We've traversed many ridges here in the Costa Blanca and all have proved to be really great days out, with exposed scrambling along knife edged ridges.
One ridge in particular stands out above the rest. The Benicadell ridge, near to Salem.

Currently this isn't a popular traverse, but this is almost certainly due to the lack of inclusion in any guidebook and a general lack of information about it.

With relatively easy access from the Calpe / Benidorm / Jalon valley areas, it's a straightforward objective for a day. The approach walk is easy (mostly downhill) as is the descent. The traverse is sustained for much of the way as is the exposure, which shouldn't be under-estimated.

Yesterday I traversed this ridge along with 4 other like minded climbers. All were pretty awe-struck by the place. Jane, my climbing partner and an experienced Alpinist commented 'I think this is the best ridge i've ever done' - high accolade indeed coming from an experienced Alpinist. I too think it's the finest ridge i've ever been on.

A pitch of 4+ leads to a pitch of 4 then then terrain eases a little to about grade 3 for a while. It hovers around this grade until the wide ledges of the lunch stop. After this it eases to about grade 2 scrambling, albeit very exposed scrambling. Things soon hot up again with another pitch of 4, soon to be followed by the crux pitch of about 4+ / 5 which soon leads to the summit of the mountain.

For the whole traverse views are magnificent in all directions, so much so, it can be difficult to focus on the climbing. This area may still loosely be classed as the Costa Blanca, but be assured this is no Costa clip up route and certainly no 'sport crag', this is adventure in all its splendid glory.

For visiting climbers looking for more adventure, or for those seeking more than the standard fair on offer elsewhere, or for those who've already done the Bernia ridge and are looking for more (much more), then look no further than the Benicadell ridge. You will not be disappointed.

We have a full write up about it on this website.

If you'd like more information about the ridge or would prefer to take the hassle out of planning a traverse and enjoy a guided day here, please don't hesitate to get in touch. We're happy to help.

Thanks to Jane, Kim, Ann, and Sarah for joining me on this one :-)
​
​Mark

Winter is moving away and our thoughts turn to springtime in the Lake District. A rainbow of colours radiating from the fells and showing the landscape at its  best. And let’s be honest, this is a landscape that always looks magnificent.
Amongst these thoughts and musings, there is space given to the rock. What routes to climb this year, what goals to set, which crags are yet to be discovered.
 
The feeling of warm Lakeland Rhyolite or Andesite as fingers press against its hard surface is a joy that’s difficult to describe, it must be felt, for the sensation is magical and uplifting.
 
High on my tick-list are Scafell, Dow, Piers Gill crag, Gable, and Esk Buttress. But these will have to wait until the summer months when days are longer and the rock warmer. For springtime climbing it’s the valley crags that capture our attention.
The wonderfully situated Wallowbarrow crag in Duddon valley, with its sunny perch overlooking the patchwork of farms spreading towards the coast.
Raven crag and White Ghyll in Langdale. Both receive sun throughout the day and offering superb quality routes throughout the grade range, with plenty of easier offerings too. For Raven crag a good start is Revelation (HS), follow this with Pluto (HVS) and finish with Evening Wall (S) as it basks in the evening sun. This is a fine 8 pitch climbing day. Oh and did I mention the Old Dungeon Ghyll pub that is quite literally at the bottom of the crag, handy for post climbing refreshments!
On to Borrowdale, a mecca for generations of climbers and rightly so.
For many Shepherds crag comes to mind first. It’s a good crag, and views over Derwent water from the Belvedere are suitably impressive. But walk an extra few minutes to Black crag and find even better routes that are longer and in even more impressive surroundings, it’s also likely to be a little quieter. Whilst there try the classic ‘Troutdale Pinnacle’ and if looking to up the grade get on ‘Troutdale Pinnacle Direct’. Climbing both makes for a really cool climbing day with about 200m of ascent.
For those seeking a ‘quick fix’ on a single pitch crag, Goats crag is well worth a visit. The walk up to it is short, steep, and well worth the effort, for the setting is idyllic. Grades start at ‘diff’ and go all the way to the mid ‘E’ grades, so something to suit most. I can recommend taking a picnic and flask of tea/coffee as it makes for a perfect lunch spot.
 
