Sunday was due to be a Corvus day in Borrowdale. This 3 star classic route is amazing fun, but when there's waterfalls coming off the top of the crag fun may be the wrong description!
So instead I met Helen at the Keswick climbing wall and we ran through some sport climbing specific techniques whilst waiting for the rain to blow away.

Sure enough the skies cleared and we set off to Borrowdale, with the final choice of crag being Glaciated Slab. A sunny venue offering superb slab climbs on immaculate rock and in a beautiful setting. We climbed 5 routes here, with Helen leading the last climb of the day.
We also had a short recap on abseiling whilst at the crag.
Even though it was around 6pm when we left, it really didn't seem it, with the sun still out and warm air all around, the day had turned out pretty amazing.

Monday evening I met up with fellow instructor Joe and we climbed at White Ghyll in Langdale. My plan was for a route called Gordian Not, but with rain starting to spit we thought better of it and went for the shorter Slip Not (VS) route instead.
Joe cruised the first pitch to make a belay under the big roof. I then proceeded to make a proper meal of the 2nd pitch! Having previously found it easy!! Thankfully the rain did hold off so dry rock was enjoyed throughout.

The view from White Ghyll is quite incredible, and especially so during early evening, good timing.

So all in all a brilliant couple of days, thanks Helen and Joe.

Mark

Last night i'd been out to Staveley and the FRCC launch of their new Lake District Rock climbing guide. Pretty chuffed to have been involved in this excellent publication and even more chuffed a photo of Don managed to get included in the Eskdale section. For those interested in this guide, have a look in the climbing / outdoor shops around the UK, it's sure to prove a great resource for climbers.
Thanks for the invite and my signed copy.

And so to today. There were two aims to the day. Firstly was to help Tom progress with his climbing. We'd been out together a couple of years ago and since then Tom has kept on developing by visiting indoor climbing walls. So today it was about re-introducing and progressing with the outdoor rock. The second aim was to have a photo shoot for the Camping & Caravanning Club, for their magazine (Toms dad Simon is the Editor in Chief).

So whilst me & Tom got on with climbing, and I spent time showing Tom a range of skills to enable Tom to take his first steps as a competent 2nd climber, Ali took loads of photos and Simon asked us a fair few questions.

After we'd climbed 3 or 4 routes at Lower Scout crag we moved up to Upper Scout crag to try a longer climb. Tom clearly enjoyed the feeling of being high up, and appreciated the roughness of the rock and its pocketed nature.

We finished the day with a short interview and group photo session. Looking forward to seeing the results of both.

Thanks to Tom, Simon, and Ali.

Mark

On Sunday I had the pleasure of a morning with Andzelika & Eugene from Ulverston. We've now climbed together a few times, but so far this has always been in the Langdale valley. Eager to show off more fine climbing venues in the Lakes and somewhere a little closer to Ulverston, I chose Wallowbarrow crag in the Duddon valley.

A multi-pitch route of 'vdiff' standard was chosen, 4 pitches in length and providing excellent and varied climbing the whole way. Trinity Slabs was to be their second multi-pitch route to date (the first being Middlefell Buttress in Langdale) and I think the exposure and moves were thoroughly enjoyed. It's always a fine achievement to arrive at the top of a long climb, and today was no exception.
As well as enjoying the climb, we took the time to practice belaying, look at various anchor set-ups, and chat about other safety considerations. Climbing in 'series' allows for a more relaxing time, less rope management problems, and more time for teaching skills to each climber.
All in all, a grand morning, and it stayed dry!

Monday was spent working on CPD, and specifically Rock Scrambling skills and techniques when moving as a team of 3.
So along with Kristina (who was looking for a good mountain day out), and Si (who wanted to recce the routes we were about to do), I headed out into Langdale and Middlefell Buttress followed by Crescent Climb on Pavey Ark.

My motivation being the ability to try out new techniques and further consolidate existing skills and have direct feedback on a continual basis.
Middlefell went very well and we made a rapid ascent, even the final steep wall proving quick an easy, clearly we were all moving well today.
So far we had looked at distance between the two seconds, length of an isolation loop for the person in the middle of the rope, stance management, belay methods, and various ways of attaching scramblers to the anchor system, phew!

