Blog Archives - Mountain Journeys - Guided Walks

More amazing ridges of Costa Blanca

26/11/2018

#cabezond'oro

A clear view of the abseil hole!

This week we made a return visit to the magnificent Cresta del Canelobre on Cabezon d'Oro (mountain with a head of gold)! Recent years have seen more equipping of the ridge and now an easier way onto it exists.

A short via ferrata just above the car park leads very quickly up onto the ridge. Although easy, it's worth considering protecting this section, either with VF lanyards, or by pitching with rope. Once on the ridge follow it leftwards, bolts mark the route. About 4 easy pitches lead to an equipped abseil station. Whilst it's possible to continue along the entire ridge, a fun alternative is to abseil here, a 50m abseil leads through the massive hole to another abseil to scrambling ground under the sport climbing area.

This whole trip can be done in around 2 hours 30 minutes, so even feasible as an airport day for those on holiday.

The first section of ridge is equipped, although no belay stations are currently in place. After this a small selection of trad' gear will prove useful for occasional protection and building belays, should these be required.

For more information or guiding days that we can provide please don't hesitate to get in touch

#viaferratacostablanca

The initial via ferrata equipped section leading to the ridge

#ridgesofcostablanca

Looking back along part of the crest - Alicante city in the distance

#activityholidaycostablanca

The abseil off the ridge

The main attraction of Costa Blanca for us is the sheer diversity on offer. One day we can be on a committing trad' climb in the mountains, next day enjoying exposure on the sea cliffs, then a via ferrata, maybe mix in a big ridge traverse, and let's not forget the canyons, the beautiful mountain walking, DWS, and beaches. And for the climber, bring it all back to the humble single pitch 'sport' crag.
Alcalali crag shines as such a venue, and we feel super lucky it's only a 5 minute drive from our winter base. With climbs here ranging from grade 3 up to the mid 7's there's something to keep most happy. It's also a sunny and sheltered venue, making it perfect for winter sun seekers, oh and the view.... well don't just take our word for it, come see.

#sportclimbingcostablanca

Alcalali crag - well bolted, roadside, great rock, beautiful setting - ticks a lot of boxes then!

#whatequipmentforsportclimbing

Sport rack ready for action

Multi-activity - Costa Blanca

23/11/2018

#rockclimbingholidaycostablanca

Part of the Toix ridge with El Penon as backdrop

Nearing the end of their week here and I think now feeling suitably 'refreshed', Allan & Kim may have experienced fairly mixed weather, but there's been plenty of T-shirt and shades time and we've managed to get out loads :-)

An afternoon at Toix far Oeste kick-started the week, getting a feel for the sharp Limestone of Costa Blanca and things to come. Next up was the mighty Ponoch, climbing its Via Ferrata, enjoying amazing views over to the Bernia ridge then abseiling back down. Coffee and cake treats at Coll de Rates on the way home rounded off another fine day.

Ridge scrambling was next up. The Toix Integral. Starting on the Toix Este crags we climbed a 130m route before joining the narrow crest up to the Mirador in time for lunch. A short walk led us to the main Toix crags with 3 pitches taking us up to the ridge and 2 pitches along the knife edge crest! Easy, but exposed scrambling remains. Happy faces all round :-)

Another day of contrast coming up. We climbed Sonjannika on the Morro Falqui sea cliffs. This 180m route up the magnificent south face is indeed a stunning line, weaving its way up some Improbable terrain. We went for an alternate finish this time, scrambling along ledges to reach the super fun 'Coming out' route as our way of topping out.

A fun and diverse week, now for some rest.....

Mark

#rockclimbingnearcalpe

Toix ridge looking towards Bernia

#viaferratacostablanca

Ponoch via ferrata

#guidedrockclimbingcostablanca

Pitch 3 of Sonjannika, Morro Falqui

Bernia ridge circuit

15/11/2018

#walkingholidaycostablanca

South side of the ridge looking towards Puig Campana

This week started with a wonderful walk around the Bernia ridge. It's more usual for us to be striding along the crest of the ridge, so today made for a refreshing change.
From Casas de Bernia on the north side of Bernia, we made our way up to the Forat (natural tunnel through the ridge) with the benefit of shade from the mighty ridge towering above us.
A squeeze through the forat and we were in bright sunshine and enjoying views out over the coast and over to the mountains, simply magnificent. The temperature difference from one side to the other is staggering, maybe 10 degrees!

I had remembered the path on the south side of the ridge as being slightly more challenging in places, but recent upgrading work has made for much easier going underfoot. Very excited to find a line of bolts leading up towards the ridge, mental note made to return with climbing gear :-)

Lunch at the fort whilst enjoying far reaching views over towards Puig Campana and down to the coastline before the final leg of the walk which traverses around the western end of the ridge below the true summit of Bernia.

Despite this being a fairly leisurely stroll, we were only out for about 3 and a half hours.