Then there’s the high friction slabs of Eskdale Granite. Low lying, sunny, and almost roadside, there’s a lot to be said for seeking out a day or two over in Eskdale. The drive over Wrynose and Hardknott pass from the central Lakes starts the adventure and is a fitting precursor. Coming over the crest of Hardknott on a clear day is still a jaw-dropping moment for me (and I’ve driven that route 100’s of times). I can recommend an Eskdale ‘link-up’ climbing session visiting Hare crag, Tortoise crag, and Goat crag. All offer fine slab climbing on impeccable granite. Protection is not as good as elsewhere in the Lakes, so a bold approach is often required (or hire a guide for the day). These slabs are best visited during springtime before the bracken takes over the valley once more.
 
Classic rock climbs of the Lake District:
Where to start, there are so many worthy routes. It’s the big crags that hold the jewels though. Dow, Gimmer, Scafell, Great Gable, Pillar.
All are steeped in history and nostalgia and all offer the finest climbing in all of England, let there be no doubt about that.
 
After a few warm up climbs on the valley crags, the next crag on the radar will likely be Gimmer. This is due to its rapid drying nature and relative low level and sunny aspect, making it a viable option early in the season.
 
Main wall climb (V’diff): only 3 pitches, and doable in 2. This is an often overlooked area of the crag, but is every bit as worthy as the main buttress area. A good route to do on the way to the South East face, where more delights await.
 
Bracket and Slab (Severe): a serious route for the grade, with some challenging moves over ‘The bracket’. This is also one of the longest routes on the crag and it’s superb.
 
Or for something less intimidating try: ‘Ash tree slabs’ (V’diff): 2 pitches of immaculate slab climbing, providing move after move of 3 star climbing on beautiful Lakeland rock. The exposure mounts quickly when stepping left across the slab on pitch one. This route leads up to ‘Ash tree ledge’ – the large ledge system splitting the crag at about half height.
 
Above Ash tree ledge lie many more wonderful climbs. To keep the grade consistent with Ash Tree Slabs, try ‘A’ route. This leads to the top of the crag in 5 short pitches, at never more than ‘Mild Severe’. It’s a perfect introduction to Gimmer.  
 
For something more challenging, try: ‘The crack’ – this gives 3 sustained pitches of Very Severe 4c climbing that is mostly very well protected, particularly when climbing the crack. Of the many routes I’ve climbed on Gimmer, this is my favourite so far.
 
If you’re thinking of climbing in the Lakes this year and would like to hire a guide for the day, we’d be delighted to help. We know most of the crags really well, so can advise on the best venues and routes..
 
Happy climbing 

Mark

9 pitches of HVS climbing is always going to feel like a big day out, and Diedro UBSA on the Peñon didn't disappoint on that front.

The Rockfax guidebook for Costa Blanca rate it as a 'Top 50' route, meaning it's outstandingly good. And until now it was one we hadn't done. Why? Well, a few friends had come back with horror stories about the polish and loose rock, and indeed the guidebook even warns of this. But I couldn't resist any longer, it had to be done, so off we went in search of an adventure.

Other guidebook quotes about the route include: 'A classic expedition'; 'Spectacular abseil'; and 'looseness'!
These 3 quotes build quite a picture in my mind. Anything with the word 'classic' means harder than expected, slippery, and often a bit chossy! Then we have 'spectacular' - well does that need any more explanation? The abseil they refer to here allows for pitch 6 to link with pitch 8, yes it's pretty 'full on'!
Then on to the more serious part of the quote, 'loose rock'. This was the scary bit. The initial pitches are frighteningly loose and devoid of decent protection should a fall occur. This makes for extremely insecure climbing, on rock that may give way and crumble at any moment. By the top of pitch 2 I was ready to call it a day and retreat, as i'm sure many have done before.

