The climate here on the Costa Blanca is about as good as it gets. Warm sunny days, low rainfall, and sheltered from harsh  westerly winds. And of late the weather has been behaving particularly well with near perfect conditions every day, split or what!

We've been making the most of these great conditions and have enjoyed a few big adventures.

Segaria ridge:
A few weeks ago I completed a traverse of the western section of this fine ridge: ​www.mountain-journeys.co.uk/blog/segaria-ridge-traverse-part-2  --  and now was time to finish it off by climbing the eastern section in full.
A short walk under the steep eastern face leads to rough ground and the initial traverse pitch. This is easy, but exposed and it's nice to have a rope on. Once in the notch it's a case of follow the wide ridge until an abseil station is reached (20m). More easy climbing leads out of this deep notch along more of the ridge to reach another significant notch. Here it's necessary to climb leftwards along a platform (not to the right as described by Rockfax) below very steep ground, as this eases (about 10m) follow a ledge system back right towards a fixed rope and belay above. From here easy scrambling leads to the summit cross.
Soon after this is a very narrow section of ridge, this is really exciting. Once beyond this the ridge widens considerably and easy scrambling and walking remain to reach the wide col. We turned left (south) here and headed back to the car.

Puig Campana:
The plan was to repeat Epsilon Central (HS) on this massive crag. However, even though we started out early, there were already 3 teams on the route, and 2 more teams arrived shortly after us!! Plan b, a slightly easier route called 'El Moro' (Severe). This is about 350 - 400m and contains a fair bit of scrambling too. We had the route to ourselves which is always nice. We didn't have the base of the route to ourselves though! Goats, a whole;e herd of them, came to see us. They particularly liked our climbing kit. It was a privilege to be so close to these animals and for them to clearly not be afraid of us. A beautiful start to the climbing.
About 10 pitches later we arrived at the top of the route, briefly considered a summit dash too, but thought better of it as our water supply was by now very low. The descent into the huge gully was easier than I remembered it, thankfully.

Toix Este - Horst:
This is a favourite of ours and a route we've done many times with many people, it's always a pleasure. Starting high above the sea and with views across to the Penon, it's a wonderful setting. The 1st pitch of climbing is the most difficult, but the rest of the route (4 more pitches) are still very worthwhile and on super sharp rock that's nice and solid. The route terminates at what looks like a small quarry. Walk left here (looking in) to gain the continuation ridge above, this leads up to the Mirador at about grade 1.
From the Mirador it's easy to finish off and head to town for a beer. Or, why not walk to Toix Oeste and climb Cilber up to the Toix ridge and finish with a full traverse of this, again finishing back at the Mirador. Then you've really earned that beer!
On this occasion we cut it short and called it a day after the Toix Este route.

Via Ferrata - Ponoch:
A regular trip for me, a re-visit after 4 years for Kate, and a first time for Leanne. Much fun was had by all on this metalled, vertical playground.
Cloud rolled in and shrouded us, but later cleared to show the full scale of Ponoch. Note to self - must get more routes ticked on this mountain.

Magical Mystery Tour, Toix sea cliffs:
A magical expedition to a dramatic sea cliff. The 40m free-hanging abseil sets the tone for this serious adventure. Whilst the initial climbing is easy (about grade 2), this soon changes and the challenges come thick and fast.
As with all the very best routes, the hardest pitch is saved until the end, with 40m of grade 5 and only about 6 bolts protecting the whole pitch, keeps things interesting that's for sure. A simply brilliant route.

Thanks to: Kate, Leanne, Joe, Ann, Kim, and Susie for joining in these adventures.

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Earlier this week we made a couple of visits to Cabezon de Oro. During these visits we climbed two long routes to give a total of around 15 pitches of climbing.

Arista Agullo HS / 4:
This one isn't in the Rockfax guidebook, but we had obtained a small amount of information about it online, this amounted to little more than where it started and how difficult it would be! So with about 200m of climbing and 100m of scrambling, route finding was going to be the main challenge without a description.

From the main parking area (as per Rockfax description) follow the track for 300m until a crest is reached and the surface is concreted. There's a cairn here, turn right to follow the right bank of a river bed, eventually switching to the left bank, and follow this up to the base of the wall, keeping right of Sector Deportivo. Route: It's possible to avoid the initial scrambling pitches of around 100m by walking around to the right and following tracks below the rib. However, if you wish to prolong the fun, start about 25m left of the base of the arete, where the vegetation is cleared. A short blank wall leads up to the rib, this is about 4b for a couple of moves, but once the rib is gained it's all scrambling at about grade 2. Follow the rib for about 100m and belay below a steepening. Above lies 4 pitches (3, 3, 4, 4) all between 40 & 50m in length and all contain plenty of loose rock, beware! This is a trad route, cams and slings are especially helpful. We came across one bolted belay, and one piece of fixed gear around a Pine tree (belay), and that's it. Keep to the rib the whole way (there are one or two old pegs), and when nearing the top keep well left of the large flake and climb just left of a prominent groove (one piece of fixed gear on this pitch). Route length: 180m Grade: HS 4a