Thanks to Kate, Mike, and Ann for the company

Mark

#guidedwalkscostablanca

Looking back along the magnificent ridge

#berniaridgeforat

Emerging through the forat

#walkingroutescostablanca

Making our way back to Casas de Bernia

New climbs on the sea cliffs - Costa Blanca

11/11/2018

#costablancaguidedclimbing

Miguel enjoying big exposure at Morro Falqui

Just last week it came to my attention that a new route had been put up on the magnificent Morro Falqui sea cliffs. So far all my experiences of sea cliffs in this area have been excellent. Raco de Corv gives steep, sustained climbing from the beach. Magical Mystery Tour area gives an unforgettable adventure into wild terrain. And Pirates of the Caribbean takes in terrain that really should be much harder, but thankfully isn't.

So all the above are outstanding venues and will provide the climber with a memorable day out, no doubt about that. Morro Falqui, for me, gives just a little bit more. The journey to a deserted beach, the far reaching views along the coastline, the incredibly sharp rock that will rip your skin. Even the method of bolting routes here seems just right, a truly professional job that feels safe yet adventurous, perfect.

'95 Ole' gives 3 pitches of brilliant and varied climbing at a max grade of about 6a / 6a+ before it joins up with Sonjannika at the huge belay ledge before the crux pitch of Sonjannika. To give more details of the route at this stage may spoil the adventure for some, so I'll leave it there. For anyone reading this and wanting more information, get in touch and we'll happily share what we know.

Thanks to Kate, Mila, and Miguel for sharing the adventure. You beautiful people :-)

Mark

#morrofalquiseacliffcostablanca

Kate cruising up pitch 2

#climbinginstructorcostablanca

The final pitch of Sonjannika

#sonjannikaseacliffcostablanca

Miguel finishes up 'Moorhun Winter Edition' at 6a

#costablancaguidedclimbs

Kate at the top of Morro Falqui cliff - all feeling satisfied and sun kissed after a big climb

Caves of Costa Blanca

11/11/2018

#covadedalt

Dramatic rock architecture in Cova de Dalt

Earlier in the week we heard about some easily accessible and beautiful caves between the villages of Tarbena and Castell de Castells.
After a little research we headed out with a good idea of where to find these caves. But wow, it was so much easier than we had anticipated, yet every bit as good, maybe better, than we had expected.
The main chamber enjoyed plenty of natural light, allowing the rock colours and formations to be fully appreciated. At one end of this chamber was a much smaller and darker chamber - torch required - which has some impressive rock architecture and well worth a look.

As the approach walk had been so short, only about 20 minutes, we decided to try to make this into a circular route incorporating the summit of Es Crestall, which was almost directly above the cave.
With a little bit of route finding we made a really nice circuit.

If visiting the region and looking for something a little bit different, but not wanting too much physical exertion, this could be just the thing you're looking for. And with the mountain villages of Tarbena and Castell de Castells nearby there's plenty of restaurants for treats afterwards :-)

Thanks for reading.

Mark

#cavesofcostablanca

Kate exploring the deeper recesses of the cave

#guidedwalkscostablanca

Big views from the summit of Es Crestall

Ponoch via ferrata

10/11/2018

#viaferrataguidecostablanca

Enjoying the Ponoch via ferrata

Yesterday we had the pleasure of introducing Julio, Jenny, and Jackie to the delights of Via Ferrata. For this we went to the magnificent south face of Ponoch / Ponoig, which lies a short way inland from the bustling tourist resort of Benidorm.

The amount of rock on Ponoch is unbelievable, as is the scale.This means that few venture onto the epic climbs weaving up the crag. For most these are all day routes, arduous, and come with plenty of adventure! To the right of the crag is a via ferrata, one of the finest in the region. It allows access to this impressive crag without the big commitment of the trad routes. Roughly following the line of an old E1 trad route, it covers plenty of steep terrain and the exposure is completely wild, but it's all very fast.

After gearing up, we enjoyed an easy approach walk of only about 20 minutes, a blast up the route followed by some scrambling down to reach the abseil station. 2 abseils, each of no more than 30m and touchdown back at the base of the crag. Easy walking leads back to the parking area. A leisurely 4 hours, including plenty of breaks, photos stops, and simply enjoying the views.

Big thanks to Julio, Jenny, and Jackie. Also to Kate for helping.

Mark

#costablancaviaferrata

Almost at the top

#viaferratacostablanca

And now for the descent :-)

#ponochviaferrataspain

The enormous south face of Ponoch

Sea cliff adventures - Sonjannika and friends

8/11/2018

#sonjannikacostablanca

Now there's a happy climber :-)

Yesterday I had the pleasure of introducing Julio from the USA to the incredible limestone sea cliffs of Morro Falqui, Costa Blanca.
We climbed a 6 pitch route called Sonjannika. What’s it like? Well I’ve climbed it about 15 times to date and still think it’s amazing.