Once clear of the top of the crag we un-roped and moved quickly to Pavey Ark, where the next chapter of scrambling would begin. There were already climbers on a neighbouring route (Crescent Slabs) ,but this was unlikely to effect us. After a brief rest we roped up again and I set off up this 'Moderate' climb / scramble. The aim initially was to find a belay within about 25m of the start. Thankfully this was duly found, an excellent spike, although slightly shallow, the rock was totally sound and a downward force would keep a sling firmly in place. A very good start to the route.

Belaying with an Italian Hitch, it's easy to quickly tie off when the first scrambler arrives, thus leaving both hands free to manage the rope for the second climber. Sometimes I was able to use a counter-balance to secure Si & Kristina, other times clove hitches were more appropriate, and the immediate feedback from both was invaluable.

We hit a minor traffic jam on the traverse pitch (the other climbers we'd seen earlier had arrived on the traverse at the same time as we did), so a little patience was called for, as well as some good humoured banter.
The final pitch of this route is very straightforward, if exposed, scrambling up grassy slopes to reach Jacks Rake. From here we un-roped and made our way down the Rake and into the valley.
A very good day out, thanks both. Feedback was 'Nice and slick' - splendid.

And yesterday was back onto rock climbing once more. This time White Ghyll.
Jane being a very experienced climber, we were alternate leading the pitches of Slab Routes 1 & 2. These give some very interesting climbing on excellent rock. Protection is adequate but never overly generous, this helps keep the mind well focused on the task.
Climbing in this way is very efficient, so we soon had the first route ticked and were back at the crag base in time for an early lunch.
Then it was onto the second route. Although described as a 3 pitch route, there are definitely 4 if using a single rope as we were. The climbing wanders around quite a lot in the early pitches, but this brings with it some amazing positions. The upper sections are quite straight and it's more a case of head towards the sky style climbing, picking what looks best along the way.
We briefly touched on some skills along the way, but mostly today was about time on rock, enjoying brilliant Lakeland rock. White Ghyll delivers. 


Thanks to Jane, Kristina, Si, Andzelika, and Eugeniusz

Yesterday I was out with a group of 10 people from Cook Foods on a Yorkshire 3 Peaks Challenge.  They were raising funds for Teenage Cancer Trust.  Verity was also there to help me with the guiding, along with ‘mountain dog’ Don!

We were lucky as the previous week the weather forecast had predicted a very rainy day but by the time Saturday arrived they had revised it to possible showers.  In fact we only got our waterproofs on once, coming off Whernside - and they didn’t stay on long!

The 24.5 mile route starts at Horton in Ribblesdale and heads out to the first of the three peaks – Pen-y-ghent (694m).  With everyone still fresh this was the easy one!  After that there is a long, long walk to the Ribblehead viaduct where we stopped for a short lunch break, made use of the roadside tea van and delved into first aid kits to sort out sore feet. 

The route then follows the viaduct before the path takes an extremely long but gentle ascent up Whernside (736m), the highest of the three peaks.  It was quite cool on the summit so after a quick photo stop we headed off again.  There’s a short, super steep section descending Whernside which was starting to get damp and slippery, slowing things down a little but with care we eventually were on flat ground again and heading to the road crossing at Chapel-le-Dale with its tempting pub.  Unfortunately two of the team called it a day here, a very difficult and emotional decision when so much effort had already been put into the day, but  with time rapidly passing by, we had to make speed or be out in the dark. 

So we continued on to the last peak of Ingleborough (723m), the summit of which was now in the cloud.  For tired legs it looked a million miles away.  It  was definitely a tough one as we’d been on our feet for over 9 hours so were feeling pretty tired.  However determination to get to the end of the challenge won the day and we made it to the summit plateau in good time for team photos.  The descent off Ingleborough was gentle but long and the end of our challenge at Horton in Ribblesdale couldn't be seen until right near the end - however  the scenery made up for this with the path negotiating beautiful limestone pavements where I saw lots of flora including orchids, saxifrages and primulas.