​Descent: Whilst it's possible to descend via a gully and scree slope from the top of Pena de Alicante, i'd recommend keeping to the well marked 'PR' track leading down to the Caves. This is longer but very easy and only about 45 - 60 minutes back to the car. A very worthwhile route and definitely not a 'Costa clip up'! Enjoy

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Via Gene VS / 4+:
We did have a description for this one and whilst it is vague, it definitely makes a big difference. Thank you Rockfax.
The base of the route is easy to find too as the name 'Gene' is etched onto the rock. The first pitch is quite vegetated in places, but still contains some excellent climbing and some of the hardest moves of the climb are towards the top of this pitch. There's a tree belay.
Pitch 2: is a straightforward rising traverse up to a bolted belay next to some old pegs. Yes we used the bolts and recommend anyone climbing this do likewise.
Pitch 3: goes rightwards into a groove just above, then right again to reach a vertical groove with a bush at it's base. This section gives beautiful climbing up to a double bolt belay at the base of some slabs.
Pitch 4: trends rightwards up the slabs to reach a massive ledge, continue rightwards on this to reach the base of a long ridge. This makes a great lunch spot.
Pitch 5: Just left of the lowest point gain the ridge (some fixed gear) and follow it all the way to its top and belay in a corner (bolts).
Pitch 6: Trend leftwards, crossing the weird black (burnt looking) rock, climb through one groove to reach another and follow this until it's possible to exit on the left at a peg / bolt belay. An excellent pitch.
Pitch 7: Follow the ridge, clipping the various ancient pegs along the way until the ground eases about 10m below the crest. There is a single peg belay here, or better, use the large pine tree to the right (looking up) immediately at the top of the steep section. This felt like the crux pitch as it was sustained and we were a little tired! Still, a brilliant pitch.
Pitch 8: follows the crest rightwards to the first big notch. Here there are bolted abseil stations on either side, take your pick.

Descent: we choose the shorter abseil into the gully at the back of the mountain. This can be done in 2 stages using 2 half 50's. Upon reaching the steep scree filled gully, get on your trainers and revel in the amazing scree run descent back to the base, loads of fun and rapid.

Thanks to Kim & Ann for joining me on these adventures.

If you'd like a guide for these or other climbs, canyons, walks in the area, please get in touch anytime, we'd be very happy to help. 

A couple of years ago we walked passed some interesting looking canyons whilst in the area of Barranco del Infierno. Whilst the 'Infierno' is without doubt the finest canyon descent in the area, there's many more well worth exploring, so today we went for an adventure into some lesser known canyons.

Starting and finishing in the sleepy mountain village of Benimaurell, we first went for Barranco Del Llidoners.

Barranco del Llidoners:
Descent = 225m
5 x abseils
Max abseil length = 50m (14m; 47m; 50; 14m; 11m)

Barranco del Racons:
Descent = 170m
1 abseil with a maximum length of 12m

There is an information board near the start of the canyon and this has all the information required regarding equipment required and what you will find en-route.
So what did we find?
Abseil 1 was fairly short but didn't look it, that's because it terminates at a hanging stance 14m diagonally to the left (looking in) of the anchors. I'd recommend having a maximum of 2 people on this stance at any one time, more people would be very awkward.
From here, a long (47m) abseil which is mostly free hanging descends into a beautiful cirque, this is a magnificent place, savour it a while before continuing.
A little bush whacking brings you to a good path - the PR-147 and here it's possible to finish the canyoning and follow the track back up to the road. But why do that?
Instead, follow the path left for only about 20m then descend back into the canyon, which by now is a shallow ravine. More bush whacking initially then more open and pleasant scenery lead to 2 further abseils.

The Barranco del Llidoners terminates at it's confluence with the Barranco del Racons. Turn right into this and follow this beautiful dry stream bed with wonderful sculpted rock features as it flows towards your next and final abseil of the day.
A 12m abseil through a narrow slot is fun and leads into more beautiful scenery and the confluence with the Barranco del Infierno. Turn right at this junction and follow the wide river bed gently downstream for about 30 minutes until a large cairn is reached and a good path can be located to the right. Take this path uphill and through the Forat to reach the small road near Fleix. Turn right onto this for the return to Benimaurell.

As a guideline, allow at least 5 hours for a combined descent of these canyons.

