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Magical Mystery Tour, Calpe

26/12/2016

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Sunset-over-Benidorm-from-Toix
Sunset over Benidorm
Recently i've been thinking more and more about why I go rock climbing. Why venture onto precipitous cliffs, enter into  potentially dangerous situations, and climb big (or small) lumps of rock.
We'll no doubt all have slightly different answers to this. Of late i've spent time observing others more closely to understand their climbing needs.
I've found my answer, why do I climb. Yes, it's partly for the movement over rock, the satisfaction of climbing a route and reaching the top.
But there are overhelming factors to a fantastic day out on the rock:
1) The people we are with
2) The places we explore

Grades are simply unimportant, and it's repeated plenty times that the best climber is the one having the most fun. This is so true.  
​
Todays route was on the Toix sea cliffs near Calpe. Magical Mystery Tour is a 5 pitch route with a max grade of 5. So the climbing is never particularly tricky, but there's so much more to this place than the climbing and I was reminded of that today. Sharing amazing experiences and places is what it's about, thank you Miguel & Mila for joining me on this today and sharing your enthusiasm for wild places.

Mark

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Loving the adventure
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Miguel leading pitch 4
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Double bill of Via Ferrata, Costa Blanca

26/12/2016

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Almost at the top of El Cid
Now that the storm has passed, it's time to get back on track and enjoy some amazing activities here on the Costa Blanca.

For a nice big day we decided on 2 via ferratas, both a little south of our base here in Llosa de Camacho, so makes sense to link them into the same day.

First up is the Penya del Figuerta near Relleu. This has been recently installed, so all shiny and new. The route is short enough to be done in a couple of hours round trip, so handy if short on time but still looking for an impressive itinerary. The terrain is steep for most of the way, with the steepness terminating on a narrow ridge which is then traversed to reach the abseil station. Stunning views of the Puig Campana, Ponoch, Xanchet, Castellets, and more all add to make this a really great trip.

A quick lunch break was followed by a drive south to Petrer and the mountain of El Cid. Here is a big Via ferrata, currently the longest in the area. Winding its way up the steep north face of the mountain, this trip has plenty to interest climbers too as thought has been given to set the staples far apart for much of the journey, thus meaning the rock must be used to gain height. The route weaves an intricate line up the crag and goes all the way to the summit of El Cid. Yes it was chilly up there, but wow the view is well worth the effort.

Thanks to Kim, Edd, Jules, Lynn, and Sam

​Mark
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Exposed terrain on the El Cid via ferrata
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Team on the summit of El Cid
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Walking in the hills is good for you. Make hiking a new year resolution!

23/12/2016

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2016 is almost over and many people will be preparing for their 2017 health drive. Unfortunately, this motivation will likely wane as the gym becomes tedious or life gets in the way.
 
We propose a new resolution for 2017 that will not only help with your fitness goals but also ensure that every exercise is unique. For 2017 we recommend that you start hiking.
 
Hiking is a great way to burn calories with Fit Day reporting that it is possible to burn up to 500 calories an hour if you walk at 4.5 miles per hour, and 250 calories at 2.5 miles an hour. Fit Day also states that hiking forces you to exercise, as you can’t just stop, you have to walk back to the beginning or end point. It is also helps with motivation as unlike a gym there will be no feeling of inadequacy or waiting for machines to become free.
 
It doesn’t matter if you are experienced or a novice, army fit or looking to lose weight, hiking can be done by anyone at anytime.  No matter when you hike every experience will be different. Trekking in the Lake District during the winter is very different to scrambling up gorges in the summer. Hiking is a great way to tailor a workout to your own needs compared to other sports. For example, in Stephen Tudor’s article on footballer’s fitness levels for esteemed Champions League site Betfair, the journalist states that a footballer will “individually achieve 120 intense actions or sprints…[and] their heart rate will consistently reach 170 bpm.” This is great if you’ve been exercising for years but not ideal for those looking to gently get back into sport. So, this is where endeavours like hiking come into play.
 
Compared to a year long gym membership hiking is also a lot better on the bank balance. If you are new to hiking then Now Loss recommends investing in a good pair of boots. Compared to a year long gym membership a good pair of boots will last you many years. Now Loss also believes that to get the best results it is best to hike several times a week. This doesn’t have to be a 20-mile trek and could instead be a 40 min walk up the hill near your home.
 
If you are looking to become adventurous then Loud Line Apparel made a list of six outdoor resolutions. One of the joys of hiking is being adventurous, exploring new places, and taking yourself outside of your comfort zone. At the top of the list they put planning a long distance trip. Unlike most other forms of exercise or sports you can turn hiking into a healthy vacation. There are many different challenges both in the UK and across the globe. Mountain Journeys suggests attempting the Yorkshire 3 Peaks Challenge, which is 23 miles long and physically demanding. If you head to Europe explore the trails around Mount Blanc or if you happen to be in America hike along the Grand Canyon. The world is your limit.
 
Hopefully this has inspired you to try something different in the New Year in order to achieve your fitness goals. Hiking is one of the best ways to lose weight and see the some of the best environments in the world.