The route:
Pitch 1: This is an easy but very loose scramble to reach the first proper belay. I'd say it set the tone for what lay ahead.
Pitch 2: Apparently only 30m but this felt like miles. After a short, delicate traverse on solid rock, the groove above proved to be seriously loose and without any decent protection for much of the way and certainly no protection for the crux moves. I spent a long time on this pitch and questioned my sanity. This all seemed very foolish. A fall now would have almost certainly meant hitting the deck, about 30m below me!!!
Pitch 3: Whilst belaying Kate up p2 I slowly began to calm down and take time to consider what to do next, go up or go down. When Kate arrived at the belay she was keen for the down option, i'd already eyed up the next pitch and wanted to continue, and that's what we did. With the proviso that if the climbing didn't improve i'd retreat and we'd bail off the route, fair enough. Pitch 3 gave some excellent climbing, firstly on a steep wall, then back in the groove, where bridging skills were called upon. I was starting to feel good about this route, and having a harder pitch under my belt, was definitely ready for more.
Pitch 4: This was the first of the crux pitches and it looked fantastic. Steep climbing following the corner the whole way, with more bridging & chimneying, giving powerful and satisfying climbing throughout, this was a delight, if a little tiring. The belay stance was comfortable and I relaxed in the sun as Kate followed up the pitch, also finding it strenuous.
Pitch 5: After initial moves up a fine slab, this pitch climbed into and up the deep chimney / gully that is formed by the massive pinnacle. The climbing was mostly easy, but interesting, with yet more bridging required. Protection was sparse, but by now I was feeling pretty comfortable with that and climbed accordingly. Soon I sat on top of this pinnacle, back in the sun and with glorious views over the sea and grandstand views of other nearby climbers also enjoying routes on the Penon. Kate was less impressed by this pitch, commenting that it felt very precarious and loose. I suspect she was right there! 
Pitch 6: The second crux pitch and probably the hardest (we were feeling tired). The steep slab above us looked quite tough and protection seemed sparse. Thankfully the protection turned out to be pretty good, with in-situ pegs appearing and excellent threads, before reaching the newer bolts. I made the mistake of climbing into the small cave (there's gear in it), this should be avoided, the route stays right of here. Exiting the cave felt extremely difficult and I could see a fall on the cards. With some delicate moves I escaped and regained the route leading up to a massive cave and the next stance, phew! Kate too found it hard to stay out of the small cave on this pitch.
Pitch 7: An unusual one here, it's an abseil. And no ordinary abseil, but a diagonal abseil! The next stance is about 8m down and 6m across, so not a slight swing, but a very big swing!!
Here's how we set up the abseil and what i'd recommend (this is assuming you are using 2 ropes). Use 1 rope to set up the abseil in the normal way, by threading the rings, tie a knot in the end if preferred. Both climbers remain tied to the other rope. Whilst the 1st climber abseils they should also be belayed from above, then when reaching the ledge it's easier and safer to let go of the abseil rope and climb across to the stance. Once at the stance, build a belay, clip in and put the 2nd person on belay with the spare rope. 2nd climber abseils whilst also being kept on belay from below. Upon reaching the ledge system they can let go of the abseil rope and be belayed across whilst scrambling, to reach the anchors. Simple.
Pitch 8: An easy, but exposed traverse lead back into the groove system, which is followed with plenty of interest to reach the next stance about 40m above.
Pitch 9: Feeling pretty knackered by now. The groove above looked dauntingly steep, with a significant overhang at its top. I was feeling fine about it though, and relished the challenge that lay ahead. The groove gave fun, powerful climbing with decent protection, but by the time i'd reached the overhanging section I was out of steam. I threw a sling over a shallow spike, it was the best I could find, but wasn't actually very good at all, and I knew it. I had to rest before pulling through this final steep section, my arms were screaming. Luckily I was able to lean against the wall behind me and bridge quite comfortably for a few moments whilst my arms calmed down. Still not happy about the steep moves above with only a poor sling for protection, I looked around for more options, ah, there's a bolt. Far out on the left wall I was able to clip this haven of safety before ploughing through the bulging rock above. The moves felt improbable and a fall inevitable, mostly due to being exhausted, but everything gelled together perfectly, the climbing flowed and all too soon I was clipping into the final belay stance, we'd done it. Kate cruised up the final pitch and soon we sat on the summit, joined by many Seagulls and cats in search of lunch!