Essential equipment:
2 x 50m ropes
Helmet
Belay device & prussik


If you'd like a guide for these and many other canyons, ridges, climbs, and walks in the area, please get in touch anytime, we'd be very happy to help.

Mark

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For a week Helen, Ian, and Rowan have been here with us on the Costa Blanca enjoying warm sunshine, warm seas, hot rock climbing, and so much more. Yesterday morning they left early to return to the UK. Hope you all had a great time and to see you again soon.

Day one was an afternoon climbing season at the local Toix crags, just to get a feel for Spanish Limestone and what it has to offer. The weather was typically warm and sunny.

Day two we split into 2 halves. A morning on Ponoch completing a long Via Ferrata on this amazing mountain. This is a great way to experience a huge rock face without the need for advanced climbing abilities, so suitable for a wide range of people. There are 2 abseils to get back down again (and lots of scrambling) and this helps keep this as a half day activity.
After lunch we headed to the nearby Echo Valley crags for more single pitch Limestone heaven. Helen led 4 routes back to back and was clearly feeling in tune with the rock.

For day three we headed out as a group of 5 (Helen, Ian, Rowan, Kate, and me), ok, 6 including Don, and went to the hidden beach of Cala Testos. To access this beach involves scrambling down a canyon for about 45 minutes. Some sections are tricky and have fixed ropes in place, but wow this place is well worth visiting.
Helen & Kate enjoyed a dip in the sea, Ian was a bit more hardcore and swam around 2km and all the way to a completely different beach. Rowan checked out the bouldering and Don relaxed in the sun. All in all a rather pleasant morning.
Oh, and Don got to experience his first abseil, not sure it's his thing!
We finished the day with a short climb on the nearby crag of Morro Falqui. A very unconventional route called 'Coming out' which climbs into a cave with the climber then emerging through a hole in the Limestone pavement, an absolutely awesome route.

Day four being new years day we had another beach based day. This time for some bouldering at the Les Rotes venue near Denia. The super rough Sandstone on the beach is really great for building technique and strength. The beach is sandy here too and most landings are good.
After lunch me & Helen climbed a multi-pitch route at Toix, whilst the others had a chilled time back at the villa.

Day five saw us heading to the depths of a canyon. Barranco de Paret on the Sierra de Bernia has loads of abseils, the longest being 40m, great scrambling and views to match. This kept us busy until early afternoon. A really nice thing about many canyons here is their ease of access, making them doable during just a morning or afternoon.
We then spent the afternoon back at the Echo Valley crags for a handful more routes, with Rowan leading most things at Echo 1.5

Day six and we're back at Toix for more single pitch cragging in the sunshine. Helen climbed 8 routes up to 6a and Rowan led 5 routes making for a busy day for both. Quite a few others were at the crag making the most of the great weather again today.

Day seven took us to the beautiful Jalon valley and Murla crag. Final activity day and a day of pushing the limits a little more. Helen climbing 8 routes yet again, including 2 leads, and Rowan leading 6 routes including 4 x 6a's - nice one.
The Jalon valley is still a favourite of mine, and sitting at this crag looking out over the valley it's so easy to see why, a stunning place.
Homeward bound tomorrow, we hope to see you all again before too long.

Mark & Kate

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Having time quite a bit of time and bush whacking to find, i'm really pleased we have finally completed a descent of the Barranco del Llosar. It has been well worth the effort.

Approach: Take the CV-755 through Altea la Vella and continue until the turning for Sierra de Bernia recreation area (signposted), turn right here onto a narrow lane and follow this for about 2km to a small lay-by shortly after a track on the right (the return route).
From here, continue on foot up the tarmac road for about 2km (or 30 mins) and look out for a dirt track on the right, take this as it gently descends and soon reaches a ruin below a small outcrop of rock. A cairn marks the route downhill on a minor path, this soon deteriorates  (wear long trousers) but do persevere and you will soon reach a shallow barranco, follow a vague track along this to reach the first short abseil from a Pine tree.

Descent: There are around 12 abseils in total, although some of these are short and over easy ground, so you may consider down-climbing some. The longest abseil is 30m, and all are from either bolts (some twin bolts, some single) or chains fixed around large Pine trees.
There is a lot of scrambling during the descent, some is pretty tricky too, and plenty of vegetation to work through. Well worth wearing long trousers and long sleeves and making a noise to alert whatever animals are living there that you're there too!
Even after a prolonged dry spell there will likely be water in some of the pools, but this should be avoidable with care. Just remember to look where you're throwing abseil ropes so they don't end up soaked!

The way out: After passing a huge boulder, bear to the right, keeping right of more large boulders. Scramble up onto a feint path marked by a cairn and follow this to a good, wide track. Follow this easily back to the road. 

