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Mountaineering on Ponoch

22/10/2019

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#ponoch-via-ferrata-costa-blanca
Moonrise over Ponoch
Many still consider the Costa Blanca to be a mix of seaside resorts and for climbers at least, the home to many excellent sport climbing crags. Both are true, the region is blessed with many good resorts full of wonderful beaches and yes the sport climbing here does seem almost endless. And we are regularly discovering more bolted routes and whole crags under development, so there's lots more to come, meaning lots more to come back for.

But there is more....so much more!

Look away from the roadside bolted crags, turn your heads to the mountains and see a whole new world of possibility. Two of the biggest crags in the region - Ponoch and Puig Campana - actually have their very own guidebooks, and justifiably so, such is the extent of routes.
Whilst we can't claim to know every route on these massive faces, we do know. some of the classic lines on both and importantly, we know how to safely get off these mountains, which isn't as easy as many may think!

Last week we had the pleasure of showing 3 visiting climbers: Janine; Paul; and Emma around the mighty Ponoch. Whilst all were competent sport and trad climbers, they considered a guide being a worthwhile investment for a big day on the Ponoch. And as we start with a Via Ferrata, they also don't need to worry about having their own lanyards, as we provide these. The ferrata section allows for rapid progress up the mountain and we gained the top of this within the hour. A rest followed whilst we discussed the ridge scramble ahead of us. Paul decided to opt out and instead enjoy a good book whilst sunbathing, and why not!
Janine and Emma were super keen for the scramble, so we sorted the rope and set off, initially along a narrow ridge which soon becomes a buttress. The views and situations are truly phenomenal on this route and we took our time in order to fully appreciate this.
Once at the top, a series of abseils followed by a scree run brought us back to Paul and his book. We all then continued down to the next series of abseils to reach the base of the mountain.

As with so many things, once the procedure is know and route logged, this is all straightforward, but for a first time visitor to this mountain, trying to find all these abseils would be quite daunting. Same goes for the big routes on Puig Campana. It's not so much the reaching the top that's difficult, it's returning to base safely. That's where we can help!

A grand day out in the sun, thanks to Janine, Paul, and Emma.

Mark


#via-ferrata-ponoch-costa-blanca
Enjoying the via ferrata section
#mountaineering-costa-blanca-spain
Emma nearing the top of the scramble
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More fantastic climbing - Costa Blanca

21/10/2019

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#costa-blanca-rock-climbing
Enjoying the superb atmosphere at Ambolo crag
During the last few days we've made two visits to the coastal crags of Ambolo. I say crags in plural, as there are now more sectors. With funding from the local authorities, many more routes have been bolted, these range from 4+ into the 7's so something for everyone.
Another brilliant addition to the crags are multi-pitch climbs. I often thought it would make a good venue for this, clearly others shared those thoughts and have added a few longer routes, these are in the lower grades too, so can be enjoyed by relative newcomers to the sport.

So on the opposite side of the headland to sector Voodoo etc, there is a small path leading over the wall, this continues steeply down to the newly developed sectors. Take great care accessing these areas as the path is very exposed! The walk here offer climbs from 4+ upwards on some wonderfully featured limestone. Definitely worth a visit.

Back to sector Voodoo side of the headland, we continued all the way down to the waters edge and geared up here and stashed our bags out of sight. We then traversed (rightwards looking out to sea) over rocky ground with a couple of fixed ropes. About 125m of this fun scrambling leads to a small ledge below 'Catharsis Somital' 4+/5. There is a bolted belay station to the right of this and a name plate at the base of the route. The first pitch is 4+ and gives the best of the climbing on a long pitch of around 33m. A bolted belay station can be found at the top. From here we continued on to the upper pitch, which was slightly more difficult, but alas shorter at only 15m. With a 100m of rope it would be possible to abseil back down the line in one, as our rope is shorter we abseiled in 2 stages.

With a mix of hot sunshine and cooling breeze, waves crashing below us and jet skiers in the bay, this was a memorable climb for all the right reasons. Although this looks like the best of the multi-pitch offerings at the crag, there are more and they will be worth exploring. Watch this space for more info coming soon....

Thanks to Ann and Tricia for joining me on these adventures.

Mark
#rock-climbing-near-javea-spain
On the exposed approached to some of the climbs at Ambolo
#costa-blanca-climbing
Another sunny day at the crag!
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Back in the Costa Blanca - 2019 season

12/10/2019

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#mountaineering-and-climbing-costa-blanca
Michael enjoy some wild exposure high up on Ponoch
It's been just over a week since arriving back out in Spain and the 'winter' season has already started, with loads going on.

Now I say winter, but recent temperatures have been very summer like, and often over 30C during the middle of the day. We have been starting activities early as a result. The weather is cooling off a little now though, so normal service can be resumed.

Already a couple of adventures on the massive crag of Ponoch, arguably the most impressive face of rock in the region. First of was a solo via ferrata / scramble / run for me. And a few days later back again with Michael, who had previously done the via ferrata but not the scramble. And like many others who venture onto this extensive face, found the descent difficult to locate, so he was keen to know more. And being a seasoned mountaineer, Michael obviously wanted to complete the scramble up to the plateau too, well why not.
We cruised up all of it, taking a little breather before then beginning the descent, this involves 2 abseils, a scree run, some scrambling, and 2 more abseils. So plenty to keep the mind and body occupied.
Even though we had set out early, the heat of the day was taking its toll on us and we were both feeling somewhat sun kissed on the final descent.
Looking back up at that massive crag and following our route up to the plateau confirmed it was very much worth all the sweat (and there was lots)!
Such a brilliant mountaineering day out.

If considering attempting this route, as an absolute minimum a 60m rope is required for the abseils. Standard VF kit. For the scramble it's possible to use direct belays as and when required, so no nuts/cams needed, but bear in mind the rock is very sharp and can quickly take a toll on your lovely sport climbing rope!!

We've also had the pleasure of welcoming Andi, Harriet, and Kerry to the Costa Blanca. Andi has visited a few times already and was keen to show friends how much fun can be had here.

We kicked off with a visit to Cala Testos. Yes it's a beach, but no ordinary beach. There is a technical descent to access this beautiful little cove. After some abseil practice, a swim, some climbing to get back out. We proceeded to a nearby beach bar for welcome refreshments before exploring some of the nearby sea caves.
Next up for the girls was a day by the pool here at Atalaya. A relaxing day before we head out to Sierra de Toix for some climbing.
Starting early we managed to keep in the cool of the shade for a few hours and enjoy the wonderful Limestone routes at Toix far Oeste. By early afternoon it was time for a cool off. So the girls aimed for the nearby beaches of Mascarat.

To round the activities off, we had a walk to the Cova del Dalt and up to Es Crestall. The Cova is hugely impressive and so easy to reach. Back in the UK this would be mobbed with visitors, here it's usually empty, as it was today. Summit views were spectacular too, with Mallarda de Llop and Aitana both clearly visible and some puffy clouds around to add atmosphere.
It was more pool action back at the villa and a night out in nearby Denia for the girls, followed by more night-time pool fun and games. Well why not, it's what holidays are for right.

A big thanks to Andi, Kerry, Harriet, and Michael - it's been a pleasure and a privilege.

Mark
#guided-walks-costa-blanca
Summit of Es Crestall, with Mallada de Llop and Aitana in the background
#walking-holiday-spain
Cala Moraig
#guided-walking-costa-blanca
After a hot day in the mountains, this is the perfect welcome home
#walking-holiday-costa-blanca
Montgo dominates over Jesus Pobre
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