The approach is a fun descent through a canyon leading to a hidden beach, a further scramble brings us to the base of the route.
A nice easy 1st pitch eases us into the proper climbing.
Pitch 2 is up a steep corner to a hanging belay.
Pitch 3 weaves around in search of the cave belay and some welcome shade.
Pitch 4 is pretty straightforward but with huge exposure when stepping out of the cave! This leads up to a large ledge which makes for a good resting spot.
Pitch 5 is either a fun scramble or a 6a+ chimney / wall climb. We often choose the scramble as some of the regular pitch feels a little unstable. Today it was the 6a+ variant, which after all the 4+ / 5+ climbing is quite a wake up. It’s steep!
Pitch 6 we took the slightly harder finish, following the adjacent route called ‘Moorhun Winter Edition’ at 6a. This makes for a wonderful finale to a superb climb.

The sun had well and truly fried us during the climb, so the strong wind blowing at the top of the crag was most welcome. Easy walking back to the cars provided the perfect cool down.

Top effort to Julio for leading the whole route too.

Mark

#seacliffsofcostablanca

Julio leading out of the cave

#guidedclimbingcostablanca

Julio cruising on pitch 2

Sport climbing holiday - Costa Blanca

8/11/2018

#climbingholidaycostablanca

Enjoying perfect rock and big blue skies, in November! Los Cerezos crag

This week we welcomed back Rachel and Naz this week for 4 action packed days of rock climbing. Starting at the nearby crag of Alcalali, we blasted through 7 routes on day one. The day was bright and sunny yet the crag was pretty quiet, we certainly had the pick of routes. As the sun fell low in the sky and the crag began to glow, a big group of climbers arrived for the golden hour as the sunset. It was almost time for us to pack up, so we could enjoy some entertainment from fellow climbers as we did so.

For our second day we headed for the coast and Toix crags. Rachel having visited Toix a few times already we decided on a different sector, so went to Toix Tropical Dreams. With temperatures soaring it certainly felt tropical!
We cruised through 4 long routes and finished with an abseil. Always good to include some skills during a day out climbing.

For day 3 there was a slightly uncertain weather forecast, so we again headed for the coast and this time to Morro Falqui. Climbing a couple of harder routes before the rain arrived, then finishing off the climbing with an easier (and dry) climb called ‘Coming Out’. We finished the day with some scrambling along the nearby sea cliffs, another grand day out.

Rachel was keen to revisit Los Cerezos crag near Tarbena, so we went here on their last day. We had the whole crag, well probably the whole valley, to ourselves, meaning it was an incredibly peaceful day. The sun blasted onto the crag all day too and it would have been very easy to just lie around and sunbathe. We cruised through I think either 6 or 7 routes, most being 30+m long too, so a good mileage day. We finished up as the sun dripped below the hills and cool air engulfed the valley, perfect timing again.
Stopping once or twice whilst walking back, just to breath in the atmosphere, the fresh air, and the peacefulness.

More great days with lovely people :-)

Mark

#sportclimbingholidaycostablanca

Late afternoon light on Alcalali crag, only five minutes from our Costa Blanca base

Mountain walks and sport climbing on the Costa Blanca

8/11/2018

#walkholidayspain

On our way to Castell d'Axia

It’s been crazy busy here over the passed couple of weeks, so a bit slow on writing updates.

As well as enjoying some wonderful walks, we spent a day showing Kitty, David, and Megan the delights of Limestone rock climbing at Marin crag near Alicante.

For visiting climbers Marin has quite an appeal for its location is such that it is a feasible ‘airport day’ crag. It’s a popular choice with locals too, and anyone staying north or south of Alicante can get to it pretty conveniently, so good for many. Add into the mix a very easy approach walk, stunning views, and a wide range of single and multi-pitch climbs and it’s easy to see why it can occasionally become busy here.

We started with a few newly bolted short routes near Sector Cuevas, these were nice warm-ups. We then enjoyed some scrambling on our way over to Sector Classico, here we climbed more newly bolted routes, these were longer and more demanding.
With temperature near perfect, the air clear, and the rock nice and grippy it was easy to make this a very enjoyable day, and it was, very enjoyable. As well as all the climbing, we looked at a few technical skills such as belay techniques and tying in to the rope using a figure of eight knot.
By mid-afternoon the sun was making us all feel a little weary, so with some further scrambling, we made our way back to the cars.

There’s been plenty of hiking going on here too. One route that quickly comes to mind is a circuit of Castell d’Axia (Castle of the princess), which we can start from our house in Llosa de Camacho. I was joined by a couple of friends Mila and Alex, both originally from Pedreguer so know the area well.
The route provides excellent walking that is constantly varied and with some great views, even as far as to Ibiza!! The route is mostly straightforward to follow and on good paths with way-marking. The remains of the castle are barely visible, but as the castle was on the summit, it’s super impressive up there anyway. Some rain joined us for the return walk, but this simply added to the adventure and feeling of wilderness. We covered around 15km in 4 hours 30 minutes, with lots of ascent too, so were all quite pleasantly tired upon arriving back at Llosa.

A cracking few days spent with lovely people.

Mark

#rockclimbingcoursecostablanca

#rockclimbingatmarinnearalicante

Enjoying a fine outlook and great climbing at Marin