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Segaria ridge traverse, Costa Blanca

15/12/2016

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On one of the many narrow sections
After lots of days focusing on rock climbing, we decided a change was necessary, so a more mountainous day was planned. Close by is a long rocky ridge, it's spectacular to look at and even better to be on.
Having completed a full traverse (about 4 - 5km) recently and knowing how exhausting that is, we opted for a slightly more relaxed version and started at the half way point. Thankfully, this ridge can even be split into 3 sections, although 2 is fine. A very enjoyable way to spend a day.
The walk up is steep, but on a decent path all the way to the col. From here things become more arduous underfoot and full concentration is required the whole time. The scenery keeps on getting better, and soon we reach the summit, Edd does a balancing act on the trig point!

The ground soon becomes rockier and much narrower, with some easy climbing sections. This keeps everyone focused and absorbed, revelling in our surroundings. Narrow, rocky crest, tricky hand traverses, and soon we arrive at the final abseil station, about 22m takes us down onto a PR route near the old fort. From here it's all walking terrain with the setting sun and a beautiful mountain backdrop as our companion.

As a team of 7 we traversed this in 5 hours 30 minutes and it always felt quite leisurely. A lovely day in the mountains with good company, thanks all.

​Mark
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Edd making sure he summits!
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Great traverses on the Segaria
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Kate on the final abseil
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Kate & Kim on the walk out
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Magical Mystery Tour, Costa Blanca

8/12/2016

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Abseil-into-Magical-mystery-tour-Toix
Preparing to abseil into the route
Today four of us went to the coast in search of sunshine and warm rock to climb. We found both and had a brilliant time on the Candelabra del Sol sea cliffs below the popular Toix Oeste rock climbing area.

We climbed Rowlands Magical Mystery Tour 5+. This is a route I have done many times previously, whilst for Vicky, Edd, and George it was their first time on the crag. The abseil approach sets the tone, this is a serious and commiting venue with no easy escape, making it all the more fun and involving.

We whizzed along the scrambling pitches in no time at all, had a rest then got on with the climbing pitches. Thankfully these are all now bolted, so there's an added feeling of security on what actually looks like very friable rock (although it mostly feels very solid).
The climbing here is always a delight, with fine moves in dramatic situations, culminating in the final fabulous pitch leading back up to the path.

Vicky & Edd were always close behind, catching us up at every belay, so it was a nice social trip too. Enjoying lunch whilst admiring the wonderful view out over the sea from the top is a very special time. A fine route with good friends.
Thanks George, Vicky, and Edd.

Mark
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Vicky on the free-hanging abseil
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Edd leading the 2nd climbing pitch
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Vicky at the top of the route
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Costa Blanca via ferrata

7/12/2016

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High up on the Penya del Figuerta via ferrata
Today we headed south and the sunshine around the Sella area of Costa Blanca. A short way from the pretty village of Sella is the less well known Relleu, and towering above is the Penya del Figuerta.
Recently the local authority funded the installation of a Via Ferrata on the rocky side of the mountain. Well equiped and new, it's equally suitable for newcomers to the sport or seasoned mountain folk.
Fun traverse sections come complete with chains for the hands too, adding reassurance to those less used to rock climbing in exposed positions.
After a long steep section the via ferrata arrives at a narrow ridge, then follows this in a glorious position all the way to a conveniently situated abseil station.
A 60m rope is required as a minimum to reach the base of the abseil. Some of the descent is loose, so great care needed if people are below.

As a group of 4 we took around 2 hours 15 minutes for the whole trip, so fairly short, but a great workout and fine views over to the Puig Campana.

Thanks to Vicky, Edd, and Stef .

If you'd like a guide for these and many other canyons, ridges, climbs, and walks in the area, please get in touch anytime, we'd be very happy to help

Mark 

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Having fun on the via ferrata
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On the ridge of Penya Figuerta
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More 'hot rock' Costa Blanca climbing!

3/12/2016

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Seth looking focused whilst leading the brilliant 'Mono-Slabic' 6a at Alcalali crag
It's been crazy busy here over this last week, with loads of guests and all of them making the most of the massive amount of rock climbing available nearby. The Toix ridge and Bernia ridge have both been ticked, nice one Joe & Seth. We've enjoyed some coastal cragging at Morro Falqui, had a lovely evening in the historic old town of Altea, ticked a load more routes at the nearby Alcalali crag and visited a newly developed sector on the Gandia crags.

A starting point for any visiting climber is a guidebook and Rockfax produce a very good one for Costa Blanca. For reasons of space, it's not possible for the publishers to include all the crags, so lots of excellent crags are missing and of course all the newly developed crags are missing too (there's plenty of these and plenty more in the pipeline).  
We've visited a few of these crags and always had great times, rarely seeing another climber and always enjoying fabulous views and sharp rock.
Today the crag was part of the Gandia crags and has a range of grades from 5 - 6c, we climbed 7 routes from 5 - 6b+, everyone of them well worth doing, giving superb climbing on sharp, well bolted rock.
We have about half a dozen more newly developed crags to visit over the coming weeks, so watch this space for more info on what we find.

A quiet night here in Llosa de Camacho, all guests have gone home, but more arrive tomorrow and we have lots more adventures in store.

Thanks to Liz, Leanne, Joe, Seth, Rachel, George, Ann, Mike, Vicky, and Edd for an amazing week :-)

​Mark & Kate
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Vicky enjoying the sharp rock and fine routes at a recently developed crag
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