridge - new routes and discoveries

Short & sweet multi-activity break - Costa Blanca

Segaria ridge - Mountaineering days on the Costa Blanca

Categories

Archives