Time (car to car): Allow around 3 hours 45 minutes
45 min approach
2h 45 min descent
15 mins return walk

Equipment: The abseil stations are all bolted (Jan 2016). Harness; helmet; 60m rope; abseil device; prussik. We use 2 x 40m ropes which was more than adequate.

Dangers: Helmet advised due to rock fall potential. Also, check the weather history as flooded pools would prove difficult to exit!

Back in October, Buff UK got in touch with us asking if we'd like to use and review some of their products.

As we both like and already use Buff wear, we jumped at the offer and quickly scanned through the website to choose.

Firstly, as it's been a while since I had bought a Buff (they last a long time), I was quite taken aback by the shear choice on offer now.

Neither of us had tried the Merino wool fabric on a Buff, so we both went for that. We both also decided to wait until our winter visit to Spain to start using them. I've found with other merino wool products they work very well in both cold and heat, so was interested to see how these faired in the warm climate of Costa Blanca.

Our first week in the country the weather was very warm and we were out walking in the mountains every day. Ideal Buff testing terrain.

When the going gets really hot, they worked best worn as a headband, keeping sweat from our eyes. As a quick and easy storage place when not in immediate use, they can be worn on the wrist. And when a chilly breeze came along (every now and then), we wore them as neck scarves.
I found myself making mine into a hat a few times, helping to keep the hot sun from my head.

Although they've now been worn a fair bit, both still thankfully look brand new.

We recently received another Buff from some friends. Not actually for us though, but for our dog, Don. I had no idea these were available (and neither did Don). Definitely a pretty cool accessory for the fashion conscious canine. He's worn it a few times and seems to get on with it :-)

Aside from my fancy new merino wool Buff, I always carry two other Buffs with me when out in the hills. These are part of my emergency system and here's why:
Buff 1: Is wrapped around my 1st aid bag and can double as an extra bandage that's very quick and easy to apply
Buff 2: This one is wrapped around a small head torch and serves to protect it from knocks. This one also of course can double as a bandage. And yes, both are kept clean.
Other items could be used instead, but having tried a few, personally I find the Buff works better as they are so much more versatile and super lightweight.
Check them and many more out here: http://www.kitshack.com/buff-adult-headwear/wool-buff

Photos from top to bottom:
Walking in the Jalon valley, Spain
Approach walk to a Via Ferrata near Gandia, Costa Blanca
Buff takes a rest on my bag, Sierra de Bernia, Costa Blanca

We'll write another Buff instalment in a few weeks time.

​Mark

It is about a year since our last visit to Segaria, here's what happened on that day: http://www.mountain-journeys.co.uk/blog/category/segaria-ridge

So a few days ago I decided it was time to return. Not to try a complete traverse, as I would be scrambling solo, but to complete the rest of the ridge and the longest section.

Starting quite late, I raced up to the col above the recreation area, even Kate was find the pace a bit quick! But there was a mission to get on with and speed would be key.
From the col Kate & Don descended tracks to the North side to complete a walking circuit which would meet up with my route later. I began the scramble to the main summit of Segaria. Easy but prickly.

The ridge soon became more exciting, but the main joy came from the amazing view along the ridge line, absolutely spectacular.
I was expecting some abseils so had a 50m rope and some climbing hardware with me, carrying all this made me so much more wary on the exposed sections as my bag was heavy and occasionally put me of balance!
Reaching the first abseil, which led to a massive gash in the ridge, I decided to down climb instead as it was quicker and straightforward.

Once in the big notch I eyed up my route back out, and on initial inspection this looked scary! The exposure would be huge and with plenty of loose rock around this was definitely something to take with extreme caution. The climb was far easier than it looked and the rock mostly very good, and soon I was on a knife edge ridge enjoying big exposure and scrambling at its very best. Route finding was nice and easy, but there was still always the element of what's around the next corner, and I would later find this taxed me a lot mentally.

I began to descend this narrow ridge and it briefly widened, so much so it was possible to jog a few sections. I could see Kate & Don sitting in the sun watching my progress. I was nearing the end of the ridge and was pretty pleased as my brain was ready for a rest! I soon found fixed anchors in the rock, but these proved useless for an abseil. So I continued to search and found a number of other pieces of fixed gear, none of which were suitable.
I descended a little more, passing a pinnacle and down to a tree, here I found the double bolt anchor that would take me to the ground safely.
This abseil was less than 25m (I had a 50m rope) and led to a grassy area and path next to a north facing crag. After a brief rest, we enjoyed a lovely walk out along the southern flanks of Segaria.

This section had taken around 4h 30m car to car for a solo traverse.

Next is to link it all together, that'll be quite a day!