So is it a 3 star classic? Yes it most certainly is, all the characteristics are there.
Would I do it again? Yes absolutely, it's an outstanding route.
It feels a little under graded at HVS and definitely more than a grade up on the likes of Via Valencianos and Via Pany. Maybe more towards E1 territory.

If you have an adventure hat, don't mind a bit of loose rock, love massive exposure, and magnificent positions high above the sea, then go do it.

​

It's been a while since we climbed on the Penon and high time we went back to explore more of it's fantastic climbing.
I'd been wanting to climb on the North face and had the route of 'Via Pany' in mind, Kim was game for it too, so off we went.

Via Pany: Very Severe - 215m - 7 pitches 
Even on a Saturday the crag was empty, of climbers at least, there were plenty of Gulls! The approach walk is easy and the start obvious due to a large clearing below the chimney pitch. We briefly discussed who would be leading, it turned out i'd be leading the whole route, bonus!

I set off up the chimney with a full trad rack weighing me down. This felt a bit odd after so much sport climbing and going lightweight. So my initial moves were on the slow side. Also I spent a little longer than usual placing gear, again, it's been a while. The final moves of pitch 1 were over a bulge, this proved quite tough, but well protected. By the time I reached the bolted belay station I was already feeling completely at home back on a trad route, it felt amazing.

Pitch 2 was an easy scramble with some bush bashing thrown in to keep it interesting. So far the climbing is straightforward and the scenery is becoming increasingly impressive.

Pitch 3 was apparently another easy pitch of grade 3 climbing. It felt much harder than this, with a very tricky move to exit a short chimney.

Pitch 4 looked a bit more daunting, a steep chimney! This pitch turned out to be wonderful climbing on superb rock with good protection easily arranged the whole way.

Pitch 5 was another easy pitch, maybe grade 3 with a few moves of 4+. The views and overall atmosphere compensated for the lack of difficult climbing.

Pitch 6 seemed like it was going to offer a bit more technicality and it did. Top quality climbing up a fine slab before meeting a crack system and following this with interest all the way to the next belay. An excellent pitch with as much natural protection as wanted.

Pitch 7 the final pitch, taking us up to the summit of El Penon de Ifach. A hard move off the belay ledge soon led to easy climbing and scrambling up a groove and on to the summit. A group of English and Irish students were doing summit selfies as I arrived.

Rock fax award this route 2 stars in their 2013 Costa Blanca guide. I'd agree with that. The climbing is good quality, if it was more continuous then 3 stars could be awarded.

Descent from the summit is straightforward, following a well maintained footpath all the way back into Calpe. Coffee and cake at a seafront cafe seemed an appropriate finish to a grand day out.

If you’re looking for an action packed holiday or short break here in Spain, give us a call / email and let’s make it happen. Rock climbing, mountain walking, scrambling, canyoning, and via ferrata.

​Mark

As is so often the case, a title gives some indication for what is to follow. So here it seems there’ll be some running and rock climbing going on, yes you’d be right, and so much more besides……
 
These last few days we’ve been working alongside Anna Paxton of Outdoorista. Raising the profile of adventurous females in the great outdoors. And what a fun, adventurous time we’ve all had.
 