Getting to the car park was a welcome sight – 13 hours since we had set out.  We left the team ending their challenge with a ‘team’ stretch of the legs before heading back to their hotel for some welcome food. 

For ‘mountain dog’ Don it was also a challenge, his longest walk so far and as soon as he got into the car he fell soundly asleep – a very tired dog, although with four legs I’m sure he wasn’t as tired as the rest of us!  He also slept most of the following day and did not have his usual keenness for walkies!!!

Well done everyone and many thanks Verity, Chrissie, Alex, Lorna, Gemma, Caroline, Issie, David, Matthew, Alison and Chris for such great team spirit and making it an enjoyable day!

Kate

Today was time for some personal rock climbing, and one of the routes I had in mind was very personal for me.

We were in the Langdale valley at White Ghyll crag. Whilst being not too far from the road, the approach is quite fierce, and I suppose that's in-keeping with the climbing on this crag, fierce!

We started with 'White Ghyll Wall' a 3 pitch VS route offering top quality climbing and amazing positions. The second photo shows Sam leading the 2nd pitch of this.

Having felt very comfortable on this first route, we decided to do a bit more, and 'Haste Not' was the route of choice.
This route has much significance for me. Some years ago now I was climbing this with a good friend, the 2nd pitch, the traverse, got the better of me and I had a bit of a 'wobble'!
At the time, we decided to retreat via abseil and leave it for another time.

So today was time to sort out this unfinished business with 'Haste Not'. Sam led the 1st pitch in fine style, cruising through the steep terrain, making it look effortless. I too felt very comfortable on this 1st pitch and was ready to face my demons on the traverse pitch. Bring it on!
Stepping tentatively beneath the monstrous overhangs the memories for past failure came flooding back, I worked hard to eliminate these negative thoughts from my head and focused 100% on the task in hand, to get though this traverse, reach the belay, and breath!

The difficult moves didn't relent and placing gear proved awkward whilst hanging on on such steep terrain. Arms were beginning to feel strained, I knew a fall was a very really possibility and was ready for it. Thankfully, whilst the climbing remained difficult all the way, the good gear placements also kept coming thick and fast, settling the mind and enabling me to focus completely. Soon I was on a big ledge with the belay close by, phew it's over. What a pitch, the terrain is unlikely on a VS graded rock climb, and the climbing is unlikely on a VS too, this felt more like HVS at least.
Soon it was Sam's turn. Unable to see him from the belay i've no idea how he climbed it, but suspect he cruised it effortlessly as he so often does. He then led us up the final pitch to the top of the crag.

A cracking day, so glad to have this route in the bag.

Cheers Sam 
 

The Langdale Pikes are some of my favourite Lakeland fells so it is always a pleasure when clients ask us for a guided walk here.  I set off from Stickle Barn with Dean and Justine who were on their honeymoon - a couple who opted not for warm, sandy beaches but for an active holiday in the lovely Lake District!  This was last week and it was a cold, windy day and the cloud was down by the time we were half way up Pavey Ark so views from the tops were not great.  After Pavey Ark we headed over to Harrison Stickle and then onto Pike O'Stickle with it's rocky top which we scrambled up.  Then over to Loft Crag before heading back down to the shelter of the valley.   It's not often you have the mountains to yourselves but today was almost one of these.  We'd seen no one at all on the walk and were just heading off Loft Crag for the path down when we spied a couple wandering around.  They'd lost their bearings and were searching for the way down to Langdale - luckily they met us as it was pretty cold to be hanging around on the tops for long!

Thank you for a lovely day out Dean and Justine!

Kate

After a busy half term here in the Lakes, I decided on a quick getaway to Snowdonia for some rock climbing with my old pal Colin (less of the old I hear him saying)!

The forecast seemed good, so I made a few clear plans of crags to visit, new places for us.

First up was Clogwyn yr One in the Moelwyns. Whilst I had been here once before, it was during a course I was attending and we only did the one route due to poor weather and time factors.
Today the weather was excellent, the rock dry, the view tremendous, and the routes looked good too.
We climbed about 10 pitches from about Severe - VS range, every pitch being very good and worthwhile, belay ledges always accommodating too, and only a couple of other parties on the whole crag.
Whilst we did have time for one more route, the muscles were by now feeling tired so we called it a day and began the drive back to Nant Peris, about 50 minutes away.

If in the area, this crag is definitely worth a visit, with a very different feel to it than crags at Tremadog or Llanberis Pass, a friendlier type of rock perhaps.

Day 2 came along and I had persuaded Colin into visiting the seaside - not for ice creams, but for sea cliffs!

Rhoscolyn, on Anglesey was our first port of call. After much searching, we found 'Symphony Crack' (diff) - a 2 pitch route with tons of atmosphere. After a very long break, Colin decided to lead the 1st pitch of this one, nice one Colin, and he breezed it too. Anchored above the crashing waves as I climbed over must've been pretty cool, there was a big swell on today so the noise was intense.
A group of sea kayakers paddled into the nearby dawn, had a look around and we exchanged pleasantries before each got on with the job in hand, in our case, climbing this beautiful rock.

I took over the lead for pitch 2 and grinned like a Cheshire cat all the way to the top as the jug holds up the steep wall kept on coming. What a fantastic route, well worth seeking out in its own right, but there is plenty more to do in the area too.
We then bumped into a couple of American climbers who were looking for a route called 'Electric Blue'. I didn't know it but recognised the name and with a quick look in the guide we identified the line, WOW! - see photo above.

Kev & Emily discussed the route and went to check it out further. It's a DWS (deep water solo) and whilst the fall is potentially quite big, the sea is nice and deep and an escape to easy ground relatively straightforward should the fall happen.
Kev then prepared for the route whilst Emily came and sat with us to watch the show. And what a show it was, absolutely breathtaking stuff with 'edge of seat' moments happening almost constantly.
There was much hesitation from Kev to begin with, and his arms must have been getting tired on the overhanging wall. He also needed to reverse moves a few times too, therefore he climbed some of the route a few times, all adding to the difficulty.
It seemed he reached a point where it was 'go for it or go swimming' - so he did the right thing and 'went for it'.

The moves flowed with grace, we were all routing for him, Emily often not able to watch, but clearly with Kev all the way.

He neared the top and reached jugs, racing up the final moves, he'd made it, Emily rushing over to congratulate and us providing applause.
Kev must have been feeling pretty high after that, an incredible effort. It certainly got me thinking, could I do it, do I have the will power for it, and if so, where do you go from there?

We then drove over to Gogarth to climb on Castell Helen near to the lighthouse.

Our chosen route was a 2 pitch VS called 'Rap'.
No doubt named due to it being roughly in line with the abseil (rappel) to start that and other routes on the cliff.

For years i've wanted to climb on these cliffs, but circumstances kept getting in the way. Today that all changed as Colin began the abseil descent, I knew that without doubt I had to climb us back out of this, the pressure was on.

Thankfully the weather was glorious, the rock dry and warm, and Colin was also well tuned into the situation we'd just landed in.
The guidebook description described the route as 'steep and hard for the grade'. With the added atmosphere of a big sea cliff, this was potentially going to be quite a stretch for us both.

As soon as I set off the climb began to flow really well, I was totally focused and this made a big difference. Whilst the climbing was steep, the holds were all good, and there were plenty of resting places. Sitting on the huge ledge I remember Colin commenting about the joys of rock climbing and the wonderful places it takes us. Surrounded by only calm sea and a sea of rock I couldn't help but agree. The comment of course meant he was enjoying it too, even though sea cliffs and Colin don't always get along.

My arms began to tire a little on the final steep wall, but thankfully the angle soon began to ease, then the abseil anchors came into sight, clip in and it's over, job done, relax.
Colin breezed up in no time and soon we were back up by the car and sunbathing, having enjoyed a fabulous sea cliff adventure.
Gogarth, I will be back :-)

Mark