During Saturday, Anna, Anna, and Bo arrived from a cold and damp Northern England to warm sunshine in the Costa Blanca. We had a full and varied itinerary for their stay and this incorporated: Trail running; Rock climbing; Mountain walking; Ridge scrambling; and Multi-pitch Sea cliff climbing. All of this in the space of 4 action packed days!
 
Sunday 29th Jan: Kate led a trail run for Anna & Bo. They circumnavigated the Bernia ridge, using the Forat (tunnel) to pass from north to south. I walked with Anna & Kim to the Bernia fort for some dramatic views down to the coast and inland to the bigger, and currently snow capped mountains. This filled the morning, but there was plenty of energy left for an afternoon of rock climbing at our local crag, L’Ocaive. This excellent crag is best enjoyed during sunny afternoons when it catches the sun and much of the crag glows a deep orange, beckoning us to climb. There are a mix of single and multi-pitch routes from grade 4 – 8c, so something for everyone. This is also one of the quieter crags in the area, so almost always a peaceful place to climb.
 
Monday 30th Jan: This morning Anna, Bo, and Kate enjoyed a trail run from our house in Llosa de Camacho over the hills to Font d’Axia. This was in the region of 10km and involved lots of ascent! Me, Anna, Kim, and Tricia drove over to the crag with all the climbing kit. The afternoon was spent enjoying the fine limestone rock of Font d’Axia, lapping up the sun, relaxing, and cranking out some tough and steep climbs.
 
Tuesday 31st Jan: A big day for all of us. Anna & Kim traversed the whole of the Toix ridge. This fine and narrow ridge near Calpe has 100’s of metres of rock climbing and top quality scrambling, with great views over the sea to El Penon de Ifach. It’s one of our favourites.
The rest of us went on a sea cliff adventure near the seaside resort of Moraira. Costa Blanca is blessed with some amazing sea cliffs, miles and miles of them. A few have been developed for rock climbing, and today we visited one of the finest the area has to offer.
Sonjannika is a 6 pitch route with about 180m of climbing in an absolutely stunning setting high above the sea. Each pitch is interesting and engaging, with exposure building all the time. We decided to add a little more to the adventure by finishing up a harder pitch of climbing, 35m of sustained 6a, what a magnificent way to top out on a route.
 
Wednesday 1st Feb: Another big day lies ahead. A traverse of the knife edge Bernia ridge. Anyone who has driven along the coastline between Calpe and Denia will have seen this dramatic ridge rising from the valleys far below. Serrated for much of its length and at an altitude of around 1000m this is an absolute stunner. Visiting rock climbers occasionally take an interest, but the ridge is usually empty. Also joining us today is Ann and Tricia, so 8 in total.
We start from the north side and only a short drive from our base in Llosa de Camacho. The approach walk is mostly in the shade, this is welcome to all. We gear up at the forat (big hole in the ridge) and from here onwards the terrain is technical and serious, so 100% focus required at all times!
Once on the ridge we enjoy stunning views along the entire crest and can look back towards the sea, it really is sublime. Movement along the crest is efficient and swift, with everyone clearly very quickly getting used to being in such a lofty place.
Along the route we have 2 abseils and a pitched section of rock climbing to compliment the 1000’s of metres of excellent scrambling. With the sun out and the sky blue, this is a pretty special day with lots of smiling going on.
We descend via the final col, taking a massive scree run to help preserve our knees! Before we know it we’re sitting in the sun on the terrace back at Llosa de Camacho, feeling satisfyingly tired after such a brilliant day out.
 
 
 
Thanks to: Kim, Anna, Bo, Anna, Tricia, and Ann for being a part of this adventure.
 
Remember to check out Outdoorista here to keep up to date with Anna's adventures.
 
If you’re looking for an action packed holiday or short break here in Spain, give us a call / email and let’s make it happen. Rock climbing, mountain walking, scrambling, canyoning, and via ferrata.
 
Thanks
 
Mark & Kate